Top Coat?

[Jerry S]

I know this may be a weird question for someone whose been working leather for so long, but what does everyone use as a topcoat over their hand dyed projects. I've been working with pre-dyed leather for so long, I don't remember what is recommended as a sealing coat over the dye. Help?

[JayEhl]

I've used both Resolene mixed with 50% tap water but have now started to use Atom Wax.  I think I like it better.  Please note, I am far (very, very far...) from being an expert and the stuff I make is mostly "art - haha" so I don't have much in the way of anything being 'field tested' besides a few personal items.   

[Handstitched]

Here in Oz, I use a water based polyurethane sealer on my belts etc.  nearly no fumes , and no  dye rub off with water based dyes.  I also use a water based ' super shene'  sealer , depends on the project/job.

HS

[tsunkasapa]

I like the Atom wax and Leather Finish from Bee Natural. I really dislike all those plastic finishes. Bee Natural has several products for leather crafters.

Leather Finish (beenaturalleathercare.com)

[Jerry S]

On 3/26/2021 at 4:24 AM, Handstitched said:

Here in Oz, I use a water based polyurethane sealer on my belts etc.  nearly no fumes , and no  dye rub off with water based dyes.  I also use a water based ' super shene'  sealer , depends on the project/job.

HS

That's really what I'm looking for. I do remember having problems with rub off. I just don't recall what prevented it. Thanks for the info. Anyone else?

[fredk]

I'm now using a UK version of 'Mop & Glo' (name?). Its a floor 'polish' by Pledge. It is actually a water thin acrylic varnish. A couple of coats is usually sufficient

 

[Dwight]

As I only do mostly gunbelts and holsters . . . items that can and will get abuse . . . my preferred finish is Resolene.

1.  Never had any dye rub off with it.

2.  It is not "water proof" . . . but it sheds water easily 

3.  It is easy to apply . . . and looks good when it is done.

I mix it 1 to 1 with tap water . . . put on with a bristle brush . . . have never had one complaint about the finish on anything I've ever done.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

 

[dikman]

3 hours ago, fredk said:

I'm now using a UK version of 'Mop & Glo' (name?). Its a floor 'polish' by Pledge. It is actually a water thin acrylic varnish. A couple of coats is usually sufficient

 

I found a similar product here in Oz. By comparing the MSDS of Mop & Glo with what was available I found a local equivalent. It can be sprayed or brushed on and I've also used it over paint on model kits.

[Arturomex]

Dwight pretty summed it up for me. I'm also in the Resolene 1:1 camp except I apply it with an airbrush. I started doing that to avoid pulling antique out and it didn't take me long to start appreciating the quality of the finish I was getting on all my veg tan, antiqued or not.

One of the things I appreciate about acrylic finishes like Resolene is having the ability to control the gloss of the finish. I've found I can get anything from a nice, mellow luster to squint your eyes shiny by increasing the number of coats or by not thinning. I'm not a fan of the super high gloss look. I think it looks cheap and plasticky and it's prone to cracking but there's a sweet spot just below that level that I think looks especially good on black.  I find two or three coats cut 1:1 gives me the low key luster I want for most of my stuff and, as others have observed, there's never been a problem with dye rubbing off. The water clean up is just a nice bonus.

Regards,

Arturo

 

[chiefjason]

Mop & Glo cut with water about 50/50.

[garypl]

1 hour ago, chiefjason said:

Mop & Glo cut with water about 50/50.

This...

[Handstitched]

On 3/28/2021 at 3:06 AM, Jerry S said:

That's really what I'm looking for. I do remember having problems with rub off

I have tried oil based dyes in the past, but I had no end of issues with dye rubbing off, that why I now use water based dyes. 

@fredk I might try that. We have slate tiles in our house and they need sealing periodically, might try that sealer in place of Neatlac . The  Neatlac  variants can't be shipped from the east by air here in Oz and freight by road is ex$$$y . So instead, I've been using a water based varnish on some specific  jobs, works fine .  We learn something new every day on here  eh? 

HS 

Edited March 31, 2021 by Handstitched

[fredk]

I noticed some time ago, just a few years ago maybe,  that my Resolene was not sealing dye.

I think the makers might have changed it at some point

20 years ago when I first used Resolene one coat would seal dye, two coats were good for resist on my game boards. Then, a couple of years ago, I noticed that my newer batch of Resolene wasn't doing the job of sealing red dye no matter how many coats I put on or how it was put on so in desperation to get some 'coffee cup cuffs' sealed I grabbed my local version of 'Mop & Glo' which I'd been using as a varnish on wood, antler handles et cetera and found it worked wonderfully well.

Its now my main 'go to' sealer.

Its also a lot cheaper at £1 for 750 ml of 'Astonish Floor Polish' as it is called compared to £6.70 (+ s&h )for 120ml

[Handstitched]

A'h yes, red dye....yikes !! Mine is water based. Thats the one particular colour I have issues with too. It bleeds in all the wrong places, and like you said, no matter how much sealer  I put on, it still bleeds, other  colours are fine. It must be the way red is  made I guess.  So I decided to think outside the  square. 

HS