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Problem solved friquant is right. Thank you all!!

@friquantIdeally I should test it, but I found this shop whilst at a nearby town, so I may just have to pay them another visit. @toxoThanks for your reply, I should have made it clear that the lining is only attached at the top, stitched into the construction, essentially a bag within a bag. @AlZillaThanks@AlZillaThanks for the info Al, I did mean tex 45, the one I found has the drop down feed dogs, I think. I will probably just make another trip there to give it a go and will most likely end up getting it if it seems solid. Thanks for all your replies!

Have any of you bought sewing machine parts from Amazon? If so were you satisfied. I am looking to buy some bobbins and feet.

When my Singer 29k patchers made a mess like that it was shuttle timing. Not going far enough for the thread to slip around. I had to set the timing so the hook went a bit farther. Haven't had any trouble since.

Yes I do. Thank you

Good point. Tandy has tons of leathercraft books for free on it's website. https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library

I put it back, do you see it?

When I started years ago I was lucky thre was a Tandy store nearby where I picked up quite a few how to booklets predominantly By Stolman If memory serves there were books from belts to golf bag projects and a lot of techniques from carving to stitching, The were pretty basic and many seemed to be from the fifties at least that was their vibe. Most were well worth the price based on the amount of knowledge available for a newbie, which we all were at one time.

That is so helpful thank you so much! I really appreciate you breaking down the steps as its overwhelming coming from little experience. Sounds good, thank you!

Good job Chuck, I did much the same thing. Got half way through and got fed up trying to work things out so bought a pattern. Easy enough to do and I had a piece of sheepskin. I ran out of sheepskin so used a bit if something else. I have lots of real fur that's just sitting there cos many over here are squeamish about real fur. Turns out I don't like the open back so will prolly put a back on. I'm not keen on the boot type but they look good. I do like the blue ones for something you can go out in in fact, when I bought the slipper pattern I bought this one also which is closer to what I was trying to do in the first place.

Well you've already bought the kit now which will serve for a while. As you're finding out, a question like this has a multitude of answers. They all mean well and as in all things, everyone has their own take. I'll just add this. Start with a pattern! Everything will be explained in detail, you'll understand each step and why and will give you confidence to look for the next project. Many pattern sellers provide a step by step video and tell you what leather and how much you'll need. This was my very first project (I'd done some reading of course). It's a Dieselpunkro pattern (Motoko3) and I made it with the minimum of tools. I have no affiliation with Dieselpunkro but from recollection I know he has some mask patterns.

I very much like the 237. Straight stitch and zigzag. Some versions had a way to drop the feed dogs, some didn't. It sports pretty much the same guts as the Class 15 machines that have been sewing relentlessly for a hundred years, except they added the swing needle mechanics. When you say #45 thread, I assume you mean Tex 45, well in the range of a domestic machine. Another machine I like for that application is a Kenmore 158 or 385 series machine (though avoid the later, plastic bodied 385s). They have all metal running gear and you can find them in free arm configurations.

Hi everyone! I am looking to see if anyone here is a bit of an expert on Steele saddle trees, more specifically ones used by Crates/Fabtron currently. I am trying to fit my young mare with a saddle from them and I just need a bit of guidance from someone more expert on these saddles than myself. Ideally I would like to have their Cheyenne Ranch Roper with Cantle Roll on her #7211-CR, but the website says it has a truefit reining tree in it, and from my understanding those trees are narrower through the bars, which my mare is wider. Any help would be appreciated!

You don't say how you're fixing the liner. Does it have to be completely detachable? If not, could it be just glued in? How about this before you spend important money. Presumably the bottom can be just a fold over. the top can be hidden under a turned and stiched leather top seam. That just leaves the sides. If your machine won't do the job after a couple of folds, how about packing it out with a strip of leather welt which can be held in place with double sided or basting tape. Just a thought but I'm a bugger for solving problems with what's to hand before throwing money at it. Of course, if you intend production runs that's a different matter.

I have hundreds of leather straps that are leftover from bags that I made that after cutting what I needed. These straps are just too short for any of my other projects. They are 31mm long and .5mm thick. I have tan, chestnut and black. Not sure if anyone is interested in buying these at a great price. Reach out and can send you photos if so. Figured this was a great place to start. Thank you

Thank you!

I would recommend a bottom feed machine. I've been using this bottom-feed Singer 31-15 on a tabletop skirt for my thinner goods. We have a domestic sewing machine that would work as well, but I like bigger toys I guess. If the machine you're looking at is in sewing condition, you could take some of your canvas and thread (TEX 70 I'm guessing) and make sure it will sew through as many layers as you are likely to need, and make sure it has even stitch length when going over minor humps.

still for sale?

Help! I cannot find the donate link on the front page

Hi everyone, I own an adler 269 and make the odd handbag, tote, etc. The thing is, I have been lining them, mostly with light to medium fabric which is a bit of a pain to stitch on the adler. I mostly stitch with 135 top and bottom and a 130 needle, so need to change everything out, plus loosen the tensioners to get it to do a half decent job with #45 thread. I was considering a home sewing machine - I lack the space for another unit with its own table. There's a singer 237 (70s model with straight stitch and zig zag-full metal gearing) available from a used sewing machine dealer, who assures me it will suit my purposes. It may very well be enough, does anyone in here have any experience with something similar? At most I will be sewing light canvas, around 8 or 9 oz, but mostly lighter, stretchier fabrics. Thanks for any info!

Great find and great save. These might have been lost to the recycling bin

Hi Constabulary I will try to contact them The manual is available in German, but I would prefer it in English. Cheers

Hello I’m needing some help with pattern creation. I’m wanting to share a pattern with the man who will be making my backpack as he is in India and isn’t quite understanding what I’m referring to, but I can’t find any online. Does anyone have a standard tappered PDF pattern you could share with me? Photo for reference.

make sure the whole machine incl rod and coarse threading is well oiled and the stitch length mechanism parts are not gummed with old oil.

I spotted these whilst searching through an antique book store, I was so excited with the find the owner almost gave them to me for free. He said chances were pretty slim anyone else who might recognise their significance would find them there. Thought I'd share just for the historical significance. If anyone is interested I may be able to photo and email better quality files., just let me know.