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Nice. I don't seem to see a swivel knife. Not necessary unless you want to do carving, like a portrait or a floral pattern on a knife sheath or holster. Yep, understanding the many types of leather available is tough. Vegetable Tanned, or "veg tan" is the type you need to stamp and carve on. Chrome Tan is cheaper and available in an array of gaudy colors but is to be avoided for anything that will contact metal (as a knife sheath or holster). Then there's thickness. Learn the "ounce" system, would be my advice (for which you have not asked). An ounce of leather thickness is 1/64th of an inch. Wallet linings are often in the 2/3 ounce range. The outside can be up to maybe 4/5. Knife sheaths, I usually use 4/5. Many people go heavier. Gun Holsters typically run 8ish to 10 ounce. Belts can be 4/5 up to 12 or more depending on the application, sometimes 2 layers. If you ask 10 people for their thoughts on the last paragraph, you'll get a dozen different answers. For me, I keep 3 hides around, a 2/3 ounce, a 4/5 and something 8 to 10 or so. All undyed veg tan. And then there's a question of brands ... I'm lucky to have a very large leather/fur dealer close by and use whatever they have. Others are very loyal to a given brand (Wickett & Craig, Herman Oak, etc) and would sooner fight a Holy War than change. The Saddle and Tack people are a world unto themselves where types of leather are concerned. Looking forward to your progress.

Hello everyone, I recently bought my first skiving machine, it's a used machine, a Sagitta SC75A (for which I'm also looking for the manual) I'm new to skiving so I'm asking you if you've encountered problems like mine and could you explain to me how I can solve them? The big problem is that it flakes unevenly with a wavy pattern, not smooth as it should be. Thank you Ps, I'm attaching a photo to help you understand the problem. It's a 2cm wide and very long strip of leather, stripped from 1mm to 0.5mm.

Thanks I just got this kit on Amazon... Now I need to get some leather, seem to have some basic tools I guess . Now I need to get some patterns and some leather to start practicing. Saw I few things on a Renaissance fair that I would.like to some.day be able to make like a dragon mask or a dragon night night helmet. I also already promised my mom to make her a wallet once my skills are up for the challenge.

One more detail to add to that picture and description. I put a 1 1/2 inch pulley on the motor.

This looks amazing!

@Bren2736 We probably need to know if these include shipping and what types of payment you accept. Don't forget we have a global reach so you probably should address international shipping or not.

I have several Saddle Making DVD’s and books for sale. Stohlman 3 book set “Encyclopedia of Saddle Making $250 Jeremiah Watt 3 DVD set $250 Dale Harwood 2 DVD set $300 Bruce Cheany 4 DVD set $90 Harry Adams Saddlemakers Shop Manual $200 Payment by PayPal invoice. Buyer to pay shipping. I’ll calculate actual shipping at time of purchase. US lower 48 sales only.

Thank you for posting it. Hope it helps somebody.

This box looks complex. It has the following ports which are common to a lot of digital servo motors: X1, X2: motor X3: gas pedal X7: needle positioner But then there's additionally X5 (head unit) and X4 (looks like a control panel) that most digital servo motor's don't have. In other words, I'll bet this is a proprietary system and that it will be difficult to buy the pieces individually.

You seem to be creating a niche. Not every newbie with an Amazon starter kit is going to be doing this but I don't think it's a big enough market for some Chinese factory to spit out 5,000 before lunch tomorrow. Plus, doing custom bespoke orders for someone's favorite book. You're on to something.

I can now make a moccasin. I tried to make my own pattern a couple of years ago and failed miserably, as you can see, they worked but not much more lol. So this time I used a pattern pack from Tandy, "Mountain Man Moccasin Patterns by Gene Noland". I used pattern number three, decided to make it exactly as the pattern, and it was a failure, too. The leather tore out, and the stitching holes were so far apart they looked like crap. The heel and toe had wrinkles that I hate. But the problem I think, was my leather mostly, these moc patterns are made for lighter, more flexible leather than I used, so I had to make a form for the soles, learned that from the first pair. Veg tan won't mold to your foot with time. I used heavy holster leather for both insole and outsole, so the sole is as hard as a decent sandal. I used some 2mm for the vamps, but I still had to oil them before sewing them up, learned that from #2. A good coat of nfo gives the leather enough stretch so you can pull the stitching tight as you go. 3# came together, I think, got the form right, so i dont have puckers , made the vamp three pieces so they dont tear out and fit correctly. Skived the edges of the sole down and moved the stitching up closer and more tidy , took a hammer and pounded out the puckers in the toe and heel. Oh, and changed the top a bit . These i could wear downtown. I used crap leather as these were experiments, but now maybe I'll buy some good bison for the vamps, I kinda like the harder soles now that i can make them repeatable. funny thing the leather I used had been left out in the sun, and part had tanned darker, so now I have a light moc and a darker one lol I guess ones going into the car window for a week or so.

So I have only 3 pieces of it, motor driver and eccelerator, looking for the controller

Thank you this is very helpful I try to find this to and didn’t find anything

I have an Adler 220 on which I use 328 needles. I have adjusted/redone the timing. Sometimes I measure the difference in length between the needle systems and adjust the needle bar using a caliper.

I found this for you (didn't take long) it may be of some help. You could try asking Pfaff about a controller but I suspect the cost would be high - if they have one. The chances of getting one used would probably be low. Pity, it looks like a nice motor. Good luck. picodrive_p40pd.pdf

The first link looks correct. I guess I’ll order that and see if it works. Thank you. I have the ones shown in the second link and they’re not the same.

Can we get a photo of the back of the box that says "pico drive"? Also can we get separate photos of each piece that plugs into the back of the motor? I'm not familiar with this model, but trying to see if all the parts are here.

Thanks! Generally when I mention The Silmarillion people don't know much about it, this is why it's in a separate clamshell. Everyone knows The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings so it makes sense to have those 4 books in one box. I like to joke The Silmarillion is for the Tolkien nerds lol. Thank you, I really appreciate it. After taking a few product pictures I find that it's missing something to make it more cohesive. On the back cover especially, everything just looks to be floating there. I think a border will bring more balance to it, like putting a picture frame on a photograph. Making the borders gold on all the covers will tie the books together while the other things, like end pages, being different will state that you're in a different part to the story.

It mounts in one of these three holes already drilled & tapped in the bed, usually it will be the front one.

WOW, there are some very talented people on this site, and you are definitely one of them. Beautiful work.

Tim, your work is truly world-class excellent.

7x23 are slightly longer IIRC. Minor needle bar height adjustment could be necessary but they may work even w/o adjustment.

sure: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234079435236 this is with what the 31K48 came ex factory but roller size may vary. however we have not seen your machine and how it is set up. Could be this type as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/143603133032

Thank you very nice thinking on the back stitching I will take it for my next time I will start new project so this time I was trying to sale this machine so I have this seiko and consew for sale and the guy was sure that is do able to sew 207 I told him that is to mach for this machine surprisedly the machine sewed well forward but not backward and any way this guy is not serious and I got off him anyway, and I'm going to sit on these machines and set them up properly from the start thank you very much

If you're sewing a few stitches, reversing and then sewing forward again, you're running over the same stitches 3 times. That is going to be messy. Plus the needle hole isn't going to accommodate 3 threads. On my big 441 clone, I start a few stitches from the beginning, reverse 3 holes and then stitch forward again. This gives me 2 locked stitches with 2 threads each. You could try this or follow Hildebrands method, which is how we do it on machines without reverse. I think this is likely your problem. I'd double check that the machine likes that 207 thread. My 111Ws cap out at 138. How about they bobbin thread? What size are you using there?