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  2. You bet! Hoyer is a big manufacturer of medical transport devices and I think first made the patient lift, hence the name. Now this is showing off... how I got in and out of my truck!
  3. Thanks for your opinion JLS. I have to agree, I think 6spi is excellent for most holsters. I am regretting spending so much money on the 5spi irons. Should have tried some cheap 5spi irons first. Live and learn! Love that brown holster you are showing there.
  4. That had to take a long time to post and I’m sure everyone here appreciates it! I wish I could get a copy of that book, wow!😃
  5. Today
  6. I second the notion that the best water repellency you can get is with Resolene (or Mop & Glo cut 50/50 with water). This is an acrylic film layered on your leather. It can be damaged and it is not 100% water proof forever but it is far better than any other top coat for this purpose.
  7. Hi Judo, I am interested in the Landis 5 in 1 (item 19), do you have a price in mind for that item? Also, would need to ship it to Charlotte, NC. Thanks! Tobby
  8. Hi there, i have a Pasofino and use the Imus 4 beat gaited saddle that works quite well. My horse is about 15 hands. Be sure to watch directions on where to put the saddle because it’s much more forward. Good luck!
  9. Wot he said It must have taken you ages Thanks for doing it and sharing it I'll peruse it all properly later when I have some more time spare
  10. I get 'lift-the-dot' fasteners from a sailing supplier. I don't need no special tool. They have wee tabs which go through the leather and a backing support plate which I bend over by pushing on them with a screwdriver than lightly finish by tapping them down
  11. Was going to suggest "Pull-the-Dot" brand snaps but just discovered that they require a special tool to set them. $124.
  12. Did you find a punch? If not, here is my recommendation. Most belts are 1 3/4" wide, so add a little and make your punch 1 13/16". Most belts will fit 1/4" slot but give it an extra 1/16", so 5/16" wide is good. So, final answer is, minimum... 1 13/16" by 5/16". BTW, I use a 4lb. hammer for this punch. You are in Texas, so I would recommend Texas Custom Dies... good people. http://www.usacuttingdie.com This is the style that I have. If you have a clicker, that's different.
  13. Fully agreed. Leather work takes me to a different place.
  14. WOW!! That is an impressive task you have done here. Thanks for sharing 🙂 Brgds Jonas
  15. Here are photos of every page of a 1940-1950's era US Navy Leathercraft Manual. It includes patterns, locations to purchase supplies, and much more. I tried to take the best photos I could, if you want a close up of something let me know and I will try to accommodate.
  16. Definitely handier, if you have one. Alternative methods are good to know.
  17. @GerryR a good way, but when trying to find the centre point to put a snap on a leather flap say a ruler is handier
  18. btw, the magnet is glued on the inside of the leather 'key fob' pieces
  19. The logo for this ruler is a square with a centre point arrow and the brand name of the ruler is Center Point which is sold by US Tape Company. I figure it was placed at the 5.5" mark just to confuse the hell out of people as it has nothing to do with measurements. kgg Nah, it's a short foot sorta like a short ton (2000lbs). kgg
  20. He got his ruler at a discount, only 11" long!
  21. I am lost. Isn't the center point of 12 inches, 6 inches? So why is it 5.5 inches here? I use thread. Cut to exact length of object, fold in half, hold from one end and... Voila!
  22. I do believe that you have given me the courage to attempt such shenanigans. And thanks for the bookmark suggestion, definitely works for my primary market here in town!
  23. As far as your steel rule and hoop go, if I’m translating Aussie to American correctly, that rule is what I would call flat bar stock, and hoop would be steel strap at our “big box hardware stores” (aka Home Depot). If so, the hoop would probably be way too soft to hold form under a press. If you happen to have a forge, I suppose it *may* be possible to heat it and use some Cherry Red to case harden it once you shape it. (As a gun guy, I assume you might be familiar with it, but it’s basically gun bluing but for the brownish color instead of blue-black). If you don’t have one, you might be able to slip one under the missus’s nose if you build it yourself (I built my coal forge for about $50, well less than the cost of my anvil, and my 1st propane forge is made from an old propane cylinder and the guts of an old gas grill. But you didn’t hear that from me… 😉). And metalwork and leather have always gone together hand in hand. Wow I went way off topic really fast. I’m assuming that you have checked with metal supply houses (the commercial variety that supply pipes/rebar/i-beams/etc), welding supply shops, blacksmiths, co-op forges, farriers, farm/tack supply shops, and web forums. (Just the sources I can think of to at least get a lead to work from.) But I have been told that common things here are not-so-common there. Oh! BBQ/smoker fabricators! Might even be able to get some of there scrap (though there’s no such thing as scrap steel. Just ask a blacksmith 😁. No I’m not a blacksmith, just a bumblesmith…) Ooh squirrel! My daughter got me a little Vevor 1-burner forge, and it’s actually my primary forge now. I think she found it while it was on sale for ~$100. 10/10 recommend. Might even get hotter than my 2-burner. Thank you, I have a difficult time finding what I’m looking for through the 100’s/1000’s of search results!
  24. Hi everyone! Recently I bought online this Singer 29k1 sewing machine but there is a problem. As I start sewing the presser foot won't pull back the fabric underneath it, basically it turns out that the machine sews in the same point. Can somebody help me out? I will post a link with the photos. Also I noticed that the bar with the stitch length doesn't have numbers and signs on it regulating the length.
  25. That might be because "Joe Kidd" was set in the early 1900's. JM2C, Jim
  26. Yup - I'm not mindin' this at all Maybe only thing ... I'd punch a small slot on the one with the buckle where the tongue goes ... leavin that dimple in the leather. That little 'bump' is distracting from the look of your otherwise nice lookin holster GOOD news is, it aint too late -- unbuckle, punch, done ...
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