Leescustomleather

This is a very minor thing, but I usually punch to adjustment holes for the buckle tang from the top down that way the edges of the holes point down instead of up. A beautiful belt just the same.

Perhaps you are right, I guess the real mystery is after showing every other process why they would omit that one?

All of the finished products they show are full of cigars or paraphernalia, I wonder if the cases are just stretched to fit the molds and when empty can be flattened out again. This makes more sense to me because that veg tan looked to be 2 / 3oz. and if hardened would have a tendency to be crushed if kept in a pocket empty, however I don't smoke cigars and have never had a cigar case, so these are just guesses

I think perhaps I didn't explain the process properly, What I tried to describe is the same as adding a liner except letting the glue dry completely instead of tacky where it will adhere instantly. When it is completely dry you can move it until you have it exactly where you want it then a little heat will reactivate the glue, I discovered this process accidently, but it works very well.

Apply barge cement or other contact cement to the already formed sheath and the snakeskin, let the cement dry at least a couple of hours until it feels totally dry. lay the snakeskin over the sheath use spring clips or tape to hold the snakeskin in place, when you are satisfied with your placement use a heat gun at a distance from your work to gently heat the surface, it will activate the contact cement and you will get a strong and permanent bond.

I have used steel from many sources, If I want a particular length or dimension I will usually just get it from a metal supplier online. Also local scrap yards are a great place to look , and a couple of my local hardware stores carry mild steel in various sizes and shapes. The major advantage of buying online is you get exactly what you want and for $20 or $30 you will have enough for a lifetime supply of tools

That depends on the stainless alloy, and if it is hardened. It works fine on mild steel and brass, I have tools I have made with brass that I have used many times over the last 6 years and look the same as the day I made them. I believe the only way I could damage the is to beat them all the way through the leather which would ruin my work or if I used a steel hammer to make the impressions the mallet end would mushroom over time. Bronze is soft when compared to stainless but remember the Romans conquered much of the world with bronze swords

I use a jewelers saw, it is very inexpensive and you can make very fine cuts with it

I found that the tool that worked best for me was serrated tin snips, the serrations hold the skin from slipping and the shears cut through it easily

Beautiful design and layout well executed, My understanding is that is a sheath, a scabbard has either wood or metal added to make it stiff, but very nice none the less

Thank you very much that is exactly what I needed, you have been a great help. I will post photos when I have something worth looking at.

I haven't made anything yet , still in the experimental phase

Yeah I'm sure the dog could care less but the people I am selling to want me to line some of the collars with sheep shearling for comfort. Thank you!!

Thanks for the reply, I have read this several times and still can't picture what you are trying to get across to me. Any chance I could get you to explian further or maybe even post a photo?

I want to join (glue then stitch) Chrome tan on the outside for looks and Veg tan on the inside for durability of a dog collar. How can I finish the edge and have it look good and last ?

You could try pushing the leather out away from you to finish the cut. It is common to have more control a little further from your body, Find the place in front of you where you are stable, have a good view of your work and then move the leather to accommodate you not the other way around. As far as getting good cuts in thin, soft leather I find a decent pair of shears works well.

I use a drill press in many instances where an arbor press would be used. Setting snaps and grommets (of course the motor is off) it is also good for mounting a sewing awl blade and it will push it through three layers of 8oz veg tan easily.

If you were to use mild steel instead of grade 8 , you could use a jewelers saw to cut lines or cross hatching. some of the finer blades have a 1/64th" kerf so you can do very detailed work. I just use brass rod and the tools I have made have lasted for years

Sorry my mistake

Your blade is in backwards, put the bevel facing out. With the bevel facing the fence you are trying to compress the leather against the fence, hence your problem

There's no accounting for taste, beautiful work!

Wasp spray does not work on humans, It works on exoskeletal insects by plugging the small holes called spiracles that they breathe through. But you could still be charged with assault and what excuse could you give for carrying a can of wasp spray? Just an urban legend, at least the Raid brand that was tested.

I have greatly improved my own leather work while working with Francine Etched Knives through her constructive criticism, and because that is what you asked for that is what I will offer. First off your stamping is well laid out and you use the camouflage tool to good effect, that being said some of the impressions are a little bit uneven in depth. The stitch line could be more well centered between the stamping and the edge. Especially on the back of the sheath. The retention snaps should be covered where they can contact the knife handle so it won't cause wear marks and the inside of the strap could use some tan-kote or some other type of finish or sealer. I hope you take this as intended, only to help not hurt . Compliments are nice but my work never got better from them.

I have been doing leather carving for many years and have studied countless examples of other artists work and yours is the best I have ever seen. The precision , composition and attention to detail are amazing. Thank you for sharing.

Yes I do , it is an aerosol product called Master Quick Shine, it stays flexible and makes the leather glossy. It is a combo of waxes and requires no buffing. I have been using it on knife sheaths for a couple of years now and am happy with the results.