All Activity

Interesting information. Thanks for sharing.

when sewing boxing style mittens, the back is larger than the palm. To gather them evenly, they are handsewn with single stitches at first. One stitch at 12 o'clock, one at 4 o'clock, one at 8 o'clock. Then split the difference... so next at 2 and 10 o'clock, then continue single stitches at the biggest gaps. This makes the gathers even, but again, no machine works that way, except the human hands.

often Ebay is a bit cheaper than Amazon - even from the same seller. Just saying...

My two cents worth: Notes i) The recommended size of needle for Tex135 (V138) is a 140 (#22) thin material, 160 (#23) medium material and 180 (#24) thick material. ii) Your 130 needle is really meant for Tex90 (V92). A good reference chart is ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). iii) V45 has a breaking strength of 7.5 lbs iv) V69 has a breaking strength of 11 lbs v) V92 has a breaking strength of 14.5 lbs vi) V138 has a breaking strength of 22 lbs If I'm not mistaken the 269 is cylinder arm and by adding a simple table top attachment you would have sorta kinda a flatbed for versatility. Personally I wouldn't bother changing the thread size and do all the sewing with Tex135 (V138). kgg

@AlZillaCorrect, not inexpensive at 120€, but if I try it out and it runs fine, I think I'll just go for it as I have neither the time nor the inclination to find a used machine from a private owner and try to get it back in shape.

Thank you for your replies. It gives me some assurance that they should be good.

Beautiful work. Your tooling is first rate and the two-tone really makes it.

I would like to second toxo's post. It's so much easier with a pattern. Well worth the $10. In addition he has instructional videos to go with the pattern. With these patterns you need the minimum in tools. Use a 1.5 mm punch and get some tiger thread, some needles and go at it. The stitching is alot easier this way. I wish I had figured this out earlier, it would have saved alot of frustration.

Thank you for the info! I really would like a 51w model and will keep searching online marketplaces, in hope of finding one.

Same ad as https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/132423-new-adler-669-i-have-three-of-them-2500/#comment-788786 except for the price. We can edit the price for you instead of duplicating ads with a price change. Also this ad is located under used. Like new is a better location. Let me know what you want done with these so I can clean it up a bit instead of conflicting ads.

You need to quote or tag the seller to make sure they are getting notifications when some one posts on their thread. @BullSheathLeather you have someone that is interested.

Welcome to LW. I moved your post to the Marketplace. Home > Marketplace > Items For Sale >Leather and Lace Please read the marketplace rules and conform. You must provide a price, condition of equipment, any information or restrictions on shipping, and photos when possible. Failure to conform may result in your ad being blocked. See the marketplace rules here https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ We need some pictures, price, shipping info or restrictions.

The narrow bars just means that the bars are not as wide through the middle (waist) as other trees - theoretically for closer contact. We could get into a big discussion of whether that is true in real life, but that is another rabbit hole. The narrow bars should mean less contact surface and again - theoretically less weight bearing surface. The front and rear of the tree bear weight and the area overall is what controls pressure. A narrow waist on a tree is a minor factor fit. Bar angles, bar length, twist, rock in the bars, gullet/ handhole width, and relief at the bar edges are all bigger factors for fit than that narrow waist.

Excellent!

I'll second CKPSMS. They're on amazon or ebay. I've purchased quite a bit and always been satisfied.

I have bought two edge guide presser feet for my Pfaff from CKPSMS through Amazon and am very satisfied. It can be hard to find parts that fit the older Pfaffs, these were just fine. Bobbins in my opinion can be bought anywhere and they should be good.

Took me a while to realise that hand sewing works around dissimilar curves because it draws the two halve together gradually. In some cases the stitch holes are different on each side to facilitate. The simplest way when they get too far apart is to go back now and then and use the previous hole twice to even up but doesn't look good if gonna be seen. When machining it's sometimes easier to "V" notch arounf the bends.

"Why not just send the photo? I'm sure he can figure it out."

Yeah, you should be able to machine sew that. That's the problem with my pattern theres no way for me to sew the sole on other than by hand, and it is a bugger for sure. i found that to get a good-looking stitch i had to take about 6 stitches, then use my needles as a lever to stretch the vamp into place, tighten the stitches, then do 6 more. My poor needles went through heck and are bent from the process. Stuff they don't tell you in the instructions. I got it down to about an hour for the sole with the last one.

Very nice. If it's in a shop I imagine it won't be inexpensive but I'd hope they will have gone through it and fixed any issues. In my part of the world, we find them anywhere from free to $30 or $40 from private sellers. I doubt a small shop would bother with one. My biggest complaint with any of those 70's and 80's machines is when they start slow and the motor grumbles and growls. It can be just a lack of lubrication or it can be the motor and/or foot controller. All fixable issues but take time and money. I would expect a machine from a shop to start smoothly and run easy.

After watching the Dieselpunk video for the mocs I don't like em so much but the pattern has all the parts so Ill look at adapting it for machining. The slipper pattern will be a breeze to machine and should be quick too.

Yes, I have purchased bobbins and bobbin cases for a Sailrite clone. I purchased them from CKPSMS brand and they were decent quality. I have also bought from Aliexpress. kgg

Those are nice as well, they look really comfy and warm. That steampunk pattern dude has a nice pattern for that driving moc style, that's what they call em here anyway. I almost bought it, but my bank didn't like the site and wouldn't process the transaction. Mine are for outdoors as much as indoors I am thinking I'll make it even more of a chukka type moc with a fully gusseted tongue. Now that I have a decent pattern i can continue to enhance it.

Problem solved friquant is right. Thank you all!!

@friquantIdeally I should test it, but I found this shop whilst at a nearby town, so I may just have to pay them another visit. @toxoThanks for your reply, I should have made it clear that the lining is only attached at the top, stitched into the construction, essentially a bag within a bag. @AlZillaThanks@AlZillaThanks for the info Al, I did mean tex 45, the one I found has the drop down feed dogs, I think. I will probably just make another trip there to give it a go and will most likely end up getting it if it seems solid. Thanks for all your replies!