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Found the video on youtube, as his website is no longer working:

Moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners

Moved your post to leather sewing machines. This is where the machine guys hang out. You'll be much more likely to get help here.

Thanks a bunch! It seems the strap cutter is still being made by an Italian company and imported to the states. The press does trace back to FIPI, so it’s possible a manual could be found. As both machines being 3 phase it’ll be a few weeks before I have them powered up and running.

That would be easier and way faster than grinding the screw heads down like i did.

@Rhoda - I split you out into a new topic. I assume you were inquiring about a Durokop Adler 268, since that's the title of the thread you tagged into. Please let us know if that's not correct. Also, I bet the sewing machine experts are going to want pictures, location and other info. Pictures are easily added via the "Add Files" button. 1.4 megs max size. If too large, reducing them to 800 pixels in the longest dimension will get the job done.

looks like you spent time putting some thought into that overhaul . Very nice job . .

Looking for a bobbin case cover number for a Singer 200w102 that a friend gave me, it works, but no bobbin case cover. Thanks

Thank you, and god bless you, Pastor.

Hello, what is the best way or best resource to determine the value of our industrial size Durkopp Adler sewing machine?

I have finished my speed reducer pulley for my 51W56. It slips on over the stock flywheel and is fixed there by set screws which fit into the stock flywheels set screw holes. My serve drive to 51W driven ratio is 2.07 to 1 now. It requires 4 1/2" 6061 rod to make.

SOO sorry I missed your earlier post. Praying for continued healing for your daughter. Glad they were able to get everything taken care of. Now the long process of healing. Praying over her for comfort and patience.

1. Introduction: Why Foil Stamping Enhances Leather Craftsmanship In the world of handmade leatherwork, the leather foil stamping effect is more than just decoration—it’s a symbol of quality and sophistication. A precise, reflective imprint instantly elevates the value of a leather item, whether it’s a wallet, belt, or notebook cover. Foil stamping isn’t merely a visual detail; it reflects mastery of handcrafted leather decoration techniques. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the tools, materials, processes, and advanced methods that bring foil stamping to life. 2. Foil Stamping Machine Basics Manual vs. Electric Machines Manual Foil Stamping Machine: Budget-friendly and perfect for small-scale production or customization. Requires experience and manual control. Electric Foil Stamping Machine: Offers precise temperature and pressure settings, ideal for batch production. Higher upfront cost. Key Components Overview Heating Plate: Transfers heat to the stamping die and foil. Pressure Adjustment Knob: Controls downward force for even imprinting. Temperature Control Unit: Ensures accurate heat levels, reducing burning risks. Safety Guidelines Always wear heat-resistant gloves to prevent burns. Operate in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes. 3. Complete Die Installation Workflow Step 1: Choosing Your Hot Stamping Mold Brass Stamp: Excellent for crisp detail and frequent use due to high heat conductivity. Silicone Dies: Flexible and gentle on soft or textured leather. Step 2: 3 Tips for Proper Installation Use mounting screws or bolts to secure the die firmly.(Different brands of hot stamping machine molds have different installation methods) Clean the die bed before mounting to prevent misalignment. Lightly press after mounting to check for stability. Step 3: Temperature & Pressure Testing Always test on scrap leather before working on the final product. Recommended temperature range: 95–135°C, adjusted based on leather type. Use thick paper or positioning clips to assist in pressure testing. 4. The Golden Rules of Material Preparation Leather Type Compatibility Vegetable-Tanned Leather: Excellent for foil adhesion; ideal for detailed designs. Chrome-Tanned Leather: Varies based on finish; always test foil compatibility. Foil Selection Tips Color: Gold, silver, and rose gold are most popular. Material: Choose leather-specific foil for better adhesion and durability. Durability: Opt for UV- and wear-resistant foils for long-lasting shine. 5. Step-by-Step Stamping Instructions Stage 1: Preheating Preheat for 5–10 minutes before stamping. Reference Temperature Table:(Recommended hot stamping temperature for different materials) Leather Type Suggested Temperature Vegetable-Tanned 105–125°C Chrome-Tanned 90–110°C Suede 85–95°C Stage 2: Positioning Techniques Use a positioning ruler or tape for alignment. Two Methods: Marking with a pencil or awl Pre-punched guide holes Stage 3: Pressing the Foil Apply medium to firm pressure depending on material. Hold for 2–4 seconds to ensure even transfer. Stage 4: Cooling & Peeling Mistakes Mistake 1: Peeling foil before it cools—causes tearing. Mistake 2: Ripping foil too quickly—leaves smudges. 6. Advanced Techniques for Skilled Crafters Creating 3D Foil Effects Use deep-engraved brass dies Double-press technique enhances dimensionality Multi-Color Foil Layering Process: Apply base layer → Cool → Align second die Use guide holes to avoid registration errors Stamping on Specialty Leathers Suede: Use lower temperature to prevent scorching Oiled Leather: May darken; always test beforehand 7. Troubleshooting Q&A Problem 1: Foil Doesn’t Stick Five Common Causes: Temperature too low Insufficient pressure Incompatible foil Die misalignment Leather coated with residue Problem 2: Blurry Edges Clean the die thoroughly Adjust temperature and time Consider using a sharper, higher-quality die Problem 3: Excess Foil Residue Use a rubber eraser to clean edges Ensure static-free workspace Improve foil cutting and trimming before use Conclusion Mastering leather foil stamping takes time, precision, and the right tools. With the knowledge in this guide, you’ll be equipped to create polished, professional-grade pieces that highlight your craftsmanship and attention to detail. Whether you're just starting out or looking to level up, the right combination of technique, materials, and creativity will make every piece shine—literally.

Thanks! I decided to remake the liner and sweatband. Here was how I did the first one. The liner (cotton) and sweatband (2oz vegtan) are stitched together then stitched into the hat. This is how I remade it. Now the liner is separate from the sweatband (1oz pig suede) and the sweatband flips inward to hold the liner

Love this forum. Thanks, Constanulary. I ordered one of those needle bars. It may be the trick. I have a couple of 111w based machines, and I stock a variety of 135 needles. I’m confident that my machine is the older model. Not had time to drag it out for photos. I’m busy fixing shoes this morning. Thanks for all the help. James the Cobbler

looks nice. Show a picture of the final product after you replace the scales.

I use Feibing's Pro dyes and an airbrush. I spray 91% isopropyl alcohol (obtain at the drug store - don't use the more common 70%) thru the airbrush, then remove the spray tip and needle, and soak the tip and airbrush (stand them up in a small glass bottle or jar) in alcohol for a couple of hours. The alcohol can generally be re-used if only slightly stained. The key is to get all the dye pigments out. I've never had to use anything but soaking to get the airbrush clean. With water-based finished, such as resolene, I use hot water instead. Never a problem and have been using the same airbrush for several years.

Yikes! Wishing here a smooth recovery this time around! I used to visit patients in their homes for a living when I was nursing. We didn't get to see the patients who had uneventful recoveries from surgery, of course, so I know what can go wrong! I also have diverticulitis. Haven't had an attack in 6 years. I'm fine if I stay away from things like nuts. Unfortunately , I REALLY love nuts. I can eat them in moderation, but sometimes I don't have the self-control I need. Last attack I had was triggered by being really hungry, and having free access to a large bag of peanuts...

There's an outfit in Italy that made tons of those. Sold by just about everyone. I don't remember the Italian maker unfortunately. If you need parts just call Randall/Campbell, they sold the same thing w their label on it. Probably could tell you the exact maker unless it's some kind of a "trade secret." I think FIPI made those Hudsons. They might not be in business any longer, I don't know. FIPI machines were pretty similar to Atoms. Manufacturers Supplies might be able to help with the manual. They sent me a PDF for an Atom a few years back.

It can take several runs of clean water through an airbrush to clean it. Clean immediately after using the airbrush. Dyes usually have alcohol in them as a carrier for pigments, and alcohol can degrade o-ring seals in the airbrush over time. A little isopropyl to clean the airbrush is fine, but again - don't let it sit with it in contact with rubber parts. Dye sitting in the airbrush works can evaporate quickly, leaving pigment behind. What I usually do is clean immediately after use with alcohol, followed by water. If the airbrush is to sit for any length of time, I disassemble it and use an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner with water and a drop of soap to clean, then put the parts out to let them dry. If the above cleaning tactics don't work, you may need to use the ultrasonic bath more often. - Bill

So I've been using Nasvidal's airbrush to dye my leather, but I'm stepping into a huge problem, and that's cleaning. Whenever I spray paint leather, this is how I work and clean: -isopropanol - brown dye - isopropanol - black dye - isopropanol - resolene - isopropanol. I always go from lightest to the darkest (even because of my designs) so I don't get any small blobs of previous dye thrown out, although I get sometimes a black mark while using resolene on finishing leather. Now I'm getting a huge huge problem with (mostly black) Fiebing's pro dye, since I cannot get it out of airbrush 100%. I've been changing airbrush guns every 6 months, as they are clogged and not even acetone can clean them up. Anyone knows how to properly airbrush leather and having an easy way of 100% cleaning it later on? Maybe using Fiebings dye reducer or that's not needed?

Very sharp! Hat making isn't even on my radar. If I did make one, it would be identical to the one you did. Nice work!

Welcome to the forum from SW Missouri. Look forward to seeing some of your FL inspired leatherwork.

Awesome work with what you have to work with. Man, get some files, nails, and bolts, and make some stamps. Elk horn looks great on those, if you can find some.