Brokenolmarine

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when I place my first order. Most of my leather work follows the same pattern... Holsters, belts, sheaths...

I have done a lot of research on the various techniques for dying, staining, painting, and the treatments such as antiquing and finishes over the last five years. I have blown some nice work with poor finishes in the beginning... But learned valuable lessons from it. You just keep moving forward... and practice and more practice. Before I apply a finish these days, especially on a larger project with a lot of time invested, I use an off cut of the leather I use on a project to test the stain and finish I'm going to use.

I have, but there wasn't room in this design on this width belt as it distorted the groove accent on the edge on the test piece so I did without it. I liked the effect that was created by the stamp along the boarder in this case anyway. On a wider pattern, a holster or 3" gunbelt, I have a favorite border tool I use. A couple in fact. I keep a bunch of offcuts in an old canister on the back of the bench to try various layouts before I start on the belts.

Thanks guys... I have worked hard to improve, and had decent results with my craft, but have been told several times that my burnishing and depth issues were more a function of the tandy leather than MY failures. I have purchased a decent amount of leather tools from Tandy, Weaver, and Springfield... and was about to order some HO leather from Weaver, but the wife wanted to surprise me with a better quality SET of bevelers from Weaver and paid for Priority shipping. Took ten days for the order to arrive. NOT Weaver's fault, the tracking showed they got the order out the same day. USPS took their sweet time. I'll check the other resources you guys mentioned. I plan to order some quality leather in the next month. I have a good supply of leather still, but when I do belts and Gunbelts, or tooled sheaths in the future, I'd like to start the project knowing the tooling will have a fair shot. LOL. I just finished this belt for my daughter, and the tooling turned out pretty nice, but as you can see, the depth could have been better, and the leather had some spots and defects I didn't see until I applied the finishes. She won't complain... she uses the things I make for her. Knives, sheaths, holsters... she is a farm girl, runs a boarding barn. Works it herself. The other belts I made and the gunbelt all would have benefitted from better leather I think.

I have been working and practicing now for several years and the quality of my work has gotten increasingly better, as it should. In any hobby, if you work at it, you'll improve. I keep reading about Hermann Oak Leather being THE leather to use for the best tooling results, and THE leather for Holsters, Belts, Sheaths and the like. I like the results of many of my projects but feel my tooling isn't as deep or as sharp as I think it "Could" be. I read that some of the root cause might be lesser quality leather. Tandy vs. Hermann Oak. Input? What say the peanut gallery? Those with experience using both? If Hermann Oak is a better leather, anyone recommend a really fair source. I know it will be a higher cost... I see several sources offering the leather. Who is recommended based on price, customer service, and consistent quality? Thanks.

I really like it. Our Pastor in Hawaii had a custom tooled cover for his personal bible. It was very worn around the edges. Protected his bible, but showed it got a lot of use. His cover had been a gift from a saddle maker in his previous congregation.

That's awesome. If you can't find, or afford, what you need, make it. Someone did. Great find... I'll bet the person made a LOT of things with those and loved them.

Looks good. When you have a limited edition knife, you can go with a limited edition sheath.

Nice clean work. I can see where it would sell well. I have a few buck knives still, including a collectable issued by the Fish and Game when I worked for them. I gave a few of them to the kids as they moved away and might need one to keep in the car or whatever.

I made a couple 22 ammo pouches to dump loose 22 ammo in for walk around plinking with the rifle or handguns. The first was a belt mounted pouch, and the second was to be clipped on a cross chest or shoulder strap. Both would hold about 100 rounds or so easily. It was a challenge, I had to learn the box stitch and the design was my own, so the first one had some glitches to work out. I enjoyed the process as much as the finished pouch.

I personally finish the underside of all floorboards before I put them down in the rooms I install them in. I know, I know, you can't see the underside, but "I" know what's there. I also tend to sand the inside of boxes to a glass like finish before I cover them with velvet... But it's just me. Nah, jk. I make knives, and you do roughen the tang under the scales to insure a better adhesion of the epoxy, you also rough up the underside of the scales.

I have a Cobra 3200 I am trying to learn, but it's slow going since I don't sew that many large tasks and still do a lot by hand. I will make more Gunbelts in the future, but won't go with high round counts unless I make one on request and they specifically overrule my recommendations. Not likely since I don't normally make gear for anyone but friends and family... I don't normally sell my work... just makes life easier.

Nice work. Have you tried the belt on with both guns and all the loops filled? I was shocked at how much my belt weighed with 18 rounds, 4-1/2 inch Uberti 357 Birdshead, and the stag skinner. . I'm thinking my next will be the holster, sheath, and two six round loops.

The Sun did it's job and the melt off finally occurred. UPS arrived today and Edge Kote in hand I headed to the shop and worked the edge kote around all the edges. Holster, sheath, and of course the gun belt itself. Once that dried, I re-burnished all the edges to a high sheen. I am pleased with the black accent. I call this one done!

Thanks, choosing a knife was an issue for me as well. Choosing... My wife told me to slow down on the knife making... She was kidding. SHE is knee deep in Quilts. Hopefully all the orders will arrive today, the snow has melted away.

Beautiful job.

As I said, I'm waiting for the edge coat, it was supposed to arrive Thursday, started snowing and UPS didn't run. Kept snowing all thru the night and into the afternoon on Friday. UPS didn't run. Our tertiary rural Oklahoma roads don't get treated or plowed. The company that takes care of them is called "Mr. Sun." Supposed to hit the Mid 40s for the next four or five days, before dropping back in the low 30s or so. Mr. Sun should do his job... The UPS updates on tracking say, "Sorry for the delay, should see your stuff by Tuesday ..."

Very Clean stitching, and nice looking with the brass guard, but would not be very practical for use. Would look nice for Costume or dress wear but would get dirty quick being white. If it was for ceremonial use, like a Guard Post somewhere like at the Alamo, Great Job.

Thanks, I was going to use a couple walmart bags. I had seen the trick of tipping the top edge out a bit to keep it from getting eaten up from the cylinder edge. I've also seen them use a hammer or mallet handle to open the barrel channel up a bit first, so you aren't fighting it so much when you first insert the firearm. I may use a piece of dowel the right size so I don't tear the bag/plastic wrap. I don't care if I scuff the internal leather.

A look at the middle of the gunbelt where the cartridge loops ride: and of course the holster end. Once the edge dressing hits the mailbox, I'll post a final set of pics, but it's basically finished. It's been a great learning experience and I learned a lot from all the YouTube Vids and the practical application of the skills shared there. Next build I'll do some tooling and perhaps some inlays, something a bit more fancy. Surprised to discover the holster shrunk dramatically when it fully dried. It was a chore to get the Uberti to seat fully AND to draw from the rig. I'll soak the holster a bit then bag the gun and fit it back in the holster to stretch it back out and let it dry with the gun in place to form fit the pair. Hopefully this will cure that issue. Watch the space for a later update.

Back out this morning after breakfast and knocked out the sewing duties. Then stained the areas that showed raw leather from the holes. Added the decorative loop at the bottom of the sheath, and burnished the edges. Fitted the sheath to the gunbelt, then the holster. We are basically done until the edge dressing I ordered comes in. A long view of the completed project: Here is a close up view of the Sheath End:

Got a lot done in the afternoon. Got the snaps done, the retention strap sewn in place and the front glued on. Just need to trim and burnish the edges and sew down the front panel and the belt loop panel on the back. I got the burnishing done, and sewed down the front this evening, then started on the belt loop, then the boss called and told me dinner was ready. Shut it down and headed in. It was COLD out, in the mid 20s, wind blowing and DARK out already. I will not be heading back out. I'll finish up in the morning, or even after lunch. NO rush. Looking good so far.... Not perfect by a long shot, but not bad for a first attempt at the western rig.

Several sessions. Got a good bit done. I have gotten some of the assembly done, and gotten two coats of dye on and a coat of neatsfoot oil on to restore the flexibility. I burnished the edges of the loop and upper portion of the sheath body, and the retention strap. The sheath body will be burnished after assembly. This portion was not without a stutter here and there, but I used the part I messed up. Take a look at the far right. The tooled piece was the sheath body, but ... oops. Cut off the top portion and will use that for the belt loop. LOL. Getting close to having this done... will antique the tooling on the sheath body and upper sheath, as well as the retention strap, then apply a finish and the snaps for the strap. Glue up, then sew the belt loop and the sheath body. Boom. Sew around the edge of the sheath body... Couple coats of wax...

Next I went to work. I cut out each piece, then cut out two pieces of the wedge shape when test fitting showed I'd need extra. Test fitting let me mark where adjustments would be needed to the parts I had cut out. I marked and then tooled the front and back panels, while they dried, I skived the wedges so they would work. Got a lot done, but still plenty to go. Tomorrow I will recheck my work, and I'll also cut out the belt loop for the back of the back panel, as well as the front strap that will secure the knife to the sheath, and tool that. I am in no rush as I can't glue up the project until AFTER the concho is installed and I am waiting for those to arrive from Tandy, they should be finished with end of the year inventory and beginning to ship soon. NO rush... I can dye the pieces once they are done, taking care NOT to dye the areas that will be taking glue. I can install the various hardware that needs to be in place before the assembly and sew the belt loop on the back of the back panel.

First step on laying out the pattern is to draw the knife itself on the material used for the pattern. In this case, an old file folder. Then you play with the layout and design. I went with a two piece rather than a rolled over, so I could insure I'd have room for the concho, the tying piece for each aspect of the Gunbelt. As you can see, I added each component to stabilize the knife when sheathed. Once the layout was done, I cut out the main pattern, and redrew that on the folder. Then cut out the front section, redrew it. Cut out the welt, from the front piece, and redrew it on the file folder. Lastly I used that center I had cut out to make the welt as the pattern for the wedge. Then, using each pattern piece, I prepped the leather for cutting by transferring the pattern to the leather. I added the wedge to my pattern as I had seen it used on a post HERE on the forum. (A post regarding the Randall Knife Sheath.) Thank you Sir.