Singer Friction Clutch-Pulley

[Evo160K]

The Singer friction-clutch-pulley that you see in the pictures came with the Singer 45K25 that I japanned recently.  I refurbished it including a new, round, leather, brake shoe and a new, leather, clutch face when I refurbished the 45K25.  I applied a light coat of bearing grease to the leather clutch face. The machine sews well other than it continues to sew a number of stitches after the foot pedal is released.  What should be done to make it stop quicker?  Thank you, thank you very much.

 

[dikman]

Has the brake got enough tension on it and is the clutch completely disengaging when you take your foot off the pedal?

[Constabulary]

You may need a heavier spring (old spring became weak over the time) and / or thicker brake pad or roughen the surface. Thats what comes to my mind first. Maybe to thick clutch pad material - maybe sand it down a bit...  Hard to tell from a distance.

[chrisash]

I though old machines used Cork not leather for the clutch

[dikman]

Doesn't really matter what is used as the clutch is obviously not disengaging completely.

[CowboyBob]

The brake on the model is a short piece of round leather belting,you can see it in the first pic just to the right of the off-on switch,it's pushing against the outer part of the pulley & looks like it's wornout & needs to be replaced.A new stronger spring as suggested might help.

[amuckart]

I can't add anything beyond the "bigger spring, new brake leather" other people have already said, but I'd love to know more about your japanning process.

[Evo160K]

Thank you one and all for your comments.  You picked up on the problem immediately, the disc was dragging slightly on the plate.  I'll know for sure once the head is back on the base.  At the moment the base is in the garage, and the head in the house where it's warmer; the gold-leaf decals still need a coat of varnish.  Thank you again good people.

@ amuckart 

Good to see your post, hope that means you're feeling better.  All of the details on the japanning process may be found here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83226-first-try-at-japanning-on-a-restoration-project-the-conclusion/?tab=comments#comment-561849   Btw, I finally found a Singer 45K69 and treadle base.  The treadle base was in England minus a table top and it's support, the machine was 200 miles away in St. Louis, Missouri.  It all needed refurbishing, of course.  I was able to pick up the K69, but the freight and insurance on the treadle was steep.  Here are a couple of pictures:

 

[Scoutmom103]

very nice.  Like the base with the machine.

 

[ljk]

Years ago as a itinerant leather vendor I used a bunch of these jack shaft clutches

Currently I run a 111w155, a Union serger , and over lock.  They have excellent control

and the motor driving the clutch can be easily replaced.  Or as ones used with

a long belt running outside for some of my Amish friends.  I think your problem  is.

One the bearing at the yellow arrow should turn free when the clutch is disengaged

Second adjustment is at the orange arrow to free up movement.

I always run a leather clutch belting dry.  Make sure the main shaft is getting oil from the well