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BondoBobCustomSaddles

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Everything posted by BondoBobCustomSaddles

  1. Dwight, I have a pair that I made a long time ago. Every time I think there is something that I want to change I use that pair of chaps and make the I guess they look pretty funny cause they have patches and added material on them from changes, but; they are comfortable and make a good pattern for additional pairs that I have made for others. PM me your address and when I get time I will send you a paper cut pattern of them to try. Bob
  2. When I first started, I had about $600 tied up in materials and a couple of hundred in tools. every time I made something for someone, I just added a tool to the order sometimes it was $5 and sometimes it was a couple of hundred, and so on. Later I started buying the bigger stuff when I got paid for a saddle or set of chaps and so on. Now, I find I wouldn't even be able to guess how much I have invested, but; my experience is that you can never have too many tools, especially god ones. You can help stave off the cost some and get good used tools in good shape, by buying from Bruce Johnson. He will always be glad to give you some advice on what you need when looking for that special something to do that certain type of cut, stamp, etc. and his prices are good. Hope that helps! Bob
  3. Tparrish, first, the cross pattern will likely fatigue with time and tear at the ends of the cuts, so unless there is a specific need for that, I would stay away from it. As for the round in a pattern, your best bet will be to call some of the tanneries that supply the auto makers, you can look them up on the internet. They have a lot of scrap hides, since the need for blemish free hides for the auto companies seating, leads to some scrap. You might be able to buy some by the hide at a discount price. Hope that helps you. Bob
  4. I agree with both statements, Tandy blanks are not the best and given the price you are better off getting a full side and cutting your own belt blanks, you will be money ahead in the long run, also, you are right, never enough cannoli's. My mom used to make them when I was a kid growing up, and 60 years later my brothers still give me hell for eating most of them before they could get them!!!! ;^) Bob
  5. Don't eat so many cannoli's!!!! LOL Seriously when I make belts, (not too often these days) I use the cuts from the upper back and I also double, glue and stitch them. Bob
  6. Actually that is why I contacted Ann in the first place and she put me on to Bob Pleyton in Willsaw MT. He sent me some pages out of the book on that very subject, not just the cantle binding, but also the horn and the front of the fork cover. Bob
  7. Joanna, I asked somewhere on here, but; got missed somehow, so I am asking again. Bob
  8. I have been using my olfa rotary" pinking" cutter for years to cut the edge of padded seats. I sharpen it with a buffer and a little compound. leave it in the handle and buff the exposed edge both sides, then rotate till a new section is exposed and repeat till all is sharpened. It doesn't take much and like I said I have been using mine for years. Bob
  9. First off Kalley, let me say that I only use Fieblings pro oil dye. That said, it appears that the antique is heavier and set longer in some places than others. Not sure about eco flo, but; I would take some lacquer thinner on a rag, and give it a good going over, then let it dry. For what ever reason, there was some hand oil or other type of whatever that impeded the even saturation of the antique. Sometimes it can also be the moisture content in the leather that does it. That is why if it is my intention to have an even coat on something I dye, I use lacquer thinner to clean just before I dye. On the other hand if I want it to have a uneven old timey look I will often add some water in areas to get that effect like in the pic of this saddle. Bob
  10. Tom, I can't say without reservation, that this is a must book, however; it is my opinion ( like belly buttons we all have one!) that this is a nice addition to your library of information and will give you some good sound information to draw from in your quest for how things get done. Good Luck! Bob
  11. Welcome Tarvos. You will find a lot of interesting and talented folks here. They will be glad to share what they know. Bob
  12. Joanne, please add me to the adult section. I think I have grown up enough now! Bob
  13. Just got our DSL line back up and running, been off line for about 6 days. Wow, leatherworker withdrawal !!! Thanks again to all for looking. Joel, it never entered my mine that I should have tension because of that. Damn! another thing to worry about!! LOL Bob
  14. Ron, Curious, what make of tree are you using? Bob
  15. the book by Robin Yates is also a really good one. Covers a lot of material. I first saw reference to it in the information that Ann Stohlman sent me when I asked her about rolled rope edges a long time ago. Then I got some pages from it from Bob Pleyton on the same subject. Really clear and concise. If I were going to add to my library, that is where I would go. Bob
  16. Morning John, great stories, keep them coming, love to talk about the old days. Even though we grew up far apart, the experiences always seem to be the same, and it's always easy to see yourself right there. Have a good one. Bob
  17. Thanks again for the kind words. Paul you mentioned about the girl that I made the saddle for. Attached is a pic of the young lady and the horse that the saddle was built for. Can't wait to see them in a show this year, if it will ever warm up!
  18. Hey John Schnase, I see you are from Eugene. Been there a few times, I have a friend that lives there, whom I have not seen for quite some time. Just wonder if you might know him. His name is Bill Jones, he is a long time roper, and ropes most weekends out that way. Bob
  19. How cool is that? Having Great Grampa an Grampa's saddles and talking to the grandson of the guy that made them. That's way cool!!!! Bob
  20. Very Very nice! On my bucket list is learning to make boots. Not sure I will ever get there though. Again, very nice. Bob
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