Wizcrafts

The Juki LU-562 is a Japanese clone of the Singer 111w155. It uses the same "standard" size bobbin as the Singer 111. One is very good condition might be worth 4 or 5 hundred bucks; 6 tops. The Artisan on the pedestal stand might bring 1300 or so. It is a heavy duty stitcher that sold for about $2700 new. The Tippmann could be a Boss manual sewing machine, or an air operated sewing machine, or a clicker press. Which is it? If you want to try selling these machines on our forum, please place an ad in our Marketplace section, under Machinery > Sewing and stitching > Used. Include prices and your location, as well as contact info.

I have a similar machine (a clone). Wallets yes, holsters no!

I hope you didn't pay very much for this fixer upper! It needs a lot of parts and work.

The Cowboy CB227R is a clone of your Consew. In the description sidebar it says they have a flat table attachment available. You can contact the dealer about it. You must have a pedestal table to mount it. I have a bigger machine that has a flat bed attachment that has long bolts that go into holes drilled into the pedestal and fasten with nuts and washers. The one for the 227 would probably work the same way.

I only use a #22 with #138 thread when sewing soft temper material. Anything that is dense will be easier to sew with a #23 needle. It also calls for more torque to punch through.

Several years ago, I tried sewing 8 ounces of chrome tan (4-5 oz) lined with suede (3oz), with #138 thread and a #23 needle, at different speeds and found that the needle started smoking at about 9 stitches per second. Above that the smoking got worse and the thread eventually melted or shredded.

The member's IP address suggests that he is in France. But, he could be using a VPN to mask his true location.

Do me a favor and let us know if the U style bobbins are a good fit, or if they are too big.

I recently mentioned System 134-35 needles vs 135x17 (and 135x16) in another topic. The difference from the top of the mounting shank to the eye is only 0.8mm shorter in 134-35. Some folks and some dealers adjust their timing to use either system and still be in time. This is done by setting the needle bar a little lower with 135x17 so that the hook will arrive higher above the eye so that System 134-35 needles will be just above the eye and pick off the thread loop. On your machine, the dealer raised the needle bar to accommodate the longer needles. You might be able to use either if the hook is higher above the eye than usual. Why would you use System 134-35? Because they are available in S point from Groz-Beckert and Schmetz. This is an inline leather point needle.

I think that Claes are the only patchers that can do longer stitches than 4 to the inch. Singer patchers are limited to 5/inch. I used an Adler 30-70 that was capable of 4 to the inch. My Adler 30-7 can't quite give that length but comes close. I have never seen a patcher sew 2 to the inch. It would have to have longer legs than the long throw Adlers. However, two of my patchers have a T bar on top that is used for darning. This lifts the foot off the work long enough to pull it for long stitches.

This is one way I lock starting and ending stitches if I don't want to, or simply can't backtack or spin the work around. I call it double-tapping the stitches. With two knots buried in the same hole they aren't coming out any time soon.

I was a little confused by this post because of the mention of System 134-35 needles. I have since learned a few things about them and why one might choose to use them in a machine that normally uses System 135x16 needles. As Bob mentioned before me, there is only a 32nd of an inch (0.8mm) difference in the length from the top of the shank to the eye. One thing about the system 134-35 needles is that Schmetz needles are available in an "S" point, just like the S points used in the Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew big harness stitchers in their System 794 needles. So, for the loss of 3/32 inch of length one can get S point needles that sew inline stitches instead of slightly tilted stitches. As I have also learned, if one advances the hook (not recommended), or re-positions the needle bar down a tad (better), the hook can arrive higher up in the scarf above the eye with system 135x16 needles and still be in time with the ever so slightly shorter System 134-35 needles. This way you could switch between regular leather points and Schmetz S points with no further adjustments. I haven't tried this yet, but intend to. One just has to ensure that the needle moves about 3/32" up from BDC when the hook intersects the needle higher up in the scarf, maybe 5/32" above the eye instead of 1/16". Once I get me some 134-35 schmetz S points I will report my findings based upon a Singer 139w109 long arm walking foot machine.

The Cobra 26 uses top loading large “U” style bobbins, which are oft referred to as Juki bobbins, as used in the Juki LU-563 and LU-1508 series machines. There are double the capacity of the industry standard G size bobbins used in the Singer 111 type machines. You can buy U style bobbins from most industrial sewing machine dealers and online suppliers. Or, contact Leather Machine Company for their price. I would by a pack of ten and preload them with various sizes or colors of thread to match your projects.

You might want to convert those photos into something that can be opened on a Windows computer. JPG is a more common file type. I can't open your photos on Windows 10. Can't open these in Windows 10

Oi Vey! Leave it alone and have a professional come over, or bring the head to a sewing machine mechanic.

New machines are heavily oiled before being shipped. When your importer got it out of the crate it may have also been covered in grease. They may have left the oil there for the reseller to deal with. Get some cheap wash cloths (18 in a pack) from Walmart and wipe it down. Oil it after heavy use, or weekly, and keep those Wally World rags handy. Leave a rag under the feet when you are done sewing for the day. Also, you have to open the faceplate and place drops of oil into the tiny holes in all of the bell cranks and moving parts. I buy precision oilers to do this. The oil will leak out the bottom until it settles in and you learn how much to give it. Failure to oil a new machine, especially the moving parts in the business end of the head, can lead to a seizure.

A few decades ago I was sewing safety vests that were edge bound. I tried using off the shelf binders to no avail. The dealer finally gave me a number to call and I had a binder custom built for the machine and the binding I wanted to use. Once I got that binder I never had a binding problem whether on inside/outside curves, turns, or straightaways. You may need to explore a custom binder and foot set to go with it.

OEM parts are always more expensive than aftermarket parts from Wuhan. They are warranted against defects and more likely to be a perfect fit for your machine. Sometimes they are not stocked by your dealer and have to be special ordered. Since you are not using the machine now, why not remove the hook and examine the tip and ramp for burrs from needle strikes. The point should be well defined and sharp. The ramp portion that carries the thread around the bobbin basket should be smooth. If these things are true there is no need to replace the hook. When you reinstall the hook (current or replacement), set the opener arm so it stops before pulling the tab all the way back. It needs a bit of clearance. And, make sure that when the hook picks off the thread loop, it carries it smoothly around the bobbin basket. There shouldn't be any hangs in this motion. If the thread makes a snapping sound, move the check spring disk to the right in its slot to give more slack thread. Do this until the snapping stops. You may also need to reduce the thread tensions to accomplish this. The machine will be happier, like the Canadiens fans were last night.

I run a Consew 206rb-18, which is the same thing but longer. I time this machine so that when the needle has risen about 3/32" the very tip of the hook meets the center of the needle 1/16" above the top of the eye. If I encounter skipped stitches after that I move the hook saddle closer to the needle and bend the deflector if necessary so the hook comes as close as possible but doesn't actually hit the needle. Did you know that a left to right threaded needle tends to get pulled to the left as you sew? The amount of pull varies with the diameter of the body and how tight the top and bottom threads are tensioned. A number 16 or 18 needle will be pulled more to the left than a number 20 or 21. This explains why a perfectly timed machine might still skip stitches. Other factors come into play, but needle pull can't be ignored. Obviously, if you reduce the thread tensions to the minimum that still gives a good stitch, the deflection will be minimized. Lastly, observe the check spring as you hand wheel the machine. It should rest all the way down against the bottom stop bracket (adjustable) then pull up smoothly as the take-up lever moves up. As the take-up becomes let down, the spring should keep the top thread taut until the needle has fully pierced the material, then it should stop against the stop bracket. The spring tension should be strong enough to bring the spring down to its resting position, but not much more than that.

You will need to change to a different type of servo. I had a few like yours and swapped them out for a Family Sew FS-550s. These motors can sew under 1 stitch per second with a speed reducer, or possibly 2 per second direct, depending on the size of the hand wheel pulley.

I can't tell how it needs to be sewn from the photo you posted. Can you please post another view of the shoe showing where the sewing has to be performed? Shoot at the lowest "resolution" and use a photo editor to reduce the file size if necessary. If you have a wide enough lip around the bottom of the shoe it can be edge stitched then trimmed. The width of that lip and its thickness will help with the machine choices.

I can tell you that this model is a light duty straight stitch machine with a fixed presser foot and bottom feed. It uses G size bobbins which are also used in the Singer 111 series machines. I have a walking foot version called the model 168. I use #69 or #92 thread in it. It is a great machine for sewing hats, ball caps, bags, etc. Basically, it sews around the tall, narrow post. If it can fit over the post you can sew it.

LOL (I know that). Sorry, I couldn't resist!

I moved this question to the How Do I Do That section where you will get more answers. The Help Wanted section requires every post and reply to await approval from a moderator before they become visible. Further, Help Wanted is actually for people looking for help making things, as in subcontracted work.

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