AlZilla

With the usual warning that on my best day, I'm a rookie, I've had great results with Blackrocks Leather N' Rich as the only finish I've mostly used. Hats, holsters, sheaths, whatever, rain just beads up and rolls off. On no particular schedule, I'll reapply it. It provides a decent sheen. The hat in the profile pic has saddle tan dye, a little antiquing gel and Leather N' Rich. It's been rained on at least a couple dozen times with no ill effects. Plenty of my stuff got no dye, nothing but Leather N' Rich. It all acts the same. And, it's a great hand lotion! Just what works for me.

Let's tag @LMullins and see if we can get his attention. The forum should send him a notice that someone is looking for him.

Compare your video to this one. Looks like yours is going the wrong way. EDIT: The needle is going up and down at the right time but the foot isn't. Looks like to me, anyway. Somebody here will know exactly what it is.

Good catch. Go look at his video. It looks to me like the machine is running backwards.

I love that table with the cool thread stand. Personally, I've never seen one like it. Congratulations on a great find.

I'm quite impressed that you have open floor space. Welcome aboard.

Below is a sreenshot from jeffreycustomleather.com of a holster they offer that rides between the belt and the pants. I'm wondering if anyone has made or used something along these lines. I'm going to see what I can engineer. For us fat guys, an OWB holster tends to tip out at the top. At least for this fat guy. I could see something like this being advantageous. Probably need to keep the mouth above the belt so the mouth doesn't crush when the gun is drawn. Galco offers one: https://www.galcogunleather.com/jak-slide-2-0-belt-holster_8_1176_1493.html A search for the phrase "Holster between the belt and pants" turns up some discussion around the net.

Why wouldn't just a piece of kitchen countertop work? A nice little backsplash might be handy.

Mine was a hat. $150 for a hat?!? $500 later I had a hat ... And a new skill. Welcome @TheFrood

Hey, Thanks for getting the pics over here. I know nothing about saddles but I like that one. I'll be waiting to learn more about it.

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As above, do the math. An X or W pattern helps add stitches, if you need them. I made mine from pig suede. I wrapped webbing all the way around and sewed it with v138. I used maybe 1.75 inch webbing. Essentially, the webbing carries all the weight anyway.

As a practical matter, I believe the strap is going to stay safely on the lady's handbag.

Here's a dissertation on seam strength: https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops Sailrite says "Stitches Per Inch x Breaking Strength x 1.5" = Seam Strength Per Inch I think your wife's handbag is going to hold up.

Plenty of handbags are made on domestic machines with V69 or less. Unless it's a bowling ball bag, she'll be fine.

Well, that is cool. The first one won't load for me but the second one does. In the OPs case, that one won't get deep enough to help him, but still very cool.

@PastorBob These are a slot and a Philips. Somewhere I have slot/Allen, too. When I get to a big computer I'll find the Amazon link, because that's where I actually ordered from.

Funny how often the search for answers lead right back here to leathercrafter, isn't it?

I'd lose the neatsfoot oil. Maybe just on the end. That stuff can really soften leather.

You only have a short window of time to edit. You can just add a new reply with any updates.

@anam I could be wrong, but I think you have access by default now. Scroll on down towards the bottom. If not, I'd imagine the BossLady will fix you up. Try this link: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/44-adults-only-nsfw/

I think some of the problem is when the material thickness is such that the screw bottoms out before the material compresses significantly. A rubber washer between the flap and the holster may help in your case. Or the locktite, which I've never tried. In my case, I stopped using domed Chicago screws. I now use ones that have a slot on one side and an Allen socket on the other.

Probably should define where you'll ship to, unless you're up for international shipping!

3 phase is not in homes in the US, generally. I buy electric motors when I see them at yard sales and such and never see a 3 phase motor.

Here's a search on practical machinist about this very subject and it's a rabbit trail of complications with no clear answer. Single phase motors are harder than 3 phase and lose torque when you slow them down. I coughed up the money for a purpose designed servo. I wanted to spend my time sewing, not reinventing the wheel. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/search-entire-site/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=speed control single phase motor&gsc.sort= Years ago I wanted to slow down a drill press and used a tread mill motor to do it. I just mounted the entire control panel on the wall behind the press and used the speed control knob. It's working great to this day, it just lacks finesse.