Bobbin holder case

[RockyAussie]

Not sure if this would be best in the 3D printer section or here but I thought I would share this bobbin rack case that I made up today. I have attached a stl file so it can be printed out if you like. I used a 20% fill with .8mm shell thickness settings on the printer. It uses 108 grams of filament at that and in Oz that's about $4.00 worth. It holds 49 bobbins and the L is 172mm x 125 W. The hole size for a bobbin is 12x23mm.

BOBBIN CARRIER.stl

2mm thick base

The hatch area is the gap area needed between bobbins to get your fingers onto each side of the bobbin to remove and replace easily.

Works good .....I think I'll make one for the big Cowboy ones next. Am working on a snap together zip installation guide at the moment which all going well I will finish this week end.

Cheers Brian

[gigi]

Very well done with the spacing to allow removing the bobbins!  Maybe can add a magnetic plate underneath the box to hold them in place when you accidentally flip over the case?

One more design idea (Constabulary's idea) with a magnetic tool holder on the bottom:

Edited August 15, 2018 by gigi

[dikman]

Nice! Thanks for posting this Brian. While it probably should go in the 3D section I think things like this should be in here too as I'm sure that many who might be interested won't think to look there.

Please feel free to post any designs to do with sewing machines, more to add to my (growing) collection of possibly useful files.

Only problem with that one gigi is that I have some bobbins that are aluminium! (But it would be simple to make).

[alpha2]

I was excited about the magnetic strip idea until I also realized that all of my bobbins are aluminum! Why hasn't someone invented an aluminum magnet yet?

Jeff

[DrmCa]

ABS or PLA and how do you prevent warpage?

[JLSleather]

I haven't yet done it, but I will 

For the 'clones', I like the idea of a simple piece of wood.  If my drill press hadn't pooped I'd be done   Few things to get organized around here, and then I'll put one up.

I suppose the 'trendy' thing to do is to post all over social poo trying to bilk leather workers into buying yet another item, or plans for an item. But maybe I'll just post a pic and a tip, and you can do what you like.  Note you will need:

• something to drill with (hand drill might be easiest)
• small twist drills, 1/8" and 11/64"
• 1" spade bit (you could do with a 15/16" if thats what you happen to have)
• ruler and pencil
• block of wood, size dependent on number of bobbins retained
• couple of #8 screws x 1" (or 1 1/4")

Edited August 15, 2018 by JLSleather

[JLSleather]

3 hours ago, alpha2 said:

I was excited about the magnetic strip idea until I also realized that all of my bobbins are aluminum! Why hasn't someone invented an aluminum magnet yet?

Jeff

I wondered if anybody was going to point that out.

[Ed in Tx]

Brian,

Great idea and very well done. Since your doing it with a 3-D printer you could add a hinge and cover for it. I know if it was me I would end up knocking it over and have thread trails across the floor. 

[RockyAussie]

30 minutes ago, Ed in Tx said:

Brian,

Great idea and very well done. Since your doing it with a 3-D printer you could add a hinge and cover for it. I know if it was me I would end up knocking it over and have thread trails across the floor. 

I thought about a lid but to be honest the cylinder machine that it will live with gets use every day and changing bobbins happens a lot so I thought it would just be a waste of time. with its flat base I don't think knocking it over is going to happen but I guess it could be stuck in place with double sided tape or something.

 

7 hours ago, DrmCa said:

ABS or PLA and how do you prevent warpage?

Pla and a heated bed run at 65 degrees C. The plate is cleaned well with Isopropyl alcohol before every new print.

10 hours ago, gigi said:

Very well done with the spacing to allow removing the bobbins!  Maybe can add a magnetic plate underneath the box to hold them in place when you accidentally flip over the case?

One more design idea (Constabulary's idea) with a magnetic tool holder on the bottom:

Constabulary's idea looks good but I don't think the magnets should be needed at least if the 2 ends were blocked off. Might be a bit easier to knock over and lose them though.

 

11 hours ago, dikman said:

Nice! Thanks for posting this Brian. While it probably should go in the 3D section I think things like this should be in here too as I'm sure that many who might be interested won't think to look there.

Yes ...that was my thinking as well and I suppose it should be there as well perhaps as a link or something.

[Constabulary]

19 hours ago, gigi said:

Very well done with the spacing to allow removing the bobbins!  Maybe can add a magnetic plate underneath the box to hold them in place when you accidentally flip over the case?

One more design idea (Constabulary's idea) with a magnetic tool holder on the bottom:

Not my design - just a DIY I did. The original afaik is from GRABOBBIN. So far I found no better bobbin holder than the magnetic ones. I soon want to make some for different size bobbins as for 132K´s, 29K´s, 45K´s and the like but need some larger router bits... But thats off topic here.

Edited August 16, 2018 by Constabulary

[JLSleather]

On 8/15/2018 at 10:33 AM, JLSleather said:

I haven't yet done it, but I will 

For the 'clones', I like the idea of a simple piece of wood.  If my drill press hadn't pooped I'd be done   Few things to get organized around here, and then I'll put one up.

I suppose the 'trendy' thing to do is to post all over social poo trying to bilk leather workers into buying yet another item, or plans for an item. But maybe I'll just post a pic and a tip, and you can do what you like.  Note you will need:

• something to drill with (hand drill might be easiest)
• small twist drills, 1/8" and 11/64"
• 1" spade bit (you could do with a 15/16" if thats what you happen to have)
• ruler and pencil
• block of wood, size dependent on number of bobbins retained
• couple of #8 screws x 1" (or 1 1/4")

SO if a fella had a chunk o wood layin' out back the barn, could drill holes through the block spaced a bit like this.  Then chase them same holes with a spade bit (yeah, I know -- somebody wanna git fancy and cut it out with an end mill on a cnc mill.. fine, whatever) 1.1" deep (or 1.250 deep, with a "thumb hole" on the sides of the holes).

 

 

Which gonna look a bit like this (go ahead, somebody with all that 3d rendering stuff make a purdy pic  )

#8 screw through the two end holes into the machine table to hang it, put the bobbins in and they don't unwind (no tape, no knot, no dust collection...)

[DrmCa]

23 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Pla and a heated bed run at 65 degrees C. The plate is cleaned well with Isopropyl alcohol before every new print.

I gotta try that! Last time I printed something flat and sizeable, it warped like crazy (it was a base for a monitor stand).

Maybe that is just the cheaper filament I bought (produces off-white product, kind of milk color, where previously I used white filament which produced white products).

[RockyAussie]

4 minutes ago, DrmCa said:

I gotta try that! Last time I printed something flat and sizeable, it warped like crazy (it was a base for a monitor stand).

Maybe that is just the cheaper filament I bought (produces off-white product, kind of milk color, where previously I used white filament which produced white products).

Filament quality and even different colours can give a lot of variable results so I tend to do mostly work with this silver colour and run it on the hot side. Keeping the room warm can help a lot with that also. I'd like a large Perspex box over the top but that's just another on the gotta do list.

[RockyAussie]

17 hours ago, JLSleather said:

SO if a fella had a chunk o wood layin' out back the barn, could drill holes through the block spaced a bit like this.  Then chase them same holes with a spade bit (yeah, I know -- somebody wanna git fancy and cut it out with an end mill on a cnc mill.. fine, whatever) 1.1" deep (or 1.250 deep, with a "thumb hole" on the sides of the holes).

 

 

Which gonna look a bit like this (go ahead, somebody with all that 3d rendering stuff make a purdy pic  )

#8 screw through the two end holes into the machine table to hang it, put the bobbins in and they don't unwind (no tape, no knot, no dust collection...)

Hey Jeff ...you know that's off topic now in this forum? You gonna get us kicked back into the sewing machine section again as there is no wood work section that I've seen yet.. I been thinking about your drawing and the only thing that bothers me is the lack of seeing the colour clearly of me bobbins and with my bad shi memory I would not know where the hell I put that colour unless I painted beside the top or something like that. You being into holsters and guns and stuff I came up with this idea I have called Jeff's Bobbin Revolver   The pic on the left shows both pieces assembled and able to revolve and the pic on the right ...blah blah.

This pdf file below should open in a 3d way if you click on the picture when it opens. Unfortunately there is some little triangle thing you can see that I have to work out to remove maybe. I will give it a trial print tomorrow and let you know how it goes. I would have done it today but the printers been busy doing the new click together zip line up guide and more dam ring boxes. I'll post the zip stuff tomorrow as well in the sewing machine section first. They'll move it for me probably

Jeffs Bobbin Revolver1.pdf

Brian

[Bert51]

Their is some really clever people on this forum, Wow, what you come up with is brilliant.

Thanks, I love it.

[DrmCa]

Do you guys upload your creations to thingiverse at all? That's a great place, as they have advanced interactive preview with 3d, and pretty good UI. I just started using it in my other line of business https://www.thingiverse.com/VintageElectronicsInc/designs and found it so easy to use.

[JLSleather]

4 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Hey Jeff ...you know that's off topic now in this forum? You gonna get us kicked back into the sewing machine section again

I aint fixina make wunna those, but that was priceless -- nice work up get the attitude flowing to hit the gym this morning!   Despite the pixelation, that was certainly hi-res enough for this conversation! 

That looks quite a bit like a thingie I had years back for POKER CHIPS,  though I suppose back then it was injection molded (?).  You have a point also about the view -- maybe transparent (or at least translucent) is good.  The "gun 'n' holster boys might just buy that if you make it horizontal and make it "drop out" like a wheel gun cylinder ... 

Maybe that aint cost effective, though.  But I'm purdy sure you folks got driftwood up there on the north beach.. maybe could pick up a chunk while up there rasslin' them crocs for the next project?@!

Gotta stretch the bones .... 'preciate the talk!

[dikman]

Brian, I really like that design, being a wheel gun shooter! If you create the .stl file I'll just HAVE to make one!!

I'm beginning to think your talents are wasted on leatherwork.

[RockyAussie]

On 18/08/2018 at 8:25 AM, dikman said:

Brian, I really like that design, being a wheel gun shooter! If you create the .stl file I'll just HAVE to make one!!

I'm beginning to think your talents are wasted on leatherwork.

Thanks for that ......I think?? . Here is the results of the print out below. Note I mentioned there was a triangle thing hanging out which I was worried about, well I ignored it and it worked out alright. Those that are good at cleaning up this stuff please feel free to do so. I don't generally get these when I draw up and can'r remember the steps to get rid of it. It was faster for me to scape it off with a sharp knife. Clean up time on both pieces was about 1 minute if that.

This first picture is as the stl files will give you without alterations and with bobbins installed ready to shoot.

It works and spins well and the bobbins are easy enough to get out. I had a failure on my first print which for some reason the stepper motor on rare occasions jumps or misses a step and every thing thereafter keeps printing above on the wrong line. This next pic was that print and it failed about 10mm up Z. As the fill was set at 30% I changed the next 1 to 20% and slowed the print speed a little.

Here I dropped the first print beside the new one once it was passed the same fail point and relaxed again.

This pic shows how bad that triangle spike printed out. Not so bad.

When things stuff up I sometimes think there's a reason and I think the failed print made me think of a top cover and I kind of like it and as well it shows if you print the axle piece longer you could place another on top if you wanted. This makes it easier to handle as well. If you are using the Curra program you can unlock the padlock in the scale section and just increase the Z height to make it as high as you want it. I had one off a different project and used it instead and that is why the top hole is not showing in this example.

Showing the double up idea.

Keep in mind that if you do the same scale trick in Curra to the Z height you could shorten the revolver part to make a better lid as well.

As I said this can make the handling and revolving quite nice.

Lastly now here are the stl files.

Jeffs Bobbin Revolver1.stl

Jeffs Bobbin Revolver2.stl

Please post your results and versions here as well.

Woops nearly forgot here a link to another progect you may find useful.

Brian

 

[garypl]

Brian, this technology is amazing.  How do you go about learning how to make stuff like this?  Seems to me you have to be a computer programmer to actually create the file?

Thanks again for taking the time to document what you are doing and the great pics!

Gary

[Bert51]

Brian, looks like you have designed them to be stacked, better then chucked in a small box like mine.

[RockyAussie]

11 hours ago, garypl said:

Brian, this technology is amazing.  How do you go about learning how to make stuff like this?  Seems to me you have to be a computer programmer to actually create the file?

Thanks again for taking the time to document what you are doing and the great pics!

Gary

Hi Garry, I learnt how to draw up my patterns in Auto cad many years ago and did not know it even did 3D stuff. At first it was a mind bender but really its not that hard when you get used to it. I am by no means a techi type and I tackle most of this in my own very simple way of doing things. Mostly its sort of taking your 2D drawing say a box, and combining it into 1  polyline that is connected all the way around and then raising it (extruding) to whatever height I want. If I want holes in it I make a circle ...extrude it ...put it into the now cube and then you subtract it. Bingo there is now a hole in the cube.  Main rule is to put a handle like a line hanging out an inch and another handle off of it going up (Z direction)an inch and make sure you keep copying these along with new changes. This makes it easier to see and give an easy line up location when you put some thing new into the drawing. Lesson Over

Brian

10 hours ago, Bert51 said:

Brian, looks like you have designed them to be stacked, better then chucked in a small box like mine.

Yes I'm quite happy with it. It takes up very little space next to the bobbin winder and is handy. Plenty of room for various arrangements to be made. I even considered a bigger lazy Susan style that could have 4 or more of them from a central point but....to me clarity in design is 100 shades of grey turning into 10 shades of colour.

[dikman]

I like it!! Only one slight problem (for me) - I don't use those long bobbins. What's the diameter of the holes, just wondering if my Singer/Pfaff bobbins will fit?

[RockyAussie]

8 minutes ago, dikman said:

I like it!! Only one slight problem (for me) - I don't use those long bobbins. What's the diameter of the holes, just wondering if my Singer/Pfaff bobbins will fit?

The diameter of the holes is 25mm but you should be able to scale it down in Curra or whatever program when converting the stl to the G code. I will try and get an stl file made for the smaller bobbins sometime this week if you like as I think I like that idea somewhat myself. 

[dikman]

That would be good and might suit a wider audience. The Singer/Pfaff bobbins aren't quite the same diameter (which I'm sure you already know) so making it for the wider one should cover a wider range of bobbins. One other thing that occurred to me is that you could obviously stack 2 or 3 of the smaller bobbins in each of the slots, so if the top piece was made with a hole in it that could be rotated to a particular slot then the bobbins in that slot could be emptied out without tipping the whole lot out.