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We're a family of Scrabble nuts and I've just finished making this Scrabble bag as a 30th birthday present for my son. The board itself is a leather circle with metal pins to hold the letters in place (aluminium for "power squares", eg, double letter, copper for the rest). The board is folded round a 4" cylinder (made with box-stitched and piped ends) and attached to it with studs, the cylinder holds letters, racks, etc., plus anything else you might want to carry! All stitching is either saddle stitch or box stitch. Having done a bit of woodwork over the years I'm new to leatherwork, and struggling a bit to get used to it: I'm using a block plane and fat (2") japanese steel chisel for skiving, cutting with a laser cutter (CNC machine with blue LED laser), I find the plane and chisel easier to handle and to sharpen than leather work tools such as French skiver (Also struggling a bit with health to be honest: aged 62, 12y Parkinsons Disease, major back surgery 2y ago). Anyway, my assessment is that round board is OK-ish, but edge finishing not great; cylinder looks not so great, box stitch is pretty hard ...

Hi fellow leather workers, I'm Tove09Tilda, 25 years old and from Germany. I started leather work when I was 15 by bedazzling Dog collars and horse wear, but ditched it for some time until I was about to finish my master degree in 2024. That's actually when the real journey started. I was traveling back to Sweden to get my degree (I studied in Sweden) and have a nice dinner with my fellow classmates and, well, with my dog. I knew that this was not a usual evening and of cause, when I was wearing something special, she also had to. So I started checking the pet stores in my area including an outlet of a big german brand, with sort of good reputation. In the end I found nothing that felt like "us" or was up to the quality that I was searching for. Following, I contacted a former supplier, who offered custom dog collars. That's when I learned that she produced in India and the collar would take weeks, if not even month, as it would have been included in a bulk order. And as I wrote my master thesis in cooperation with a very nice woman from Pakistan, with friends in the leather Industry … Let's phrase it that way: Production in India felt wrong! Especially for the price that was quoted (40€ including shipping (within Germany between 6 and 7€). Let's be real here - you don't need to be an economist to know that this price is unrealistic, when you expect fair wages. Unsatisfied, I started to remember that I had all the tools, that I knew how to saddle stitch and that there was literally no excuse to not try it for myself. That's basically when I got hooked again. I made a simple, plain dog collar, dyed it blue with angelus acrylic leather dye and called it a day, just to then teach myself how to make padded collars, make running loops, and of cause, making dog collars until my hands were full of blisters, but my stitches became more and more neat. Last year I also made my first handbag ( a little bit of a challenge at first! Due to all the backing needed!). That was the point where people in my surroundings started to suggest that I should try to become a saddler. When I couldn't find a job after my MBA, the original idea was indeed to try to become a saddle maker. My education wouldn't go to waste and I could follow my plan B. The economy made a big cross through the plan - unfortunately. Most saddles don't take apprentices at the moment or I got told I was better off with my MBA. Still without a job offer on the horizon, I at least find some peace in making collars and some occasional bags and belts. By now I make all the collars for our dogs, as well as leashes and also do some collars for friends, if asked to. My next projects are a dog harness for my little dog, two new collars for our dogs (finally matching for once!), and a martingale/ half-checker collar for my dog. Thanks for reading! And I hope to learn more by reading and observing the work of others in this forum! Best Tove

As somebody mentioned already, try tightening your foot pressure tighter. Want Lil tiny bit i have sewn woven strap material, it seems the foot slips some on the material & misses a stitch. You could be pushing or feeding the project thru instead of letting the machine doing it.. That could have been my problem as well. I think by increasing foot pressure it minimizes the problem.

Hi all - I found an Adler 67-372T at the Goodwill Bins and an Adler 67-GA-373 all rusted out in a shipping container. I'm trying to figure out which is the better machine to restore since I think I have to salvage parts from one for the other, but that's really the question. The manuals cover both the 67 and 167 so I'm not 100% sure if one of these is actually missing parts or not. Trying to fix up these machines is the hobby! I intend to sell these machines once they're in good working order. I don't actually sew myself. I just love machines. Here's what I have: 67-372T - this one has already been scrubbed so looks better than the second. Front (Is it missing the bars at the top)? The tension unit has a few broken pieces, but I know I can find new ones to purchase. This picture shows what I think is a missing collar behind the stitch length locking lever (I can see this in the diagrams of the manuals, so this one just may be missing, but I'm not 100% sure). The other 67 has this part so I was considering poaching it from that one, or I can find one online for ~$USD 35 This is the back of the machine - it looks like it has the mounts for a top presser bar, but I really don't know if it is required This is the unit model 67-GA-373 You can see a fair bit of rust. The feed dog is missing since I stole a screw for the other machine, but I have it. This thread guide is broken and seemingly stuck in the machine Thanks for your advice! I can probably get my hands on missing parts or pieces but don't really want to get too much money into replacing parts. Also - I only have 1 table, so I'd be selling one of these as just the head, and I'm not 100% folks wanna buy machines that way, so that would be another expense to purchase a table.

If you were in the military . . . Resolene and dress shoes would be a gift from heaven. Super polish them guys . . . about 6 or 8 coats or resolene . . . you have a pair of inspection shoes that need only to be put back in their protective white socks . . . to await the next inspection. Didn't have it when I was in the Navy . . . had to do it the hard way. And I would probably bring the holster back to you within about a week. Neutral or any other shoe polish has no ability at all to protect the leather item. Rubbing up against a wall . . . gate . . . laying on the ground . . . the leather will look like it was found on the beach at Normandy. May God bless, Dwight

Neatsfoot oil is meant to replace the oil that was latent in the original hide. It is very easy to get too much in there . . . kids usually do that with their baseball gloves . . . thinking sloppy and floppy will catch a ball better It don't. My oiling is done with a cheap 1 inch pig hair paint brush from Harbor freight. I put it on quickly . . . just enough to see it is wet . . . and quit. The "wet" stage disappears very quickly . . . My item will be just barely noticeably darker the next day. Usually only determined by putting a piece of the original leather up to the oiled one . . . squinting a bit . . . to find a difference . May God bless, Dwight

This guy says subtract an inch from your measurement for gusset length. Some day I'll test this using my heap of leftovers from bridle sides but I currently have no experience with bag making.

Do it however you want . . . but if my project requires a gusset . . . I lay down the item . . . trace the outside for the length of the gusset I want . . . then cut the outside of the gusset piece out of a hunk of leather. I then decide how wide a gusset I want . . . use a pair of dividers and mark that all around the inside of the piece I cut out I then cut out the gussett . . . glue it in place . . . sew / lace / stitch / as necessary. May God bless, Dwight

Your video showed as much, but you beat me to it 🏅

Ok - fixed it. I also just farted around with it and found that I had forgotten to tighten the screws behind the connecting rod. Seems to have fixed it 😳

Link is not loading for me..

Hi all - found this Adler 67 at the goodwill bins and thought I’d try to save her! Am I mistaken that this is a walking foot machine? If it is - can anyone see why these feet aren’t moving up and down? I’m sure I broke something but don’t know where to start. Thanks!

I'll try those out. Needle is a 20....t90 thread. NOW...I was taking a video of the bobbin, sewing slow and then by hand....no problems. Then I started sewing regularly and now it's sewing fine....for now. When it starts acting up again, I'll take another video. Thanks for the tips.

Trying here too… I posted this question in How To but no one’s stepping up. I’m making a bag 9”x5-3/4” of 2mm thickness leather. I’m stitching by hand and have layed out and punched the holes about 3/16” from the edge. The 4 corners have 1” radius. My search here came up blank so I’m asking…do I add all sides together and subtract the circumference of the 2” diameter or work from the dimensions of the sewing line? I tried the old string around the outside all the way around and the string layer over the sewing line. Outside strings 1-1/8” longer. I’d like to learn how to get it right the first time and not trim it to fit or piece it together. Thanks! Dano PS I’m laying the outside panel on top of the gusset.

Its very hard to judge the right amount That is definitely too much. Too much can surely ruin a pair of boots To limit how much NFO I'm putting on I have a NFO/bees wax/carnauba wax mix that I apply all over. I let that sit a while then I buff the waxes to a semi-glossy shine. I've never had anything so dry that it needs more than one NFO/wax application. Perhaps in your case, another coating in a weeks time, then another after another week should see it getting enough feed

Have you complained to the seller / vendor as they may not be aware of the rancid problem??? kgg

Hi, I have owned a couple pairs of cowboy boots for about a year and have been conditioning them with only neatsfoot oil. The boots I got have usually been offered to someone a few years ago, this person then wore them a couple times and let them sit in a shoebox for years. So technically they're almost unworn, but rather dry (not to the point of getting cracks however) (if you wonder why I choose that kind of boots its because I get them for about 30 bucks whereas Id have to pay hundreds otherwise wich I cant afford) winter is coming, and I dont want my boots to get dry because of wet-dry cycles, or to rot... they dont seem to ever get enough oil, whenever I apply some, they drink it up in seconds if not instantly. wich to me would seem to indicate that they are way too dry and need more oil. however im a newbie and im afraid of ruining a perfectly fine pair of boots because of my ignorance. how to know when there is enough oil? should I keep oiling until the oil stays on the surface for a few minutes? what happens if I over-use oil? ps: how the leather feels to the touch ; definitely not dry, but firm.

The blade is blunt. A good sharp blade will skive off a very thin amount By edge; I mean the surface, to thin an edge for sewing of gluing The second one takes the same blades as the first. A sharp blade will take of a very small amount. Change blades every time you start a new project. It makes life easier and blades are fairly cheap

I have never made a purse but just thinking about it, I think I would use neutral shoe polish. I use neutral shoe polish on my holsters. It's something that the end user could easily replenish and without damaging anything. I wouldn't use Resolene on dress shoes.

Love the sound! Looks like you're having trouble getting the machine to let go of your thread when you have finished a seam. Here is what I recommend: Before you start your seam, turn the handwheel so that the takeup lever is at its highest point. Otherwise, the takeup lever may try to snatch the thread out of your fingers. (You can do the opposite---takeup lever at lowest point---if you want to experience the snatch firsthand!) At the end of your seam, before you pull the material out from under the presser, turn the handwheel so the takeup lever is again at its highest point. This does two things. First, it locks your final stitch. Second, the top thread will not be wrapped around the bobbin when you go to take the material out. Since you ended your seam with the takeup lever at its highest point, it's already in position to start the next seam 😊

I have the first one and haven't had good results...it scraps instead of cutting. I assume the blade was sharp when I bought it. I have replacement blades. I have something that looks a lot like the second one, but it is different. Maybe I have a bad knock off of a better design? The third one is considered a French skiver? I thought that type was for thinning out the surfaces of leather...I didn't know if was for edges. My whole life I've lived by pushing blades away from me, so the French design might be better for me. The two razor blade models in the picture are pulling toward me which is awkward. It seems like my trouble with skiving is holding be back from doing the types of projects I'd like to work on. Maybe I'll break down and buy a machine and have no more excuses... So far, I've had my best luck with the wood handled knife that came in this value pack, but it's such an uncomfortable, unpleasant experience:

This?

It looks like the metal straps are what carry the weight. You could just construct a new basket out of whatever material you wished. I like it because it'll block light. The down side is it'll make it harder to rack it off, if you use a plastic siphon hose. I like conical fermenters for small scale stuff.

Definitely avoid the last one, it looks like it should work but doesn't!!!

Thanks to you all for your anwsers! I bought some other cans from another brand and im back genuine neatsfoot oil. I think the p.paulin maker puts lots of inferior products like lard and such wich go rancid and make for a product that isnt neatsfoot oil at all anymore. while it does nourish leather very very well it is barely liquid at room temperature, cloudy, and the smell does stay onto any piece of leather you put it on. it can only be found in france though so you wont have to worry about it