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Would these work???? kgg

Yes I use my 3D printer ( Bambu Lab x 1 Carbon ) for belt hole guides, stamps, table top attachments for Juki LS-341 and Juki TSC-441 clones, binding attachments, templates, hand press guides, molds for wet forming to name a few and on various other prototype items before turning it into a piece of equipment. I find 3D design and printing opens up avenues where something isn't available, it's more cost effective to 3D print or both. Stamps why pay $50 for a stamp when you can do it for 50 cents or less. kgg

Todd, I'm curious about your process for making that stamp as I'm assuming you either scanned the logo or photographed it? How did you turn it into the .stl file?

I'm trying to find a roller foot for a Singer 44-10. I bought one on Amazon but the arm the roller is attached to is too long and I'm not able to move it into position. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I can see where the one on the right could work well, the curving edge should allow for an easier/smoother slicing action. I might have to pinch the idea.

I just use regular PLA, for the depth I just experimented a couple times. I am not sure how many mm I am pressing it in. I will try to remember to take a picture of the stamp itself tonight and measure the depth on it. Todd

That's awesome! Do you use TPU or a different material for the stamp face? Also curious—how do you ensure the right depth and clarity for the imprint?

I use 3d Printing to make 1 off stamps. I have been doing some prizes for events and I was able to get the logo from the event and 3d print a stamp to customize the prize. I did not print the makers stamp just the Mark Allen Hampton Stamp on the left. Todd

It's definitely on my list to integrate into my work, but no pyrography experience on leather. Are you a trial and error guy or do you know any tutorials I should check out?

I've made all these from saw blades. I use the one on the right for skiving more than the rest although the two on the left work good, too, depending on the type of skiving I need to do. You can find good Japanese made knives of similar designs on ebay or Amazon that hold an edge well.

Hey everyone, I’ve been working on some custom fabrication ideas to make my leather belt projects a bit easier and more repeatable. So far, I’ve used a 3D printer to make edge beveling guides and a punch spacing jig, and I’m thinking of using a laser cutter to create acrylic templates for consistent belt tip shapes and buckle slots. Curious—anyone else using 3D printing or laser cutting to assist with leather belts or other projects? Would love to see how others are blending tech with traditional work!

Those are looking good, my friend. I haven't done many human portraits in leather, but I did do my Beagle. I used pyrography and less modeling. But i'll bet they could go well together.

Rather than post a new thread for each project (posted 2 in the show-off thread), figured I'd just start a thread I and others could add to. I'm learning to do portraits. I started down the rabbit hole doing comic book art carvings. I struggled with the faces, so started researching how to do it better and that effort expanded into pursuing realistic portraits. I've really enjoyed the learning process. I'm hoping this thread can turn into lessons learned, progress photos, and a place for others that may be pursuing the same goal to ask questions. My number one tool I've found besides practice is the videos from Elk Track Studios by Annie Libertini. I've downloaded and used those, but was also fortunate to be able to take one of her live classes in 2024 at Sheridan. The first photos here are a self-portrait of me and my wife and a portrait of CSM Billy Waugh. Annie recommends not doing portraits with teeth, as they look weird. After doing the self-portrait, I can confirm. Would definitely recommend not doing toothy smiles. CSM Billy Waugh is an amazing figure in military history. If you don't know who it is and you want to kill > 1 hour of time check out the video. (The video contains a lot of military humor / crass humor, so be forewarned).

However, if I have 2 stitch lines of equal length, the same spi and the same strength of thread, they have the same breaking breaking strength. I can see the argument that the saddle stitch might be more durable in the face of 1 broken thread. But 2 seams of the same length, same thread, same SPI and length should be equally strong. I'm not campaigning against the saddle stitch. I just don't see the persistent argument that it's "stronger". I think it's the same.

Everyone has a two arm pits . . . as well as a couple of opinions . . . and depending on the circumstances . . . they all stink. But in this debate . . . the saddle stitch will always be the better route . . . simply because even when one thread breaks . . . the other "may" still hold . . . any "non" saddle stitch does not have that backup. If the saddle stitch is done correctly with an overhand knot being tied in every hole . . . it is not only very time consuming . . . but it is also much stronger than any of the others. To say differently is only posting an ugly and stinky opinion . . . because it simply is a statement that does not hold water. Anyone with two pieces of leather . . . some thread . . . and two needles . . . can do the saddle stitch . . . and any or all others . . . and then put them all to a series of beat down tests . . . the saddle stitch will be the last one to give away . . . and that goes double if the thread was both waxed and the overhand knot tied at each stitch hole. May God bless, Dwight

I stick a bit of paper masking tape underneath my machine's feet to smooth out the teeth if needed. Most of the time I sew lightweight things and I use a very small walking foot (aound 2x3mm smooth footprint), which I think is intended to sew near zippers or around magnets/buttons.

The 2.5mm and 3mm washers do clinch onto the rivet shaft just like Burr Rivets. The 2mm washers are just a tiny bit too large on the ID, so they don't clinch, but I didn't find that made it any harder to use. If you bop the washer sideways with a tiny hammer, it can distort the hole enough so it does grab the rivet shaft.

Does anybody have one of these that could advise me what grade of oil it should use?

Might be some plates/feet/dogs that are smooth for that machine? There's a guy in Japan that makes wallets among other things and he uses Seikos with large knurled presser wheels. Wheel marks everywhere, but that's part of his trademark look. Just saying if you can't beat'em, maybe join'em?

I've used some Organ needles and they seemed to be overall a good needle. Schmetz are better overall but it is what it is. I've also bought them for hook and awl machines and in that regard they are just as good as any other.

Try going over the stitches with a polished leather hammer. Or a polished bone folder.

@Coloradoguy I recommend buying a second blade for your splitter, then you got a blade that can be sent out to be sharpened & you won't be without a splitter blade while 1 is being sharpened.

Probably because that's what I could find in the sizes I wanted. I've never had any problems I've blamed on a poor quality needle. My complaint is why label them with confusing, made up designations?

Thanks Jonas, I do know of that company in Omaha. Thanks Tom, I'll be reaching out to Bruce.

Can these sewing machine marks be minimized? I used Juki 1541. Thank you