Wizcrafts

Here is a motorized machine for $200 more, that has reverse.

There are a couple of options you can consider for a sewing machine for holsters and knife sheathes. None are anywhere close to your $400 budget. I am listing them with the cheapest first and most expensive last. There will be tradeoffs with the first one. Read the descriptions so you know the capabilities of each type of machine. These machines can sew at least 7/16 inch, using at least a maximum of #346 thread. You can sew holsters with #277 thread, but that is the minimum I would recommend. All these machines can tension #277 top and bottom. It has 44 pounds breaking strength. Here is a needle and thread chart showing the diameters and strengths of various sizes of bonded sewing thread used in modern industrial sewing machines. As a hand sewer, you probably use at least 4 cord linen thread, which is the same diameter as #277 bonded nylon thread. You cannot use waxed lined or any hand sewing thread in a modern lockstitch machine. Cowboy CB2500 (with or without reverse). Sews up to 7/16 inch. Bottom feed only. Up to #346 thread. 10.5 inch arm. Cowboy CB3200. Sews up to 1/2 inch with triple feed. Up to #346 thread 10.5 inch arm. Cowboy CB3500 or the Cobra Class 3. Sews up to 7/8 inch. Has triple feed. Up to #415 thread. 9 inch arm. Cowboy CB4500 or the Cobra Class 4.Sews up to 7/8 inch, has triple feed, up to #415 thread, 16.5 inch arm. I hope this helps without confusing you too much.

The alternating lift should be more like 1/8 to 3/16 inch. The inside foot can be adjusted so it comes down about the same time as the needle reaches the feed dog. This will push the outside/presser foot up higher.

I have some Serafil thread I use on occasions where I need matching red in sizes from T90 through T270. It is expensive in the USA. The Serafil thread is softer than the Cowboy bonded thread I normally use. From the spec page, Onyx looks to be a much stiffer thread. If true, you will need less bobbin and more top tension to balance the knots and it could be harder to center them in thin layers. However, the photos on the product page show perfectly set stitches. I would suggest that you tweak your machine for this thread and once it is dialed in, stick with it.

@DrmCa I think you posted this reply in the wrong topic, or sub-forum. Would you like me to move it to the correct location? Let me know where that is.

That is its serial number, not the model. The model is 15-91.

That is a Singer 15-91, a domestic sewing machine. I have a page describing the Singer 15-91 capabilities, here. In a nutshell, it will sew wallets, seat covers and flat items that can be held together with 11 pound test #69 bonded nylon thread. It maxes out at 1/4 inch of soft material, like cloth. It will sew about 1/8 to 3/16 inch of veg tan belt leather if the pressure screw is almost all the way down. The motor is attached to the body and is very expensive to replace if you blow it up. Consider it a light duty straight stitch machine that hasn't been in production in many decades.

That's what I'm talking about! That's how you do it!

It is a simple matter to loosen the set screw in the hosing for the check spring, then use a screwdriver to rotate the split shaft one way or the other until there is just enough pull to bring the spring all the way down against the bottom stopper bracket. That bracket can be moved up and down to control how long the spring keeps tension on the top thread. By carefully balancing the travel and force, you can get a decent check spring adjustment. All that remains is the position of the screw inside the curved slot. Normally, rotating the assembly all the way clockwise tightens the slack and the other way loosens the slack thread. Standard position is dead center in thee slot. I only turn it fully ccw if I need more slack thread on top. This might be if I hear the thread snap as it goes around the bobbin case/shuttle.

I would seriously think about moving up to #92 (T90) thread for this thickness and a #20 needle. Normally, I use a #19 needle with #92 thread. But, sometimes the little extra diameter of a #20 needle makes it easier to balance the knots. You are sewing tough material. Number 69 thread has under 11 pounds test. Number 92 is rated at 15 pounds and is less likely to rip apart under stress from so many layers In fact, you might even be able to get away with #138 thread, rated at 22 pounds test, using a #22 needle. Experiment! I sew a lot of patches onto leather vests. I find #69 thread to be barely acceptable for low stress patches, or for soft leather, or denim. But, if I am sewing through a thick vest and the patches are substantial, I move up to #92 thread and a #19 needle.

If the spring interferes, leave it out. Load the bobbin so it feeds against the rotation of the hook and make sure you feed the thread under the tension spring and that there are no thread stubs stuck in the slot or spring. Then adjust the bobbin tension for a smooth, steady pull. If you use the proper needle size for the thread combination, the top tension should bring the knots into the center of the work, consistently. Watch the thread spool as it unwinds to see if it is forming kinks. Some machines have a top post with multiple holes that allow you to loop the top thread around upper and lower guide holes in the opposite direction of the twist of the thread. This can counteract excessively twisty thread.

Always insert the bobbin so it feeds against the direction of the hook. If the hook turns clockwise, insert the bobbin counterclockwise. This may cause the bobbin thread to me a sharp turn into the slot that feed under the tension spring. I find this to be more controllable unless the thread is particularly sticky.

I have a second job sewing part time making blackout window blinds. They have an extended body Consew 206RB-18, which does a great job on ballistic material and Velcro. It has a large M style bobbin and uses system 135x17 needles. They ordered it with a servo motor that has a simple speed limiter knob. It can sew long or short stitches and forward and reverse match. That would definitely be an upgrade from your Singer 111. The 18 inch body is a blessing with wide material.

That's how things used to be done before everybody was online and buying with their thumbs. I still Call Bob on the phone to talk about machines and parts. That's how I used to get info before the Internet.

It looks like a drop ship middle man. If anything goes wrong you would have to depend on him to assist you with parts or service. Don't know what else to tell ya. If you are looking at getting a Cowboy, Cobra, or Techsew, the official dealers advertise here (via paid banners on top of each page) and provide after the sale service to their customers. Those advertisers keep the lights on here. That dealer is not one of our advertisers.

These photos won't open on a Windows computer unless the owner buys a paid extension. They are Apple specific file types.

You contact him via our private message system.

It would help if you post a link to the company website and that machine.

I don't see any reverse lever. So, no, it is forward ho only! Spin the work around to do Poor Man's Reverse, like I do.

That is the second main attraction of the higher lift machines. Until you have to raise something up to clear hardware or shapes hanging down on the left you won't appreciate the holster or stirrup plates. I have used both many times and would never willingly give up that extra clearance under the feet.

Dwight; I went straight up to a CB4500 for the longer arm and harp space and the extra thickness capacity. Some of our holsters are 3/4 inch along the rib and one was a full 7/8 inch. A lot of our sheath work starts at a half inch and easily hits 5/8 inch. The CB3200 has an upper limit of a half inch. Why be limited? Figure out if you may need to routinely exceed 1/2 inch, and/or need to sew wider items and buy accordingly.

Let me see what you come up with. I will try it and get back to you. The only issue I see is that the slot would have to be wider to accommodate the feeder. But, I have confidence you can do it. That said, I only use the flat plate for very thick holsters and sheathes to gain a little extra clearance under the feet. It would be worth testing a flat plate with a 1/4 inch slot. I do use the holster plate to get past hardware on the bottom. I would like to try a modified raised holster plate with your narrow feeder style. It will assist to even feeding, especially in reverse (where the unassisted reverse lags).

I'm here to tell you that the narrow plate and feeder made a big difference for me. I can use the cb4500 with thick or thin material by just changing the needle and thread. I would normally switch to a different machine for the lighter work. But, some jobs just seem to fit the 4500 architecture better. The 16.5 inch arm being one. Besides, my Techsew 2700 is setup with white #69 thread and a #18 needle and I hate to ramp it up for one job. I use it a lot with that combo. The 4500 can handle #138 thread easily, plus with a leather point needle, but even better with these new parts. Thin or soft work stays on top of the throat plate now.

Could you please also post these files in the 3D and Laser Printers section of the LWN?

The only portable sewing machines that can even remotely handle leather work are those made and sold by Sailrite. Period. They have dual feed; top and bottom, via serrated or pebble grain teeth on the feet and feed dog. The inside foot and needle are static. The outer foot moves in sync with the dog. They use Class 15 bobbins, just like the ancient Singer 15-91 and the 30-15 tailoring machines. Sailrite offers a super heavy duty Monster Wheel for added torque. Still, they can only handle up to #138 thread and 1/4 inch of material.