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Hello, my name is Tobias and im from Germany (so please excuse my not perfect English). I love Backpacks and since I couldnt find the perfect one to buy online I wanna get one hand made for me. I already have someone willing to manufacture it but I obviously need to provide plans with meassurements. I know its supposed to be 40cm x 25cm x 20cm in size and made fully out of full grain buffalo leather with brass hardware. The backpack is supposed to last my whole life so it needs to be durable. While having an idea how it should look like I just cant get a full design I like. For example the front looks empty without a pocket but having a pocket that is usable means it will make the bag look a little weird. Here is a picture of the rough idea. I like the two straps holding the main flap. I definetly dont want a sipper or press fit buttons or magnets as the wont last 50 years (or longer). Also I feel like its lacking something. MAybe a little finesse or cool feature. Yes I want kind of a basic Bag but still Im not quite happy. After filling pages with drawing that did not make me happy I decied to ask in this community. Im happy for any help and open for any suggestions Thank you

Happy to ship at buyers cost, but would prefer a local California pick up.

Finally had some time to properly check and fix everything. I first readjusted the gear on the horizontal axis, but that did not seem to make too much of a difference. Next, I checked where the play on the horizontal axis came from. So I removed the Belt cover and opened everything up. I found that the bushing that keeps the axis in place (as shown in the screenshot) had come loose. Resetting that part removed all the play in the axis and also stopped my machine from locking up! So it seems I have found the culprit and fixed it! The only remaining problem seems to be that while doing all that, I have changed my needle timing after all... As seen in the video below. It seems in the end I will also have to learn how to adjust the needle timing. At least once I learned that as well, I am confident I probably will not need a mechanic for my machine anytime in the near future, which is good as the next one is more than 200 km 😂 @AlZilla @friquantThank you so much for the help, I appreciate it a lot. Do you also have any tips or resources for setting the needle timing :)? Kind Regards Josh PXL_20251022_210024307 (1).mp4

Thanks

You can read or download the documentation directly from Adler's website, here. There have been discussions about this model on Leatherworker.net. Just use our search box to search for all topics containing the term: Adler 269-373

I was looking for a sewing machine to sew wallets and bags and came across a Adler 269-373 for sale. The documentation I found indicates this model will be suitable for my needs. My question is does anyone know if this is a good design from Adler or did it have issues. I haven’t found much in the way of videos good or bad, I couldn’t find anything for setup or troubleshooting for it. My experience is with Juki clones so I am use to finding videos quickly and easily any time I have had issues to help me. The lack of videos and information is giving me pause and making me rethink the possibility of purchasing it. Does anyone have info or links to websites I may not be seeing. I did find a couple of videos, but I believe they were speaking German so I didn’t get much out of watching them. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

@reveau There is an online manual for the Efka Variostop sewing machine motors, here. Page 25 deals with the motor's brake action. You must study the manual to learn how to set the braking action to get the motor to stop when you take your foot off the speed control pedal. Please note that the brand name is EFKA, not ELKA.

Working on improving my cuts with the swivel knife. Taking a class on ways to improve. I placed the pattern wrong and left off some of the tail. This looks like a crayon drawing compared to the instructors, a challenge to meet. Seeing our weaknesses can be our greatest strength.

Thank you Thank you Thank you

I think I have that Schrade. And i really like the Canadian leaf blade. Nice work!

Nice collection there

Had a fellow bring me his handful of knives that had no sheath . . . so I made em for him. Here they are. May God bless, Dwight

All Are Original Rings Blue Guns I have one more 3" Bbl. Taurus Judge available $7.00 each + USPS Shipping And several of each of the offered 6 models

(image attached) I'm stoked to get my KS Blade Punch brand … item, lol. I like it! I say “item” because I want to know whether to call them pricking irons or stitching chisels that happen to be French style...? If I looked at this, with my limited sewing experience, I'd have said “French Style Pricking Irons” you'd use to mark the leather, then follow with an appropriate awl rotated at that marked angle. But then everywhere I look I see people using these same types to punch all the way through like a chisel, be they KS Blade Punch, Sinabroks, or 4Z. Even Mr. Armitage talks about how they glide all the way through, in his great PDF article, here (although I couldn't tell if he was referring to the round or flat). What's the deal with that? Are these an “either/or” that can be punched through or used as a pricking iron? I got them to use as pricking irons, and follow with my C.S. Osbourne Saddler's Stitching awl. I have adequate, more affordable pricking irons in other sizes, that work fine, but couldn't find them above 4.5mm, so I got an 8 blade and 2 blade KS brand in 5mm I like the look of with 1.0 and 1.2mm thread. Often, the ads for these products say both Stitching Chisel and Pricking Iron. Thanks for your thoughts! -- Jeff (optional reading babbled below) : P.S. -- Commentary on my choosing KS over Sinabroks or 4Z, I chose KS because I saw Nigel Armitage's pricking irons/chisels reviews article from 2020. He stated in a very benign way (not taking sides) that Jin from Sinabroks left KS and went independent. Having business experience I saw this seemed to mean the development and design was taken from KS. When I bought these and mentioned loyalty to such companies vs. opportunists, Mr Son confirmed they felt very betrayed and their feelings were very hurt for some time (that they literally lost sleep at first), and didn't even mention any lost business. I cannot fully judge because I don't know if Jin was mistreated or something, but I've experienced appropriation of this in the past, where we paid for development time only to have an employee take off with designs and go make money, and it smelled like that. So I went to KS. Now it appears a third party in China is in the mix with 4Z but, go figure. Anyway, I'm no expert in any of this sewing knowledge, as my experience lies in other fields. I appreciate any thoughts about whether you'd use this as a pricking iron, chisel, or if it's a 50/50 that can be used as either. I've even been using chisels as pricking irons until I got pricking irons, and just dealt with them having unneeded points, lol. (That's not what is pictured... below is the KS ones I intend as "real" pricking irons... certainly better than fudging marks w/pointed chisels then using my awl, in any case)

What kind of project is this? I may have missed it in previous posts.

You need to identify if you will ship and at whose cost.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net English is the language used on this site. Please conform. Translated with Google Translate: Hello, I am looking for someone who knows the elka variostop motor type ce 552 No.09436652. 220/380 motor. of sewing machine when I remove the foot from the petal the motor continues I am obliged to stop it at the switch please could you help me thank you.

It can be, if it is accessible. I wouldn't use anything greasy that could be transferred to other items. The flesh side may not be able to be buffed to remove any excess. Some hides are rough and stringy. I wouldn't make a practice of doing the flesh side, only if I really had to.

Fred, we switch over next Sunday. I didn't realize you switched a week earlier. I sometimes suspect Halloween has something to do with the choice of date. If the switch happened before Halloween, it wouldn't be fully dark when the kids go out trick-or-treating. Although doing the rounds in daylight is safer, it destroys the ambiance of doing it in the dark!

Very neat setup. Lots of 3D printing (as usual with any project you do ) which gives you an advantage over the rest of us mere mortals when making custom fittings. The clear box is a good idea, I might pinch the idea for when I'm powdercoating small items - my cardboard box booth has fallen apart.

Nicely done

Super helpful guide 😊 I was trying to figure a method for my products at https://paeezleather.com

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I used to drive new cars, we had two at the time. The dealership I choose gave good deals. The cars had to be serviced at the usual regular intervals. The chief mechanic was a young lady. She did a first class, and quick, job on my cars. Her diplomas lined the service reception walls. After the first time of her servicing my car thereafter I always asked for her to do my car. Many times I was in the servicing reception booking my car in and I heard others say very strongly they didn't want her touching their car One time as I was going in to book the dealer stopped me for a chat 'you can't have Kathy to do your car' 'Oh, why, has she left?' 'No, she's gone over to England, the importer is doing mechanics classes for the new range coming in next month' 'Why did you hire her anyway?' He knew I liked her and meant no harm with this 'She's a first class mechanic, top of her class, and we always hire the best' After the dealership closed down I lost track of her