SaddleBags

The best at the price IMHO is Old Cowdogs. Tell them I sent you.

I'm near Santa Barbara. How can I help?

Nice looking sheaths, but if I may ask, how do you expect to draw and replace them knives if the molding covers the tang? Is that a safety feature?

Call the Hide House in Napa

Roger on the single 9 oz. 6-7 if you're going to line it. Unless of course you want something handy to pull a truck out of the mud!!! Don't over do it or it will never be worn.

Well. I'm not Wyatt Earp, so I don't carry all the time, but I do many times when I'm way out in the weeds. I have never needed the breakaway feature, but the hammer loop works fine.

as for the hammer loop ... For my 357, I make the loop itself, and make the "tail" long so it runs through two TIGHT slots. Goes in one side and out the other. Then it hangs free on the outside of the holster between holster and leg. It slips off easily, but when you holster you weapon, you pull the tail down tight to perform in intended function.

So maybe you could use a standard leather knot. Cut a piece of whang leather, fold one end back over itself to make three or four thicknesses, and then make a hole through all thicknesses and pull the running end back through the hole to make the button. Then use a bag punch or bleed knife (craft knife will work) and make a slit at the length you want it, and push the button through. You might want to make an interim slit so that the button and loop are in a figure eight when finished. This is a nice looking way to attach straps that will not carry a heavy load. Let me know how it works out.

In the cowboy business, breakaway is a very important concept. That's why you see light thongs on the front of chaps and such instead of heavy belts. Maybe you could be a bit more specific if you want more definitive help. Several options are available and in common usage.

IMHO. usually the lining is thinner. but not necessarily "lower grade". Nothing wrong with your plan, as long as the result is what you want it to be.

Seems these are all the rage nowadays. Anybody have a pattern they'll share?

you are right, however, my English point tip punch is stamped with "151" as are all of my bag punches. in any case, it's made by Osborne, no matter how it's marked, and the dimensions are true.

Osborne 151 punch is right on 1".

which side of which pond? Might take awhile to ship it.

Made one for a guy two years ago -- tooled with holly leaves and berries. Made it of one piece of 11-12 oz and used a double tongue brass buckle. He came back last year to have it lengthened, then again this year to put more holes on the running ed. he doesn't use padding, so you can guess how much weight he's gained. In all modesty, it's a quality looking belt, but I suggest that you be generous in your use of leather to avoid having to do it over in upcoming seasons.

Wayne Jeuschke!!! GREAT mauls, not so expensive

Absolutely beautiful Taps!!! Where did you get your pattern? Make it?

I'm kinda like Yin. I can only tell you what I do. 1) I use Everclear to reduce. As for cleaning your hands. I never have that problem. Nitrile gloves are the easiest thing to use and throw away - with or without latex. 2) I don't spray but have heard that you should reduce (thin) to spray. 3) I oil everything prior to dyeing to give life to the leather. This I do regardless of what type or color I'm using. 4) I usually let it dry over night.

If I may suggest: If I were doing this, I'd leave the neatsfoot along for a bit and give everything a thorough cleaning ( I use liquid glycerine saddle soap, and I use enough to make you believe it's free), and remove everything that can be safely removed. Then I'd apply Skidmore's conditioner to begin the softening process, not expecting much in the way of visible results in a hurry. Some stitching will doubtless have to be replaced, and to do this, you need for the leather to be soft enough so that the needle doesn't granulate the leather. Clean out all the affected stitch holes. Let me know when you get to this stage.

I Like this a lot! I just finished a stock sleeve for my single-shot 20 ga, which I made so I could grab it and not have to sort through 12 ga and 20 ga shells. (Darn crows, anyway!) This looks WAY better, although I wouldn't use a sling on the shotgun, but I can see where it would come in handy on a combination piece such as you describe.

I guess some might calls these "repairs", but I'd call this a major re-build! Nice looking product. I di one about 15 years ago. The leather was so hard it took well over a year before I could get it in condition to accept a needle. Since then I've undertaken a few, but only those that have some intrinsic worth -- nothing without Makers Mark and/or provenance. Just too much work for an ornament - unless, of course, the payout is there, which it normally isn't. I just finished a side saddle that was built in about 1900 on the Goodnight pattern. The lady it was built for was from an old ranching family in California with a very rich history. What are your, Dwight?

I have a couple of Arabian trees, but no welsh ponies to try them on. If I find one, I'll try it.

Used to live in Caledonia. Nice looking work

Call Harlan down at Bowden Saddletrees in Doniphan, Texas. Website used to be saddletree.com.

Sounds to me like you're talking about a ranger type setup. Your best help can come from getting a pattern pack on making holsters (or even belts). But if you want to start work right now, then set it up so that the running end of the belt (that's the end without teh buckle) goes behind the buckle end and through a keeper, which it normally sewed or riveted to the body of the belt between the buckle-end overlay and around the main body of the belt. I found this post from a few years ago that might answer you question.