AlZilla

@Zonker1972 For future reference, either reply 'sold' or you could use the "Report" function in the upper right corner. We lock them and move them to Old/Sold. Like I'm about to do here ...

Yeah, a lot of us learn that the hard way. Partly because a lot of semi-scrupulous sellers market them as leather machines. You could put a bigger motor under the table and a torque increasing speed reducer. But you're still limited by the needle and thread size. But ... Let's talk about these Pfaff's! I haven't found one yet because they usually bring a premium price. You have multiples! I believe Singer bought the rights to make a machine based on the 130. If you look at Singer 306's you can see the similarity. A friend of mine recently found a Singer 206, of which I am most envious. It's a pint sized version of the 306. You have a great machine and I suggest you look into making some denim bags. I made a bunch from thrift store jeans and people loved them. The skills you learn will mostly translate to to a bigger machine, once you find one. Then just start keeping an eye out. I started my industrial adventure with a Singer 111W153, commonly called an "industrial walking foot" machine which is a good range to land in. It's a good all around general purpose machine. Many other kinds serve equally well, maybe better in some cases. Have you looked at Wiz's treatise on leather sewing machines? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/

l didn't notice that. Probably telepathic.

At 5:30 of this video, the lady is sewing those welted fingers with which you're struggling. I hate posting a yt video that might disappear, but it is what it is.

Interesting project. I see the difference in the 2 lengths, 219 vs 215.72. I wonder if that difference could be in how the old gloves stretched over the years. I've had similar problems trying to use an old hat I took apart as a template. Pieces just don't seem to like up as if expect.

From the lace at the top to the binding on the bottom, the first finger measures 5 3/4" long, all the way across. I can't see inside to see the details. It sounds like you're making a new glove?

What are you making that the three pieces wouldn't be the same length? 4 ounce leather really doesn't have any stretch that would lend itself to easing unequal lengths, at least as I understand easing from doing it with fabric. I'm going to move this to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum.

I'm going to move you over to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. I'll be surprised if those parts aren't available.

I've got a scad of these old domestics, but no Pfaffs I'll agree with Friquant that the old Pfaff really should start slow and smooth and ramp up evenly. Foot controllers are often a culprit, The motor itself can be a factor. Most of them can be disassembled, cleaned, the commutator surface refreshed and new brushes installed. Plenty of youtube videos. Find one shows how to test the windings for opens and shorts. A multimeter can test the foot controller. I don't have any exact values to give you but the resistance should start off high and drop to zero or close enough with the pedal fully engaged and do it smoothly. Let us know how its going.

That cabinet manual might be interesting to important for Singer collectors. Cabinet information for antique machines is sketchy. Ismacs.net has a number listed but it's far from a complete list.

I wouldn't deliver a flawed product in this case.

Looks like about $140 US. If I'm going to part with one that I've gone through and made good as new, it takes at least $100 US to pry it away. Most people would rather go the Walmart and drop that same money on a less capable, low end plastic machine. The difference is a couple years of service vs a couple of lifetimes. Here's hoping this works out for you. I've made a lot of denim bags on 237's and similar Kenmores.

Depends. If it's a personal item and I can't fix it, I might live with it. If it's a sale item and I can't fix it, I'd start over.

Gotcha, I misunderstood your question. That does seem a little odd.

Yep. The bobbin thread runs through a slot/notch and under the tension spring on the bobbin case. EDIT: I'm not sure what machine you have but when you drop the bobbin in, there will be an angled slot somewhere in the case. The bobbin thread will go into that slot *in the same direction that the slot is angled up*. That notch you refer to should be the top end of the slot. Pull the bobbin thread up and out that notch. The bobbin thread then changes direction and passes under the spring. Every machine I have operates this way.

Very good advice. Making all your rookie mistakes on the first project.

I'll second CKPSMS. They're on amazon or ebay. I've purchased quite a bit and always been satisfied.

Very nice. If it's in a shop I imagine it won't be inexpensive but I'd hope they will have gone through it and fixed any issues. In my part of the world, we find them anywhere from free to $30 or $40 from private sellers. I doubt a small shop would bother with one. My biggest complaint with any of those 70's and 80's machines is when they start slow and the motor grumbles and growls. It can be just a lack of lubrication or it can be the motor and/or foot controller. All fixable issues but take time and money. I would expect a machine from a shop to start smoothly and run easy.

Good point. Tandy has tons of leathercraft books for free on it's website. https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library

I very much like the 237. Straight stitch and zigzag. Some versions had a way to drop the feed dogs, some didn't. It sports pretty much the same guts as the Class 15 machines that have been sewing relentlessly for a hundred years, except they added the swing needle mechanics. When you say #45 thread, I assume you mean Tex 45, well in the range of a domestic machine. Another machine I like for that application is a Kenmore 158 or 385 series machine (though avoid the later, plastic bodied 385s). They have all metal running gear and you can find them in free arm configurations.

Nice. I don't seem to see a swivel knife. Not necessary unless you want to do carving, like a portrait or a floral pattern on a knife sheath or holster. Yep, understanding the many types of leather available is tough. Vegetable Tanned, or "veg tan" is the type you need to stamp and carve on. Chrome Tan is cheaper and available in an array of gaudy colors but is to be avoided for anything that will contact metal (as a knife sheath or holster). Then there's thickness. Learn the "ounce" system, would be my advice (for which you have not asked). An ounce of leather thickness is 1/64th of an inch. Wallet linings are often in the 2/3 ounce range. The outside can be up to maybe 4/5. Knife sheaths, I usually use 4/5. Many people go heavier. Gun Holsters typically run 8ish to 10 ounce. Belts can be 4/5 up to 12 or more depending on the application, sometimes 2 layers. If you ask 10 people for their thoughts on the last paragraph, you'll get a dozen different answers. For me, I keep 3 hides around, a 2/3 ounce, a 4/5 and something 8 to 10 or so. All undyed veg tan. And then there's a question of brands ... I'm lucky to have a very large leather/fur dealer close by and use whatever they have. Others are very loyal to a given brand (Wickett & Craig, Herman Oak, etc) and would sooner fight a Holy War than change. The Saddle and Tack people are a world unto themselves where types of leather are concerned. Looking forward to your progress.

@Bren2736 We probably need to know if these include shipping and what types of payment you accept. Don't forget we have a global reach so you probably should address international shipping or not.

You seem to be creating a niche. Not every newbie with an Amazon starter kit is going to be doing this but I don't think it's a big enough market for some Chinese factory to spit out 5,000 before lunch tomorrow. Plus, doing custom bespoke orders for someone's favorite book. You're on to something.

If you're sewing a few stitches, reversing and then sewing forward again, you're running over the same stitches 3 times. That is going to be messy. Plus the needle hole isn't going to accommodate 3 threads. On my big 441 clone, I start a few stitches from the beginning, reverse 3 holes and then stitch forward again. This gives me 2 locked stitches with 2 threads each. You could try this or follow Hildebrands method, which is how we do it on machines without reverse. I think this is likely your problem. I'd double check that the machine likes that 207 thread. My 111Ws cap out at 138. How about they bobbin thread? What size are you using there?

We are going to need pictures. You need to be very precise in how you backstitch because this bigger thread we typically use looks messy quick. Definitely a quick picture of what you're calling "bad", please. .