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Right then, never thought such a request would happen here, but seems it has. A regular customer of mine has bought an old John Deere tractor. He wants / needs a place to store a soft bound wee book. Seems there might have been one on the tractor previously, as there are two holes on the right hand rear fender. Regardless, he was not after anything stunning, but when he brought the tractor round the shop so I could do measurements, I mentioned doing it in John Deere green with yellow stitching. Aye, he was sold! I've been on experimenting to get the proper green, but cannae get there. I've been mixing Pro Dye green with yellow and with spirits to find the green, but no even close. A entirely different shade of green. Have any of you lot (especially Americans due to the amount of John Deere users in the USA) a mix ratio for the stunning green colour? Looking forward to the responses. Cheers! -
Hello, I have been looking for a way to add color to Fiebings Neutral Antique Paste Finish, but I don't want to use an acrylic paint to add the color. I want it to use Fiebings dye, but I don't know if it will mess with how the pastes acts. Any and all help is greatly apreceated! Thanks!
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Hi there, I am wondering if somebody could enlighten me on this subject. I bought Fiebings Antique Paste in NEUTRAL and can not figure out what is the purpose of this thing. It does not give any color, not even light tone or shade, it looks just like some finish. And do I need to put actual finish on top of this? So what do you guys use this neutral antique for? Thank you! Era -
Hi guys, I need some information from one of you serious experts who have been using Hermann Oak leather and Fiebings Dye for longer than I have. Recently over the course of the last couple of weeks I have gotten four hides of H.O. leather, in various thicknesses. I’m using a fiebings Turquoise alcohol die, and it seems to work on every leather except the Herman Oak. It does not come out even slightly bluish, it comes out brownish green. Nothing even close to the color it should. Or the color it has come out in many hides past. The leather on the left is Herman Oak, the leather on the right is some Weaver Select. Someone please tell me why, before I go broke buying Leather I can’t use. -
Materials used: Fiebing's Resolene Fiebing's dark brown leather dye Acetone in the form of nail polish remover Mink oil Basically the problem I have comes from every time I need to apply resolene to my project; they keep turning yellow. They started off as white, lambskin loafers. I used acetone to deglaze, and after used a wool dauber to apply the dye. I let it sit overnight for 10+ hours, buffed it with mink oil to remove any sitting dye, and then proceeded to apply resolene as lightly as possible with a clean wool dauber. At first, it went on like it always does when applying it to a project. It would turn a bit yellow, but it never affected the underlying dye. Then after maybe 5 or so seconds, the dye underneath started turning a sick yellow/green color. This process has been repeated with the same results maybe 5+ times. I understand that airbrushing would give a better result, but even putting a drop of resolene on top of the shoe seems to pull out the dye and turn it yellow. So even if I avoid any "rubbing" motion on the leather, the resolene still reacts poorly. At one point I applied two coats of dye, and let sit for 24 hours. Still bad results. Is this a leather problem or a product problem? I have since purchased Angelus sealant and will try that today, but I don't want to keep trying if the leather requires a different type of dye. Right now the dyes I am using are alcohol-based. Would labskin take oil based better? I will try to take some pictures later today when I get home. Edit: I added an example of a picture I had taken already of the resolene applied to a small part of the shoe -
I'm fairly new to leathercraft and one topic that I still have so many questions on is dyeing and treating leather. There's just so much stuff out there and everyone does it all differently. Now, I understand that a lot of it comes to experience and mostly personal preference, but I'd love to hear some tips/ opinions here on a few matters: 1) I currently dye using Fiebing's Leather Dye. I diluted the stuff with spirits since I found that without diluting, the colors are too intense. Whatever type of brown I used would all turn out dark brown for example, and my blue was getting too close to black for my taste too. So, I diluted the stuff. Works kinda.. I know the alcohol makes leather stiff and I'm really considering switching to Fiebing's pro dye. I've heard that this doesn't make your leather stiff although I've also read otherwise. Anyway, in the case of leather dye.. what can I do to prevent this terrible stiffness? Should I do something after dyeing, before, or both? Tips and tricks are very much welcome. 2) I've read quite a lot on this forum about Neatsfoot oil. I've read people use it to treat leather before dyeing and maybe after, I'm not sure. However in many video's I've watched here and there I've never really seen anyone use neatsfoot oil. So I'm curious, does it really help to add this before dyeing, for example? I've owned a bottle once and all I can remember from it is that I thought it smelled really bad.. I really hope someone can share their tips/tricks/opinions/knowledge on these matters. Cheers, Iris -
I am new to leathercraft. I started buying mostly Tandy products. I started using their water-based dyes but very quickly became dissatisfied with the streaky results. I made the decision to go all in and switch to Fiebings Pro (oil) dye. I ordered a small container of every color they have. I know that it uses an alcohol carrier. I did order several containers of the dye reducer. My questions: 1) What is the best agent to use for cleanup whether it be hands or work surfaces? 2) I prefer to spray whenever possible. Does this need to be diluted to go through an airbrush. If so, what is the best ratio? Is there any other readily available substance that can be used to reduce this such as rubbing alcohol? 3) I always pretreated leather with Neatsfoot oil to aid in dye absorption. Is this necessary with this product? 4) How long does it take to dry and how long should you wait before you begin other work on the leather? Thanks all -
I'm fairly new to the art but feel as though I am picking it up relatively quickly. One of my only gripes is that without buying every single bottle of Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye and creating my own swatch, I will never know the difference between light brown and saddle tan (which if anyone of you have looked at Fiebing's color chart will clearly see what I mean) (enclosed below) My question is, does anyone out there have all the oil dyes to create nice, evenly layered swatches (that I could obviously purchase from you) orrr, would anyone be interested in obtaining something like this? I know for some, obtaining every color isn't a big deal (considering you can pick up a 4oz bottle for $7.00 on eBay) but for me, spending $112 buying them all in order to determine which colors I would like to keep is far from reality for this poor college student. Anyways, as always, I'd love your guys' input. Or help. Whatever you can lend me! Thanks Trey -
Hello, Went to a store today that had really nice wallet edges that were painted with an alcohol or oil dye instead of edge paint. They looked really good so I want to try to replicate it. Does anyone have any recommendations, maybe Fiebings, for a dye to use on edges? I'm really confused about the difference between alcohol/oil as well as this pro dye Fiebings has. Also, how do I seal the leather after it is all done? Resolene? Are there any other products? Is Tokonole the same? So confused... Regards, Sam
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Anyone have experience using Fiebing's Pro Resist and can you cut it with water to apply with an air brush like Resolene? It's seem very thinck to apply it as supplied form. Thanks. -
Dear leatherworkers, I'm fairly new to leatherworking and it's a hobby to me. I love the effect of Fiebings Antique Finish and I have two small pots of it: The "tan" and "medium brown" colours. I've already learned through some trial and error and browsing online that you're supposed to put a lot of the stuff on and then wipe it off. I noticed it kind of 'seals' the leather. Once the first amount is on, you can put on as much as you want after and it doesn't make a difference. The leather won't take more of it. And so I've learned to use a dauber to put plenty on in a circular motion and then wipe it off. When I do this with the 'tan' colour, it works fine. I get a really smooth one-colour result. Some small imperfections of course, but I'm satisfied. Now with the "medium brown" I just don't seem to be able to get this result and it is driving me crazy. Every motion I made with the dauber is visible. I kind of looks like clouds, which is not what I intend. What am I doing wrong?? Please help . I've added a picture to shown the effect I'm talking about. Don't mind the dyed part around the cut-out in the piece, that's from another project ;). Kind regards, Iris
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Hello I'm wondering if anyone has successfully used Acrylic Resolene on top of Tan Kote. The reason I'm asking is that, after I apply a 50/50(resolene water) coat on top of my tooled and dyed test project (dyed using fiebings spirit dyes), and then apply fiebings antique paste, allow to dry thoroughly, buff, and add a sealing layer of 50/50 resolene, it lifts quite a bit of the antique. I've done some research and have found that to be common, and many suggest using neatlac and tan kote combinations etc. But I'm a creature of habit and acrylic resolene has treated me well over the years with spirit dyes, I know how it ages, it's limits etc, and I'm hesitant to change my top finish, thus I'm wondering if anyone has used tan kote to seal the antique(recommended in many topics regarding antiquing here) in combination with resolene. Of course I will be experimenting, but it can be hard to know if something works well down the road, like the finish lifting or cracking, it may look good now and for a few months but I worry about such a combination failing Cheers! -Cheyenne
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I tried to search for this but only found one thing that wasn't really related. I was almost complete on making a simple wallet and dyed it red on the inside where the money and cards go and mahogany on the outside and then sealed it with beeswax/NFO. I noticed that I could see some of the red had bled through to the exterior giving the mahogany a pinkish hue. I then dyed the exterior mahogany again and it has dried with that metallic green tinge to it. Does anyone know why and what causes this to avoid it for the future and also if the piece can be salvaged now? I dyed the inside mahogany too. If I could get rid of the green it'd probably be fine but rubbing/buffing it only seems to polish the green! Ha! Anyone seen this before and know why and what to do about it? Thanks! -
Must be pretty new?? .... never seen it before, but thought I better try it. Just send PayPal for your subscription and I'll be glad to clue you in. Nah.. I'm jus' playin' Looks to be somewhere between dark brown and the chocolate - at least by the picture on teh bottle. I'll post something once I get the chance to use it... -
First of all, Im new to leather working. Been doing smaller things for a year or so. Recently i have interested myself into dying and finishes. Ive been trying out various spirit based dyes and right now my favorite is the Fiebings Professional Oil Dye. I get great results with this dye and it penetrates the leather well. However i recently acquired a natural colored leather side 1,5mm thickness. It seems to have a light finish applied to it. Ive tried to dye this leather but the color only penetrates a very little amount. By very little i mean that a nail scratch penetrates the color and the natural color is exposed. Ive tried removing the finish with both denatured alcohol and aceton, same result. Ive even tried sanded the leather with 240 grit still bad color penetrating. So obviously something is stopping the dye to soak in. Could the fibers on top be compressed in anyway? I want to learn why it is behaving this way regardless if it can be fixed or not. Ive tried dip dying still bad results. Color penetrates flesh side very well but stops when reaching "grain side layer" Appriciate any help! -
Hey guys! I don't know if this has already been a topic. Has anyone compared Fiebing's Low VOC vs. their pro dye? I KNOW pro is the best! but here in Cali. its getting harder to get the pro dye. Just wondering if anyone has experienced the pros and cons when compared? Other than the harmful fumes of course. I guess I am asking performance wise. thank you all! -
Hi all, I'm new here and new to working with veg tanned leather. I'm making some experiment with a piece of hide I was given, which means I don't know it's provenance, nor if it was treated with something previously. I have been doing some dye tests on it, and they look good. However, when I use Fiebings dye prep it seems to stain the leather somehow. Does anyone know why this might be? Please see images. I managed to spill some of the dye prep, which is what caused the largish splodge in the centre and also it drip down the bottle which I place on the leather and caused that dark square stain (yes, I know, VERY shoddy behaviour!) However, the more even staining is just caused by my wiping the dye prep over the hide with a cloth. I tried to find some Oxalic acid to clean with that, but failed (in the UK in my town). I'm back in the Netherlands so will look there for some. Many thanks in advance for any help. Simeon
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I have been making some black leather straps for several months now and I first used fiebing black dye, but the last few I used fiebings black oil dye because I have read that it is better. I admit that it seemed to go a lot further than the regular black dye but now that the product is finished it seems to me that the regular dye produces a much richer and blacker color. Has anyone else noticed this also? -
For the most part over the years I have stuck with traditional fiebings spirit dyes such as browns, tans, blacks, etc, and I do love them. I've always been wary of doing whole pieces or even accenting with color dyes such as greens, blues, purples, etc. In the past year I've done a few whole pieces as well as accenting with green, blue and other fiebings dyes of the brighter color spectrum (I've had no trouble with the reds) and have noticed a year down the road they fade and often change color terribly and that's with minimal direct sunlight. I was wondering if any of you experienced leather workers had any advice on using colored dyes as I am getting more requests for such brighter colored work, but I do not want to do so worrying about severe fading/discoloration down the road. I have only used fiebings, but I am certainly open to other brands. Don't get me wrong, I do love fiebings traditional color spirit dyes and they have worked well for me over the years, it is just the brighter spectrum I have trouble with, save for the reds. I have no interest in eco flo dyes or any water based dyes. Thank you kindly in advance, -Cheyenne W
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Please help! I'm making a tooled leather journal. I'll be dying the tooled areas with Fiebings British Tan spirit dye, and the rest I'm dying with Fiebings medium brown spirit dye. I'd like the tooled letters to stand out more (since the British Tan is a nice reddish color, but the letters don't stand out as noticeable as I'd like). I've read SO much about Fiebings Hi Liter and antique finish, but nothing tells me whether I can effectively use them in conjunction with a spirit-based dye of a different color. For example, if I wanted to have the same "hi-lited" effect with a green spirit dye in a future project. Would either the Hi Liter or Antique Finish work for what I need? I REALLY appreciate your help- I'm only 3 weeks away from deadline (I'm making this journal to raise money in a fundraiser event). Thanks in advance. -
Hi all, I have a quick question about finishing leather. I am a bit confused by the plethora of products out there! I bought some Fiebings Bag Kote but I got the impression that this just coats the leather rather than nourishes it. So, I bought some Dubbin. On a finished piece, I ended up putting on the Bag Kote, and then liberal use of the Dubbin, before a quick polish with a rag. Do these 2 products work in tandem, or are they cancelling each other out? What do you guys use to feed a leather (hand dyed) and then give it a shine? Many thanks!
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Hello, I have a dilemma. I am looking for a good brown to dark brown dye. I used fiebings pro oil dyes in the past with good results, but I do not like how toxic they are, and won't be using them. I looked into Tandy's Eco-Flo dyes, and in doing research, I found a leatherworker.net thread with a bunch of people talking about how they had ruined projects by the dye turning a greenish color, and I don't want to chance that. I actually spent a lot of time and effort brewing a batch of black walnut dye a few weeks ago, and I am not at all happy with the results. It takes WAY too many applications to get to dark brown, and WAY too much time (oiling, then waiting for it to dry, applying the dye, and waiting for it to dry, repeat). I have tried multiple ways of dying the leather with the black walnut dye, only to get disappointing results. Long story short, I would like a brown/dark brown low VOC leather dye that is not fiebings pro oil dye, or tandy Eco-Flo. Any suggestions? Thanks! Zayne -
Will Resolene work as a resist for Fiebing's Antique Paste? How about Ecoflo SuperShene? -
Hi Guys I am recently having a problem that drives me insane. I dip dye all my stuff with Fiebings Pro Oil Dye that is diluted with denatured alcohol to 40% - 65% of the original strength. This usually works great. But i when i dye thin (around 3 oz) vegtan, it sometimes looks like this (see image). funnily enough, i have never had this problem with the exact same leather in 5 oz or above. Any ideas what the problem is? -
Hi Folks, I got a problem with fiebings prof. oil dye "Royal blue". I used it before, applied it normaly with a dampened sponge and covered it with Resolene, which I applied with a sponge, too. The problem ist, that it turned into a purple at some points, I think the resolene may take of some colour and this purple stuff just stays. At that point I recolored the piece and bought some aerosol-sprayer to apply the resolene. In a way it worked, but the spraydust wasn´t fine enough, so i got some points where the resolene got too thick (thinned it 1:1, tried to apply just a light coat so it would be covered) and there were some drop-like points where it (the resolene?) turned into some kind of red. In addition even this "light coat" was too thick, so the leather looks more like plastic. So I turned back to the non-spraying method. Thinned it too, let the colour sit for about 24 hours, buffed the leather like hell before applying and did the job with a sponge and with a cloth (tried both things out), and ...tadaa.... purple again. I don´t know what to do. Right now I neither have the space nor the money to buy an airbrush-set and I think there should be a method to apply resolene without ruining the whole dye-job. Can anybody help me with that? Greetings Sona
