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The folks at The Steel Stamp Co tweaked my logo to make a small impression. Very happy with their work.

Looking for recommendations on a trainer gun to build a holster, without having the actual gun. Building a rig for a 1911 .45 acp and was wondering if anyone knew a good resource for these. Thanks in advance!

@Mulesaw Thanks, Jonas. I agree that it's up to the rider to fit their tack correctly. At FEI sanctioned events they've begun checking noseband tightness prior to horses entering the ring. I guess that new rule got the attention of the keyboard warriors. I do add a leather flap under the buckle of a simple cavesson to pad the buckle. The leather flaps under the dee rings of this crank bridle are a bit unwieldy. Next I plan to use a smaller dee ring and contour the flap differently.

Looks like not much action on this question. I'm not qualified to answer it but I'll suggest maybe canvas. If you've got a craft store near by, it might be worth stopping by. Joann's is no more, but something on that scale. Quiltingboard.com is as pretty friendly place, at least the sewing machine subforum, maybe someone there could help out. On second thought, maybe you could find some of those inexpensive shopping bags everyone seems to love so much and harvest what you need from them ...? EDIT: Well, you said it was plastic like, feed bags are some kind of woven plastic. And since we're now fabric shopping at Tractor Supply, how about a tarp? They come in a small selection of colors, maybe one of those would suit your needs. Or, maybe a garden center would have an anti weed tarp?

I haven't looked through my copy yet. That looks like a fun project.

Best I can tell 2.8 point is just under 1mm and from my experience 1.2mm is a good minimum width for clear stamping but this depends on the overall stamp somewhat. Thinner at the end of lines and in some texts it can still work fine.

The scarf (the little notch on the needle) faces towards the hook.

Hi Tom Beautiful looking bridle! We had a Micklem bridle for my wifes horse, and that had the same system, I was always of the impression that it was made purely to protect the horse from having a buckle gnawing directly to the skin under the jaw (where as you know there isn't a lot of meat to add natual padding). Also having the buckle directly on the skin has the potential of gripping some hair from the horse, especially in the winter time where the hair s long (It might be a bigger problem in Scandinavian winters than in e.g. Florida) I have never heard anyone complaining or bad mouthing the system, but I am not on FB, and that might filter some of the most enthusiastic voices 🙂 As I see it, you can still overtighten a cavesson noseband, but if you are a skilled rider - you make sure that your equipment is fitted correct anyway, and then it won't matter if your system allows for tightening more or less. Brgds Jonas

I just designed a logo so I can start stamping my work. I have a line in the logo that is 2.8 pt, so before I go any further I just want to make sure this will be visible/clear when stamped. I'm new to stamping so any help is appreciated! Thank you!

I agree veesee, it does look better but I have to be honest and say that with more practice, you can get better. There are gaps or voids between the layers in some places. I am not sure what is creating this. It could be the type of glue that you are using, not using enough glue or not applying enough pressure after gluing... I'm just not sure. It could be the leather itself. I have had crumbly leather that looked like that. You are at least half-way there. Glad to see your effort. It's definitely an improvement. What type of glue are you using?

Well done. Randy

I use poundo board or scrap leather.

Just a curious question . . . if someone was to send you a "pattern" . . . made of plastic . . . cut out on a computer based machine . . . of an exact personal buckle . . . would you be up to making that buckle? I'm thinking of the American Western buckle type . . . May God bless, Dwight

Well, KGG pointed out that your needle is in backwards. It's a wonder it stitched at all! You're definitely inside the 5 yard line but those last couple yards can be a grind. Spin the needle around and see how it goes. It's got to help. And It seems that the needle isn't well centered in the hole, so you'll want to address that at some point.

I've been ordering belts from amazon. Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Classic-Wrapped-Outside-Circumference/dp/B0DR767RWV You can also get them in white: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BK1FQHRR Other options include adding a wooden block between the table and the motor (a spacer) so you can use the longer belt. This may require longer bolts though. Or 3D printing a larger machine pulley, which has the added benefit of slowing it down and increasing torque. Lots of folks have swapped clutch motors to servo motors. Any particular questions you have about the swap?

How are you and the machine doing? You mentioned a tension issue. Once you start holding the top thread when you start a seam, if there are still loops on the bottom then you need to add more top tension. I should have mentioned that before.

I'm about to attempt the same thing - may I ask, what thread did you use and do you recall the brand/color of pigskin? I was going to try kangaroo for strength and try to get the color to match but best to go with the original. thanks for posting!

It seems to me that the internet is full of "experts" on nearly every subject these days. JM2C, Jim

The sept/Oct issue of the learher crafter's journal had this neat little sheath by Gabor Pinter. I thought I'd have a go at it.

Does anyone know what this black material is, and where to buy it? I'm making a couple dozen briefcase inserts, and I need some kind of backing for stitching pockets. The ones the customer has today have a black backing shown here, that feels like it has an almost plastic feel to it. This is the sample they gave me, and I'm supposed to make something similar. I've tried bookbinder board but it needs another backer behind the backer - like leather scrap. So that's extra cost to glue a strip of leather to the book board, and extra work. It's also not ideal in case someone drops a drink on it. Thanks!

Hi everyone. I'm new to the landis 3. Just got one last week. I'm trying to stitch some harness traces that are about 5/8" thick. I want to move the presser foot up in height a bit. Does anyone here know how to do that? I have a manual and it makes no sense to me. I've gone over it so many time now my brain hurts. I simply can see anywhere on here for adjustment. Thanks for any help on this. Brian Merrick

Interesting. I thought dog fanciers are a friendlier bunch. Perhaps it’s a sign of the times.

Here are the dimensions of the new CS Osborne #151 bag/slot/oblong punches.

There was discussion recently which included talk about large oval punches for holsters I can't remember where it was or by whom, but if I find it I'll post a link edit; check this thread out

I moved your post to leather sewing machines