All Activity

I'm currently working on a duffle bag I plan to line with microsuede. I didn't realize it at the time of purchase, but the chrome tanned leather I'm working with is very soft, floppy, and spongy. I did a test and glued the microsuede to a section of the leather. I used a bakers rolling pin to join the two surfaces. I was surprised by the results. The leather stiffened up on the lining/glue side and tends to wrinkle when I flex it that direction. Flexing it the other direction, it remains soft and spongy. I think the rolling pin stretched the leather out as it pressed onto the liner...this caused the wrinkling. I think if I glue the microsuede to the leather without using the rolling pin, this might not happen. I'll do another test before I start applying the liner to the bag leather sections. I also noticed the edges of the microsuede are showing some fraying after I cut it to a uniform size. I'm not sure how much of an issue this will become after the duffle bag is put together. I think the glue on the surface might hold it all together after a little fraying. If that's not the case, I want to deal with it now before the bag is stitched together. Any thoughts about this?

I am starting to sew halters made from 2-3 layers of Biothane Beta 520 super heavy (3.5-4 mm thick) on a Cobra Class 4. I am having problems with skipped stitches, mainly when backstitching 2-3 layers near hardware. I am using a holster plate that allows me to stitch closer to a center bar buckle. I did make small adjustments to the hook timing, following @Uwe's video on Youtube. Thanks, Uwe! The machine sews leather fine. My current setup for Biothane is the Hennigan Precision holster plate with feed dog, the Hennigan narrow presser foot set, #207 thread top/ #138 thread bottom, size 24 794 7x3 round point needle, and 5-6 stitches per inch. This setup buries the knots in a single layer of Beta 520 super heavy. I have also tried #277/#207 thread with needle sizes 27, 26, and 25. I've done a limited test of cutting point needles but I like the thread tension with round point needles. I have used the stock holster plate and harness feet that come with the Class 4 for the larger thread and needle sizes. Still get occasional skipped stitches. The information for needle choices that I've read in this forum and seen on Youtube is contradictory. Most suggestions are to use round point needles that are 1-2 sizes larger than what would be used for sewing leather. I haven't yet tried thread lubricant, and I haven't played with presser foot tension. I don't notice flagging while sewing. I mainly sew bridle leather on this machine and would prefer not coating the thread path with lubricant, but I am open to suggestions. I appreciate your advice on machine setup and best practices for sewing Biothane.

It basically is a modern version of the Singer 45K Parts list an manual can be downloaded here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/104255-neels-saddlery-tension-issue/#findComment-696717

Some people buy them because the quality is better than the new versions of today, these were built for the factory not just for a back shed hobbyist.

Great machine the 133k13, in good condition better than any modern version, works a treat.

Five feathered tulip leather pattern

Have you taken apart the press? Maybe the solution is simpler than you think. As I said before I once replaced tool holders with a round long nut. Its a quite simple part. Worth checking I´d say. What is the outer diameter of the tool holder? A.) is a guide screw for the tool holder, the tool holder either has a slot of a flat site where it slides along the screw. B.) is a lock screw for the big brass spindle guide C.) is a spindle guide - all spindle guides I have seen are right threaded so it should go out left. But C could be very tight. EDIT: quote from the text on this website: Presswerkzeuge - GETMORE-SHOP Tools for presses with M6 thread - like many machines from Astor, Stocko, Daudé - can be found under "Tools M6" Have you checked if you can screw in a plain M6 screw?

I'm sorry for jumping into a thee year old thread. USMC42, I'm wondering if you ever resolved your issue. I own and use a Weaver Cub with a mixture of success and failures but it's getting better for me. My Seiko CW-8 is laying the exact same stitch as in your first linked picture. My issues is, it only does that when I sew around a circular pattern. Otherwise, it stitches beautifully. In my case, I cannot understand why the tension should be different in a turn than on a straight row. Perhaps the straight line stitching is more tolerant of the bobbin tension being slightly weak. I'm reviewing recommendations on this thread and am leaning toward increasing my bobbin tension slightly.

Hello...just picked this machine Ga5-1 on Marketplace. Cannot find a manual on line. I need help adjusting the timming. Pictures or even a video of closeup up correct position will be greatly appreciated. Lower tension mechanism was missing, have a new one but have no idea how the springs go. My apologies for my lack of knowledge Thank you. Model GA5-1 Manual and parts list would be appreciated in where to buy them

If they have their own proprietary thread size why not just say so? I don't think Singer made any big deal about it. I'm curious to see what you find out.

I just got mine yesterday and had mine keep throwing an er 7 code and said its overheating. It stopped and wouldn't turn back on plus it was loud. I disconnected all the belts and narrowed it down to the servo motor. The noise is coming from the motor itself and sounds like its unbalanced inside.

It has been mentioned, but tx custom dies has one that a lot of holster makers like. It's on my list of goodies to get. I have an osborn, but sadly it isnt very good quality and is also a bit narrow. For a 1.5" wide .25 thick belt, a 5/16 x 1.75 oblong punch is about perfect. I hand cut mine to this. I believe tx cust dies is about these dimensions also.

Big step. First of all, what's your weather like? Over here in the UK the outdoor show season finishes around October time. Rain can ruin a weekend and can be a big factor over here, less of a problem where you are. If you intend to do it full time you might consider paying the extra cost of indoor shows in which case gazebos are less of a consideration. I've seen many cheap ones in the bins after a windy weekend but the good ones are very expensive. If it's to cover three pitches it'll need to be a big one which will make your eyes water. As is often quoted on here, "buy once, cry once". As for the display itself, try for an open fronted "U" shape which is more welcoming than a straight table. Fabricate some vertical tiers, especially at the back where you can put the bigger items especially some brightly coloured stuff. People walking past won't see stuff that are on a flat table. Lighting is a must and raises you to a different level. Use it to spotlight your more expensive or more interesting items and it will attract a lot more than those stalls that don't have it. When choosing what shows to book your first consideration should be footfall. Don't imagine for a second that everyone will like your stuff as much as you do. Only a small percentage of your stuff will appeal to MOST people. Now, after looking at the total footfall you have to face some facts. The promoters will lie about the total footfall because they want your $. Now take out the number that are only making a day of it and have no intention of buying anything. Then take out the number that would be a customer if only they had some money including the tyre kickers. You can think of many more that won't be giving you their money. The number that's left is where you'll make your money. So the higher the footfall, the more chance of making some money. Unfortunately these are the shows that will cost the most. Another important factor might be the type of show. I've paid £40 for a weekend at a steam rally (not with leather) and took well over £1000. I've also paid £600 at an air show with a huge footfall and didn't get the pitch money back because I booked too late and had a lousy position. Lesson learned, when you have all your ducks in a row you'll book your shows for the year just after the new year to guarantee a good pitch. Over here there's a publication called "The Showman's Directory", it lists every show through the year with footfall and contact details. Although primarily a UK thing there was a lot of international shows as well. Maybe there's a US version. Good luck.

📹

I don't have anything against any of the professional punch makers . . . But I'm a cheapskate . . . so I make my own. So far . . . no one as asked me if their holster had holes made by one of the professionals . . . they just pay up and go on down the road . . . happy little customers. Mine are made from good old EMT . . . better known as Electrical Metallic Tubing . . . or conduit for short. Probably took me 2 hours to make all of them . . . punches and round end strap cutters. May God bless, Dwight

Are you set up to take credit cards? if not you can lose a lot of sales.

You'll be doing a lot of talking. Take some confectionery and keep a large bowl-full on the table. That attracts ppl like flies to horse manure. Then when they're over talk to them, about anything, their coat, the weather, anything. Ppl will find you very friendly. Don't be shy or reticent, thats for losers Find out what ppl like in leather. Talk leather. Talk their hind legs off. When they're ready to talk Something I saw done once but I've never tried it: have a sign with a price on it $(hundred dollars) and put that on something small like a wallet or purse. Ppl will ask 'is that right?!' then you say 'oops, that sign shouldn't be there . . . ' gets their attention so it does Have plenty of freebies for the trainee grups. A happy trainee is a happy and interested grup

It was sewing perfectly fine just a couple days earlier. Nothing was changed. Still threaded the same. Sewing vinyl. T90 top thread, not sure of bobbin, but it isn't too small or large, and worked fine for all the other sewing I was doing. Set the timing and needle height. I'll take a video.