Wizcrafts

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In a way you are both right and wrong. Juki themselves market the TSC-441 as a machine to sew buffing wheels and other thick materials, as well as horse blankets and saddles. The standard presser and alternating foot set have teeth on the bottom to grip cloth. All you have to do to convert it into a leather sewer is to buy a set of smooth harness maker's feet and a smooth feed dog, which are standard equipment on 441 clones in the US, Canada and Australia. My CB4500 came with the so-called "blanket" feet in the drawer in case I need to patch a horse blanket, or sew denim garments.

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Tell me more about the width and hole size of the narrow feed dog and needle plate. I have a cb4500.

I wrote the blog article about dumbing down a Cowboy, Cobra, or similar harness stitcher on my R&W Custom Leatherworks website. It explains what is involved in getting a heavy duty leather stitcher to sew thinner work than what it was built to handle. It takes no more than 20 minutes to learn this and make the changes as needed. Afterward, the changes are reversed when one needs to sew thick leather.

I never heard of that brand. It is probably a Chines or Japanese machine that was rebadged. It looks to be run hard and put up wet. That said, I see it has a roller foot. The top tension spring looks to be light duty, meaning thin thread capacity. I'd say it is suitable for sewing soft leather hats and bags, or for hemming pants. My guess is it can handle up to #69 bonded thread using a #18 needle. If there is a phone number on the name tag, contact that company with the model number to see if they know anything about it. Otherwise, you have nothing to go by. You will need to buy a table that is cutout for that bed and has a suitable oil pan and knee or foot lift pedal that fits to the machine head. You'll also need a motor, switchbox and v-belt to go to the machine's balance wheel. If the machine still has its mounting pivot clamps on the back (doubtful), the table will need matching clamp pivot mounts. If those are missing you will need to figure out what type it takes and buy them. These things could run you a few hundred dollars.

That model is a straight stitch, bottom feed only, light duty sewing machine meant for sewing cloth garments with cotton or polycore thread. It was built sometime during the 1970s or early 1980s. There is no manual available from the manufacturer as it was custom built by Mitsubishi Japan for Cutline USA. If anybody has anything for this brand and model it would be CutSew. Good luck!

I believe that the Cowboy CB3200 is a good machine that meets your requirements. You will have to find a dealer who services Sweden. I will post about this if I get that information.

In my first reply, under the double asterisks, I mentioned different needle points. The Type 794 Schmetz S point is an inline oval that produces straight stitch lines. But, the narrow end points cause the holes to appear shorter than they actually are. If you get some 7x4 tri or dia point needles you will still have a straight line, but the stitches will appear longer. There will be more meat between the holes too. Bob sells these needles. FYI: I didn't mention it but regular 7x3 round point needles also produce a straight stitch line and give the maximum distance between the stitches and strength. However, they squeak and may grab inside the leather because they puncture it like a bullet, or round awl, versus slicing like the leather points do.

I use #24 needle for #207 thread on both sides.

I don't mix thread sizes unless the top thread is larger for appearance only. But that's my choice. I always pick the strongest size thread for the project. If I am sewing something a quarter inch thick. or less, #207 top and bottom will probably hold it together. But, if I sew a welted holster that's a half inch or more, I use #277 or #346 thread, top and bottom. I have needles up to #27 to poke the holes required to pull up the knots with thick thread.* * The thicker the thread, the larger the lockstitch knots are. If a particular needle size (diameter) is just sufficient when you use a size smaller bobbin thread, move up one needle size for the same size thread on top and in the bobbin. You can tell if this is necessary because it will be hard to hide the knots on the bottom. You can either over-tension the top thread, under-tension the bobbin thread, or just use a larger needle.** ** Using a larger needle with heavy thread may make the stitches look too close together with an S point needle. The options are to use a diamond or tri-point needle, or slightly angle the S point needle, or to increase the stitch length to compensate. This is just a matter of appearance as long as the stitches have some leather between them; at least as much as the filled hole sizes, if not more. I have sewn thick holsters, with #346 thread, at 6 stitches per inch and they look and hold fine. But, 8 to the inch is not a very good idea! There is a danger the stress could cause the holes to merge and weaken the stitch line.

Here are online manuals: Shoe Systems Plus McKay 77 YouTube McKay instructional video DN 86 Lockstitch Mckay (parts and a link to a manual)

Here is the English translation of the French comments. hello i have exactly the same for 6 years now. I do not have the exact date but it dates from the 50s and it is a semi industrial which has been limited in production and therefore a rare machine. It is really robust and very pleasant to sew, it has a double drive. On the other hand, rare model so rare pieces… they are all at least 50euros. I like it a lot, this machine I find it difficult to part with it, it has a slightly military style that I like a lot. here I hope to have helped you a little.

System 29x3 (round point) and 29x4 (leather point) needles are specifically made to fit Singer model 29 patchers. The needle must be fully inserted into its clamp. The clamp itself can be loosened by the top screw and removed, or even moved sideways to get it closer or farther away from the hook. The only way to time the machine is by advancing or retarding the hook. If this machine is new to you, remove the needle clamp and the needle and tap it on a hard surface to shake out any foreign material. I once found a small broken off piece of a needle shank inside a needle clamp. That 'splained why I couldn't get it to sew with series 29 needles! The stitch tightness and loop size can be altered by playing with the adjustments on top of the machine. For instance, if the barrel adjuster is backed all the way out so it has no effect on the take-up lever, The only adjustment for the thread will be the flat spring on top. It is secured with a standard coiled spring. The harder the spring tension is on that lever, the tighter the stitches will be. However, there is also a chance that this tension might cause a sub-par loop during the down/up/down jog. Early models of the 29 series machines had a fingertip adjuster on top of the flat spring to give it some free motion during those critical moments. Sometimes, one also had to spread out the coils in the spring to get reliable stitches. Since your machine has the additional barrel adjuster in the frame, you can engage it a little at a time to try to find a happy place where the loop forms reliably and the stitches aren't too loose or too tight. Lastly, there is a small paddle shaped spring in the needle bar, sitting in a cutout just above the needle mounting clamp. I refer to it as The Paddle Spring. I have other words I throw at these springs from time to time, but this is a publicly viewable forum. The paddle spring has one job: to hold the top thread in place as the needle bar makes its little job from BDC during the pickoff cycle. A fresh spring will hold the thread quiet tightly so it doesn't move until the hook picks it off. This ensures the best quality of the thread loop. However, over time, or after somebody gets the bright idea they can run heavy thread in a shoe patcher, the paddle spring gets stressed out and has less effect on the top thread during the pickoff cycle. If you find it damn near impossible to get the machine to pick off the thread loop reliably and keep getting skipped stitches, it might mean that the paddle spring needs to be tweaked or replaced. This is not a fun job and you may need to visit a shrink afterward. Just sayin'. I am kind of working on a tips article for adjusting shoe patchers. I hope to actually get it posted before I die or lose my mind. I hope this helps rather than confuses you. Uwe has a better way with technical words that I do.

You can buy replacement screws and a new needle bar from dealers and suppliers. Every part in a Singer 111w155 should be replaceable with either NOS or aftermarket parts.

It is meant for upholstery.

Failure to pick up the thread loop can be caused by using the wrong needle or by inserting it incorrectly. All Singer patchers used System 29 (x3 and x4) needles in the beginning. This later merged with System 332. Those systems are not plentiful nowadays, so we use System 135x16 or 135x17 walking foot needles instead. The needle must be all the way up in the bar and aligned with the rib on the left and scarf (if any) on the right. The original 29x3 and x4 had no scarf over the eye on the right. You cannot use longer or shorter needles than it was made for.

It looks like it might be a twin needle machine. I looked through some pictures of various Juki machines and only twin needle models even resemble yours, with the three plates around the throat plate.

The 111w103 is actually an upholstery sewing machine. Equipped with a leather point needle it can sew rifle slings, guitar straps, lined belts, pouches, cases, vests, jackets, as well as seat covers and light horse tack. If you use #138 bonded thread the work should hold together as it has 22 pounds test. Change to a round point needle and it will do a fine job sewing vinyl, webbing, sailcloth, awnings, Sunbrella, signs, banners and denim garments. You can determine the condition of the stitch length adjuster by turning it clockwise and counterclockwise as you sew. the farther in you turn it the longer the stitches will be and vice versa. If the adjuster turns smoothly in and out without jumping , and the stitch length varies as you turn it, assume the threads are intact. If it turns so far then jumps back, some threads are broken off. If nothing happens as you turn the knob, the threads or the puck on the knob are shot. The tapered shaft with the knob is replaceable. I paid $100 for the last one I bought. It needed work to get it going dependably. A friend bought one for $300 and then had to invest in a new timing belt, then paid me to replace it. Not a fun job! HINT: If the stitch adjuster threads are shot but the machine forms good tight stitches, offer less due to the defect. Then learn about how you can change the stitch length under the hood. It isn't as convenient as turning the knob, but it works once you learn how to do it. I learned this secret from traveling Romanian Gypsies who wore babuskas as they sewed on machines that went Tapokita Tapokita.

You can probably find lower profile feet, or grind down and polish the bottom of a standard set.

So, lower the presser and vibrating foot bars until they clear the needebar.

Try advancing the hook a couple degrees. Also, loosen the set screw in the check spring disks and rotate them clockwise to the right of center. You might also have to back off the round nut on the shaft. I change my check spring centering often so I leave the set screw a little loose in the slot and loosen/tighten the round nut when I want to readjust the position in the slot. This setting gives more or less slack thread to the hook. I rarely change the bottom stop bracket once it is dialed in.

I had one of those machines until a year ago. I used it to sew wallets and vests with #69 and #92 bonded thread. That machine should sew a 1/4 inch stack of veg-tan belt leather with #138 bonded thread, using a #23 leather point needle, but you'll have to crank down the foot pressure screw. It can actually sew 5/16 inch, but probably not hard density leather. It uses what is defined as a standard 1x capacity type "G" bobbin, which also used in the later model 111w155. You need to be aware that the stitch length is adjusted by turning a knob on a pointed end shaft that protrudes from the center of the balance wheel. The knob has a little puck on the inside that rides inside tapered threads that are machined into the end of the main shaft. The main shaft is bored to accept the tapered shaft. The further in the adjuster goes, the longer the stitch length will be and vice versa. The problem is that those threads weaken and break off after years of use and abuse. It is difficult to find proper threaded replacement shafts and the replacement job is very complex.

It won't sew any higher or use heavier thread. But, it does have reverse. The bobbins are the same size G. Both machines are clones of the venerable Singer 111w155. There was a Juki LU-563 that had a larger double capacity bobbin and reverse. That would be an upgrade for you. The reverse function may need to be tweaked to get the stitches to line up in fwd and rev.

Your needle/hook timing is probably retarded. The hook should arrive at least 1/16" above the eye after the needle lifts 3/32" above BDC. I time mine a little higher up in the scarf. Until I did the top thread made a snapping sound going around the hook and the check spring double or triple stroked. Advancing the timing can cure this. Once you time the machine properly your check spring adjustments will be more effective.