Wizcrafts

I've owned 2 ULS and currently run a CB4500. When I got the machine it had a brushless motor that started with a jerk at some non-zero speed. I replaced it with a brushed motor with a speed limiter dial and pot that starts at zero and smoothly increases with foot movement to the maximum allowed by my 3:1 reducer. It doesn't run fast. If I wanted fast I could swap the reducer for a 2:1 model, which I happen to have laying around. You can buy a complete servo motor and reducer system for your ULS or C-R machines from Campbell-Randall. I have tested this setup and I can tell you that at even one half stitch per second, nothing on this earth can stop the needle and awl from moving as long as your toe is pressing down on the Go pedal! You can see it in action in the YouTube video below...

https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-110V The motor you asked about is named the Sailrite Workhorse. It is a brushless 3/4 hp servo motor. Based on that you'd think it could power a large stitcher. But, I found this disclaimer n ear the bottom of the product page: "The Workhorse Servo Motor is not designed for use with heavyweight balance wheels like the Monster® II Balance Wheel. Use of a balance wheel like this could damage the motor and will void the warranty." The Reliable SewQuiet 6000SM brushless DC servomotor has the same specs and may also be unable to power a heavy flywheel.

Did you miss this? Ron offered to send the instructions to you.

This machine is probably meant to trim down new outsoles after they have been glued to a shoe. After that they would be squeezed together by smooth wheels, or placed in a sole press, or sewn on an outsole stitcher.

Your servo is brushless and uses up and down pushbutton combinations to set various parameters, including the direction it rotates. If you have the manual, consult it. If you don't request a copy from Techsew.

On the TS 2700, when the stitch lever is up the machine sews forward. Holding it down sews in reverse. If that is not happening now, take it back to the mechanic who messed it up and get him to fix it. Hire a translator if necessary.

Verify the timing and change the needle, adjusting as necessary. Then balance the threads to center the knots. Make sure the check spring stops moving down after the needle fully penetrates the leather.

If the bottom of the needle bar hits the raising inside or outside foot, reduce the walking foot ratio to the absolute minimum lift. The lower the lift, the thicker you can sew with any needle system.

A System 190 needle is about 3/16 inch longer than a System 135x16. That is total length. The distance from the top or bottom of the eye to the bottom of the needle might not give exactly 3/16 inch gain if raised all the way up. Your needle bar may still hit the top on the inside and/or outside foot. Moving parts inside the head might bind up at that height.

You might gain 1/8 inch more capacity by using a System 190 needle. Nonetheless, the interconnected inner and outer foot bar cranks will probably max out at 3/8 inch working height.

It varies more with other base materials. Bonded polyester has a lower breaking strength and Nomex is almost half as strong. I do a lot of sewing with Nomex and nylon, but only a little with polyester. I find it much easier to cut through Nomex, or cotton/linen, than nylon or polyester. When I do have to cut something off, I go inline with a seam ripper (up to b92). The strongest seams I have sewn were on an old Singer 28 stitch bar tacker, using b69 thread. The entire item would dissolve before those sewn items would come off!

There is no conversion process. Simply use the new System 135x16 or 17 needles. They have the same length to the eye and diameter of the mounting shank. They differ in that they have a cutout scarf over the top of the eye. If they need to be moved closer or farther from the hook, use the lateral adjustment screw over the needle clamping screw. There are still needles sold as System 29x3 and 29x4. For all intents and purposes, they are rebadged System 135 x 16 and 17 needles. The original System 29 needles had no scarf over the eye. Modern needles have a scarf cut into the body above the eye. If you can find actual 29 needles without a scarf, hang onto them. They would be a little stronger than the new ones with cutout scarfs.

I have a bunch of Family Sew FS-550s servo motors. A couple connect to speed reducers and have great slow speed control.

That is correct as long as both needles have the same profile/shape at the point. If one is inline and the other on an angle, the stitches will lie differently on the material. The diameter of the body portion above the eye will be identical. As long as the shank is the same diameter, either system can be used in the needle bar/clamp. My primary walking foot needles are 135x16. But, I've got a few packs of Schmetz 134x35 in S point for inline stitches that look the same as those sewn on my Cowboy stitcher. The stitch length must be increased due to the inline slicing point.

Different points make different shaped holes. The smallest holes I get are with either a tri-point needle. The hole has three edges and is very close to the size of a round point needle. Slicing leather points cut an elongated oval-ish shape that is either inline (Schmetz S point), or on some angle. The stitches made with an S point appear much shorter because the edges are inline. The stitches from a slanted edge have more space between the edges, but lay off center. Tri-points lay inline and have good distance between stitches. Some people use round point needles in leather, but run the thread through a silicon lube pot on top, and maybe also use titanium needles to offset the grabbing.

The DDL 8700H is a great fabric sewing machine that also sews vinyl. Here is a YouTube video showing one being demo'd. The machine may or may not move leather depending on its top and bottom surface details. The feed dogs do all of the work. The denser the leather/material, the stronger the foot pressure and thread tensions need to be. Also, the stitch length shortens with added height. It starts at no more than about 5 to the inch into about 1/8 inch of soft material.

I found an article explaining why Apple iPhones now default to the .heic photo format and how to change it back to .jpg. It goes into detail about the heic format and compares it to the standard .jpg.

HEIC is Apple's proprietary version of the HEIF or High-Efficiency Image File format. When it comes to personal computers, you have these major operating system options: Apple MacIntosh, Microsoft Windows, Google Chrome and open source Linux. Each has its own quirks and file types and the apps to open them vary. You uploaded a file that only people using Apple products can open, unless they already had a special app that recognizes Apple proprietary (not free or open source) file types. Because .heic is an in-house format for Apple Corp, most of their products will save in and open it. Other operating system producers would have to pay a royalty to Apple to include a decoder for this format. The .heic file type is a specialty extension used in professional studio work and Apple iDevices. Perhaps your phone has an option to save photographs in a more common extension, like .jpg. Then the rest of the World can open your photos.

Consew produces some 220 volt servo motors, as does Enduro. Whatever you look at, make sure it is specifically designed to fit under an industrial sewing machine table, fitting the same bolts as the original motor, and hook up to a floor pedal. If you intend to sew slowly, ask the seller to fit it with a 45 or 50mm pulley. This will slow down the maximum speed and multiply the torque. You will need a new vbelt to go to the machine. It is hard to guess what the difference in length will be until you install the motor. Try to use the original belt and note how much too long or short it is. Then order the appropriate length that is within the motor mount adjuster's range.

Why do you need a 220 volt servo motor? The standard in the USA is 110vac. The servo motors I buy cost $160 delivered and they are analog, with a speed limited knob. All of them are 110 vac.

If your machine has a spare hole on top you might could buy a post with a few holes and pound it in a bit. Ideally, there should be about an inch between the top and bottom and even better, they would be 90 degrees apart. I have that kind of top post on a few of my machines and they are perfect for counteracting twisty thread, or adding extra tension on top without cranking down the beehive spring, which tends to limit the separation when the feet are lifted.

@Dave9111 - You can counteract a particular twist in a spool of thread by wrapping in the opposite direction around a thread post or guide that has 2 or more holes. I do this with twisty thread by feeding it counterclockwise through two holes in a post. You might try that, or go clockwise to see if one or the other improves the thread holding its shape.

As an experiment, try using only the left needle and feed the right thread to its guide hole. If it still unravels, the hook and needle position/timing is the problem. If not, something in the thread path is the problem. Or, there could be an unseen burr on the thread guide hole in the needle bar. Have you removed the sliding cover on the left and watched the hook action at pickoff time? That could reveal the cause.. The hook may be damaged, or not properly distanced, or timed. Did you read the early replies in the original topic?

I like Organ titanium coated needles for their resistance to the leather tape I baste seams with. I like Schmetz for their S point inline oval leather point needles. I also use Groz Beckert needles. I avoid no name brands.

Do let us know when you figure it out and what the problem turned out to be.