AlZilla

Others will be along, but 12mm is pretty close to a half inch. I'd be looking at something like a Cowboy CB 4500. I'd think you're using pretty thick thread. I think the CB3500 is the same machine just with a shorter arm. Known genetically as a 441 clone, if that brand isn't available in the UK, something just like it is. Plenty of other capable machines but that's the one I'm most familiar with.

Have you looked at the PDF attached to the first post? That seems pretty generic to me. You just need the measurements of the rifle in question. Maybe I'm not understanding something.

This topic wouldn't really "close". That's mostly for the For Sale section. Maybe tell us where you found it to help out the next guy looking for one.

@TonyD1948, I moved this over to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. This is where the sewing machine types hang out.

Keep one, sell one and keep an eye out for some kind of a 441 clone. With that combo you can sew just about anything your heart desires. Though a case could be made that a post bed should be your next heavier machine instead of a cylinder arm. It's a rabbit hole and you jumped in. I'll see you when you get down here. 😃

Ha! I didn't notice the size. I started out looking for a taxidermy form called a "Shoulder Mount". That would be life sized. Seems like the forms run to under a hundred bucks. Maybe a taxidermy shop could source one?

How about this? $50 on amazon.

I have read on here that the brushed servos start from zero and have better low end torque. Verify this for yourself! I have a few brushless servos, one of which starts at 100 rpms. With a 45mm motor pulley, a 6"/2" speed reducer and the stock 3.5" machine pulley, I have a bottom end of 11 stitches per minute. You'd never really sew that low but it gives me a slow start with good control and torque. Still, the brushless motors increase in increments of 100 rpms, whereas the brushed versions apparently increase smoothly. When I need another servo motor, I think it'll be a brushed version.

It's looking like @KyLeatherMan has abandoned this ad. I'd hate to archive it if the machine is still available. But we don't want a lot of junk ads either. Let's see if the poster responds to this tag ...

@Allergic I'm going to move this over to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. But it seems pretty cryptic. Maybe you could flesh it out a little for us?

Some leather just doesn't sand well. Also, that's fairly thin leather, which I've had trouble with, too.

It's a small sample so not a lot to go on. Definitely a skill and practice issue more so than a thread issue. Some of the stitches are very consistent, while others look like a road map ... Exactly where most of us started. The bottom right corner of the first pic looks like one of the holes is out of line. This can be caused by not holding the pricking iron exactly vertical. It's amazing how a little tilt can move the bottom hole out of line. One key to good stitching is consistent hand motions. Up, down, over, under, left, right, whatever you do, do it exactly the same on each stitch. The edge looks like it could have used a little sandpaper before burnishing. Many crafters will go through several grits of sandpaper before they ever pick up the edge slicker. To a point, it's a personal taste thing. For me, I rarely go finer than 150. Others will run up to 600. All things considered, you've turned out a functional piece you can use and gotten your feet wet, so I'd call it a success. Maybe look for one of the many places that sell bags of scrap leather. For what it is, I think it's over priced but it gives you some pieces to make key fobs, coasters, card holders and other small things to practice all these little skills. Hopefully more experienced crafters will weigh in, too. I've only been at it a couple years myself but I'm comfortable offering as much as I have here.

This earlier post shows the starter kit he got. Pretty much what you'd expect.

@cmunch To be in compliance with the rules, we really need a picture of this. Looking forward to seeing what else you list.

@Bunker85Hu Might want to specify where you'll ship. We have a global reach. Nice looking tools. Thanks for listing them here.

No, that's a quilter. They'll sew long runs of little pieces together like that in their construction process. She'll cut them apart later and sew them to other pieces, so no need to lock their stitches. The Davis machines were fairly popular a hundred+ years ago, so who knows. EDIT: the plate you refer to above is a straight stitch plate. I hadn't thought of that and it reminded me - Have you played with the also often overlooked presser foot pressure?

It sounds like an industrial would just be too big for you. Depending on how committed you are to solving it, a Davis Vertical Feed would probably do it. Walking foot, needle feed and no feed dogs. Quilters love them. I know of no modern equivalent. I have one of these in my stash and it's pretty cool. Go to 1:30 to see it in action.

How about painters tape or something like it on the presser foot? Might be a middle ground between Teflon and glue.

I had that same thought. But if they made 10 different bobbin setups, I'm thinking the spring must be l pretty fine tuned to the intended thread size.

In New England you can even start a Holy war by bringing the wrong kind of hot dog bun. This is a proper Hot Dog bun. Although a righteous Chicago Dog requires an entirely different bun.

I know nothing about that machine but I know a little about mechanical things. From your video, it just looks like a rough spot or a piece of metallic debris need to be cleaned up. I would definitely get LMC or whoever you bought it from to bless you taking it apart beforehand. It shouldn't be like that on a new machine but it doesn't seem like a fatal flaw. I'll be interested to find out what it ends up being.

Yes. The thicker threads we use for leather create a lot of unsightly bulk when you start forward, back up and come forward again. And the hole created by the needle isn't really big enough to have 3 stitches run thru. I use V138 and up. I start, needle up, where the 3rd hole would be and drop the needle 3 times, backwards. That gives me 2 complete stitches, with my needle all the way down and at the beginning of my intended stitch line. Now I can stitch the "right way" (forward) and I get 2 locked stitches when I hit the 3rd hole again. With domestic sizes of thread and needles on fabric it's not so obvious. On my machines without reverse, I do the same thing by turning the material around. Simple to do, but apparently takes a lot of words to explain... 😃

If I had this on a leather machine, I'd want it to backtack 3 holes first, then go forward from there. This way I only get the beginning stitches run over 2 times instead of 3. That's how I do it anyway. This way my first 2 stitches are doubled up as I get when hand stitching.

@BurntLeatherCo hasn't been seen around these parts since May. But that tag I just did might send them an email that somebody is talking about them. Maybe he/she will check in and you guys can get together.

Is it maybe supposed to come out over to the right, at the 5:00 position and ride over that tab?