AlZilla

Yeah, I saw it after I hit the submit button ... 😱

A site search for LU-563 turns up 18 pages of reading material. https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?&q=111w156&page=2&quick=1&item=132320&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

That looks like a win to me. It's a pretty close clone of the Singer 111w156, if not identical. Parts and information are going to be abundant and easily found. Look for the user instructions. If the 156 isn't easily found, the 111w155 will be close enough for the oiling points. You know that journey of a thousand miles that begins with a single step? You just took that step. Welcome to the rabbit hole. EDIT: Here's the 156 manual. It'll get you started. 111w156.pdf

Ask the client to measure his pens.

Well, the good news is that you probably don't have to take it all apart. and you might just be able to oil it and go. Some pictures would help us to to evaluate it. Maybe a video walk around. Do you have the whole machine, table,motor and all? Or just a head unit? For starters, I'd oil it everywhere metal moves against metal. All the oiling points on top, everyplace underneath that a bushing, bearing or anything else moves metal on metal. Turn it over by hand and let it sit for a day. If you have the whole setup, motor and all try running it and give it a listen. When I got my first industrial, it turned over a lot harder than any domestic i had worked with. I had no idea how tight it should have been so I erred way on the side of caution and flushed PB Blaster through everything followed by sewing machine oil. Turned it endlessly by hand trying to decide if it was too tight. I removed the internal belt so I could evaluate the top and bottom separately. After a week or so of this activity, turned out it was fine to begin with.

Red Nichols, as I recall, recommends horse butt strips. I've been trying to find the post over on the Smith & Wesson forum where he talked about it. I'll keep looking.

@BaroqueLeatherGal, you could tag @terrymac to get their attention.

It takes some research but you can find cheap servos with a start speed of 100 rpms. In my case, with the small pulley and a speed reducer, I can get down to 11 stitches/minute. There's a whole rabbit trail of slow speed versus cooling. But I think at the hobby level we're not running these things for prolonged periods of time, so it's probably not a giant issue. 11 spm is ridiculously slow.

It will But you may want to find a version where the control box is separate from the motor. This way the controls can be mounted at the edge of the table where you can play with them. The style you show would require you to climb under the table to tweak any of the settings.

Welcome to the forum! I patiently moved this to Leatherworking Conversation and tweaked the title. It's really a general question so maybe it'll get more traffic over here.

You're doing one of the exact things recommended for new sewists. People starting out with domestics are recommended to sew on paper until they get the hang of it. I would switch to cardboard instead of using up your leather and just keep sewing patterns without thread. Build muscle memory.

A lot of people sand edges like I would a table top, progressively finer down to pretty fine grit. I use my sander to roughly clean up edges with 80 to 120, depending on what's on the machine. Never hold it long enough to build heat. For the most part I'm evening up layers or cheating an edge to parallel with the stitching. I might hit an edge with 150 by hand before slicking it down. Bear in mind, I'm not interested in super slick, polished edges. But, yeah, that sander can do a lot of damage in a hurry.

I like the jig idea. Centered and spaced correctly, all at once.

I couldn't picture that shaft until I went back and looked at one of mine. Now I see it runs in the lower part of the arm! Another lesson learned for me. I, too, will have to double check where it gets oiled.

Is leatherworker.net a tool? It's been a great learning resource for me.

Some things never change. In 1787 Thomas Jefferson called out the British gazetteers of the day for fake news: "Wonderful is the effect of impudent and persevering lying. The British ministry have so long hired their gazetteers to repeat and model into every form lies about our being in anarchy, that the world has at length believed them, the English nation has believed them, the ministers themselves have come to believe them, and what is more wonderful, we have believed them ourselves. Yet where does this anarchy exist? Where did it ever exist, except in the single instance of Massachusets?"

I moved this over to the sewing machine sub forum. Somebody here will know what you need.

I know nothing about this machine. But if I had to make a scientific wild assed guess, it would be this.

Let's tag the OP to be sure they see this. @soulcraftgoods

Welcome aboard. You've found the very best place on the net to learn about any and all aspects of Leathercraft. It was pretty much the first place I landed a few years ago. For the adult stuff, we keep that in the sub forum at https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/46-oh-no-dont-stop/ You'll need the secret password to enter, which is "adult" without the quotes. The password just keeps it from showing up in the regular flow of more family friendly content. Have fun!

I did watch the video. I had to go look at my 153. I found the clamp in the attached pic that looks like it would affect the position of the needle bar. Haven't a clue. Yet. EDIT: The part number is Simanco 202666 and comes back as "Rock Frame Position Bracket". Do we have a winner?

I have a couple of this class machine but haven't run into this problem. Forgive me if you've done this, but it seems like popping that cover off and turning it by hand should yield some kind of clue. Just observing and following the mechanism back. I poked around a bit and couldn't find any videos on adjusting the needle bar position other than height. Tomorrow if it's warm in the craft room I'll look at mine and see if anything jumps out at me. Now I'm curious, too.

Based on what Constabulary says, it's like my 111W151 and I agree with his assessment. I like my 151 and it might work for what you want (I've done small leather goods w/o trouble). The lack of reverse is not a big deal until you get to small leather goods. The backstitch with larger thread becomes important from a visual perspective. There are a couple ways to do the back stitch but they take a little learning curve and practice and you'll still fluff it once in a while. For not much more money you should be able to find something with reverse and *know* that it actually works. Besisde, 300 bucks for a run of the mill machine that might work? Even if you know what you're looking at, it's still too much.

Here's a pic of the same machine right here in this very forum. I think it looks like a longer tension arm. I'd send pics to whoever "fixed" it and ask them.

I know zero about your specific machine but lots of these machines are clones of one another. Take another look at the videos you were sent and be sure they're not the same machine.