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That looks great! What wax did you use for the outer finish?

Thank you, There is something special to walk where things happened, I love history. Finished the tooling, waiting on the antique to dry. Will finish in the morning. Had to much open space on the rear to leave.

I saw this little thingy at Aldi and for $15 just had to buy one. Rechargeable rotary cutter, says it can cut up to 1/4". I tried it on a piece of old saddle skirt, 1/4" thick and quite hard, and it cut it nicely. The blade is interesting as rather than being round it is octagonal so has sharpened "points". Could be useful for softer leathers.

@TakashiOkada Your internal measurements almost correspond to a Landis blade. I am getting the measurement of 19.4mm on the internal on my landis blade . Search for Landis or Sutton . They are interchangeable . I believe the British machines also take the same blade measurements . Now lets talk about saftey of your machine or lack there off .That blade needs a safety guard. You are one slip away from losing a finger and thumb . I saw it happen 30 Years ago to a co worker . His hand was a mess and he never worked again . Just looking at your machine gives me PSD and makes me feel weak in the stomach . Please do something about it .Please

Customer wanted non Shiney. 8/9 Hermann Oak Dark and Light brown fiebings 207 bonded nylon top and bottom Cobra class 3 I finished the I side with 100 %resolene, then just wax on top. Lefty...

Check the holster section. Finished the inside with 100% resolene, then just a wax on the outside. 8/9 Hermann Oak Dark and light brown fiebings dye 207 bonded nylon top and bottom Cobra class 3

Grew up in Texas. Been to the Alamo several times. Nice work.

Wanted to try some Celtic inspired carving. This will be a field notes cover.

Thanks! that's a great idea, and it comes exactly where I thought where the problem was, a run-on or overrotation after a brutal stop which makes some lack... I'll check where this is available!Thanks a lot! Now with all this, on the STW-8B, we have lost the Mitsubishi DU-105 subject...:-) Edit: "Some slack":

On thin leather I use water or tokenol and a piece of canvas or denim. You can hold the leather edge right close to the edge of your bench to help keep it from flapping around too much. Those thin edges really don't need much slicking, and edge paint is too much hassle IMO. To make paint shine it takes sanding between coats.

or the needle bar it set a bit to high. I´d check the whole needle hook timing.

I'd advance the shuttle a bit so the tip arrives a little higher above the needle's eye.

@Zonker62 I always load my bobbins so they unload against the direction of the slit under the tension spring. That sharp turn adds some tension but helps keep the thread under the spring. If your bobbin suffers from run-on rotation, get an "anti-backlash spring." Some are round and some are star shaped. They simply drop in under the bobbin and hold onto it as the shuttle spins. They bring the bobbin to a better halt when you stop and start rapidly.

either I haven't noticed it or it has been added lately 😉 no big deal....

Hello everyone. My husband is forcing me to downsize my studio of my various Shoemaking machines. I have a few Landis machines and i am listing: - Landis L stitcher for sale and pick up $2200 and - Landis K stitcher for sale and pickup $2200 I also have historic non safety clicker from the 1920s. It is a beast of a machine and interesting. I will post photos later on this thread. I am clearing and downsizing my 1200 sq studio to 300 feet so I need to sell these wonderful machines now. We got them in delivered using a small forklift and we have pallets if your trucking person or you need any to get these guys on easily - no stairs and long drive for a truck to come right to the wide 10 foot doors. hope someone gets to use and enjoy these.

Also shows Saskatchewan Canada in his profile.

You can post this in the Marketplace forum here on LW.

I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines.

that's where certain feet come into play with which you can sew closer to hardware - of course depends on the sewing situation and on your machine but they can be useful. Check the links in this thread:

It's kind of the opposite here. I have a trail network through and around town that I like running. It's sled trails, mixed with city trails. The winter arriving opens up SO much more trail. Every lake can be crossed, all the swamps are runnable. Even Truck Lake (where the trucking company stages their ice road loads) can be crossed, and it's fun to see the b-trains stretching the ice down, as they idle on the ice surface. For the last week or two, I've been avoiding bringing my dog on runs, because while good-looking, Ethyl isn't smart about ice, and would fall through somewhere. She doesn't mind being wet, but dogs can fall through in dangerous places. I know a few people who have lost dogs that way. Anyway, the ice is pretty much in now, at least around the edges. I'll wait til I see trucks rolling across the big lake, but for now, all my alternate trails are open! I may not describe it well enough. I strongly suggest joining me for a long run, sometime between late December and April. Headed out to the craft sales today. Going to look at it with an eye to possibly starting with that kind of venue myself. Wish me luck! Pic from years ago. Those sealhide overmitts are still in service as running mitts. Their 'patina' is nearly progressed enough to call it rot, but I still like them.

In this short video Tim Alden of Alden Leather Supply shares a neat trick for sewing next to hardware. Wish I'd thought of this. He makes sewing sideways look easy. I've used hand sewing, different presser feet, and backing up towards the hardware to get the hardware sewn in tight. Any other tips to share? https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1Bcjp74xtc/

The narrow groove of a power bunisher works well, or using canvas with the leather lying flat on a smooth/slick surface and working the edge.

Hi everyone! I am trying to burnish/close/round the edges of my calfskin leather patches before machine stitching them on to denim. I bought the little wooden tool and the tokonole, but the leather is very thin and has been quite flimsy and I have a feeling this is done a different way. I have attached a sample photo that depicts another brand, which has managed to soften/close the edges of their very thin leather patches. I have heard the term "edge paint" floating around, but this picture makes it appear like some physical was done to the edges, perhaps in addition to edge paint or some other gum/glue sealant. Please let me know if you know how I can achieve this finish. Thanks!

This is why I keep a pair of channel lock pliers on my bench.