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I recently picked up four Indian Head nickles at an auction, got a good price for them. I was thinking about mounting them in a key fob blank. They measure about 7/8 of on inch in diameter. I was thinking of cutting a 3/4 inch hole in the center of two blanks. Then glue the two together with the nickle in the middle. Then stitch around it. I belong to a treasure hunting club and it would make a great gift or auction item. So my question is, what is the best way to cut the 3/4 inch hole? I've been searching on google, and there are plenty of cheap punch's. I do have a 5w laser engraver I could use. But I wanted to get your thoughts about this.

When tin and antimony is added to lead to make pewter it lowers the melting point temperature. For this mix I use a special heat proof silicone rubber to make the mould. The heat proof rubber is meant to be used with pewter casting Plaster is usually mainly used for a single one-off casting as the heat of the metal cracks the mould and it breaks apart when removing the casting This is a medieval style belt end I sand cast, then hand painted;

I'm not familiar with that particular machine but the basic process is to roll the machine over until the needle rises about a quarter inch or 3/8" back up from the bottom. Then find whatever you need to loosen the shuttle hook so you can rotate it. Set the point of the hook right above the eye of the needle, exactly in line with the needle.. The exact measurements will probably vary for your specific machine but should be close enough to stitch. The hook should all but touch the needle. There a spec and a way to adjust it if needed. Also, if the point of the hook doesn't align right above the eye of the needle, you may have a needle bar height adjustment to make. For me, the big thing is to remove things like needle plates and food dogs so I have a good, clear view. Do it a couple times and you can do it in your sleep.

Just checked and the melting point of tin is considerably lower than lead so a silicone mold would be ideal for repeat castings. Won't work with silver though, temp is too high. I believe jewellers use plaster to make their molds but they would likely only be good for a couple of castings at most.

Good idea fred. kgg, yep, some use 3D printing to make their part and then use the "lost 3D" method to cast it.

Nice work finding the offending bushing! 💥 Here are a couple of excellent videos by Uwe on the general practice of setting timing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wNBPX8i524 - video by Uwe of Consew 225 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pL9WiZeKZAY - video by Uwe of Adler 67 Since these videos are conducted on a different machine, what you actually loosen and adjust will differ but the overall principle is the same. Your juki user manual will have factory specs for needle bar rise, needle bar height, and hook to needle distance. These will be adequate to get you sewing again. After you become a pro at timing by the book, you might also enjoy How to Stuff a Hook and New Way to Measure Timing.

I do some casting. I use 'model metal' which is a tin alloy and also pewter, which is a lead and tin alloy. For multiple castings I use a heat-proof silicon rubber mould and for one-offs. or two, I did the casting in oil sand For making conchos I'd use the rubber mould. Its good for about 100 to 150 castings. Less if you allow the metal to get too hot.

I already use LED lights by my spraying set up. I cover them in cling film and when that gets a bit grotty I take it off and put on fresh

Hum, that can't be right. I know casting, how can I make it easier. As a replacement to the lost wax method of casting maybe use 3D printed castings. kgg

I follow your you-tube channel so watched it the other day and I was impressed at the fine detail you got, not easy with sand-casting. For tin-casting you might be able to get away with making the mold from silicon, it would allow for repeat casting and give very fine detail. As an aside after watching your episode about the Vevor press I just had to buy one - I don't really need it (yet) but it's a solid bit of engineering!! Keep the vids coming, they're always good to watch.

My order is on the way. I preferred to get complete sets, that's the way I roll, as I have needed to modify/finish pieces in the past.

Yep - much to my wife's dismay. Whenever she goes through her clean-up phase she says "is all that necessary?". I'm currently melting aluminium to make it useable in a lathe (casting cylindrical shapes and some square bar stock), next is brass and copper scrap. The foundry/furnace was built from scrounged material, as was the burner, the only thing I bought was the hi-temp lining. And not a 3D part to be seen! (Sorry kgg).

I think for photo's they maybe good but not so much for spraying as the LED's would probably get covered from overspray. Thank you. I think some of the fumes comes from the thinner being used. I use alcohol as the thinning agent. I think that would work really nicely. But remember no project is complete with 3D. You must have a bit of Newfoundlander in ya. It's always nice to scrounge materials. kgg

I have two and think it are good machines. good for bags and wallets. On my machines the feed dog only goes forward and backwards (not up and down) but since there is also top feed and needle feed it works fine for me

Hello everyone. I'm in the process of cleaning up an old landis 3. Does anyone know if the rubber seals for the campbell randall wax pots will work for the landis 3 one? The campbell seals are the only ones I seem to find. Thanks you much. Brian Merrick

Thanks--those parts aren't in their catalog, but I'll give them a call. None of the local dealers are able to help.

Mine was £25.78 in the UK.

Nice work as always. Do you recall what brand of knife with the stag/antler handle? Thanks.

seems I´ll get my order within the next few days.... curious me is 😉

since you are in the USA I´d contact a sewing machine dealer in you area. I´d probably check with Toledo sewing machines https://www.tolindsewmach.com/parts.html They for sure can get you the parts you need or even have them in stock.

Help me out, I need few parts for Adler 20-20. -Presser feet -Shuttle/hook and parts surrounding it and keeping it in place. (I assume they are two horse shoe shaped parts and spring?) Also those few screws that keep it in place. -Leftmost slide plate -Needle clamp Located in EU, you can make offers from anywhere.

This looks terrific! I am considering trying to make a rifle sling, and while I can't get croc hide here, I may try using some hair-on sealskin...

Nice! I setup on top of my deepfreeze too. A bathroom exhaust fan on the bottom of a cabinet above the freezer, ducted into my furnace room, just the other side of the wall. I setup a cardboard spray booth with open front. The furnace room had 2 gas fired water heaters and a condensing furnace. The water heaters are vented up through a chimney. There is enough air flow that the furnace room never sees the atmosphere go above the LEL (lower explosive limit) for the dye or paint, or finish, so no worries there. Combustion air is drawn from outside, none of the air from the furnace room ever gets drawn back into the house, standard design according to safety codes for furnace and water heater requirements and fresh air makeup to the house. Compressed air comes from my shop compressor in my detached garage. Just had to run a hose between house and garage through an underground conduit that was already in place for power, network, phone lines. My only cost were the air hose and good quality quiet bathroom exhaust fan. All else is was scrounged materials from my hoard or free like cardboard.

Hi Folks, I'm in need all of the reverse feed parts shown in the attached parts list for my Singer 211G156. Basically, I have the stud that the lever attaches to, but not the screw, and I have the plate on the sewing machine body that the roller contacts. Everything else in between is gone. I managed to find a couple things at Dowling and College Sewing, haven't yet contacted Ronsew, but I'm hoping someone has some salvaged stuff stashed that covers everything. Thanks!

Nice work. They look great.