Wizcrafts

You might get straighter stitches with a D point needle. It has a triangular shape. I find that they also lay the thread more on the surface and don't submerge the ends like the S point needles.

Try moving up 1 or 2 needle sizes. A bigger hole takes pressure of the thread knots and makes them easier to pull up.

The reason there are classes of various machines is because Singer often produced several different varieties of particular models. For instance, the 111 series, or class, started with the 111w101 and concluded with the 111w156. Some had a different letter depending on where they were built, but were still part of the class 111. Some were compound feed walking foot machines, while another had needle feed and a flat foot. Some sewed higher than others and one had reverse Then there is the 29 class that began in the late 1800s and continued until the late 1970s or early 1980s. The bodies were similar but each incarnation had an improvement or additional function missing in previous sub-classes. I have had an early 1900s 29-4 all the way up the the last model they made: 29k172 and several in between. Now I have a 29k71 and love it. They were all Class 29 machines, for better or worse. To add to the confusion, Singer also produced specially modified sub-classes that ended with the letters: SV, for Special Version. They fell under the main class of machine they were built upon. Also, a lot of both domestic and industrial tailoring machines use the same bobbin as the early through mid 20th Century Singer 15-88,89,90 and 91. Those bobbins are sold as Class 15 bobbins.

We refer to all of the machines cloned from the Juki TSC-441 as "441 class machines."

I have a clone of that machine: a Techsew 2700. If your bobbin thread keeps popping out of the tension spring, reverse the direction of the tbobbin. I usually insert bobbins so they feed against the direction of the slot and spring. This ensures good, controllable tension and keeps the thread from jumping out of its channel. Make sure that both little screws are holding the spring in place. The one closest to the exit position controls the tension. The other one keeps it in place on the case. If you are unable to get adjustable tension in the bobbin case, replace it! Assuming you can gain control of the bobbin tension, check the entire top thread path for kinks or sharp turns, or excessive twisting from overly coily thread. If your thread is too twisty, replace the spool and try balancing the tensions again. Or, counteract the twist using the holes in the top guide post. I do that anyway, feeding through the top hole, bringing the thread around the front, then through the bottom hole. This gives a counter twist to offset any twist in the thread cone. Make sure you are threading correctly according to the manual. Adjust the check spring tension so it only has enough force to bring the spring down against the back stop bracket, wherever it is set to stop the spring. Then adjust the position of the slot to give the best lay of the thread without making a popping sound as it goes around the bobbin case and shuttle. Finally, if you still have trouble with the tension, remove the top tension spring and disks and inspect them for burrs. Ditto for all the guides and even the take-up lever. Do not wrap thread around the pin on the right side of the top disks. It is not there for that purpose.

That might be the missing piece to the hook position puzzle.

Don't worry about the vertical gap at the tab in the cutout in the throat plate. Do adjust the finger backwards so it pulls the bobbin case backwards, to almost as far as it can pull, but leave a little clearance. Its job is to pull the tag on the bobbin case to one side so the top thread doesn't get hung up on the tab.

Oi Vey! The "Class" we refer to starts with the model number of the machine. So, any Singer model starting with a 7 is a Class 7. Any Singer 111 machine is a Class 111. Any Singer 31-anything is a Class 31. Any model 15-anything is a Class 15, etc, etc.

When I look at photo #1, I see the deflector bracket in hard contact with the needle, while the hook is far away from it. I can't tell if it is actually pushing the needle away from the hook. I recommend bending the deflector inward and see if this allows the needle to get closer to the hook.

You will want one with either a roller foot or walking feet. I have a 1950s Singer walking foot post machine with a 7 inch post. It takes standard G size bobbins, like the Singer 111 machines. I usually thread it with #69 bonded thread, but it can take #92. My machine can sew about 5/16 inch and clears over 3/8 inch. It uses standard System 135x16 and x17 walking foot needles. More modern post bed machines can be had that use larger M style bobbins and sew a little thicker (3/8"). If you are looking for a new post bed machine, check this one out. Have a look in out Marketplace for used sewing machines. Maybe somebody has a post machine for sale. You can also place a wanted ad for a post machine.

Here is a motorized machine for $200 more, that has reverse.

There are a couple of options you can consider for a sewing machine for holsters and knife sheathes. None are anywhere close to your $400 budget. I am listing them with the cheapest first and most expensive last. There will be tradeoffs with the first one. Read the descriptions so you know the capabilities of each type of machine. These machines can sew at least 7/16 inch, using at least a maximum of #346 thread. You can sew holsters with #277 thread, but that is the minimum I would recommend. All these machines can tension #277 top and bottom. It has 44 pounds breaking strength. Here is a needle and thread chart showing the diameters and strengths of various sizes of bonded sewing thread used in modern industrial sewing machines. As a hand sewer, you probably use at least 4 cord linen thread, which is the same diameter as #277 bonded nylon thread. You cannot use waxed lined or any hand sewing thread in a modern lockstitch machine. Cowboy CB2500 (with or without reverse). Sews up to 7/16 inch. Bottom feed only. Up to #346 thread. 10.5 inch arm. Cowboy CB3200. Sews up to 1/2 inch with triple feed. Up to #346 thread 10.5 inch arm. Cowboy CB3500 or the Cobra Class 3. Sews up to 7/8 inch. Has triple feed. Up to #415 thread. 9 inch arm. Cowboy CB4500 or the Cobra Class 4.Sews up to 7/8 inch, has triple feed, up to #415 thread, 16.5 inch arm. I hope this helps without confusing you too much.

The alternating lift should be more like 1/8 to 3/16 inch. The inside foot can be adjusted so it comes down about the same time as the needle reaches the feed dog. This will push the outside/presser foot up higher.

I have some Serafil thread I use on occasions where I need matching red in sizes from T90 through T270. It is expensive in the USA. The Serafil thread is softer than the Cowboy bonded thread I normally use. From the spec page, Onyx looks to be a much stiffer thread. If true, you will need less bobbin and more top tension to balance the knots and it could be harder to center them in thin layers. However, the photos on the product page show perfectly set stitches. I would suggest that you tweak your machine for this thread and once it is dialed in, stick with it.

@DrmCa I think you posted this reply in the wrong topic, or sub-forum. Would you like me to move it to the correct location? Let me know where that is.

That is its serial number, not the model. The model is 15-91.

That is a Singer 15-91, a domestic sewing machine. I have a page describing the Singer 15-91 capabilities, here. In a nutshell, it will sew wallets, seat covers and flat items that can be held together with 11 pound test #69 bonded nylon thread. It maxes out at 1/4 inch of soft material, like cloth. It will sew about 1/8 to 3/16 inch of veg tan belt leather if the pressure screw is almost all the way down. The motor is attached to the body and is very expensive to replace if you blow it up. Consider it a light duty straight stitch machine that hasn't been in production in many decades.

That's what I'm talking about! That's how you do it!

It is a simple matter to loosen the set screw in the hosing for the check spring, then use a screwdriver to rotate the split shaft one way or the other until there is just enough pull to bring the spring all the way down against the bottom stopper bracket. That bracket can be moved up and down to control how long the spring keeps tension on the top thread. By carefully balancing the travel and force, you can get a decent check spring adjustment. All that remains is the position of the screw inside the curved slot. Normally, rotating the assembly all the way clockwise tightens the slack and the other way loosens the slack thread. Standard position is dead center in thee slot. I only turn it fully ccw if I need more slack thread on top. This might be if I hear the thread snap as it goes around the bobbin case/shuttle.

I would seriously think about moving up to #92 (T90) thread for this thickness and a #20 needle. Normally, I use a #19 needle with #92 thread. But, sometimes the little extra diameter of a #20 needle makes it easier to balance the knots. You are sewing tough material. Number 69 thread has under 11 pounds test. Number 92 is rated at 15 pounds and is less likely to rip apart under stress from so many layers In fact, you might even be able to get away with #138 thread, rated at 22 pounds test, using a #22 needle. Experiment! I sew a lot of patches onto leather vests. I find #69 thread to be barely acceptable for low stress patches, or for soft leather, or denim. But, if I am sewing through a thick vest and the patches are substantial, I move up to #92 thread and a #19 needle.

If the spring interferes, leave it out. Load the bobbin so it feeds against the rotation of the hook and make sure you feed the thread under the tension spring and that there are no thread stubs stuck in the slot or spring. Then adjust the bobbin tension for a smooth, steady pull. If you use the proper needle size for the thread combination, the top tension should bring the knots into the center of the work, consistently. Watch the thread spool as it unwinds to see if it is forming kinks. Some machines have a top post with multiple holes that allow you to loop the top thread around upper and lower guide holes in the opposite direction of the twist of the thread. This can counteract excessively twisty thread.

Always insert the bobbin so it feeds against the direction of the hook. If the hook turns clockwise, insert the bobbin counterclockwise. This may cause the bobbin thread to me a sharp turn into the slot that feed under the tension spring. I find this to be more controllable unless the thread is particularly sticky.

I have a second job sewing part time making blackout window blinds. They have an extended body Consew 206RB-18, which does a great job on ballistic material and Velcro. It has a large M style bobbin and uses system 135x17 needles. They ordered it with a servo motor that has a simple speed limiter knob. It can sew long or short stitches and forward and reverse match. That would definitely be an upgrade from your Singer 111. The 18 inch body is a blessing with wide material.

That's how things used to be done before everybody was online and buying with their thumbs. I still Call Bob on the phone to talk about machines and parts. That's how I used to get info before the Internet.

It looks like a drop ship middle man. If anything goes wrong you would have to depend on him to assist you with parts or service. Don't know what else to tell ya. If you are looking at getting a Cowboy, Cobra, or Techsew, the official dealers advertise here (via paid banners on top of each page) and provide after the sale service to their customers. Those advertisers keep the lights on here. That dealer is not one of our advertisers.