Wizcrafts

If the spring interferes, leave it out. Load the bobbin so it feeds against the rotation of the hook and make sure you feed the thread under the tension spring and that there are no thread stubs stuck in the slot or spring. Then adjust the bobbin tension for a smooth, steady pull. If you use the proper needle size for the thread combination, the top tension should bring the knots into the center of the work, consistently. Watch the thread spool as it unwinds to see if it is forming kinks. Some machines have a top post with multiple holes that allow you to loop the top thread around upper and lower guide holes in the opposite direction of the twist of the thread. This can counteract excessively twisty thread.

Always insert the bobbin so it feeds against the direction of the hook. If the hook turns clockwise, insert the bobbin counterclockwise. This may cause the bobbin thread to me a sharp turn into the slot that feed under the tension spring. I find this to be more controllable unless the thread is particularly sticky.

I have a second job sewing part time making blackout window blinds. They have an extended body Consew 206RB-18, which does a great job on ballistic material and Velcro. It has a large M style bobbin and uses system 135x17 needles. They ordered it with a servo motor that has a simple speed limiter knob. It can sew long or short stitches and forward and reverse match. That would definitely be an upgrade from your Singer 111. The 18 inch body is a blessing with wide material.

That's how things used to be done before everybody was online and buying with their thumbs. I still Call Bob on the phone to talk about machines and parts. That's how I used to get info before the Internet.

It looks like a drop ship middle man. If anything goes wrong you would have to depend on him to assist you with parts or service. Don't know what else to tell ya. If you are looking at getting a Cowboy, Cobra, or Techsew, the official dealers advertise here (via paid banners on top of each page) and provide after the sale service to their customers. Those advertisers keep the lights on here. That dealer is not one of our advertisers.

These photos won't open on a Windows computer unless the owner buys a paid extension. They are Apple specific file types.

You contact him via our private message system.

It would help if you post a link to the company website and that machine.

I don't see any reverse lever. So, no, it is forward ho only! Spin the work around to do Poor Man's Reverse, like I do.

That is the second main attraction of the higher lift machines. Until you have to raise something up to clear hardware or shapes hanging down on the left you won't appreciate the holster or stirrup plates. I have used both many times and would never willingly give up that extra clearance under the feet.

Dwight; I went straight up to a CB4500 for the longer arm and harp space and the extra thickness capacity. Some of our holsters are 3/4 inch along the rib and one was a full 7/8 inch. A lot of our sheath work starts at a half inch and easily hits 5/8 inch. The CB3200 has an upper limit of a half inch. Why be limited? Figure out if you may need to routinely exceed 1/2 inch, and/or need to sew wider items and buy accordingly.

Let me see what you come up with. I will try it and get back to you. The only issue I see is that the slot would have to be wider to accommodate the feeder. But, I have confidence you can do it. That said, I only use the flat plate for very thick holsters and sheathes to gain a little extra clearance under the feet. It would be worth testing a flat plate with a 1/4 inch slot. I do use the holster plate to get past hardware on the bottom. I would like to try a modified raised holster plate with your narrow feeder style. It will assist to even feeding, especially in reverse (where the unassisted reverse lags).

I'm here to tell you that the narrow plate and feeder made a big difference for me. I can use the cb4500 with thick or thin material by just changing the needle and thread. I would normally switch to a different machine for the lighter work. But, some jobs just seem to fit the 4500 architecture better. The 16.5 inch arm being one. Besides, my Techsew 2700 is setup with white #69 thread and a #18 needle and I hate to ramp it up for one job. I use it a lot with that combo. The 4500 can handle #138 thread easily, plus with a leather point needle, but even better with these new parts. Thin or soft work stays on top of the throat plate now.

Could you please also post these files in the 3D and Laser Printers section of the LWN?

The only portable sewing machines that can even remotely handle leather work are those made and sold by Sailrite. Period. They have dual feed; top and bottom, via serrated or pebble grain teeth on the feet and feed dog. The inside foot and needle are static. The outer foot moves in sync with the dog. They use Class 15 bobbins, just like the ancient Singer 15-91 and the 30-15 tailoring machines. Sailrite offers a super heavy duty Monster Wheel for added torque. Still, they can only handle up to #138 thread and 1/4 inch of material.

You can contact our member Techsew Ron for a manual. It is a really basic cylinder arm machine cloned from the Singer 153 series. I have one in my shop and like it for light to medium duty sewing of cylindrical work and hemming pants. Until you get your manual, here is Techsew's video tutorials and troubleshooting guides for the model 2700.

Usually, nothing. In the times when these machines were released, they only have cotton or linen thread. This required wax to set the thread and keep it from untwisting. Modern thread is either bonded nylon or polyester and it needs no wax. Howm-so-ever, there is a use for that pot in certain circumstances. If you use leather tape to baste your seams, the needle may gum up with the adhesive as you sew through it. Adding liquid silicon lube to the wax pot will help avoid thread tangles under the needle's point, or in its eye.

Remove the balance wheel. If you lay the machine down, lay it on its backside not the front. Make sure you pad the hand lift lever against direct pressure. Use foam and blankets. Bring a tackle box for small parts and screws. Ditto for loose spools of thread. Pfaff machines are expensive and so are replacement parts. Do as little damage as possible!

I moved this to the Marketplace section where goods for sale belong. Please edit you original post to include the prices, or price range and upload a few representative photos.

Metric measurements in answer to a question asked by an American member using the US inches system are not useful in this case.

Durkopp_239.pdf

Remove the presser spring. Then, if the bar is still stuck, unscrew the crank shafts and pull them off. There may be a burr interfering. Ploish the affected parts and oil. Replace the broken lever. Readjust the lift mechanism and block to limit the travel so this can't happen again.

Spring loaded, walking foot, edge guide feet are sold all over the Interwebs. Most industrial sewing machine dealers sell them. Most use the same inside foot. You can buy them on ebay too. Since you are in the UK, here are some available within your area. They have them is several spacings for the same money.

You would use a post machine to make a bag like this.

Yes, there are various types of walking foot machines. The earliest made by Singer had a spring loaded presser foot that followed the top layer as the feed dog pulled from the bottom. I have one like that; a Singer 42-5. It is quite effective considering its age (100). The same feed was used in one of the 31 class and in the 132 class machines and probably several others. The only negative with this feed is that the outer foot can slip, or get hung up on a new upper layer if it doesn't get lifted high enough to clear that layer. I think of this as a "follow foot." Another type of walking foot has a mechanically driven top foot that syncs with the feed dog; aka: dual feed. It has an alternating inside foot too, but that foot remains static. The throat plate would only have a round needle hole and the feeder teeth would be on either side. The presser foot has teeth on these machines and will tear up veg tan, or soft chrome tan leather. They are meant for webbing, synthetics, cloth, tow straps, parachute straps, vinyl signs, tarps, etc. The walking foot mechanism preferred by leather sewers is triple feed, with the feed dog, needle and inside foot moving in sync as the outer presser foot lifts and lowers. The feet are usually smooth. I call this compound feed. The Singer 111w155 is one of the most sought after used compound feed machines. The Juki LU-562 is a clone, as is the Consew 206 series. Almost any top loading triple feed sewing machine traces its design back to the 111 series. You can adjust and tweak the feed on these machines for lower or higher lift, up to the point where the cranks hit unmovable shafts or the feet hit the needle bar. They usually sew up to 3/8 inch maximum.