Wizcrafts

Yes, Trace. Get a boat made of thiotimaline infused Unconstructium! The boats are sold by the same people who distribute the Unobtanium needles.

The change in stitch length is due to the pendulum effect of the needle bar pivoting from the top of the machine head. The longer the needlebar and needle combination, the greater the loss of stitch length as the thickness increases. One other workaround is to sew these projects on a Campbell Randall or Union Lockstitch machine.

There is either a sharp edge on the presser foot, or it is tilted up one way or the other. I would expect to see a smooth tract that is the width of the outside toes, but not those stab wounds. Remove the outside foot and feel it to see if there is a sharp edge. Use Emory cloth to smooth out the offending edge and polish it on a buffing wheel with green rouge. If the foot has too much slack on the presser bar, it might shift up or down from true horizontal.

Unobtanium needles are actually constructed of an immeasurable amount of triple resublimated thiotimaline, rendering them absolutely clear to the naked eye. The needles exist, so to speak, but cannot be seen. They are meant to be used to sew invisible thread, also containing triple resublimated thiotimaline.

Fascinating video. I must get a walking foot post machine!

Glad to help. The other machine is best suited to a garment factory or dress makers' shop. There, little old ladies wearing babushkas sit and sew on machine like this, 8 hours a day, at 90 stitches per second.

Those needles are now made of Unobtanium

Yes, it will do fine on 6 layers of vinyl. What is is not good at is sewing thin material or using thin thread. The 2500 is best used with #138 or bigger thread, with #23 or larger needles. You could use #22 round point needles with #138 thread to sew vinyl. Then move up to leather point #23, 24, 25 and 26 to sew heavy thread into double leather weight belts.

Bara; The Brother machine you asked us about is NOT a leather sewing machine! You will be wasting your money if that is what you want to sew on it. First of all, I told you what it was made to sew: cloth. Second, it only sews up to about 1/4 inch of compressible cloth and uses very thin needles and thread (garment weight). It will not effectively sew belts and straps, especially anything 1/4 inch thick. You are in for a lot of headaches if you make this mistake. Leather belts are dozens of times denser than cloth. You need a dedicated leather stitcher for thick leather belts (anything over 6-8 ounces).

Forget Craigslist ads if you need a real leather sewing machine. Chances are not very good that such a machine will be listed there. I tell you this from experience and because I sew leather items every day. This is the machine I use for all thick leather projects, including doubled saddle skirting weight lifters' belts, up to 1/2" thick and holsters over 3/4 inch thick. I use #346 thread to hold them together. Save your money until you can buy a machine like this one. If that is beyond your budget, this machine will probably sew weight belts, up to 7/16" thick.

I sometimes rub Angelus #101 light oil (avail in quarts or gallons) onto both sides of bridle leather straps to soften them up. This is a very light weight oil that penetrates where Neatsfoot won't. You can also try pulling the straps through a cloth soaked with Carnauba creme.

Sure, I could use a Frobana or Junker and Ruh hand cranked sole stitcher!

All I have found is that this is a Japanese built Brother needle feed machine. It was designed for high speed sewing of fabrics, using thinner needle/thread combinations. My guess is that due to having needle feed, it will sew vinyl items and thin leather. Leather tend to be grabby on top and requires more pressure to hold it down than cloth and vinyl. If the leather lifts with the needle, you get skipped stitches. Increasing the foot pressure tends to cause the leather to drag under the standard flat steel foot. This causes short and varying length stitches. You will probably end up changing the presser foot to a roller equipped foot to let leather move through it without dragging. I can imagine it will have enough clearance to use #69 (T70) bonded thread and a #16 (100) or 18 (110) needle. Use round point for cloth and vinyl and leather point for leather. As long as your belts do not exceed 1/8 inch (3mm) and you use a roller equipped or a Teflon foot, it should sew them fine. Note, that because this machine has needle feed, meaning the needle moves backward and forward, any accessory feet you buy must have a centered slot, not a little round hole. Also, this machine contains an oil pump and must be run at a very high speed to circulate the oil properly. Make sure you run it at at least 2500 to 5000 rpm every time you sew or get ready to sew. This can be done while winding bobbins, or before using it to actually sew, and in between projects. The machine is meant to be used at the rate of approximately 60 to 90 stitches per second for optimal distribution of oil. That would cause smoke to come off the thread as it goes through leather and the needle will probably get stuck due to burning the thread inside the leather. On second thought, don't use that machine to sew leather, unless it is garment leather about 3 to 4 ounces thick.

It is not a drop feed machine. The feed dog just moves forward and backward. It is not a leather capable sewing machine at all. Just for sewing binding over the edges. But, the binder attachment is not mounted onto the bracket.

Maybe this will help: Consew Overseaming machine Most of the time these machines are used to join two pieces of fur or material together along the top seam, using a whipstitch on the top edge. Tailor shops uses them to repair fur on garments. Thus, they are often called "fur machines." Your example on Gumtree is a fur machine, not a bag closer.

Those feet have serrated bottoms used to claw binding material over the edges of stuff. They could mark vegtan leather pretty badly. I cannot tell from looking at the feed dog if it moves four ways (standard drop feed), or two ways (binding feeder). But, it seems to be a binder machine at first appearance. A normal "drop feed" feed dog moves forward while under the top of the throat plate, then up just above the plate, then back the set stitch length, then drops down. A binder feed dog only moves forward and backward, not up and down. A binder feed dog will fight you during normal sewing operations. If that machine has a binder feed dog it is no good for normal sewing of any material, much less leather.

Careful; it looks like it may be setup as an edge binder machine. If so, the feed dog may not assist with moving material. In any case, it is only a medium duty sewing machine.

That patcher machine is an extremely old design; probably from the early 1900s. Parts may be non-existent. But, if all it needs is a needle and it has at least one good bobbin and bobbin case, it may sew.

If the machine is a shoe patcher, it may be one of several types built by Adler. Some can only sew 1/4 inch, others can exceed 5/16. Some are tight and give longer stitches than worn out machines. Then, there are tiny bobbin versions and bigger than tiny bobbin versions. The arm may be 12 or 18 inches long. All of the patchers are top feed only, using claw like teeth on the foot to move the leather in any direction. Motorizing a treadle base will require adding a platform to hold the motor. Or, you can just buy a pedestal base already equipped with a servo motor and speed reducer. Still others drill into the back and mount a small domestic 1.5 amp sewing machine motor on the machine. It probably won't have enough torque to start the machine on its own, but will keep the stitching going after you hand wheel start it. Both of my patchers have that setup. Yes, it is probably worth $250. As for parts, probably, depending on the age, model number. and where it was built (pre-WW2, or post WW2 factories). The price of the parts may come as a shock though.

Hello MissionVao; I want to clear up some nomenclature confusion for you so we are all on the same page. Thread sizes used in these machines vary, but bonded thread is a commonly rated item. Bonded thread, whether nylon or polyester, usually comes in these sizes. The thread sizes shown have Bonded size/Tex size and the common needle sizes are listed in .eu sizes, which is what you will be ordering in Serbia. #33/T30 thread, using #70 or #80 needles (very thin thread and needles); #46/T45 (#80 or #90 needle), for sewing shoe designs, or stitching shoe uppers; #69/T70 (#100 or #110 needles) The standard is the upholstery trade and best for thin leather projects (garments, zippers, wallets); #92/T90 (#120 or #125 needles) The first light-heavy thread, beyond most home sewing machine capability; T105 thread (#130 needles) This is often sold in large spools of polyester thread for top stitching denim garments; #138/T135 (#140 or #160 needles). This may be too large for your machine's hook, unless it can be adjusted for more clearance.

I believe that your machine may be equipped with a special rectangular motion feed dog that can be adjusted to either match the needle bar motion, or move at a different pace. This allows for ruffling, of a sort (I don't know how much can be ruffled). Ask Bob for instructions, or consult the manual that came with your machine. The last time I sewed drapes I used #69 bonded nylon thread, top and bottom, with a #18 needle. You can use other strong cloth thread though. A #18 needle is less likely to break under the strain (relatively speaking) of long drapery panels. One thing I recommend is adding more top pressure to the presser foot. This is done by a threaded adjuster over the top of the presser foot bar (aka: "presser bar"). This will help to keep the material from slipping. Since you machine doesn't have a motor driven material puller on the back, you may want to volunteer to help pull the drapes back as she sews.

I'm hoping that my next major machine purchase is something like the 8810. I have a lot of repairs and hat related jobs that would be so much easier to sew on a post bed machine. I used to have two ancient Singer post machines with roller feet. I used them to make biker and cowboy hats.

LJR and Paul; I have friends in my town who make custom shoes and boots. They even come over to my shop and sew on my machines now and then. The main equipment they use (between theirs and mine) are an old Singer post bed roller foot machine (@15 spi), a curved needle Landis 12F outsole stitcher, small and large bobbin Singer 29k patchers (~ 6 spi) and my big Cowboy CB4500 straight needle, cylinder arm harness stitcher. Missing is a medium duty cylinder arm walking foot machine, or a heavier duty modern walking foot post bed machine. Either would make it easier to complete the shoe projects. I think you should look into a modern post bed machine

Good luck with your hunt for info. There were a few members who bought those types of machines and some may be able to help you out. Otherwise, put a micrometer on the output shaft of the Yamata, then ask Sailrite if their Monster II wheel will fit it properly. Don't forget to buy the longer belt they sell for that conversion.

Here is a topic from 2009 about Yamata portable walking foot machines and modifications