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As far as it's backed off I really doubt the tension is the problem,my guess is look for it to be binding ( or getting caught) somewhere between the spool & machine.

The servo motor worked fine with no positioner system prior to transporting to a new location....so thinking it might have to do with some internal misalignment as Constabulary stated.

I'd take the tensioner apart and see if there's a burr or something else going on. Funny it would rear it's head right at a bobbin change, but it's worth a look. Another thought, make sure it's tight starting at the tensioner and not further along the thread path. Be sure where the problem starts.

I have a Pfaff 145 H3. I ran out of thread while sewing and had to refill a bobbin. After rethreading my machine, everytime I sew after a few stitches my top thread gets stuck in my tension disc (The top thread becomes extremely tight - to the point where pulling on it makes it snap - and the stitches start to show the bottom thread on top). I then have to rethread the top thread, then after a few more clean stitches, the top thread becomes tight and the issue persists. Ive attached a photo here of the tension disc. Nothing has been done to it or changed. I am not sure why this keeps happening now. Any advice?

I used to drop my wife off in a parking lot where a snowmobile would pick her up and take her to her job on last dollar rd outside of Ridgeway Co on the Divide. The Sneffels Range, regionally conterminous with San Juans, is a young, prominent, and rugged range of mountains in southwestern Colorado of the San Juan Mountains. The Sneffels range form the southern border of Ouray County and run west to east. Sneffels Range Sneffels Range

This doesn't look like much, but if you ever decide to walk the Continental Divide Trail, then you will come to this spot. From here, there is over 100 miles, as the crow flies you won't see another tree except in the only town along this portion of the route through Wyoming. I never could understand how someone could live in a city, this is 30 minutes from my house and I can spend the whole day without seeing another person, and I can usually see a long way lol. Man, the smell of the springtime flowers was glorious as well as the vastness of the world.

, if I could only have ice cream, I would try it.

Here are a couple of pics of my crossdraw, as you can see it's had some use lol. But its prime use is to keep my original Colt Anaconda looking good, clean, and functional in extreme circumstances. It's made deep to cover the cylinder, closed to protect the barrel, and you can see that the loop is made so the gun hangs at an angle, with balance being the key factor. you don't want your loop fighting gravity.

Nice find @ChibiMethos! I don't see a copyright notice so I grabbed it and added it back to the original post. Thanks for your help.

Have you ever tried to dig mud out of your pistol barrel two miles in from your truck? I have lol. Hunting holsters, IMO, are a different animal from carry holsters. I have had more problems with stuff coming in the bottom at the wrong times, accidentally sitting down, and falling down. Once your critter is down, you are also down on the ground gutting, skinning etc. Anyway, that's my take from personal experience, the amount of debris that I have collected coming in the holster from the top is minimal if the weapon fits the holster properly.

Yes, it looks like there is no positioner. One of my similar low cost servos didn't operate without positioner, even when the function was switched off in the menu :))) I checked his video again and actually it looks that the white pin operates as intended. Or so I guess.

But the machine has no needle positioner as it seem (see hand wheel) so in this case the white plastic nub has no purpose.

It’s great that you got the chance to learn from Bill Shanor just before he retired, what perfect timing. Non-lasted shoes are quicker to make, but you’re right, they’re usually best for moccasins or flat boots. Learning how to make lasted shoes is such a useful skill to have, and it’s awesome that you’ve added that to your toolkit!

Plastic white pin is for back-pedal. for normal sewing you press the pedal down and the motor starts, the more you press the faster it spins for back pedal you press with the heel, pedal moves up. In my case it is used to put the needle in the up position (used togetehr with needle positioner). While starting / sewing the plastic pin should rest in the lower position. Only when you back-pedal the plastic pin is pushed up. I guess here could be your problem. Adjust your pedal and the rod.

I use a metal satay skewer for applying edge paint and some people from my class use bits of TIG welding rod. Both are around 1-2mm in diameter. It's slow work, but by applying paint this way (drip-by-drip basically) gives you a fine control over the amount of paint you apply and prevents excess from going over the edge and smearing the grain side. Glue I have never yet applied in such a way that it could get on the wrong side of the leather I'm working with. I think it's mostly a matter of keeping your work patch and your hands clean when dealing with glue. For contact cement I use a plastic spatula to apply small amounts (CA is for setting pieces before stitching imo, so you only need small amounts) and for PVA I usually use a large spatula (an old credit card) or a brush to apply it.

https://web.archive.org/web/20211118144908/https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c4a0fab2714e5229b8efb33/t/5ed1c72f76be205b7da9f374/1590806321375/TW05A.pdf Here is the link via the Wayback Machine

Hi, I hope you can help me. A friend of mine asked me if I could make a breast collar for her horse. Now I'm looking for the right hardware, but I can't seem to find it. Can you tell me where I can get hardware similar to the one in the picture? Thanks!

I bought mine off Ali-express, cheaper than ebay at the time. Some now come with a hose between the compressor and airbrush which could be handy for getting in tight places, I suppose, but it's getting away from the portability aspect a bit. There's a huge number of generic airbrushes available now, and pretty cheap, ranging from external mix (I have a Paasche, very handy and as you say easy to clean) to double-action with bottom suction feed, side feed, top gravity feed and a pistol grip type with a largish paint bottle on top, and all pretty cheap. I've ended up with all of these and I've got no complaints with the quality of them. One thing I did was to polish the needles, it might not be necessary for spraying leather but I did it anyway. One of my grand-daughters is very artistic and creative and one day when I mentioned airbrushes her eyes lit up so I've "lent" her one of my compressors and a top-feed airbrush, she was very excited about trying something new. Knowing my wife I suspect "donate" is a better term.

Ok. Thank you for the insight. I'm gonna try to sell my craftool rivet press. I can't find brass rivets from tandy. Lol. I'm disappointed. I might not be able to sell stuff in make from supplies from tandy. That sucks!!! I just started leatherworking a few months ago. My favorite thing to do is make belts!!!

If you go for the all-in-one, shop around I got my first for about £21 and the second for under £15. My first is actually like your picture, red, but my second is black with the 'waisted' compressor I've seen them priced up to £90, and they are virtually all the same.

Ok, thanks for the confirmation on the handheld compressor. I'm going to get one to try out. Both the Badger 150's and the Binks Wren's have been good airbrush's in my opinion. The 150's are double action internal mix units where pushing the button opens the air, and pulling back on the button adjusts the paint flow, which is great if you are changing spray pattern as you go, but the internal mix aspect makes them slightly more involved to clean up. The Wren's being an external mix single action control makes them easier to clean, and I like the ergonomics and simplicity of them. Each has their place.

There are plenty of youtube vids showing how to make a pattern but it's pretty simple for a slimjim, basically do as you said, fold some cardboard around the gun and mark out the shape and allow for the stitch line. If you look at the top of this section there is a tutorial on making a slimjim.

I have two of these. They're great. An ordinary spray brush can be fitted. Standard fitting, but not Badger fitting. The cup on top can be changed. Usually these come as a package with two different larger capped plastic cups; very useful for when you're spraying a large amount of dye or sealer With the two I have I swopped one over to an airbrush with a finer needle. They're not really all that bulky and are fairly light-weight. Some versions have a waisted-shape compressor which fit the hand better. Its great not having a hose trailing around to trip over or get wiped across work you've just done I've done plenty of spraying but never as yet exhausted the compressor I know nothing about your other airbrushes but I'd suggest cleaning them up and retiring them

You've got quite the collection! That Chameleon is an interesting device, I've never heard of them before (which probably isn't surprising). As for your question about the "self-contained" unit, I have one but haven't used it much only because I haven't done much airbrushing for a while. It works well and is certainly convenient as I don't have to drag out compressor, hose etc. I bought it after reading about the idea on various modelling forums, most who used one seemed happy enough with it. There are various types available, some have a removable battery pack so you can swap them when they go flat. Theoretically, any "modern" airbrush should fit onto the compressor container as all of the China-made models have the same thread size, but I couldn't guarantee it. The older Badgers won't fit without an adaptor, likewise Paasche.

I also found the the Adler/Durkoff website has a manual/parts list for the 167 which does show the bearing so my machine is a 167 not a 67 adn the part I destroyed is #067-10-053-0. Anyone got one? Martin