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@mbnaegle, those sprayers look a lot like external mix airbrush (like a Badger 350) ... @AlZilla, see if a "bar mister" would work for you. You ordinarily fill it with vermouth to spritz a martini. I'm sure you could use it to spritz dye (wear gloves, obviously, unless you want to match your work). Some of them look like old-fashioned perfume bottle sprayers.

Someone recommended here once that you backstitch with double needle (saddle stitch) if you want it to look great and don't have to do too many of them. I have been doing that with my very low volume hobby (translates as "business that I lose money doing").

@fredk, *some* sorts of stainless steel are magnetic. Types like 304 are nonmagnetic (Austenitic), other kinds are more or less magnetic (Ferritic, Martensitic combinations thereof called "duplex"). Stainless steel is sort of a trick question these days because there are so many boutique varieties of it specializes for various things.

For me, my big machine stitches the same in both directions. My 111Ws don't have reverse so either I do the turn around trick or leave long tails that I backstitch or tie off by hand. It all works.

Ditto what Dikman said. Ammo looks like .45ACP to me. Definitely not .45 Colt.

Why not just start your work one hole from the end? Make one stich (or 2) and turn the work around 180 degrees and chug away? I've almost never used a reverse on a machine. Some machines just aren't timed right. is your forward and reverse identical in stitch length? There can also be times when a switch to reverse and then forward again wont pull the lock up right. (geometry). Just things to consider.

On the few I've used, a ball peen hammer and anvil have sufficed. I doubt that would be effective for any kind of volume.

very nice work! I like the use of stamps on both sides of the border. Is the holster lined? A picture of the back would be appreciated.

The bell icon interprets a click with "Whew, I told the member everything that was going on!" It continues to list each notification so you can refer to them at any time. You can still click each item individually, or set up an activity stream to your interests. I get emails for my notifications, so sometimes my bell has a red number for a day or two until I go back and click it just to make sure I didn't miss or forget anything.

A picture would really help. We can't tell if the hardware or leather is bleeding, and we probably won't be able to help if the stains are on vinyl, but we'll try.

😊 thanks

I like that sewn on setup more than the snap. I haven't sat down with this project yet.

NICE work !!!!!!!!!

A BTB (or BTP) holster is my next project. I have never used one, nor made one before. It is an experiment. I am making it for a friend who said that his "muffin-top" causes too much tilting outward with his Avenger style holster. I have always wanted to try this style, so this is the perfect opportunity. I saw that jefferycustomleather style quite some time ago and appreciated its' simplicity and elegance. Love the look. However, I worry that a muffin-top may play the devil with a snap closure, so I will be going with a sewn-on loop, such as that offered by Mitch Rosen. https://mitchrosen.com/products/straightman?_pos=3&_sid=afaeaeaf8&_ss=r This will be a straight-drop style for a Sig P365.

Already have several holsters for my pistols but had an itch to build another one while it was raining outside.

DIY'ing it might be a good way to go. I found this thread *here* that has some detailed process. Doesn't seem difficult or high skill requirement. Just takes time. One thing I might do differently is those guys used nails to help hold the layers together, and in time as it wears down they'll eventually be sticking out the side. I've got a hand crank book press the should compress it together good enough that the nails aren't necessary.

I use a set of calipers to find that 4th hole, leave machine in forward but stitch back to the start point, stop the needle just after it starts back up and the turn the work around and stitch forward through the stitches I just made. I don't have to worry about forward and reverse stitches being exactly equal in length. I keep scrap around so I make sure how long 3 stitches is currently on the machine. Todd

Not much to it. The bolt looks forged, maybe the washers too.

The domes are nice and pretty, I used to use a rivet set, then a custom driver in a riveter. I use allot of #12x3/8" copper belting rivets, but set them flush across the surface in a steel piece in a 5 ton press. 5 tons is enough to swage the rivet tip into a hole .110" in one whack. Looks pretty sharp in it's own way and bites allot better than you'd think. I don't think it would work with a copper burr though, just too thin and soft.

I like it! Criticism would be things that can still be finished. Maybe use a larger beveler? Die or paint the edges after that then slick? Stitch your liner closer to the edge? Looks a far sight better than my first.

Now that is COOL! Pretty clever, you taking the pics while your "willing" helper does the work. Incidentally, I like the anvil stand, that's also .

For a first holster effort that's pretty bloody good. Your ammo, however, isn't .45 Colt, it looks like it's 9mm.

The chinese one is perhaps stainless steel. Magnets aren't any use on s/s

I'd like to see more photos, Close-ups too ? Well done for stepping out of your comfort zone. It looks very nice Where did you get the inert ammo?

A while ago I asked what I now know to be a daft question, since then I've been playing and building a project between regular orders... 7months and it's finished. The first project I've stamped, the first I've carved, the first I've dyed, the first I've antiqued and the first time lining anything. (I've played with each but never on a project) I was asked to step out of my lead and folio cover comfort zone and build a show holster and gun belt to go in a fantasy cowboy outfit. I've never done anything like this so of course I agreed. This project is made with 10oz natural veg-tan body, a 3oz heavily milled natural veg-tan goat (a super ropey piece). All dyed with feibings in the respective colour ("chocolate brown" and "ox blood"). The buckle, keeper and end tip thingy are 925plated copies of a late 80's steel set. Antiqued with feibings dark brown paste. The holster and ammo are fitted to a "single action army .45". Being in the UK this is a non-functional replica scaled down 2% so that it cannot be easily converted to functional. Unfortunately due to the size difference the genuine inert ammo doesn't fit but becomes pretty bling. Feel free to offer constructive criticism but please bare in mind this is a whole world of firsts for me and I have a list of things to improve on my next project already.