All Activity

Wanted a tobacco pouch, the catch was finding the proper liner to keep the moisture in and maintain flavor. Had to hand sew due to the one piece design. The zipper wasn't possible to seperate causing the issue, plus working on a way to hold it together while using the pricking irons my line wobble. Will try it out and think of ways to improve the process.

I will post a new-and-improved video of the bobbin, but I've been trying to figure out the safety clutch, and there does not seem to be much info on this particular style online, and I don't see it discussed in the manual. The 3 attached pictures show the 2 set screws and an end view. I assume that the 3 screws in the end view determine the force needed to disengage. The only picture of these in the manual (Fig. 65) shows them flush with the end, but on my machine they are turned all the way in. If my assumption is correct, I think I'll experiment with different settings to get a better feel for the disengagement/re-engagement.

It finally warmed up enough to paint it so I'm calling it finished. I can now see how to make a better one, a bit smaller and neater.

So far so good! Here is an example of the type of stitching that would make it skip like crazy before. That is, stitching a puffy thing with the puff mostly on the opposite side from the hook. (I suspect this is in part because there is some play in the rock bar bushings.) But it nailed every stitch this time

Nicely done article, your products are natural and sold in CAD funds. kgg

Thanks for taking time to respond. I am on my next project, will definitely apply these techniques.

Sounds good thanks !

I did get the hook back in the machine, but it's not adjusted yet. I need to bend the hook's needle guard so it doesn't protrude out so far, now that the hook has been filed. I have not figured out a good way to adjust needle guards. I've seen people use a screwdriver as a pry bar, pressing against the machine head. I've done that in the past, but it felt clunky. Not finding something good to press against today, so may need a custom tool. Or maybe pry against the feed dog support 🤷‍♂️

How does it work after sharpening?

Here is the after photo: I can see now that the camera is not looking directly down the hook axis. Oh well..at least the before and after shots got the same treatment 🤷‍♂️ I faced the inside and outside edges of the hook using a diamond sharpening stone. Stone is 25x75x6 millimeters, on a 320mm stick of oak.

Considering that I couldn't find much for references, I agree that sharpening a hook is uncommon. I'm satisfied with the hook-to-needle timing, and I want a sharp hook with useful angles. So here we go... Here's the before photo, so you can see how rounded the tip of this hook is. Also note that the hook tip is positioned directly above the center of the hook in this photo, so you can imagine the arc swung by the hook as it intercepts the thread/needle.

I may be wrong (I have limited experience on machines), but I don't think sharpening the hook is common practice. I would think that the hook/needle interaction is more a matter of timing. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

You asked that before:

Thank you for that. 🙂

needle two small for 138 thread, Go to a 140/#22. glenn

Seeing your burb makes me think of my landys. 'sigh' . I have 3 of them Your burb looks so good btw 👍 Atm I am ' resource rich and time poor' , that's my latest catch phrase . There's so many things I'd love to do but no time to do them , including playing with my 'toys' . Yeh , that barby works great 👍 It's Fathers Day here in Oz on Sunday, 7th September. So I'll be doing a roast lamb and vegies, and with champers😋 I got him a Vincent Black Shadow motorcycle model, for fathers day , like the one he had in the uk , and I once rode in ( the side car ) when I was a baby. I sat on mums lap. It was all black with red leather interior, I still remember how it looked and smelt, i don't know how I remember that, i just do, that's weird. HS

Something that's new if you are coming from domestic sewing machines is that you have to hold the top thread when you start a seam. Here's what I do: Move the takeup lever to the highest position. (Otherwise the takeup lever will steal the top thread from you when you commence stitching) Insert material under presser foot Lower presser foot Hold top thread in place while you make your first two or three stitches, then you can release the top thread At the end of your seam, again move the takeup lever to the highest position to set the last stitch before you remove the material Sometimes instead of merely holding the top thread in place, I actually preload the top thread until the thread check spring deflects, then hold in that position to start the seam. If you choose to do this advanced option, because your middle presser has an open cutout on the right side you will need to have the top thread going down under your middle presser foot and out the the left. (My middle presser has a full round hole so I can pull mine any direction without deflecting the needle)

Do you have a manual? Here is one I found on manualslib: pfaff-491-471-manual.pdf Page 11-33 shows how to adjust the pressure of the roller presser. You may also want to check the height of the feed wheel, that's on page 11-18.

Thanks, I’m still working on it, I think there’s also a tension issue.

Ok so I timed it accordingly to the 2mm specified for the 345. I was able to slide the bobbin base a bit forward to that the hook is closer to the needle. Good news is that I’m starting to get something that looks like stitches but there’s still entanglement. Here’s a video to the issues I’m having at the moment. IMG_9295.mov

If what @CowboyBob told us about the 111W machines holds true, at this point of the needle stroke (all the way down) the point of the hook should be on an imaginary line between the center of the bobbin and the needle plate screw closest to the operator. This one is late or early, depending. In case the viewer can't tell, the point of this hook is right next to the bobbin latch on the opposite side.

That's the only thing I'm envious of in the US,the space. Must be great. Thanks for the cool on the hat.

I have published a complete guide, it is more complete than my OP: https://birchees.ca/how-to-make-salmon-leather-updated-method/

oh yeah, the Dixon club bar on a Saturday night would test your endurance for sure lol. It's very cool I love the look, color, and excellent work but probably not something you could wear here without some feedback.

Some nicely creative stuff going on there. Welcome aboard!