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Posted (edited)

This thread should be gold for those that come after.

A couple small ones to start. How often do we need to find the center to place a tag or line up stitching? I might be slow on the uptake because I've only just stumbled across these centering rulers. One is stuck to the bench and the other is a plastic ruler that is see through with a metal edge for cutting.

Centre rule.jpg

This next one I've ordered but not here till tomorrow. I needed one of these the other day and didn't have one so like a lot of things I improvised.

Flexible Ruler 16 Inch 40cm Curve Ruler for Engineering Drawing, Design Graphics | eBay

More to follow.

Edited by toxo
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Posted
1 hour ago, toxo said:

This thread should be gold for those that come after.

A couple small ones to start. How often do we need to find the center to place a tag or line up stitching? I might be slow on the uptake because I've only just stumbled across these centering rulers. One is stuck to the bench and the other is a plastic ruler that is see through with a metal edge for cutting.

Centre rule.jpg

This next one I've ordered but not here till tomorrow. I needed one of these the other day and didn't have one so like a lot of things I improvised.

Flexible Ruler 16 Inch 40cm Curve Ruler for Engineering Drawing, Design Graphics | eBay

More to follow.

I don’t understand how folks even attempt something without the center finding rulers. I still use the same ones I ordered from Dick Blick art supplies in 94. Definitely one of the first mandatory items needed in the tool box. Work off the center for everything, you can’t go wrong. 

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Posted

As a carpenter, I found center for 40 years without one. I have one now, and use it occasionally. But I never found it essential.

Posted
50 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

As a carpenter, I found center for 40 years without one. I have one now, and use it occasionally. But I never found it essential.

Well that's the point isn't it. We can all find the center but these gadgets just make it easier and maybe quicker.

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Posted

I use round jawed jewelry pliers when I had sew.  Because of injuries I don't have the hand strength I should so I have found that the spring loaded pliers make all the difference for me.  Flat jawed needle nose pliers will work, but you need to careful using them.  You have to grab the needle along the length, not across.  And if you use regular needle nose pliers, you can damage the needle surface.  The round jaw pliers aren't expensive and having them spring loaded cuts down on hand movements.

Until the VA sorts out what's wrong with my shoulder, I am using a 1 ton arbor press instead of a maul to punch holes or use a stitching iron.  I would have liked to be able to have a 3 ton for the space between the back and the ram, but its too large for my shop  and its too heavy for me to move by myself right now.  I have two magnetic based LED sewing lights on each side to make it easier to see what I'm doing.  They make all the difference in the world in eliminating shadows so I can see.

Pliers.jpg

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Aven said:

I use round jawed jewelry pliers when I had sew.  Because of injuries I don't have the hand strength I should so I have found that the spring loaded pliers make all the difference for me.  Flat jawed needle nose pliers will work, but you need to careful using them.  You have to grab the needle along the length, not across.  And if you use regular needle nose pliers, you can damage the needle surface.  The round jaw pliers aren't expensive and having them spring loaded cuts down on hand movements.

Until the VA sorts out what's wrong with my shoulder, I am using a 1 ton arbor press instead of a maul to punch holes or use a stitching iron.  I would have liked to be able to have a 3 ton for the space between the back and the ram, but its too large for my shop  and its too heavy for me to move by myself right now.  I have two magnetic based LED sewing lights on each side to make it easier to see what I'm doing.  They make all the difference in the world in eliminating shadows so I can see.

Pliers.jpg

I use these they are cheap also. There are more expensive versions but why spend more than you need to. They are smooth jawed also.

https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/flat-nose-pliers/6306971000.html 

https://www.maunindustries.com/smooth-jaws-flat-nose-parallel-plier-140-mm/ Expensive but like the idea you can hide the needle in them less chance of an accident.

 

Edited by jcuk
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Posted

I have a pair of parallel-jaw pliers that I used when I worked as a technician, they are excellent for grabbing the needle when hand-sewing and don't mark/damage the needle.

Posted (edited)

Here's a little gadget that I use for cutting circles. It's plastic but if handled gently will do the job. I've had this one for at least two years and I love it. If you don't want the hole a small piece of leather stuck in the center with double sided tape will do the trick.

circle cutter.jpg

Here's a small video.

 

Edited by toxo
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Posted

Well.... a bit prosaic - but this was a game changer for me in an apartment - no banging. Everything from the die cutters to punching for belts to corners. 

20240131_205946.jpg

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Posted
12 hours ago, toxo said:

I might be slow on the uptake because I've only just stumbled across these centering rulers.

Faster than me! I have a clear one as well - but literally never though to use it for centering - duh! Now it opens things up quite a bit. I can and most likely will do some old school... measure 10,000 times - cut once - but this is a great tip. Thanks!

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Posted

It seems we favour pliers

I use these very long ones for where I can't get my fingers. i.e. inside dice cups, these pliers are used to pull the needle through. I have two other pairs but they just not as long but very nearly

Pliers, 01LWs.jpg

Its not often I can't pull a needle through but when I can't I use these pliers. They are also used when I'm putting flat lace on the lacing needle, they are used to press the lace down onto the prongs without damaging the prongs 

Pliers, 02LWs.jpg

A piece of cork used when I'm making a hole with an awl. Its used to back up and support the leather so the awl goes into it, not my fingers (!)

big cork, 01LWs.jpg

 

Small pieces of cork with mapping pins. I use these to hold parts together whilst I sew them up

small corks, 01LWs.jpg

I wouldn't be without my anvil. Used as its supposed to be for hammering and shaping things, eg setting ready-rivets but its also a good weight to put on pieces glued up

Anvil, 01LWs.jpg

 

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Posted
12 hours ago, fredk said:

A piece of cork used when I'm making a hole with an awl. Its used to back up and support the leather so the awl goes into it, not my fingers (!)

I have my friends that drink wine (nasty stuff, never touch it myself) save the corks for just that purpose.

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Posted
19 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

I have my friends that drink wine (nasty stuff, never touch it myself) save the corks for just that purpose.

I picked up that idea from you and have found it most helpful indeed.  I got an obnoxious cut on my finger from a dull awl that punched through the second layer of a piece rather violently, when I didn't use the cork.  THAT taught me to use the cork religiously.

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Posted
On 5/1/2024 at 7:39 AM, tsunkasapa said:

I have my friends that drink wine (nasty stuff, never touch it myself) save the corks for just that purpose.

Personally, I use a Champagne cork.  The bigger knob on the one end is easier to hold on to.

    /dwight

Posted

Wasgoinon? You're all supposed to be using blunt harness needles?

Posted
Just now, dikman said:

It's the AWL, toxo, the AWL that does the damage (blunt awls don't work so well).

You're probably speed-reading again.;)

LOL. Probably. Mind you, that is a different world to me having hole punches, stitching chisels and a lot of hammers and three sewing machines. I think the awl thing got old with bags having a lot more holes than a holster.

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Posted
On 4/30/2024 at 11:16 PM, tsunkasapa said:

As a carpenter, I found center for 40 years without one. I have one now, and use it occasionally. But I never found it essential.

I just use a ruler and a calculator to find the centre . Measure the item to be laced or stitched and divide by 2  and work out what markings I need from that :)

HS

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Posted

Sometimes when setting double cap rivets, the leather is pushing back, so I inserted a rivet setter into a file handle. Then I can use the tool to push the rivet down until the cap clicks in place before I use another rivet setter to actually set the rivet.

IMG_7616.jpeg

IMG_7617.jpeg

IMG_7618.jpeg

  • CFM
Posted
1 hour ago, JLDetroit said:

Sometimes when setting double cap rivets, the leather is pushing back, so I inserted a rivet setter into a file handle. Then I can use the tool to push the rivet down until the cap clicks in place before I use another rivet setter to actually set the rivet.

IMG_7616.jpeg

IMG_7617.jpeg

IMG_7618.jpeg

Awesome idea!   a guy could set that in a handle you could whack with a mallet then you wouldn't need two.

Posted

I think I've posted this before but I have to do it again under this banner of making things easier. I debated whether to post it in the beveller post but I think it's way more than just a burnisher. In this video I've replaced one of the belts with felt. It was a half-arsed effort but done properly I think it would be awesome. Note that this is real time with just water as against spending hours at it. The green compound is'nt right for this but this awesome for stropping blades. Please bear in mind I'm no videographer.

 

  • Contributing Member
Posted

More from me

Forget your poundo board or pieces of scrap leather; make yourself a big wax block. When stitching chisels go though the leather and into the wax they automatically get 'lubed'. After a session some heat will melt the wax and give a good surface for the next time

tray of  wax, 01KLWs.jpg

And to help pull those chisels out of the leather

chisel pull support, 01LWs.jpg

and to mark the stitching line I'd be lost without my Tandy pens - I have many of them

Tandy pen, 01LWs.jpg

I have several lead weights, for use when gluing up large areas, holding large pieces of leather on the cutting table whilst measuring up and cutting. . . . 

I really must do something with them. I have a couple of 1 kg barbell weights as well

lead weights, 01LWs.jpg

and my TandyPro Press. I'd be scunnered without it. Used for die cutting, 3D stamping et cetera.  I keep the supplied base plate off and use some pieces of delrin or nylon . . . .

Tandy press, 01LWs.jpg

 

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