Wizcrafts

I have multiple sewing machines in my shop. When it comes to sewing shoes, vests, Cowboy or biker hats, ball caps, or shallow bags, I use a 7 inch post bed machine. I can rotate the work around the post. If I need to sew something long and hollow, like a boot, pouch, purse, or deep bag, I use a boot patcher. I have a Techsew 2700 cylinder arm machine on a U shape table. I use it to sew cuffs, hem pants, sew around the outside of bags, etc. Those items never give me any problem due to the shape of the table. It even came with a flat table attachment. A well equipped custom shop can have more than one type of sewing machine. Mine happens to have 9 with another walking foot machine at home.

You'll have to get the thread unwound from the bobbin case before using the machine again. If there is a stub long enough to grab, try pulling the thread out as you wiggle the hand wheel (unthread the needle first). If the thread won't come out, the bobbin case will have to be removed and that is not really for newbies. If you must do this yourself, have a magnetic pickup tool nearby as you remove the tiny screws that hold the bracket on that secures the bobbin basket in the shuttle. Better yet, magnetize the small blade screwdriver.

Time the hook so it intersects the needle about 1/16 inch above the eye after the needle has risen about 3/32 of an inch above BDC. Also, make sure the needle is aligned with the rib on the left and the scarf on the right. Ensure your needle is the proper size for the thread and proper type of point for the material (round for cloth and wovens, and oval/wedge, tripoint, or diamond for leather). Check the motion of the check spring. It must lift with the take-up lever and keep the top thread taut until the needle fully pierces the material. If it stops moving down too soon the needle will pierce the thread and rat it. Adjust the bottom motion stop bracket up or down as required.

We have a sub-forum dedicated to discussing 3D printers and lasers. That would be a good place to pursue a 3D printed shuttle.

The Singer 20 series are zig-zag machines that can be used as straight stitch by zeroing the side throw.

There is a difference between machine error and operator error. If a machine has been adjusted and readjusted and a thread jamming situation persists, it may not be the machine itself that's at fault. Most top loading (vertical hook) industrial sewing machines are subject to jamming the top thread around the bobbin basket unless you hold back the starting threads for a couple of stitches. It is what it is. Hold back the top and bottom thread for a few stitches and the jamming will probable go away. If you can't grab the bottom thread, at least hold the top thread back and to the right. If the knot is visible on top from a top tension imbalance, pull down on the bottom thread when you are done sewing, before trimming the thread. You will be able to hide the knots after a few tries. Note that this thread jamming can also happen on horizontal hook machines. I have to hold back the starting threads on a Consew 206RBL-18 or I get a jam. It is what it is.

The entire shuttle housing can be raised, but I don't remember the details. I do recall that if you back off the tapered pins that the clearance increases between the driving gear and the shuttle gear.

Before you start turning 4 sided screws, does your ULS have the new gear driven servo motor setup? If so, that may be the sound you are hearing. Those motors are geared high and tight. You can start troubleshooting the binding by raising the shuttle drive compartment a little. This will increase the slack in the shuttle drive gears, but if that was the cause of the noise and grinding, it is a cheap fix. Inspect all paired gears to see if there is foreign material in the teeth. Move some of the gears laterally if they are too tight. I always ran my ULSes a bit loose. They were noisy, but never bound up or gnashed the gears. There was something special about the clashing and clanging of metal on metal when I floored the beasts at 800 spm (15/second)!

I honestly don't know that. I would be concerned about the stress a larger bonded thread would exert on the loopers and the needles. You could buy several small spools of #92 thread and a pack of #19 needles in system DCx27 and see how it works out. There are other sergers made for thicker thread and heavy material, like rugs. But, I think they use a non-bonded, soft thread that is larger in diameter.

Sailrite makes a portable zig-zag walking foot machine with top and bottom feed. Some of our members have and use it.

Contact Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, at 866-362-7397 about replacement parts for Cowboy sewing machines sold in the USA

They are for school room windows in the event of an active shooter.

I also use an MO-6700 at my second job; sewing blackout window blinds. Initially I set it up with #69 bonded nylon and it sewed it perfectly with #16 or 18 needles. However, I wanted to up the ante and have flame resistant edging so I changed to Tex 40 Nomen thread, using a #14 needle. This thread lies so much flatter and also holds onto the double sided tape I buy from Wawak to hold seams and Velcro in place for sewing. The nylon thread simply doesn't hold onto the tape because it is lubed.

The Cowboy CB2500 is like the GA5 machines. It is available from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines with either a flat or roller foot.

A Union Lockstitch, or a Number 9 machine produce a bottom appearance almost like hand stitching.

The reason the stitch length gets shorter as the thickness increases is because of the pendulum effect of the top pivoting needle bar. The swing is always longest at the bottom of a pendulum and decreases as you move up towards the pivot point. Think of the throat plate height as the bottom. As you reach the limit of thickness a machine can negotiate, the needle enters higher up, closer to the pivot point, causing shorter stitches.

I've owned 2 ULS and currently run a CB4500. When I got the machine it had a brushless motor that started with a jerk at some non-zero speed. I replaced it with a brushed motor with a speed limiter dial and pot that starts at zero and smoothly increases with foot movement to the maximum allowed by my 3:1 reducer. It doesn't run fast. If I wanted fast I could swap the reducer for a 2:1 model, which I happen to have laying around. You can buy a complete servo motor and reducer system for your ULS or C-R machines from Campbell-Randall. I have tested this setup and I can tell you that at even one half stitch per second, nothing on this earth can stop the needle and awl from moving as long as your toe is pressing down on the Go pedal! You can see it in action in the YouTube video below...

https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-110V The motor you asked about is named the Sailrite Workhorse. It is a brushless 3/4 hp servo motor. Based on that you'd think it could power a large stitcher. But, I found this disclaimer n ear the bottom of the product page: "The Workhorse Servo Motor is not designed for use with heavyweight balance wheels like the Monster® II Balance Wheel. Use of a balance wheel like this could damage the motor and will void the warranty." The Reliable SewQuiet 6000SM brushless DC servomotor has the same specs and may also be unable to power a heavy flywheel.

Did you miss this? Ron offered to send the instructions to you.

This machine is probably meant to trim down new outsoles after they have been glued to a shoe. After that they would be squeezed together by smooth wheels, or placed in a sole press, or sewn on an outsole stitcher.

Your servo is brushless and uses up and down pushbutton combinations to set various parameters, including the direction it rotates. If you have the manual, consult it. If you don't request a copy from Techsew.

On the TS 2700, when the stitch lever is up the machine sews forward. Holding it down sews in reverse. If that is not happening now, take it back to the mechanic who messed it up and get him to fix it. Hire a translator if necessary.

Verify the timing and change the needle, adjusting as necessary. Then balance the threads to center the knots. Make sure the check spring stops moving down after the needle fully penetrates the leather.

If the bottom of the needle bar hits the raising inside or outside foot, reduce the walking foot ratio to the absolute minimum lift. The lower the lift, the thicker you can sew with any needle system.

A System 190 needle is about 3/16 inch longer than a System 135x16. That is total length. The distance from the top or bottom of the eye to the bottom of the needle might not give exactly 3/16 inch gain if raised all the way up. Your needle bar may still hit the top on the inside and/or outside foot. Moving parts inside the head might bind up at that height.