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I have only beveled the flesh side on very thick (think armor thick) pieces, which are one piece of leather. Two pieces of leather, sewn together, are sewn flesh to flesh, so only the grain side needs bevelling.

LOL, Wiz! I recently traded in my 2010 Rav4 with 230,000 km. on it for a newer one. The only problem I had that wouldn't qualify as routine maintenance was a front ball joint needed replacing. Oh, and I managed to rip the bumper off one day by catching it on the tire of a parked truck... The truck was totally unharmed, fortunately.

Two minutes.

For you, I will hunt down the setting and see if we can go lower. ha ha

LOL not going for bling here. But LOTS of bulleted lists. You might laugh when you see it. 🏁

Thank you Thank you Thank you, there are quite a few different ones out there. I love the braid work, on my list to learn someday.

Hi, having some 269w troubles here as well. It’s been running fairly well for me for about 10 years, but fell out of time and I cannot get it back no matter how hard I try (I have sunk many hours at this point) Does anyone know a good mechanic w/269 experience in the NYC area? Thanks

akin to the bandolier is a baldrick (no, not that one!) and I made a few of those. Simple straight cut belting with an over-lap join at the hip and a loop for the scabbard

I saw this beautiful bag online. A lot of work went into it clearly. I suspect resist was used in the block dyeing way and then the black dye. Has anyone done this and is there a different technique? It certainly looks gorgeous.

I'll aim to wait three minutes in between replies if I mean them to be separate posts. 👍

There's an auto timer that merges posts made back to back. I think it's at 3 minutes? I'll have to check. It's to prevent clutter, from the old days when we had dial up connections and got interrupted, I suppose. Maybe tag each person you're replying to if it's in the same thread?

Thanks for the replies guys. Let me start by saying that this idea is just for cosplay/steampunk type use. Apart from anything else few over here could afford a bandolier full of 17 Hornet ammo. Not many own a 17 Hornet because our laws dictate that you have to have the land or permission to shoot land before you can have one and at around 3600fps there's not much land left that hasn't been carved up in one way or another that can take that range. As you can see a normal belt size won't do it. After reading these replies I realise that they don't need straps and buckles etc. Just fix the bottom end however and throw it over the shoulder. If it looks good I'll do another to go over the other shoulder.

I’m looking to repair an older CWD with a wood tree - need to reattach the stirrup bar on one side, what size rivets will I need?

Nice update! Did you mean bottom hole instead of bottom disk?

Is there a way I can prevent multiple successive posts from being merged into one? On this thread: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/131170-consew-225-loose-stitches-on-circle/#comment-780786 I replied to kgg Then I replied to wiz. (Separate messages for each) But when I clicked "save" on the second message, it said the items had been merged.

Here's how my top is threaded.

I got mine as a ring clamp. It is large but it is more comfortable to work with than a small one would be. Just because rings are small there is no reason why the clamps for them should be tiny too. This one holds rings well, which is why I bought it but it holds leather straps just as well.

Remember the excesses of the 90's when the kiddies discovered all the things they could do could inflict on us with HTML? Don't do that ...

A bandolier is NOT cut like a belt curve. A belt is made to go around your total round waist . . . the bandolier only needs a curve where it goes over the shoulder. The easiest and least costly way is to make the shoulder curve . . . then lace the edges of it and the two straight pieces (front and back) . . . decorate the curve with appropriate stampings for the person or time period the bandolier would be used. The straight pieces overlap at the bottom with a snap or a rivet. May God bless, Dwight

I rarely bevel the flesh side. I usually skive it thin and bevel the grain side after I've glued and/or sewn the project together

Hey all! So I’ve read/watched a few sources saying to bevel the flesh side before the grain, but none have said WHY… Any help from the peanut gallery? thx, AZR

There was once a fashion for reproduction Elizabethan Tudor ring purses. These could be used for holding the ring whilst the bag of the purse was sewn on. Tandy used to sell the rings

Thank you for the suggestion. It is another one I'm looking for, lol.

Maybe for bracelets?

Good job on those old tailor's shears! I agree they are worth fixing if you can. For sure there would be a market, but I think the key will be effective communication. In just about any hand-tool driven craft or trade, there's always a big range between guys who will do everything with a plastic butter knife, and guys who think you need a million special tools, each one slightly different for slightly different demands (and some only used on Tuesdays). Both ends of the spectrum (and every point in between) has guys who feel clueless and would believe anything you tell them, and guys who will die before giving up their one true way of doing things, and honestly every one of them is "right" if they can do the work they do. I think the trick when it comes to selling any tool in that environment is to clearly explain what and why your product is and how it can help, but avoid claims of authority unless you can back it up with your own AND others experience, while also leaving room for other perspectives. You'll always have guys that think you are wrong or trying to rob them. I think good products should sell themselves and good salesmen just provide information and let you make your own decisions. For sure you need to learn from the masters before you, but the water gets muddy when that master is also trying to sell you things, no mater how helpful or necessary they are. All that said, my take is that there's no "one-tool" to do it all, but it helps having redundancy and overlap in tools. I think good craftsmen have preferred methods and methods that they turn to when necessary, AND they're always learning and looking for other ways to do things better. When cutting thick and heavy leather, shears are not the first thing I reach for, but they can be really helpful when making adjustments to things after assembly or away from the workbench, like cutting flat belting for powering machinery like they were designed for. I think I've got a pair like in the first picture and they come in handy. In this case, the tool isn't "new" but is less common. You shouldn't have to worry about promoting your design as much as bringing the proven concept to a broader market, while also toting that they are hand crafted so the level of quality can be expected to be a little higher than factory made pieces.