AlZilla

How about painters tape or something like it on the presser foot? Might be a middle ground between Teflon and glue.

I had that same thought. But if they made 10 different bobbin setups, I'm thinking the spring must be l pretty fine tuned to the intended thread size.

In New England you can even start a Holy war by bringing the wrong kind of hot dog bun. This is a proper Hot Dog bun. Although a righteous Chicago Dog requires an entirely different bun.

I know nothing about that machine but I know a little about mechanical things. From your video, it just looks like a rough spot or a piece of metallic debris need to be cleaned up. I would definitely get LMC or whoever you bought it from to bless you taking it apart beforehand. It shouldn't be like that on a new machine but it doesn't seem like a fatal flaw. I'll be interested to find out what it ends up being.

Yes. The thicker threads we use for leather create a lot of unsightly bulk when you start forward, back up and come forward again. And the hole created by the needle isn't really big enough to have 3 stitches run thru. I use V138 and up. I start, needle up, where the 3rd hole would be and drop the needle 3 times, backwards. That gives me 2 complete stitches, with my needle all the way down and at the beginning of my intended stitch line. Now I can stitch the "right way" (forward) and I get 2 locked stitches when I hit the 3rd hole again. With domestic sizes of thread and needles on fabric it's not so obvious. On my machines without reverse, I do the same thing by turning the material around. Simple to do, but apparently takes a lot of words to explain... 😃

If I had this on a leather machine, I'd want it to backtack 3 holes first, then go forward from there. This way I only get the beginning stitches run over 2 times instead of 3. That's how I do it anyway. This way my first 2 stitches are doubled up as I get when hand stitching.

@BurntLeatherCo hasn't been seen around these parts since May. But that tag I just did might send them an email that somebody is talking about them. Maybe he/she will check in and you guys can get together.

Is it maybe supposed to come out over to the right, at the 5:00 position and ride over that tab?

I had a little time this morning and here's a post that apparently has a manual attached. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/78444-download-singer-132k6-seiko-sk-8-manual/ Let us know how else we can help.

Here's a start. 373 posts that contain 132K6. You could rerun the search and add "manual". https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?&q=132k6&search_and_or=or Welcome aboard!

@KyLeatherMan, I moved your post to our Marketplace area. Please review the rules, linked here and be sure you're in compliance. For sure we need a price and location and you need to address your willingness to ship. Thanks for listing it here and good luck with your sale!

Edge beveling seems to be an under addressed area for the rookie leather crafter. I would have liked to run into this rule of thumb early on, to start with a third to half the thickness of my leather and adjust to taste. Such a bewildering array of expensive bevelers to choose from in the market, I've just stuck with the small one that came in my original tool set. Thanks for this post.

Another one of those projects I wish I had an excuse to build. Well planned and nicely executed.

I like 1/8th" craft foam. It's about the thickness of 8 ounce leather and gives me a good idea how things are going to align and fit together. I don't sew anything or make a full prototype. Once I get it satisfactory, I have a craft foam pattern.

A local industrial sewing machine guy is a valuable asset. The 280-L appears to be one of the many machines like the 111W series and it should have reverse. Most of us equip a machine like that with a servo motor and a speed reducer. But that's a rabbit hole you can burrow into if you decide to pursue it.

It's a good question and I'll be interested in what the mad geniuses here have to say. Does it happen before or after you refrigerate it? Or does it matter?

@Zonker1972 For future reference, either reply 'sold' or you could use the "Report" function in the upper right corner. We lock them and move them to Old/Sold. Like I'm about to do here ...

Yeah, a lot of us learn that the hard way. Partly because a lot of semi-scrupulous sellers market them as leather machines. You could put a bigger motor under the table and a torque increasing speed reducer. But you're still limited by the needle and thread size. But ... Let's talk about these Pfaff's! I haven't found one yet because they usually bring a premium price. You have multiples! I believe Singer bought the rights to make a machine based on the 130. If you look at Singer 306's you can see the similarity. A friend of mine recently found a Singer 206, of which I am most envious. It's a pint sized version of the 306. You have a great machine and I suggest you look into making some denim bags. I made a bunch from thrift store jeans and people loved them. The skills you learn will mostly translate to to a bigger machine, once you find one. Then just start keeping an eye out. I started my industrial adventure with a Singer 111W153, commonly called an "industrial walking foot" machine which is a good range to land in. It's a good all around general purpose machine. Many other kinds serve equally well, maybe better in some cases. Have you looked at Wiz's treatise on leather sewing machines? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/

l didn't notice that. Probably telepathic.

At 5:30 of this video, the lady is sewing those welted fingers with which you're struggling. I hate posting a yt video that might disappear, but it is what it is.

Interesting project. I see the difference in the 2 lengths, 219 vs 215.72. I wonder if that difference could be in how the old gloves stretched over the years. I've had similar problems trying to use an old hat I took apart as a template. Pieces just don't seem to like up as if expect.

From the lace at the top to the binding on the bottom, the first finger measures 5 3/4" long, all the way across. I can't see inside to see the details. It sounds like you're making a new glove?

What are you making that the three pieces wouldn't be the same length? 4 ounce leather really doesn't have any stretch that would lend itself to easing unequal lengths, at least as I understand easing from doing it with fabric. I'm going to move this to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum.

I'm going to move you over to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. I'll be surprised if those parts aren't available.

I've got a scad of these old domestics, but no Pfaffs I'll agree with Friquant that the old Pfaff really should start slow and smooth and ramp up evenly. Foot controllers are often a culprit, The motor itself can be a factor. Most of them can be disassembled, cleaned, the commutator surface refreshed and new brushes installed. Plenty of youtube videos. Find one shows how to test the windings for opens and shorts. A multimeter can test the foot controller. I don't have any exact values to give you but the resistance should start off high and drop to zero or close enough with the pedal fully engaged and do it smoothly. Let us know how its going.