AlZilla

Based on what Constabulary says, it's like my 111W151 and I agree with his assessment. I like my 151 and it might work for what you want (I've done small leather goods w/o trouble). The lack of reverse is not a big deal until you get to small leather goods. The backstitch with larger thread becomes important from a visual perspective. There are a couple ways to do the back stitch but they take a little learning curve and practice and you'll still fluff it once in a while. For not much more money you should be able to find something with reverse and *know* that it actually works. Besisde, 300 bucks for a run of the mill machine that might work? Even if you know what you're looking at, it's still too much.

Here's a pic of the same machine right here in this very forum. I think it looks like a longer tension arm. I'd send pics to whoever "fixed" it and ask them.

I know zero about your specific machine but lots of these machines are clones of one another. Take another look at the videos you were sent and be sure they're not the same machine.

@noahjoshu We need the location/shipping info with this one, too. Looks like you're listing a few ads. If I notice any more lacking the above, I won't tag them, just be aware all ads need that info. Thanks for listing this stuff here.

@noahjoshu We need a location and shipping info to be in compliance with the Marketplace rules. Thanks!

I can't get that video to run this morning but it sounds like you're talking about what I would call the "case opener". A finger that contacts the bobbin case at exactly the right time and pulls it counterclockwise (in my machines) to be sure the needle thread clears when exiting the tab area under the needle plate The tab keeps the bobbin case from spinning around. If the machine is sewing, it can't be too far off. If the opener was holding full pressure all the time, the thread would hang up on the side where it enters the tab area. That said, it should have some float - I could see it accelerating wear on some parts if it's under even slight pressure 100% of the time. On my machines, the case opener finger itself has a slot on the end, where it screws down. I think there's even a spec to set the clearance. I know that doesn't tell you exactly what to do on your specific machine, but the concept is the same. Unless you're not talking about a case opener. If not, ignore everything I just typed... 😃

Welcome again and good luck with this venture. I looked at the website and I'm wondering if it's correct that shipping is free? I threw a couple things in the cart and it says Free Shipping, unless I just didn't go far enough.

Ah! Evidently something to hold a seal while you're carving it. Thank you! Ey! Belli ki onu oyarken mührü tutacak bir şey. Teşekkür ederim!

Our friends at google say it means "Clamp for engraved signature seal". I haven't a clue and I'm not clicking the link. @Veli, the language of this forum is English. It would be appreciated if you use a translation service. Thank you. Bu forumun dili İngilizce'dir. Çeviri hizmeti kullanmanız memnuniyetle karşılanacaktır. Teşekkürler.

It's very odd that it'll pierce the leather without thread but just stop when you thread the needle, but the hand wheel turns. There's a cover on top right next to the hand wheel. Open it up and see if the arm shaft is turning when it won't pierce the leather. I wonder if the needle bar isn't clamped tight ... Still very odd behavior.

Do you mean the hand wheel just spins and the rest of the machine stops? Maybe a safety clutch problem or the hand wheel is loose on the arm shaft? If the belt is slipping, the solution is obvious ... Can you turn it through by hand when it stops?

So, I moved you over to the sewing machine area. I don't see any problem talking about the old Kenmore. Ask away. @cpo1wh Is it a flatbed and the guts look something like this?

Seems like it ought to turn. Heat from a hair dryer or heat gun and/or I'd take one or more of those screws all the way out and put some kind of penetrating oil in there.

That is a lot of patience and finesse there. Nice work.

Moved this to the finishes area. For me, Blackrock's Leather N Rich works great for outdoor leather. Hats, sheaths, holsters, you name it. Even a year later, it's still shedding water and zero spotting. I'll dye items at whatever point and then the leather n rich when I'm done. Nothing else. It works for me.

Lots of those specialized presser feet have been around for over a century. There's a reason they endure. A zipper foot definitely lets a person stitch extremely close. In the case of a zipper foot (say on a domestic machine especially) you're well off to pair it with a needle plate that has a close fitting needle hole instead of a zig zag plate. The larger needle hole can let your sewn goods push through and mess up your stitch. You'll run into a lot of these little issues as you expand your sewing skills.

I wouldn't disable the brake. I want the motor to stop when I take my foot off it. I certainly wouldn't want the machine to freewheel another stitch or two.

I like the way the details vary where the pattern overlaps the edge.

Mine were thicker nylon straps. They had a loop sewn into one end that resembled maybe a dog leash handle. You made a noose thru the handle, wrapping it around your wrist and trailing down across the palm of your hand. Then the loose end wrapped around the bar and you held it in your hand. [Edit: maybe the end came back up through the loop] Maybe an inch wide?

I'm not familiar with that particular machine but the basic process is to roll the machine over until the needle rises about a quarter inch or 3/8" back up from the bottom. Then find whatever you need to loosen the shuttle hook so you can rotate it. Set the point of the hook right above the eye of the needle, exactly in line with the needle.. The exact measurements will probably vary for your specific machine but should be close enough to stitch. The hook should all but touch the needle. There a spec and a way to adjust it if needed. Also, if the point of the hook doesn't align right above the eye of the needle, you may have a needle bar height adjustment to make. For me, the big thing is to remove things like needle plates and food dogs so I have a good, clear view. Do it a couple times and you can do it in your sleep.

This one took me a while to figure out and some practice to get right. It is much, much better than basically running over your lock stitches 3 times with big thread.

Loose and inconsistent. Definitely something going on there. I'd do 2 layers to get a better idea how it's stitching. I merged your 2 threads together since it's the same machine and continuation of the same basic problem.

You guys and your lace work always make me feel like such a slacker ... Nice looking work!

A friend of mine recently passed at 91. Back in the early 50's she led an all female crew, welding up bomb bay doors on some kind of aircraft.

This often linked thread will explain the differences between types of machines and what to look for to do different kinds of leather work: