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I approached a few local galleries, shopping my wallets around. Got good and useful feedback, and had one place take a dozen on consignment. All said my pricing was reasonable, quality adequate, and that from the retailer perspective. So it felt like a few compliments. I think I'll stitch a few while I think about it.

Interesting idea and concept! Is there a picture of the finished bag anywhere?

A celebrity designer reached out to us with a special request: create a full set of custom leather patches to cover an entire duffle bag. This piece is one of the 130+ embossed-and-embroidered leather patches we produced for the project. Each patch is made on genuine textured leather with precision embroidery to give it a raised, sculpted look. The details stay sharp, the edges stay clean, and the finish gives the bag a premium, handcrafted feel. It was a challenging build, but seeing all the patches come together across every side of the duffle bag made the effort worth it.

The knife has my utmost respect. Feeling a little better and wanted to tool a bit. Making a 1 inch hatband for a special hat. Not sure how it will be finished, painted or just antiqued. Waiting till 100% to get back on the wallet, hate to mess it up.

A gum eraser or "plastic" eraser does a pretty good job of removing excess contact cement. I apply cement sparingly, let dry for 5-10 min then warm it with a heat gun to "activate" the adhesive before assembly. Heating produces a strong bond with less cement.

Welcome to the forum! You need only post the details of what's happening or not happening, relevant details like thread and needle size, thickness of leather you're trying to sew. Any pictures will help. Do that and our global network of leather sewing consultants will offer the best advice anywhere.

I have a Pfaff 60 sewing machine it's in great working order and no issues. It has been a few months since I used it and now for some reason I can't get it to sew leather. Anyone who has this mechine and would be willing to assist me in troubleshooting I would greatly appreciate it.

There are a number of different center console designs. Probably need more information for a particular console. I made one that slips over the console lid and secures with elastic and velcro under the lid. Mine was for a bench seat with a fold down center console so the lid was pretty simple to cover.

1: don't use glue . . . use contact cement . . . put it on with a plumber's brush . . . (cheap metal handled / size of a pencil / buy at Harbor Freight in a bag) 2: it goes on both surfaces that are to be put together . . . let it get 95% dry . . . then put them together. 3: a minimum amount of care will keep it off where you don't want it. May God bless, Dwight

Welcome to the forum. Not knowing the history of that piece makes it tough It might be that it had something applied or spilled in those spots that prevents the conditioner from soaking in. It might evaporate with time. Maybe some time sitting out in the sun? How about a picture? Smarter people that I will certainly weigh in presently. Don't be in a rush.

One of the biggest temptations is to jump right in and start making more complicated pieces, before we have the knowledge and experience. It's a very common thing for beginner leatherworkers -- most of us have done it! One thing that will help you learn is good leather, especially if you want to learn tooling. Cheap leather will be frustrating, but you don't want to spend a lot of money on beautiful expensive leather yet (until you know what you are doing). So there should be a mid-range that will let you buy leather that you won't mind throwing away on practice pieces. Is there a leather supply store near you?

It is. Been posted before. Still fun to post.

Great cats. Cute, for sure. Consistent quality from one to another. Nice shading on the backgrounds, too.

Thanks I'll give one of them a try and for sure I'll post the goal.one day will be making batman mask I saw once at a ren fair .

Hey, if you ain't bleedin', you ain't tryin'. Nice work.

Hello, I got a used leather purse; soft leather, pink in colour. I used the honey leather cleaner and then next day used the honey leather conditioner. I accidentally got some large spots (size of palm) with too much conditioner and its been 2 days. The spot is very noticeable. Looks greasy/wet. Not sure if I should used the cleaner on the spot that it not absorbing the conditioner and start again. Thanks

Hey all, So I’m making a padded belt, but I’m wary of getting cement on the face/grain of the strap. Is there a way to protect/prevent it? I had the thought of just masking it off with tape, but in the past, tape has seemed to deglaze the grain. Thoughts? Thanks, and may you never burn your bacon. — AZR

I purchased this skiver 20 years ago and am now just putting it into use in my shop. I found the Catalogue and Price List of Parts but am looking to see if there is an operating manual available or has any knowledge of this machine. Obviously needs to be cleaned up which I plan to do. All parts are moving freely despite any obvious corrosion. Bell knife has section of surface rilusrlt on the portion that was facing the presser foot while in storage and hopefully I can just clean that up. Blade edge looks fine. Any help or hints greatly appreciated.

Thank you for the advice Wizcrafts. The sounds still persist even with the case opener off so I might try fiddling with the gears more.

Hi guys. I bought this machine for myself but honestly my space it s getting very small with it inside. I already have a FAV2 from the 80's that I rebuild myself and that s without a vacuum so takes little space. I prepared it like I do for my machines... Anyway, regarding the ad. Price is 1200 eur, excl shipping. from Romania. But I can arrange the transport inside the EU aprox for 250 eur. Machine model is FAV2 MA from 2007. Rebuilt by me with original FAV parts. And cleaned the table and drawers. The machine features a separate motor for the grinding device which is really awesome because it sharpens the knife so nice! The only thing that it "has" : the transport roller shaft, where the clutch is was shortened/grinded by the prev owner to have the clutch engaged all times - which is so stupid because you can actually use a screw that locks that in place. Anyways, in order to make it work again, I just used a washer in the clutch cap, where the clutch disc is, so I can compensate for that difference. In terms of function, it doesn t have any issue like this. VIDEO: What I replaced: - replaced all of the bearings except the oscillating one inside the transport shaft. That one is fine. - the cardan shaft - the articulated shaft that connects the gears to the roll. The older one was done - new transport roll and its shaft - new FAV knife with new grinding stone ofc - new gears - new grinder belt and new transmission belts. - new presser foot - new grinding device shaft, the one where the grinding stone is attached to - new rubber coupling . The piece that connects the knife shaft to the pulley Like I said everything works like new and skives really really nice. It comes with its manual and a thickness caliper and a scrap ejector rod made by me Machine is 380V but if you need to I can prepare it for 220v but the VFD s are on your expense...those cost quite a bit.

That looks strangely familiar .....

When we sell one of these we always buff off the feet if they are sewing leather & do the same on the Consew's too.They don't mark then.AFAIK there are no smooth feed dogs for them.

Thank you for your kind appreciation of my work. Passport cover. Cats.

You are correct, the feet are smooth. However, the dogs are very serrated.

I have one Singer 18-2, that is ment for different job shoes, slippers etc.. I want to keep 2 main machines. One being the Singer for its purpose(shoes, slippers etc..) Second one for flat surfaces wallets, bags.