AlZilla

I know this is an ancient thread, but I think this is the guy you're talking about: https://www.youtube.com/@rewalston Maybe he restored them.

Don't get hung up needing all the name brand, hi dollar tools everyone seems to have. Get a basic tooling set and get to work. Looks like an Exacto knife and a straight edge are all you need for those dog leads, Pretty cool looking, actually.

Humph ... You guys have a lot more patience than me. But hopefully it works out. It does look like a fun machine to own.

Why do people list things for sale and then act like they're doing potential buys a favor even responding?

Does anyone have the actual bobbin tension spec for the 111W series machines? In my case, 111W153 and 111W151. AndyTube cites a spec for domestics of around 25 grams and apparently got it from an adjusters manual or somewhere official. I've been setting all domestics I work on at just under an ounce. I like repeatability. I have a 151 that's way too tight. I'm going to set it around an ounce and start from there, unless someone has the actual number. I looked in all the pdf manuals I have and don't see an actual number. Thanks!

I guess this means congratulations are in order. I'd love a Cowboy one armed bandit or a Tipmann. I can't remotely justify it, but I have this vision of a small mobile leather shop built into a little cargo trailer. No idea why, really. I guess the open road is beckoning ...

After struggling with lead free solders, I silver soldered dissimilar metals (copper and stainless) using Stay-Brite 8, liquid acid flux and Mapp Gas. That flow through problem is a tough one. How about filling it with epoxy?

Definitely like the elongated / asymmetrical quilting. I've done a few on a squared pattern. I'm certainly going to stretch it out next time. Nice work, good aesthetic.

Here are a bunch of manuals: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85809-pfaff-345-service-manual-download/?do=findComment&comment=582713 This thread talks a little about timing a 335: Maybe it'll help. It also mentions needlebar height. I don't know if it could slip enough to go 180 degrees out. Maybe one of the big dogs will sniff this one out and have an easier answer for you.

For 300 bucks in working order, I'd be on it like white on rice. A cylinder arm might be more useful for bags, depending on the bag and construction method.

Stop reading, go buy it. You'll always get your money back if you decide you don't like it.

In fact, the NFO might resist the black dye. It looks fine. Highlights the snowflakes.

You need to find out what 45K subclass it is. https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html Scroll down to the 45 section and even in they cylinder arm configuration there are a lot of variants. Some for heavy leather, some for bags, shoe vamps and things that make me question how much clearance there is under the presser foot. But it's really cute. EDIT: 45K1 says it has 1/2" presser foot clearance. Maybe they all do.

Hey, congrats on a quick resolution. Way too often people go straight to Defcon 1 instead of just calmly explaining their concern and letting the vendor respond.

Contact them, explain it just as you have here and ask if they have any ideas. They might be aware of an issue. Maybe you'll come back and report on a company that took great care of you.

I have an aluminum table and live in a colder climate. That metal table can be pretty uncomfortable.

I like that they proactively kept you updated. Good company, I'd say.

@adventureleather Thanks for your report and especially the video. It really shows how it runs. I really want one of these, I just can't justify the expense with as infrequently as I use the machine.

Man, if the seller damaged it loading - take it back and get a refund. You bought a sewing machine, not a project. Good luck, whatever you decide.

You're getting to make the whole rig, and I'm jealous. I love all that western gear and have no need of it. I did make a couple of holsters that sit 4 or so inches below the belt. I like it a hell of a lot better than a regular belt holster. Just ask the end user what he wants for retention.

It seems like a welt would open it up if the lining has made it smaller. Its probably worth continuing just because you don't know. For me, 6-ish oz works for holsters. I know everyone likes a thicker leather because it wears better, but for me I like the lightness, it wet molds and holds shape. So why do I care if it wears? I'll make another.

I found this document (attached) , linked from which is freely available here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/fguixlhek7y5jvvxd3d8j/AEP74cNQFHNPsDaZBdjdKDk/!CD 3.27/000 - General Notes/Replacing Leather?dl=0&rlkey=bzktg0ha776n5dy3mdax8nys4&subfolder_nav_tracking=1 replacing leather.pdf

Yes it does and I'll try it next time I handstitch. Sounds like one of small tweaks we learn along the way. Thanks for the tip off!

That is some enviable hand stitching. It can be so hard getting the stitches on BOTH sides to look great. I usually manage to wobble that pricking iron and my backsides wander. Most impressive work.

No idea of the market but why not bullet loops on one side and artwork on the other? You've covered it all.