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Found 20 results

  1. Hi everyone, I’m using Angelus 4-Coat with an airbrush (Craftool All-in-One airbrush) and I just can’t seem to get anything consistent. I think what’s happening is the 4-Coat is getting tacky in the nozzle. I did read I could use 2-Thin but I’m still getting the same type of consistency. Perhaps I’m adding too much of the coat?
  2. Has any one tried this method? Found this picture on Facebook, the owner might be on here, I'm going to find a finer spraying nozzle and give it a go!
  3. I have been dying with a wool dauber and paintbrushes for some time now and would really like to use an airbrush. I find that when I use brushes and daubers my dye job is uneven and I end up putting on too many coats trying to even it out which results in my work coming out too dark. I have been looking around the forums for tips on what type of airbrush to buy but I haven't really found much pertaining to a preferred brand and why it is better than another. What kind of tip size is recommended and how much dye should it be able to hold? Also I have never used and airbrush so I don't quite understand the difference between the way it feeds the dye and which is better. Gravity vs Siphon. If anyone has any recommendations it would be greatly appreciated!
  4. Hi, In the past few days i thinking about using an airbrush. Some point i "hit a wall" with some question. What kind of dye can i use, with airbush? In my country there is a distributor, who sells Alder airbush dye (25ml each) Is it ok, for leather too? Is there any tandy leather or Cheq-Brill or any specific dye i can use for dyeing? Thank you!:)
  5. I have seen pictures of other people's work where the border is airbrushed in black and fades towards the center. Looks great. I tried to do it on some of my things and they don't turn out so good. I have been using Tandy's water-based dyes. The dye tends to pool up and look really gray when it dries out. I know that I am putting on a little bit too much on but that's in an effort to make it look black rather than washed out gray. I am thinking that I should probably be using a paint rather than a dye. Does anyone have any recommendations about a good product to use for this purpose. I am pretty good at using the airbrush to fade the product in.
  6. I know with airbrushing it only a top dye, so if you scratch the surface you can see the leather below. My question is: Is there a way to make the dye soak deeper? Denatured alcohol dissolves fast so if I use isopropyl alcohol, which stays wet longer, to cut my dye would it get deeper penetration due to the fact it will carry the dye longer?
  7. I'm looking to buy an airbrush for single color sprays onto leather. The one airbrush that seems to be the best fit for my work (cuffs, belts, and other small items) is the Thayer & Chandler T89K Omni 4000 http://goo.gl/MCGpT. With this I plan on using fiebings leather dye http://goo.gl/K59Ut. If someone can confirm this as the correct choice or point me in the right direction that would be great. Cheers, Benji.
  8. Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all c redit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
  9. Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all credit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
  10. Two more...one is "almost just like" the first two, the last is because the guy wanted two, and I thought I'd try out the new airbrush. Hey, he should have been more specific. The airbrushed one is actually my trophy wife's fave. Once again, the "club colors" of the VFW Warriors club are black and yellow... you guessed, right? The pic shows the nasty-a$$ed sheaths they knives came with, and my "new and improved" sheaths. Keeping in mind that the blades didn't really deserve any more than the aforementioned N-A sheaths shown.
  11. Anybody use the GREX GENESIS XGI3 airbrush on angelus direct? Curious about getting it. Wondering about reviews.
  12. Howdy y'all. I'd like to pick up a compressor and an airbrush. They will only be used for leatherwork. I live in a townhouse and will be using it outside, so I'd like the compressor to be quiet enough not to piss off the neighbors toooo badly. It also needs to be small enough to store in my second bedroom, which is also my office (with 2 desks), camping gear storage, sewing storage, and leather tool storage - so pretty cramped already. I'm looking for the best combination of price and quality. Here are the compressor available for me to pick up at stores here in town, ranked from least to most expensive: Harbor Freight 3gal 100PSI pancake compressor: $59.99 Harbor Freight 3gal 100PSI hotdog compressor: $59.99 Craftsman 3gal Oilless compressor: $69.99 Campbell Hausfeld 2gal Compressor: $71.24 Harbor Freight Airbrush Compressor Kit: $89.99 Craftsman 3gal Oil-lubed compressor: $119.99 Paasch D500SR: $119.99 (I'd be getting this from HobbyTown USA) Porter-Cable 3.5gal 135PSI Pancake compressor: $129 Craftsman 4gal 125 PSI pancake compressor: $139.99 Sparmax TC-501N: $173.99 (After 40% off coupon) Badger Cyclone: $207.99 (After coupon) Alternately, I could say "screw it" to all of these and order one online. I'm willing to do that if a much better deal is available, but I'd kinda like to pick it up today if possible so I can start learning how to use it on my extra day off tomorrow. My airbrush options are: Harbor Freight airbrush kit: $17.59 (After coupon) Badger Model 350: $47.99 (After coupon) Neo BCN Siphon-fed Dual Action Airbrush: $53.99 (After coupon) Paasch Single Action Airbrush Set: $59.99 (After coupon) Paasch Double Action Set: $77.99 (After coupon) Badger Model 155 Anthem: $143.99 (After coupon) Badger Patriot: $143.99 (After coupon) Again I could also just order a different one online if a much better deal is available. I really appreciate any suggestions!
  13. I bought an airbrush and wanted to try using it to spray on my finishes. The airbrush finishes great on dyed pieces, but when i try to use it on antiqued finishes, it causes the antique to pool together and make the project look permanently smudged and "dirty". I can't quite figure out what I'm doing to cause this as I have searched this forum and found that airbrushing an antiqued finish turns out quite nicely. Here are my steps: I tool my leather Let Dry Apply a coat of Tan Kote Let Dry Apply Sheridan Brown Antique paste made by Fiebing's. Let dry/set for a while. Buff Then apply another coat of Sheridan Brown Antique Paste made by Fiebing's Let dry/Set for a while (in the case of the picture, days) Buff Try the Spray finish with Eco Flo Professional Finish Clear Gloss It still turns out looking like this. it does the same for application with a brush. it causes it to look dirty and streak. Would love some pointers. Thank you.
  14. I am happy to be on this forum, plenty of excellent infos on leather works, i personnally paint and airbrush on leather apparel and i am crazy of this item, leather, soft and hot surface to paint any designs from hardrock themes to animals, flowers, portraits, stars, landscapes...i present to you some of my works, but notice that i paint any theme not only music ones!Alice Cooper has worn on stage one of my creations, a red leather vest. https://www.facebook.com/DanielleVergne
  15. I have been looking into buying an airbrush for applying finish to my products. Is an gravity fed airbrush or a siphon fed better for this? I know a lot of people on here are using them and was just wanting to get ideas on how everyone had theirs set up.
  16. Hey all, had a little issue today while experimenting with the airbrush. Well, 2 issues really. The big one though was at the end. I masked off the area I wanted to finish with masking tape, pressed the edges down firmly to get a good seal, but after spraying the finish on and taking the tape off I found quite a few areas of leakage, as you can see in the picture. So the first question is, what do you use for masking off? I was using regular white masking tape, is there something better I can use that won't leave behind any residue to prevent later dyework? Second point, as I'm sure you can see, is that I'm getting a fair bit of leakage under the stencil. This one was a metal stencil and looked to be good and flat against the leather but even so there's leaks and spots where there shouldn't be. I am sure some of this is due to my really cheap single action airbrush but even so, I'm getting this a lot. What pressure do you guys run your airbrushes at? I bought a regulator to control mine as the compressor didn't have a very good one and (from what I recall, I have to convert the reading to psi to understand my gauge) I run it at around 15-20 psi. The airbrush is a suction model I use for all dye applications these days - no more uneven finishes! - but stencils I'm having problems with. Do you use anything like a spray mount on them to keep them in place, or just hold them there? Any other tips for a newbie airbrusher? Many thanks Raven ps: I'm in Queensland, Australia and the dyes and finish I'm using come from here - http://www.leatherfinishingproducts.com.au/index.php/cobblestone/ - Cobblestone dyes. Fantastic product, much easier to use than the Eco-flo and dilute with spirits or water.
  17. I just bought my first real airbrush. I didn't go expensive and just got the Harbor Freight kit. I have been using the preval canned air to dye my leather until now. I have a question or two for those are you that are more experienced with them before I get busy learning how to use it. First, do you clean or rinse your airbrush between each color or just after every use? Second, I have ordered some of the airbrush cleaner from amazon because there is so much information out there on what to use, I felt a little overwhelmed. I am using oil based dyes, and resolene/water as my final finish. I am curious on what you all use to keep your airbrush clean. I've seen some people use things like denatured alcohol or windex, etc. I didn't want to start off on the wrong foot and mess something up. Thanks in advance for your time and any tips you can offer.
  18. Hi all, I just placed an order on turtlefeathers.net for a few Angelus dyes.... turns out I've ordered acrylic paints by mistake. I'm alright with that as I will be able to use them at some point but I am wondering if I will be able to cover them with Fiebing's USMC Black? I am going to be airbrushing flames into a wallet design and am planning on using a paint brush to do some detailed dying between the flames with the USMC Black. This will cover up the over-spray and give me a nice clean image (hopefully...). I just need to know if the dye will actually cover the acrylic or not. If it won't I'm going to place an order for the colored dyes with Springfield... As always, thanks for the help.
  19. Greetings, Been making knife sheaths for a while, but this was my first time to apply the dye using an airbrush. Heard a lot of folks talking about it being one of the best ways to get an even color and having seen the end result I agree. Sheath is for a 5" blade with 1" width near the hilt. Right hand cross draw with snap closure on flap. Brown trim with airbrushed Mahogany stain.
  20. I would like to get an airbrush, but I don't know a lot (or, well, anything) about airbrushing and I don't want to buy something that won't end up suiting my needs. Is it better to buy an all in one 'airbrush kit' complete with compressor, or is it better to buy things separate? What I'd like to do with it is apply all-over dyes and finishes as well as experiment with different techniques, like doing a gradient colour (example fading from red to black) - what kind of brushes do I need? Is it possible to get a decent machine (including compressor) for around $100-150, max $200? This is one that I'm possibly looking at - http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-3-5-Gravity-Dual-Action-AIRBRUSH-KIT-Tank-Air-Compressor-Hobby-Cake-Tattoo-/200894367286?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec63cc636 - does anyone have experience with this brand?
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