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Hey Randy, What are you looking for. I know how it is when your back is to the door. I don't have any for sale but I'll loan you what you need if I have it. Let me know.

Bree, They are great time savers - if they are adjusted properly. I would hate to continue to do this by hand. But for $600 they need to do the job. No one at Weaver can guide me (including Vernon). But in their defense it could be cutting the belt & the liner correctly. They have to be one "with each other". Sometimes my straps are not straight. They have a slight curve in the middle (I have to work on that one) & I have no reason why. So in the glueing processs, I try to force everything in line & as it dries it moves. No way can you get a nice rounded edge. If they are not married together & you do not sand them so they are - you will have a problem burnishing, regardless of the edging. It's just a matter of craftmenship. I try to put out 10 units per day & at my level, it's just not going to happen.

Try Roper's Supply in MS. $35.95 is the best price I've found.

Will a small amount of moisture in the basement hurt unfinished leather? Or should I store all hides up stairs? I normally keep hides in bulk for a couple of months.

Bree, It's not edging the liner (bottom strap) of the belt like I think it should. So now I'm playing with the thickness adjustment . There's nothing in the manual that covers the adjustment of that screw.

I have the "Weaver Edging Machine" & it seems to do the job. I just need to hone my burnishing technique. That's probably the weakest part of my leather work.

I have about 6 projects that I have started. I have glued these items and now ready to sew. But I have not gotten around to doing anything with them in alittle of 2 months. Can I anticipate any sewing machine problems down the road.

Looks pretty good to me. What did you use to Seal & final coat?

Art, Thanks for the link. I cannot imagine the skill it takes to stamp & make a saddle. Gifted craftsmen, no doubt.

Tom123; I have checked around several places and even called Ring in FL. Lobo, is correct you will pay retail from Ring & you can become a Dist for $750. Not really worth it. The cheapest place I have found is Roper Supplies @$34.95 (1-228-832-8889). I just rec'd 4 yesterday direct from Ring. They just dropped shipped for Roper. And again Lobo is correct when he says their service is far from good. But I got mine in 4 days which is better than usual. Good luck and give Windy a call.

Not sure where this should go, so if it needs to be moved please feel free to do so. For those of you who sell their leather works by whatever means - what do you do with your "irregulars" / IR's. Those items that may have a slight flaw. Those that you would not want to sell at full price. From time to time Tom or Gail (in the shop) - never me, might have a couple of extra cups of coffee in the morning & make a mistake on one of our custom holsters or belts. Nothing big but something that would be noticeable if really examined. Something that I would not want to put my makers mark on & send it out the door. In the past I have sold these items to one man who runs the flee market circuit for 1/2 retail. Really just to recoup some of the cost. This gentlemen has retired & I can't seem to find anyone who will lay out the money for the "off priced" goods. I currently have about 25 double layered belts & a few holsters that I have been setting on for a while. All very serviceable but with some type of small "screw up". Does anyone else have this problem? (I'm not trying to sell these items with this post - just looking for ideas).

K-Man, now you post "For Sale". Called Ring today to check on my order & order of 3 that you have listed will be in tomorrow @ a higher price, I might add. I would have jumped all over those puppies.

Lobo, This is very interesting. I too have played around with neatsfoot oil & was unhappy with the darkening effect. How did you get the quality of color (natural-tan) that you posted? I have tried the oil on tan dyed leather as well as undyed w/ bad results. I like the effect you have created. What is your process? Thanks so much for your input.

I do have a speed reducer & go ever so slow around the tip but still having problems driving. How far from the edge should I run my stitch groover? Right now I've got it set at 3/16". Should I try to get alittle closer to the edge? Also do most of you stitch groove the liner/back of the belt as well. I do....I feel it hides & protects the stitches from wear.

Kevin, It does pull the stitch down far enough. But without the groove @ the tip it will be eye-ball only. I will try your suggestions. How far is your stitch line from the edge. Mine is 3/16" - should I try to get closer to the edge?

Luke, I dropped the camera during an Easter party & have not got a new one yet. So no pic's - sorry. I am using a guide for the straight stuff but I cannot make the turn using the guide so I swivel it out of the way as I come into the turn & attempt to "free hand" it. And that's where I'm messing it up. As you come into the turn & out again those two areas, as you well know, should look the same. Mine do not... The stitches seem to be fine (just sent it back to Artisan for re-adjustment) & everything else looks good. Like I said before, the tip portion is killing me.

As you can tell by my many questions I'm new to leather work & find it fascinating. But it seems that with every new corner I turn I find a stumbling block. I try to work it out on my own & most of the time I can see the light at the end of the tunnel - just to realize the light at the end of the tunnel is a train coming my way. Now to the point: When machine sewing (Artisan 3000) double layer belts I am having a heck of a time staying in the groove line (so it looks decent) as I make the turn at the tip. I have gone through many sample tips & have ruined several belts trying to perfect the turn. I am stitch grooving the belt 3/16" from the edge & using a English Point Strap Punch for the tip. Both belt & liner is 1 1/2" & glued together. I took the "feed dog" off & using a slotted needle plate. Is there something I'm missing here or does it just take months/years of practice? Any & all suggestions would be welcome....

Pete, Will do & many thanks....

Pete, I buy Fiebing's Oil Pro by the Gal & I would want to mix the entire Gal. How much of the 8oz Bicks #4 do you feel it would take. I'm trying to get to a Saddle Tan color but even with Atom Wax & finish coat it all turns darker.

The biggest problem I find with neatsfoot oil is that it darkens the lighters leathers. I used some on a tan holster & ended up with a dark brown. Is there anyway around this.

Bree, where do you find this Frog Tape? Is it the same thing as Blue Tape at Home Depot for painters?

I can't use a .50 cent sharpie to edge my belts - I've got too much money tied up in rollers, wheels, felt, Q tips, sponges, ink, edge dyes - I could go on and on. Why do we (I) have to make this so darn difficult. Thanks for your help guys. Maybe one of these days I'll have a big sale & get rid of all of this STUFF that I really didn't need in the first place.

Lobo / Shorts: Thanks for the reply. I do cement well & then punch out the slots after sewing the holster. I agree that sewing the slots is a waste but several do reinforce so I was wondering. You all have a great week end. Stay safe....

Do most of you find it necessary to reinforce the belt slots on a pancake holster. I tried to sew a couple of belt slots last night and found it to be a major undertaking. Needless to say, that holster now has a home in the "ugly box."

Bob, I guess sealing the liner early is the key. I'll incorporate this into my process & see how it works out. Again, thanks for all the info.