Stitch line

[Pappys Leather]

Not sure if this is the right place for my question. I have been doing leather for a while but always look to improve. I would like to know what other leather workers do to make your stitch line. What tools do you use?

[Danne]

I use a wing divider

[zuludog]

I started with a stitch groover, but now I use wing dividers. 

The top layer of leather, on the grain side, is the best part of the leather, and as you go towards the lower, flesh side the leather is not as good. If you use a groover you remove the best & strongest part of the leather, and you make it thinner, so that means you're doing the stitching on a thin part of the worst leather

The explanation for using a groover is that it sets the stitching below the surface, and so reduces wear on the stitching - but how often does the stitching really get worn?. If you use a divider, pull the stitching tight, and flatten it with a hammer or mallet, this will pull the stitching down so it lies pretty flat anyway - look closely and you'll see

And synthetic thread is much less susceptible to wear.   

This justification for using dividers was explained to me by Nigel Armitage at one of his lectures, and is also on his Vimeo channel.. I've used dividers over a groover for 4 or 5 years now, and not had any problems or complaints. I notice that in YouTube videos dividers are becoming more common.

 

Edited February 2, 2022 by zuludog

[Hardrada]

1 hour ago, Danne said:

I use a wing divider

Ditto.

[AzShooter]

Just started using a divider and find it much better than my groover especially when changing the width.

[Dwight]

I prefer the groover . . . have never had one complaint about the stitching . . . the leather pulling apart . . . or anything else . . . and I have products out there that have been used for 20 years.

Wing dividers are "OK" if you have several parallel stitch lines . . . or for a decorative piece . . . 

But to say it is wrong . . . is no more true than saying Dodge trucks are wrong . . . because they are a Dodge.

May God bless,

Dwight

[HandyDave]

I prefer a groover as well. I make mainly heavily used outdoor gear and gun leather. And if the stitching isnt recessed that fraction the groover makes it will rub and fray against everything. And a groover in my opinion doesnt go no where near deep enough into the leather to break the structure of it. Now thin softer leathers i will use a divider to make a line cause ive found when you pull thread tight it kinda sets itself into the leather. This is one of those questions where there really isnt a wrong or right way its what works best for each person and what there doing.

[Tugadude]

17 minutes ago, HandyDave said:

I prefer a groover as well. I make mainly heavily used outdoor gear and gun leather. And if the stitching isnt recessed that fraction the groover makes it will rub and fray against everything. And a groover in my opinion doesnt go no where near deep enough into the leather to break the structure of it. Now thin softer leathers i will use a divider to make a line cause ive found when you pull thread tight it kinda sets itself into the leather. This is one of those questions where there really isnt a wrong or right way its what works best for each person and what there doing.

Good points.  When I do use a groover, I just barely scribe the surface, so it isn't really taking any thickness away.  I also use wing dividers on some leather.

One point though, when it comes to stitching within a recessed groove, just know that it causes the thread to lose its angle.  I like the zig-zag appearance of stitching and so I tend to not recess it.  Different strokes for different folks.

[Bert03241]

I use mostly my laser. I  draw the stitch lines in my laser program, then place the holes exactly were I want them and let the laser make a small hole along the line.I then drill out the holes with a small bit or use an awl to open the holes up.

[tsunkasapa]

I use both the above mentioned tools, depending on the project. On things that get used, like work/tool belts, holsters and such, I groove. For the 'fridge magnets I just made for a friend, I use the dividers.

[Handstitched]

Sometimes  the calipers, sometimes the groover, depends on the job. But for belts for eg. , the groover . 

HS

 

[chuck123wapati]

On 2/2/2022 at 1:11 AM, zuludog said:

I started with a stitch groover, but now I use wing dividers. 

The top layer of leather, on the grain side, is the best part of the leather, and as you go towards the lower, flesh side the leather is not as good. If you use a groover you remove the best & strongest part of the leather, and you make it thinner, so that means you're doing the stitching on a thin part of the worst leather

The explanation for using a groover is that it sets the stitching below the surface, and so reduces wear on the stitching - but how often does the stitching really get worn?. If you use a divider, pull the stitching tight, and flatten it with a hammer or mallet, this will pull the stitching down so it lies pretty flat anyway - look closely and you'll see

And synthetic thread is much less susceptible to wear.   

This justification for using dividers was explained to me by Nigel Armitage at one of his lectures, and is also on his Vimeo channel.. I've used dividers over a groover for 4 or 5 years now, and not had any problems or complaints. I notice that in YouTube videos dividers are becoming more common.

 

in my case this collar was grooved for stitching, the square ring in the picture has been sliding back and forth over it for one year with virtually no effect. No tears in the leather. With out being grooved it wouldn't have lasted a month. What I'm getting at is yes there are times when you need to groove your stitch lines . this collar is one of those times belts the same thing, a holster maybe not so much. One method doesn't fit every need its just that simple. 

[tsunkasapa]

What he said.

[JLSleather]

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