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Showing results for tags 'cutting'.
Found 42 results
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Hey guys im about to get into leather crafting. I am waiting for all my supplies in the mail! My first question is what is the usual distance you use from the edge for your edge groover? My second question, which im sure will probably sound ridiculous to some of you, is when measuring the leather to cut for a project, how much extra leather do you sually cut on the sides to account for the space taken up by the stitching. For example, say i want to make a slipcover for a 5 in by 5 in square with a negligible thickness and my edge groover is set to 1/8 inch...would i just add 1/8 inch to each side of my measurement so that im cutting a piece that is 5.25 x 5.25 in ? Now say the thickness of the object is 1 inch, would i now add that to each side measurement as well to allow it to fit? i.e 7.25 x 7.25 Sorry Im sure i made this way more complicated than it should be, I tend to overthing things.
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I have been having some trouble cutting round corners and circles out of leather. Right know I have a utility knife, which works good for cutting straight lines for the most part, and an x acto style knife, which I have been using for cutting corners. The x acto is too flimsy and tends to bend when I am cutting corners, making the cut at an angle, most of the time. I would like a knife that is that same style, but with a sturdier blade that wont bend. Anyone have any suggestions? I almost bought this knife, but decided I better ask for some advice before doing so: http://usaknifemaker.com/industrial-knife-set-especially-designed-for-leather.html#.U785SajPmO0 Thanks, Zayne
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I recently bought a splitter off the tandy outlet supply site, req $899 got it for around $250. Every time I got to split leather it carves out the centre of my piece and the outer edges are the thickness i wanted. I have tried in several locations across the 8" blade so I know its flat and not a bent blade. Has anyone had this happen to them, could it be my technique or did I buy a lemmon tool. I have posted some pics of the splitter and what its doing. Thank you for your assistance. James Newbie
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Has anyone ever tried using a fine-toothed scroll saw (in particular the Dremel Moto-Saw Scroll Saw) to cut heavy leather? http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=MS20#.VHToqsn4Js4
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This past weekend I made some raw hide using KAWs method for dehairing(it worked pretty good by the way) thanks for that KAW, any way I am now ready to cut it into strings for several different projects, maybe royal reins, bosal, and buttons and I am curious of others opinion on how to cut the hide. It seems like if I take my strap cutter and cut around the hide I would have very little waste, vs cutting out rounds then cutting string. I have even seen where some just cut the hide in straps length ways. Are certain parts better for certain items, I know when making a saddle, saddle makers like certain parts of the hide for different pieces of the saddle. I'm pretty green to this but seems as if it would apply to braiding as well.
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Hi just wondering if any one has some good advice on cutting and finishing internal holes. For instance this half inch square I have drawn on a piece of scrap leather. I normally start by making an internal whole for each corner with a round bladed awl before cutting from one hole to another I find this prevents over/under cutting and means the internal piece falls out neatly. I'm having trouble using an edging tool and a slicker to finish the internal edge as good as my outside edges, mostly due to the hole being so small and not being able to run tools/glass ect down the edge as I would on an outside one. Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Hello All: I found this unusual tool at an estate sale and was told that is was an antique leather working tool? I cannot find anything that looks like it. Please help. Thanks
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Hello everyone, I made a short video to show how I use my laser to engrave and cut leather. You can view it here http://youtu.be/VLSaYWZG2n0. Regards KN
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I am looking for either Lucris or Weaver benchtop hand clicker. If shipping is not available I will travel anywhere to pick up. (tons of frequent flyer miles). Cash is ready and waiting. Dan
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Hi all, been looking around here for a couple of weeks and learning a ton, thanks for all the contributors! My first project is making key fobs. I have manually cut them up to this point and just came across a local company that makes steel ruled dies (AC Steel Rule). I have designed a 4"x 4.5" die that will cut 3 fobs at one time (each is 4"x1.5" with a 1/4" hole, all 3 share a long edge). Question is to but an arbor press or a shop press... I feel that the arbor press will be easier to operate (and faster be I am the unassisted power source) than the shop press but my concern is that a 1 ton harbor freight arbor press may not offer enough physics to cut the 6-8oz veg tanned leather. Any thoughts are appreciated!
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I have one of the small 3" Stohlman round knives from Tandy which I love the size but it's hell to keep it sharp enough to cut patterns out for holsters and such. Every 3-6 inches of cutting I have to restrop. One of my friends told me I should look at Greyghost or LR knives but both are well over a $100 and being on disability makes that price is a bit much for my budget. I am selling stuff but it's very hit and miss and not very consistent yet. I know Zack White tends to have good prices on tools and being from my home state of NC I try to send money there way when I can. They have 2 different Osborne knives one grey handle and a bigger one that has a wooden handle. The guy that guns a mobile knife sharpening business told type of metal is key with round knives. Cheap metal from the Middle East won't hold an edge for this type of work and will have to be ground daily. He carbon steel is the best which I doubt I can afford right now but something out there has to be in a more affordable price range. Any thoughts? The Osborne knives at Zack White are $50 and $65
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I've had it for a year now and have only used it 3 or 4 times. It's a Osborne clone I believe. I just don't have the strength to pull the leather through it! I may put it up on Ebay but I thought I'd let my friends here have a chance at it first. If anyone is interested, I am asking $275.00 plus actual shipping. Just send me a message at my Email: blackriverlaser@gmail.com Thank you! Joyce~ It has a wooden handle instead of the cast iron one like in the picture.
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Hello, I wanted to see how other experienced leatherworkers are marking and cutting their leather for more advanced projects. Right now I find myself using one of those rolling blades pressed against a metal ruler - typically used for cutting fabric. How are people cutting more advanced shapes such as curves, or just in general? Thanks!
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Hello, I was wondering what is the best tool to cut tight curves with? I'm using an x-acto knife with a no. 11 blade, a rotary cutter, leather sheers, and a standard utility blade. I'm having difficulty cutting tight curves into 3oz. leather. Is there a tool that would be a better fit for these types of cuts? Or is this just a skill level issue?
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I'm in Commerce GA and re-starting my children's shoe business after way too many years. I still have my dies, got a good sewing machine, but had a tough time finding a reasonable clicker. I bought a used Tippmann, not good for what I need, so finally found a Schwabe on Ebay. It arrived the other day and it works! OLD baby clicker - only weighs about 500 lbs - flywheel, not hydraulic. I am chomping at the bit! My grandbabies need shoes!!! But the clicker starts, then doesn't stop. Continuous clicking until you turn it off. I've googled everything I could think of, can't find a machinist old enough to work on her, maybe someone here can advice? I am pretty good at taking directions. Glad to be on board - I've been here getting advice by reading for a while now, just can't get the leather bug out of my system!
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Hey all, I've been doing some research on round and head knives. At first I thought that I would go with the Tandy brands just because they're close to me and reasonably cheap, but I've since reconsidered after reading some reviews. I've decided to save up and wait for a good quality one. However, I'd kind of like a 'stop-gap' knife for cutting curved pieces and patterns. Right now all I have is a utility knife that doesn't do a good job on curves. I've looked at the Tandy Industrial Knife and I'm wondering if it would fit the bill. Anyone ever used one? Pros and cons? Alternatives?
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We are offering Laser Cutting and Engraving services for Leather in Greater Toronto Area. We are based in Markham and have experience in cutting/engraving different types and thicknesses of leather. Our rates are competitive and turn around time is fast. You can contact us on sales@kustomkalligraphy.com or call on +1 647 786 2186. Regards KN
