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Found 29 results

  1. I think many expirienced leatherworkers will argue, that instruments to measure thread tension is not needed. You will be able to feel and see when the right tension. And you can quite easily find out what is wrong with the tension, when problems occur. I am not an expirenced leatherworker, and I have been using a spring dynamometer to measure thread tension. A dynamometer is an instrument to measure force. It has helped me to find problems with thread tension, and for some projects I write Down what the lower tension and upper tension should be to make a good result. When you use the same machine for different threads, it is nice to be able to get the right tension again without a lot of trials on fabric. When I search on "tension" in this forum, then I can see, that this topic is quite often debated and people ask for help. I recommend to Invest in a few spring dynamometers. This issue was discussed before in this thread a year ago, so i just like to link to that: I have now tried two kinds of instrument, and they are pictured below: The two on the top uses an internal steel spring, that is elongated by the force. The Electronic type have a very large range with a resolution of 0.005 kg and able to measure 45 kg. I think you need two or three spring dynameters for different max forces to cover your needs. But these instruments are cheep. One issue is the variation in thread tension. I think the spring dynamometers will give you a better indication of variations than the digitale scale. The digital scale do have some time delay and averaging of the real forces. I did make a small video on the use of a spring dynamometer: Spring dynamometers are often cheap to buy from some suppliers of equipment to physics education in school. One Chineese supplier with some different types is this: https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=ecdepot&LH_PrefLoc=&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=dynamometer&_sacat=0
  2. I know that twisting of thread is often debated in this forum. I have tried to make a video of some of my findings in that regard. I look forward to your remarks
  3. Hello! I’m having an issue when sewing leather with the wrong sides together. The picture is the bobbin side of the sewing. I’m not sure what my problem is exactly. Is it my bobbin tension? Or pressure foot pressure? Any insight would be much appreciated. I tried adjusting both but saw no difference.
  4. Hello all, I've been having this problem with my TechSew 2700 Sewing machine and i pretty much tried everything and maybe now i can get some input from the great leather people here. So, I've had this sewing machine for a while and it's always going out of whack and i'm constantly troubleshooting problems.This time once i start stitching everything will be going fine and when i'm about 10 stitches in the bobbin case starts to make this struggle noise and the tension on my stitches gets to tight, or to loose then it will go back to stitching fine again. I've tried changing the needle, tweaking the hook timing, adjusting the upper, lower and bobbin tension, threading the machine over, re-winding the bobbin and even reset the motor on the machine. Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions? Thank Yall!
  5. Hello, I've recently purchased a cobra 26. Just a couple questions... When replacing the needle the eye goes from left to right but each side is slightly different. I had it in and the needle started hitting the case and broke so it's now going in the opposite. Is this normal? I was told just to put in the needle so you thread laft to right. Second, I've een trying to dial down the tension for the lightest weight thread the machine takes 69 as I'm waiting for heavier thread in the mail. Both with the 69 and 138 I can't seem to tighten that bobbin case anymore to get rid of the loop on top. I've tried 138 in top and bottom realizing maybe 69 is just a bit too light weight. Any suggestions?
  6. Hello all, I bought a singer 119-2 cylinder bed sewing machine and it is working fine after some tlc and a new servo motor. I would like to replace the walking feet with ones that would allow me to see the needle. The one i have now the needle goes through the front foot and makes it hard to see where im sewing especially around corners. Is there a replacement foot that will fit this machine? Having a hard time finding info on this. So far all i have seen is a foot that comes on the 78-3 but it has some teeth on the bottom and i was trying to stay away from that if i can since im sewing leather. Also i have my tension really high. I works fine but just seems really tight. I had to tighten it that much to get the seam right just doesn't seem right. Im using 138 size thread. Should i replace the tension assembly? Any info would help thank you.
  7. I'm trying to sew 2 layers of 1" nylon webbing and am getting the top thread showing on the bottom regardless of how tight I set the top tension; See images attached. The black thread is topside, green thread is bottom side. Both threads are size 69 bonded nylon. In the image of the bottom side I've tightened the top tension a little bit each time, until the final row where I maxed-out the tension. As you can see there is virtually no difference. I've tried two different needle types with the same results: Organ DP x 17 125/20 and Groz-beckert 110/18 RG. The organ needle is the largest one I currently have, and should be adequate for the size of thread I'm using. I'm wondering if the type of webbing I'm using requires a specific size or needle point? Things I've tried with no improvement on the bottom side stitches: Increased top tension all the way Reduced bottom tension to almost nothing Re-timed my machine Removed and cleaned the bobbin case/assembly I will also add, the tension unit is brand new, but I did take the time to calibrate it so tension engages and disengages properly with the knee lift. Images of the tension assembly attached. Is there something special about setting up this machine that I've overlooked? Any recommendations on things to try would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Forlornvanity

    Consew 206rb-5 issues

    Hi! I've tried searching other threads for answers first (MANY times), but I seem to continue to have issues with my thread tension and I'm dying for some insight. As you'll see in the photos (just a trial run so let's not even talk about how terrible it is haha) one side of the thread seems to be fine, and the back side is always appearing to pull through. It doesn't matter the thickness of material I'm using, and the issue still occurs when I change thread size. I've attempted to bring the tension all the way up/down and adjust a little at a time, but this issue never goes away. I'm threading right, the bobbin is facing the right way, the needle size is correct.. I'm just at a loss. The machine is less than a year old. I'm new to the industrial machine so it's certainly been a learning curve and it could totally be something I'm just overlooking. Any suggestions?
  9. Hello, I have an Adler 30-10 that has a death grip on the upper thread. The plates DO separate when the lift lever is up and a tiny amount of thread is pulled from the spool when the needle is going into material, but when it lifts up the plates are so firmly locked down that the thread is simply over-pulled for the take up lever to rise without making a pop sound. I've read through all the posts and done all the recommended settings but even when the upper tension screw is almost undone the plates don't release enough for the thread to ease through the plates enough at highest lever rise. This high tension is causing the material to gather up and makes the bobbin thread lie flat on top of the stitch. Could someone post a picture of the adjustment area so I can maybe get those plates to give up thread at the right time? Thanks to all for their knowledge and hopefully I can get a good stitch from this machine very soon.
  10. Just wondering why my Consew 226 needs so much upper tension to sew a balanced stitch? I just finished dialing in my other walking foot, a Consew 206 RB-1, and it needs very little upper tension to sew well. The 226 on the other hand, must be cranked down pretty good to sew well. The adjustment knob on the upper tension mechanism is nearly maxed out by the time the bottom side of the leather looks good. The threaded, split rod on the tension mechanism was splayed a little. I noticed that the nut would jump a thread on the split rod occasionally. In other words when I tighten the tension knob, sometimes the nut will strip on the threaded rod. So I ordered a new tension assembly and installed it today. The spring on this Chinese made tension assembly seemed very weak. I gradually increased tension and checked the stitch quality, but no dice. The tension was maxed out and the bottom stitches were still showing a bit of the upper thread. Not big loops or anything like that, just not a pretty and balanced stitch. With the tension maxed out on the new assembly, the tension discs were still pretty easy to move. So I put the original tension assembly back on, and it works, but the tension is really cranked up. Here are some additional details... 1. Bobbin thread pulls freely, with no significant tension. 2. I'm using #138 nylon thread. 3. #22 Schmetz leather point needle. 4. Sewing samples are two layers of 2oz. goat leather. It is soft and supple leather. 5. Tension releases normally with either presser foot lift or knee lift. So... any ideas why my 226 needs so much upper tension? Should I buy a quality Japanese made tension assembly or? Thanks
  11. Hello, I'm a nubie who's been lurking here soaking up much incredibly valuable info about the mysteries of industrial sewing machines. I recently acquired a Brother LS2-B837 that seems to be in pretty good condition. It was owned by a man who had a canvas business, so it has seen regular use until its owner retired a few years ago. Since then, it's pretty much been unused. I gave it a good cleaning to remove as much of the varnish and stuck-on lint that I could get off from the underside. Then I oiled it and made a few test runs. It worked pretty well until I changed the bobbin thread and realized I had no idea what I was doing. The bird's nest I got when I tried to sew reminded me. I have almost no experience with full-blooded industrial machines. I do have a Singer 20U73 which comes close, but still falls short of the category. I tried to download a manual from Brother but their manual is really for the LS2-B837-300A, a variant with a thread cutter, synchronizer, and other control features. I have some basic questions the manual doesn't cover--probably because Brother assumes anybody buying one of these machines already knows the answers. I thought someone here might be able and willing to offer some advice. My questions (so far) are: 1. How do I set the lower (bobbin) tension? 2. What it the correct procedure for loading a bobbin (direction of rotation, what should I do with the tail, etc.)? 3. How can I check the machine's timing to be sure it's right or needs adjustment? 4. How do I put oil into the reservoir that lubricates the hook? How much? 5. How much oil should I put into the upper reservoir? 6. What kind of oil should I use? Many thanks. I appreciate anything anyone can offer.
  12. I just bought a brand new Consew 206RB-5 and everything works fine until I backstitch. The stitches indicate tight bobbin tension/ loose upper thread tension, but it looks fine going forward. I'm afraid the items I make will pull out over time because the stitches are so loose. Does anyone know what this could be caused by, or ways to fix it?
  13. Hello, I just recently got my first industrial machine -- a used Artisan 618-1SC. I'm just testing it out with leather, and am having problems with the tensions. Specifically, my bobbin tension is as tight as possible, and my upper tension is as loose as possible, and yet I'm still getting the bottom thread showing. The bobbin tension is so tight that the thread barely comes out when bounce it like a Yo-Yo (the technique I've seen in a lot of videos as a way to tell the correct bobbin tension) The upper tension is so loose that any looser and the knob would come off I'm using 5-6oz bridle leather; a Groz-Beckert 135x16TRI size 20 needle; and size 92 polyester thread. See attached photos for the issue I went through the machine manual and checked that all recommended adjustments are within spec (they are). I believe I've threaded the machine correctly, based on the manual and a youtube video. In particular, the upper thread is correctly going through the thread controller disk, and I threaded the tension disc with the presser foot up (and made sure the thread seated fully in the disc) I've removed the bobbin spring and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. I also re-bent the spring so that it applies tension well. I've also noticed that when I do a back-tack using the reverse lever, the stitch gets a bit loose As it is, the tension balance is not terrible -- I could live with it. But it seems wrong that the bobbin tension is at its maximum and the upper tension at its minimum. With this setup, there would be no room for adjustment at all! Can anyone give some advice about what else to check? Also, is there a dealer that supplies parts for this machine? I tried emailing Artisan but haven't heard back Thanks! Alex
  14. Hello, First time poster here. I've gotten a lot of great info on sewing machines here and am hoping to find some help with figuring out what is wrong with my stitch. I'm sewing with a Consew 1206 and am a newbie. Bob at Toledo sewing kindly set me up with my machine to sew some handbags. I'm attaching a pic of the top and bottom stitches that will hopefully give someone more experienced a clear idea of what is going on. I'm wondering if the needle is too big?? Thanks!
  15. Hi all, I'd be grateful for some help getting my Pfaff 1445 going. I previous posted about feet, which I got from Hong Kong. They're mediocre but acceptable quality given the rarity of the machine. The machine wouldn't have been a bargain if it were free considering the time and expense that's gone into it. But hey, we've got another machine so I'll consider this thing a hobby. I've got the hook correctly timed, but I'm finding that it's very difficult to correctly balance relative top and bottom thread tension, or top dog pressure may be incorrect, or the bobbin case opener isn't correctly timed or distanced. Or all of these. Compound feed is accurately synchronized, needle bar centered in all dimensions, all stroke lengths are correct, bottom feed dog height properly set to ~.020" (.5mm) per the service manual. I've got a new needle plate, feed dog, and feet, which feed perfectly straight. I do need to take the needle plate over to the buffer and ease some of the edges the thread goes around. No problems with inconsistent tension between the cone of thread and tension rings. Top thread is correctly routed per the operating manual (unusual design and route). Bobbin thread is correctly placed and pulled. Pictures attached. Symptoms are: • Occasional skipped stitches and slightly inconsistent bottom stitch; the bottom and top quality don't match consistently • Backtack thread tension is very loose • Starting the stitch occasionally results in a squirrel's nest mess of thread on the bottom • When I get the top and bottom tension balanced such that the thread is more or less locking in the middle of my material, I occasionally find when turning the handwheel that the top thread is very tight as it crosses over the top of the bobbin and the motor may even slip on the belt I strongly suspect some kind of binding or tension issue is causing thread to get pulled off the bobbin or through the top inconsistently. I'm running a 3/4" HP servo motor with what I believe are the correct thread/needle combination for layers of 3 - 6 oz chrome tanned and retanned vegetable tanned leathers (the same size combination has always worked quite nicely on another machine).
  16. I've been sewing a lot, but only on others machines (industrial walkingfoots as well). I picked up a Brother LS2-B837 the other day and changed from a thin cotton thread to a tkt 20 (tex 150) nylon thread. It had a 130 needle, which would be about right accordingly to the thread brand (120-140). Seams to do well on the slide test. (Tried 120 and 140 as well) At first I tried with original thread tension, but it broke the thread. I losened both top and bottom tension a little, the bottom so that the bobbin doesnt slide down holding it in the thread, but loose enough to slide a bit with a gentle "jojo move". I would say its on the looser end now. The top tension I did loosen a lot, because the thread did not move at all, to a point where it falls off from the tension wheels. By the moment it will curl the top thread, and do a lot of birdnesting. Ive tried all day, with my limited error searchings skills, and I'm not even close to make one normal stitch, feels like a needle in a haystack!
  17. Hi all, I have a Juki Manufactured Econosew Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine with a Servo-Speed Motor. I've only had it a few months and I'm finding the tension to be very difficult to get correct. I have zero experience with industrial machines, especially for leather, so I've been having to figure it out as I go. I live pretty remotely so there's no one near who can come over and show me the ropes. I've spent hours and hours and hours adjusting the top and bottom tensions and I have yet to get it perfect. I discussed this with my mother in law who is a sewing machine genius (but sadly lives across the country) and she suggested that it could be the wrong needle and thread size for the weight of leather I use. Prior to getting the machine I researched here on the forum for needle and thread size for leather and was told to use needle size 22/140 and lubricated nylon thread size 138. However, I think the error is that those are for thicker and heavier leathers. I primarily need the machine for lightweight soft leathers and suedes. Think upholstery weight and sometimes even garment weight. Should I use a smaller needle? Different thread? The lubricated thread I got from http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ seems too slippery for what I sew and also too thin. I'd like thicker thread for the aesthetic. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Tired of spending hours and getting nowhere.
  18. Hello, I am working on the tensioning of my consew 206rb-5 I have two images here, one of the top side and one of the bottom. To me - a novice on a machine like this - the top is looking good, but the bottom thread appearance seems off? My first thought is to tighten tension for the top thread? It is already pretty tight though - enough that it is very difficult to pull the piece out when the stitch is doen, I have to manually pull some thread from the tensioner then my leather can be removed from below the needle. Thanks!
  19. I have a new Cobra class 20 and have been having a problem with the bottom tension looking as nice as the top. Please see attached pictures of my stitch. The needle, thread and machine are less than a month old. Using 207 bonded nylon thread top and bottom with a 135X16 size 23 needle. I have tried multiple adjustments, rethreads and nothing seems to make it better. The leather thickness doesn't seem to be playing a part either. I also tried 207 top and 138 on the bottom and it looked worse. I just assumed for that time it was needle punching a bigger hole than needed for the 138.
  20. Can anyone please help...have a highlead GC22618-8B....it was sewing well with a T40 thread....put a T20 on it with a 2.5mm hide.......it was fine for an interior pocket on a tote.....I had also fiddled with presser foot cos it was marking hide with two layers of this hide...then I went to overstitch one layer of the hide, and hey presto ...jamming.every time...the thread is coming up back through the walking foot as well as bunching underneath!,, any ideas..I have cleaned bobbin casing...rethreaded and oiled it....it seems to be picking up bobbin thread fine...renewed and double checked needle....even gone back to thinner thread..still doing the same! Is it tension or timing...excuse the metric , Im in Australia..best Regards
  21. I think I could use some help here. Recently removed the round point needles that came in the Techsew 4100 machine I purchased, and installed Organ 794 LR Size 230/26 with white 277 thread. First round was a complete disaster, finally managed to get the results shown in the photos. Not certain it is what it should be though, and I can't say that I'm happy with it. Any suggestions on what I should be doing to get this to be a better stitch? Also looks like it is blowing out the back, not a clean exit. One row is just with the needle, the second row has the thread.
  22. HI I recently bought a Techsew 3800 and thus far am rather disappointed. (2 weeks in) While Mike is trying to help me via email, the one question I do not seem to get an answer on is if it is normal to have different tensions for forward and reverse? I am not talking about going back over previous stitching, but when I for reasons of access need to work first in one direction & then in the other, I get significantly different tensions for forward & reverse with the reverse bottom being looser than when I stitch forward. Is this normal? Advice? Thanks :-)
  23. Howdy, I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out why my Pfaff 335 is marking my leather, especially at the start of a stitch line where I backtack. I've attempted to lighten the pressure of the presser-feet by backing off the knurled nob at the top of the machine, to the point it is barely hanging on to the machine, but it doesn't seem to have much of an impact. The inner presser foot seems to be fine, but the out foot is an issue. I've even placed my finger under the presser foot (machine off and needle out of course) to see if I can feel any difference in the pressure bing applied... I'm not sure what it should feel like, but its heavy. Seems like the the top pressure is not being affected by loosening the knob on top. That said, I haven't a clue what I'm doing. I've included a few picture to show how loose the top knob is, the position of the presser feet (they seem a bit canted to the left) and the marks being left on the leather. BTW... I'm stitching 3-4oz harness leather from Wicket & Craig. Any ideas whats going on here?
  24. fuzziehollis

    Thread Tension For Biothane

    This is my first post. Thanks for a having this great forum. I just installed a Cobra Class 4 (factory setup with #277 nylon). Great machine Steve! It sews thick leather like nobodies business. Problem is, I need to sew mostly BioThane with #138 braided nylon thread since I'm making endurance horse tack. I filled a bobbin and tried a test piece with the factory tension. The tension was so high the top thread puckered a lot and sometimes cut right through the urethane coating. So I started backing off the tension. This turned into quite the exercise. The bobbin tension was a big part of the problem. The factory setting seemed to be about 8 ounces on the bobbin and I have backed it down to 6.5 ounces. I may go down even further since this is starting to give me good results. I also removed ALL the the top tension and gradually dialed it in until I had a lock stitch centered in the work piece. I'm doing my test trials with a black bobbin thread and white top thread so I can see what's going on. It is feeding well and I am getting a very tight stitch but it isn't puckering or cutting through anymore. It improved again when I switched out the #24 sharp needle for a #25 diamond point. I thought the #24 would be plenty big enough...live and learn. Does anyone else have expereince or tips for working biothane on this machine? Threads? Needles?
  25. All- Good afternoon! Love this site and have been searching thru archives to see if this matter has already been addressed, but I didn't find it...(my eyes are fried!) Here's the deal...I am using Consew 228R-11 high lift post machine with roller foot, bought new about a year ago from East Coast dealer (far away) Yes, huge learning curve - more time spent taking apart, adjusting timing, etc than sewing! I too am fortunate but have sooo wanted to toss the machine (it's too big and heavy) and can relate to other members' posts regarding machine frustrations. I make mixed media bags with garment grade leather bonded to bag stiffener and vinyl in layers. Before sewing my actual bag, I check my stitch settings and sew samples constructed of the same materials, but this time it is just not cooperating. I have a flat strap of vinyl bonded (with tanners bond) to bag stiffener and another layer of vinyl that I want to top stitch to vinyl with a layer of foam headliner and a piece of garment grade (scrap) leather on the foam liner to help support the stitches. I use a small piece of double sided tape to hold the strap in place. My samples stitch perfect, but when I try the actual purse, (I am holding the ends of my threads the first few stitches) I get about 6 stitches into the seam and then the bobbin gets all tangled with needle thread. I know it is the top thread as I can pull the bobbin thread right out of the seam and the top thread's knots are all willy nilly on the bottom and even overlap. I have: removed the bobbin and cleared out debris changed my bobbin and thread used another new needle rethreaded my machine left it for days to see if it just needed a time out (oh, that was me!) oiled my machine Why would the stitching work on the samples but not the actual bag? I am trying to find a reputable area machine guru who makes house calls (got some names from custom shoe guy, upholstery shop and the studios, gotta make some calls) and found one shop about 40 miles away, but I can't get the beast off the table to take in for a look-see, and in the mean time thought I'd try the Forum... Anyone have similar experience and what did you do? Thank you in advance for your time and assistance. Leese