All Activity

This post and the few that follow talk about timing a 545. Maybe it'll be helpful to you:

thanks a lot to everyone for your help

Thanks for the reply, I’ll have to research on how to time this model…I’ve read something about the eccentric adjustment screws but not sure if that’s how to proceed.

Your timing is a little bit of (hook should be at the needle scarf when already on the way up, distance is definde in the manual) and probably the needle is too far from the hook (it should almost touch the needle, but not exactly, ca 0.1mm). I suggest you to find the engineering manual and follow it to time your machine.

Greetings, I’ve been trying to solve some issues for the past few days of thread entanglement and so far not so good. I’ve disassembled the bobin case up to the bobin case lever to make sure no thread was in between. Currently I’m using 134-35 #21 needles and #138 thread. In the second video, I removed the cover to show the needle to hook action. I’m aware that this video is probably not enough to solve the problem but I’m willing to follow guidance and post more as needed. Thank you for your time. IMG_9290.mov IMG_9291.mov

Yes, you have the right to use artistic license and do anything the way your want but my opinion is that the edges are not "rustic" but rather totally out of congruence with the rest of the project. Everything looks well finished, nice leather, good stitching, etc... except for the edges. Because of this contrast, they do not look "hand-made" or roughly made, they look poorly made. If the wallet were rough-out leather, it may work just fine. As others have mentioned, the first step is to use the proper gluing technique to create a good bond with all the layers. Second, the edge needs to be sanded, probably with progressively finer grits going to 600. On a small project like this, it won't take much. A few strokes with 220 and a little more with 600. Use a sanding block to keep the edge flat and level. Sanding will remove any glue the seeped from the edges. It should feel like one piece of leather. Then burnish with Tokonole using the tool of your choice. Apply enough Tokonole to cover the edge without getting it on the grain side. Spread it with your finger and et it soak in for 10-15 seconds. Then, bear down with the tool as firmly as possible, without mushrooming or rolling the edge over. Use rapid back and forth strokes and pressure to create heat and bond the fibers together, as if you are trying to start a fire. As it dries, it may start squeaking. It should be very glossy in the end. I think you will like the results.

I think the clutch is kicked out,take the bobbin out,try pushing on the stitch length button ,turn the handwheel backwards until it goes into the slot,while holding the button down push the handwheel backwards until you hear a click or until it just won't turn anymore.This "should" get the clutch re-engaged.

I would say, seeing as it's a Cobra machine, I would give Steve a call at Leather Machine Co.

Additionally, it's built like a tank and is worth every penny, and Toledo Industrial Sewing is a great company to deal with.

Just recently, I got a box-style reducer from Bob Kovar, bearings, yes, it has them.

You will want to get the correct set screw screwed into the groove in the shaft, as there are timing adjustments downstream of this that will be affected if this is incorrect. Typically there are two set screws, 90 degrees apart on the shaft. I can see the shaft has a groove in it. One of the set screws is meant to be tightened into the shaft groove (this screw often has a rounded tip that fits well into the groove). The other set screw is meant to be tightened against the regular face of the shaft. (this screw will likely have a flat tip) After you get that sorted, I would check that the clutch safety is engaged. And send us another video zoomed in on the needle and bobbin area, slow motion turn with the handwheel like four seconds or so per revolution.

Thanks, no paint just Tokonole and slicking. Thanks, I did this in my next iteration. Does it look better? Thanks, I kinda agree, it really shows it was handmade. Thanks for your feedback, I tried the edge paint in the second version. Next I will try to put some elbow grease in the edge. It really takes a lot of time :).

Thanks! Although I don't see anything marked "S", there are 2 distinct screws on the eccentric that can be screwed into the slot. The first one I tried resulted in no stepping at all, but the other one seems to work, as it is now stepping, and the stitch length adjustment even seems to be within the correct range too. However, now the bobbin hook is not catching the thread, so I assume that something went out of alignment. Any hints/suggestions on what/how to adjust would be much appreciated.

I copped a boo at one of my speed reducers that bolts to the table in a box above the motor. It looks like it has a bronze case bearing, but, I'm not sure about that. I bought it about 10 years ago and it may be outdated. I have different reducers on machines in my shop. I will look at them later today and try to remember to report back here. Nonetheless, Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, sells the most current accessories. So, the newer speed reducers might have roller bearings in all models. Ask him.

Many years ago, I had a Union Lockstitch machine that was made to sew horse tack. The ULS is a needle and awl machine. The needles are barbed like hand sewing needles are. I explored all of the available thread options, then bought needles and awls that would punch the proper size holes for that size of linen thread. In my searches, I found that the thickest linen thread sold in the USA at that point in time was Barbour's Irish Linen in 8 cords. This is equivalent to .828 mm diameter. It called for a gigantic needle, size 30, which nobody had in stock. The largest needle I could get was a #250. It was able to hook and sew with 6 cord linen thread. I later discovered that these thicker sizes of thread were meant for the shoe repair trade, not saddlers. Some shoe sole sewing machines were apparently capable of handling up to 10 cord linen thread, which is about 1 mm diameter. They are specialized machines that can weigh 500 pounds or more. I would recommend that the OP searches for an old time shoe repair shop that uses old sole stitchers and see if they can sew his or her projects for a nominal fee.

Those are friggin awesome lol. My oldest daughter just bought a pair, no spikes but as tall and covered in chains, she would wear those for sure.

Hi! I tried putting more pressure on the presser foot rotating the thumbscrew on the right edge of the back of the sewing machine and I tried sewing on a piece of felt plus the layers of leather and It sew like this Front Back Now I attached the belt but I have to regolate it a little bit as if I push the pedal with my foot the belt slips and the machine won't sew. Anyway do you suggest me to try to open the head of the machine anyway? I am going to replace the presser foot just in case the teeth are worn out

The amount of top tension didn't make much difference turned all the way in vs all the way out. I had to loosen the bobbin tension a little bit so the top thread wouldn't show so much on the bottom side.

Sorry. "Proving it" is beyond the scope of my participation here. I can see from the picture that the one at TISM appears to have a bearing. I'll include a link to Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and verify that Bob Kovar has not lied to me. Bad news is that he is in the U.S. Call him. JM2C, Jim https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html

Esheeran; I sent a message to you yesterday. check your in basket.

I don't mean to take over this thread . . . but I thought I'd offer Digit another pattern . . . Simple . . . quick . . . and absolutely works like a charm . . . short piece of suede and one snap I "invented" this as I hate carrying anything in a shirt pocket other than a ball point pen or a lead pencil. This is lightweight . . . hardly recognize they are even there. May God bless, Dwight

I made a case very similar to that for a guy who wanted it for his truck key, which was about four years ago. I saw him a couple of weeks ago, and there was the case on his belt. I said, 'You wear that every day?' He said, 'Every day.' I gave him a good price @ $50; he's a friend of my brother, so I took $10 off. The way I see it is that you can't make money making one thing at a time. You know, when the glue is drying, you're stitching or cutting something. If you are standing and watching glue dry, you have to consider the money you are losing on something you could be working on; people often overlook this, and it's an essential part of business. Never make your leather goods cheap, or that's what you will be known for, and you will quickly develop a bad reputation. Be fair, but always get paid. Anyone can make a nice piece of work, but in the end, making money is the hard part, that's just my opinion.

Thanks Mr Black. It's all veg tan, yes there's wire in the brim and it's not lined. Didn't make it for constant wearing. Of course a lining could be installed at any time.

@fredk I had a look around on line at some goth 'stuff ' , and holy crap , there's some really wild and bizarre stuff out there. I did start some gauntlets a few years back and never finished them, so I might dig them out of my "basement " and finish those off,finally, just like the boots and put those on display as well. While I am by no means a 'goth' or a punk, but for some reason what I have seen just makes me smile ☺️ You can see those spikes along the back a bit better. HS

That is a nice looking glasses case. The edging could have been a little better but I have seen plenty a lot worse. I would not think of making it for under $60.00au which would be about 35 euro. Patterning time will often take longer than the actual job and I do use Autocad and a laser and 3D printing regularly as well. For me I would still be losing at $60.00au but the next time I would be in front.