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A billion thanks to you! That was it. I've aligned the cams correctly and the bobbin and needle are working together! I am very grateful for the time you spent on this. On to tuning tensions!

I agree with dikmann - we have a topic her about Singer SV machines:

Thanks for posting this. It looks very nice. Also, this is the first tobacco related project that I have been able to find on leatherworker.net. With all the leather products that I have seen on etsy I would have thought that more tobacco related products would be found here.

Yes it is. The Singer 153 was out first. glenn

Do not need the screw that I have ever found. Just the plug. glenn

Yes it was. glenn

Maybe it is an SV model, these are notorious for having little, if any, information available about them?

If it's a 144 you may get a little insight here: https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html

Chuck made a good point about the powder in particular catching at the join, and don't forget plastics are notoriously difficult to glue. You might have to consider a "sandwich" layer, trapping the plastic between leather?

I agree with JLS. Custom order and get exactly what you want, no compromising. I also second his recommendation for Texas Custom Dies. Good people and good service.

At the size needed I'd go for one to use with a press

Have not found a perfect match between my this machine and one of the 144 submodels. In most respects it appears to be a Singer 144w103. That is, it has ten inches to the right of the needle, single needle, 8-inch hand wheel, 7x3 needle system, with stitch length regulation done by turning a screw on the feed eccentric. But this machine appears to have the reverse mechanism from the 144w305, which is "controlled by a treadle" see this manual: https://web.archive.org/web/20190820161643/http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/144W305.pdf So I could call it "144w103 with the reverse mechanism from 144w305" or "a 10-inch version of the 144W305".

Totally appreciate your input. You bring up valid points. Yes he is picky, but easy going too, and he definitely uses some really nice high end custom shotguns, among many other types of firearms. Five figure guns that are specifically made to his measurements. I love his collections, but they're so far out of reach for someone like myself lol. I was thinking if using veg tan with leather hardener as an option. It was his suggestion to use the plastic in the first place, and handed me a couple small sheets to use. I do have to consider the thickness of it all coming together at the chargers because it's a friction mount, and I believe their original pistol l purpose was to be used with horn. I did and will tap and use matching brass set screws. I was wanting to find a better solution than plastic. I will glue, and stitch whatever I decide to go with for that reason. I made the first one in a way that build up shouldn't be bad but not impossible of course. It's going to happen some. I have to stitch it all together in a specific order to make any overlapping pieces fit as flat as possible. Making sure the overlap is like a roof, working from the bottom so that things will flow like water. Thanks for the suggestions

osborne tools definitely not what they used to be. not even close. I'm gonna recommend you have your punch made to what you want at Tx Cust Dies. Just let em know what you want - they'll fix it up. Get them with a handle, for punching with a mallet, or without a handle, for use in a press.

Last Christmas I was asked to make 4 belts . . . I told her how . . . and STRESSED it needed to be measured correctly. I have 3 of the 4 in my shop . . . you guessed it . . . wrong dimensions. I'll "fix" them . . . basically using the original poster's idea. But like another said . . . it's almost as tough to "re do" work as it is to do it in the first place. May God bless, Dwight

That is true, if It was mine I would probably do that

Beautiful. The grip could be changed to complement the holster a nice mahogany and tan where the diamond area is on his current grip.

Haha, thanks. I personally like no accessories. Maybe a red dot or something would be ok.

Stunning work! Your meticulous care to detail is awe inspiring!

Outstanding!

I like it!! The expanded metal may be a trifle newer than medieval lol. heck yeah clean it up and season with oil.

I meant the shuttle driving lever 😉 but I guess you know what I mean.

Hi My roommate left her rain-soaked coat on top of my leather jacket (on the same hanger). As a result, the upper part of my jacket has darkened considerably. I've only just noticed it because I hadn't worn this jacket until today, so it's been a little over a week... Considering that, and given what I read in other posts, I feel like this might be impossible to fix now. I don't know much about leather so I'd like to know what you guys think. Thanks a lot!

Just my two cents, but here's how I see it. I've shot a lot of bp and been around bp folks. They are particular about their sport, they do it for a reason. You say this fellow is a collector and real bp buff. Well then i would scratch a big no about fixing this with plastic of any kind. I can tell you now he probably wouldnt like it. His double barrel is probably worth about 3 grand or so and he hunts and uses it specifically because it is a reminder of the past, he can buy cheap crap on the net, but he chooses not to for a reason. My advice is still thicker veg tan around the nozzle. I think it will actually be easier than plastic in the long run and will retain its shape if you seal it well. Taking the easy way out may shoot you in the foot on this one. Collectors are picky folk. Bp folk and their accouterments are in an era that didn't include plastic lol. Either way small shot and black powder will build up between the funnel and the leather if you don't glue it or get a really good tight fit and good luck on your project!!!