All Activity

I meant to type Singer IIIw155, not iiiw155. Thanks.

If the pan you've fitted is working at keeping the oil off you then I wouldn't worry too much about getting the correct one. As for oiling, you don't have to use the wick system, just oil it manually. Basically just give any parts that are rubbing/in contact/sliding etc a drop or two of oil. If you can master that clutch motor then well done but life will be easier if you swap it for a servo.

Well, that's different, and looks pretty neat. One potential problem you will have is the snap-down strap is stitched across and because the strap will have to be bent at a sharp angle to remove/insert the coin it will eventually tear at the "hinge point".

PS. I forgot to say; go raid a charity shop (thrift store?) for wallets, purses and handbags. You can pick them up real cheaply

You guys have inspired me. I started deconstruction. Clearly not glued anywhere. Gluing is common, no? Clearly had to start a new thread midway through the pockets. And the inner pockets have some weird single knot holding them in place.

Thank you.

Hi all, I just acquired a Singer IIIw155, and went online to get the parts manual, and found two. While most of the part numbers are the same, there are many with different part numbers. I get when there is a different letter at the end, maybe for different metal compounds used, but many have very different numbers. I made a pdf of the plates side by side. I started to highlight in pink all the part numbers that are different in the two manuals, but got tired of doing so after 5 pages. But, you can get the idea. I'm wondering if there is anything different. I tried to research if two parts (seemingly identical but with two different numbers) are inter-changeable, and apparently chatgpt thinks they are distinct parts with different functions. If you can, please see the pdf. I'd love to find out from which set of part numbers I should order and if there really is any difference. Also, I don't know what is in my existing machine, so not sure if I should worry about compatibility. Thanks! side by side of two different parts lists.pdf

does anyone have 1, if so can you tell me how to increase engraving size.

@OGL I sometimes buy a cheap item and take it apart to see how its made and how I would do it better. BUT, I only buy really cheap stuff and what I'm interested in. Its all good edumacation

All is not lost; now you have a basic wallet pattern to use, just take it apart.

Chuck is right... that's a Tandy kit, and poorly done at that! Not worth $5 in my mind. Round holes are starting off on the wrong foot! The thick white thread is an abomination. Everything is wrong except the back stitching. Nick

I’ve been pleased with Panhandle Leather. I ordered 4 sides from them a 5/6, and a 8/9 oz Hermann Oak skirting, a Hermann Oak heavy harness side, and a Thoroughbred Latigo side. I was quite pleased with all of them. I ordered over the phone and they asked what I was going to do with the leather so they could send something that would work for me. They even followed up the next day as they were filling the order to make sure they were sending the correct leather. Their shipping was also fast, my order showed up about 2 days faster than I thought it would. As a side note as a company they donate to our county livestock show and our county fair, which I think is pretty nice of them since we live about 5 1/2 hrs away from them. Hope this helps and good luck on your search.

That's disappointing especially considering where it came from. I realize I said "skive" in my original post. I meant bevel. I bought some basic tools. I'm going to try to give it an upgrade. Edit: I double checked what I received against your comments then went back to the source and what they sell online is consistent with the product I got. So yeah...my amateur eye was not wrong in feeling a bit duped. SOOOO glad I did not pay full price. I'll chalk it up to price of education which is pretty much what I was after anyway.

I found a nifty old coin for morse code on the temu site, and grabbed some, mostly because of how I learned something. In movies, I've seen actors send and receive messages over telegraph or other morse codes, but never saw how they did it. Turns out it is the opposite of magic. With this coin (other side has the sending info) and knowing how the code works, this will allow even a novice to decode a message. The code not only works, but is WAY easier to teach/share than I thought. I made a few wraps for them, and will be gifting them to a couple radio nerd friends. I kind of doubt it is an item that would sell well, but I'm still going to have a few made up just in case. They look, and ARE cool. By the way, feel free to offer critique. Especially if it is related to radio, since I'm not very deep into that hobby.

ya, same with ordering food from the ubereats or deliveroo. I have a source in Edmonton, called Buckskin Leather. Found the store in the 1990's in my neighbourhood, then found it again when I sought out a supplier of HO leather. The lady there listens carefully, and takes the time to understand what I'm asking. Being less experienced, I'm sure I couldn't tell between A, B and undergrades, but there isn't another source near me, so I guess I haven't compared it to much aside from Tandy's offerings.

What chuck123wapati said. I retired about 4 years ago. You have to engage your mind, body, and soul. Get a daily devotional book or something and spend time with your Bible. Get some exercise or other physical activity - you don't want to get fat and slovenly, and you'll feel better. Go explore that park or trail you've always been wanting to. Read. Energize your mind. The number of books I've read in the last four years is astounding. Those hobbies you've been wanting to get better at? Now that I have the time, I've been doing more wood work (already had the tools), built a few more radio control airplanes, and started making knives. Then I can make sheaths to go with them. 😁 Everyone needs one more belt or holster. Travel. Have done 2 cruises, and we hook up the RV and make a long road trip at least once a year. Go fishing during the week when everyone else is at work. I don't know how we had time for jobs . . . .

lol I posted the tandy wallet kit above, I think it's 30 bucks. Thats a kit wallet if i ever saw one. They're a good learning tool. The second time you stitch them back together, you learn what is wrong with them lol.

I think they accept crappy leather from the tannerys and just don't do their diligence and send it back to them. Instead, they know they can sell it onlione, and if it's returned, they just sell it again to some other dummy online. If you order online, be prepared to get second best at best.

I agree with Bruce that Panhandle Leather always seem to have the best prices on HO. That being said they have also went up in price, a year ago I was paying 225.00 a side and if I remember correctly my last side was 245.00. But that still beats 299.00

All things considered, it's not horrible. I've seen less sold for more at times. That said, I agree with just about everything said above. That said, if you wanted to make your own, you could do better without too much trouble! Materials, tools, and all would probably cost less than the $100 asking price - Not including your blood, sweat and tears. - Bill

@Steve855 It's called a drip pan all it does is keep the oil off of your pants & floor that drips off of the machine.

Thanks Wizcrafts! I don't plan on sewing any thick leather, more auto upholstery type projects, so this machine should work out ok. I appreciate you checking under that top cover. When you say I'll need the correct oil pan, is that required for machine longevity? I thought the pan was just keep it from dripping all over the operator and the floor. I have that part sorted out. The pan I installed is large enough for full coverage under the machine. It has a drain hole that I mounted a little clear cup under so I can see if it fills up. Maybe I have it all wrong-is the oil pan designed to function as a sump, like the oil pan on an engine?

FURNACE IS FIXED!! I e-mailed my furnace guy this morning, and he got back to me and asked if I'd be home late in the day. He came at 5:30 and was there until 7, as it turned out the problem wasn't as simple as just replacing the pressure switch. He says water got into the furnace at some point and damaged the circuit board, so the second stage of the burner doesn't work. But at least now the temperature in the house is the same as the temperature the thermostat is set at! SO nice to be warm! I imagine the circuit board is going to need replacing, plus there's a strong mouldy smell in the air that is coming from the furnace, so we're not quite out of the woods yet!

Parts are still being manufactured for machines that were produced in large numbers (and are still considered very useful by many, such as the Adler 205-370). If you have a rare machine, it can be very difficult to find a replacement part. I once made a hard-to-find foot by using two (inexpensive) Singer feet. One for the connection to the rod and another for the foot. By welding the two together, I got the right foot. It was difficult to align and clamp everything so that the needle opening was exactly in the right place (and the whole thing didn't look very aesthetic), but it worked well.

I have the 211g156 with reverse. The 211s are tough machines, but have small pulleys for high speed sewing of upholstery, boat/truck covers, tarps, tents and banners. My machine is at my shop. I'll take a look under the oil filler cover tomorrow and report back. I squeeze oil into every hole that isn't tapped for screw. You'll need the proper oil pan. You can probably get one from Toledo Industrial sewing Machines, who are advertisers here.