Wizcrafts

OEM parts are always more expensive than aftermarket parts from Wuhan. They are warranted against defects and more likely to be a perfect fit for your machine. Sometimes they are not stocked by your dealer and have to be special ordered. Since you are not using the machine now, why not remove the hook and examine the tip and ramp for burrs from needle strikes. The point should be well defined and sharp. The ramp portion that carries the thread around the bobbin basket should be smooth. If these things are true there is no need to replace the hook. When you reinstall the hook (current or replacement), set the opener arm so it stops before pulling the tab all the way back. It needs a bit of clearance. And, make sure that when the hook picks off the thread loop, it carries it smoothly around the bobbin basket. There shouldn't be any hangs in this motion. If the thread makes a snapping sound, move the check spring disk to the right in its slot to give more slack thread. Do this until the snapping stops. You may also need to reduce the thread tensions to accomplish this. The machine will be happier, like the Canadiens fans were last night.

I run a Consew 206rb-18, which is the same thing but longer. I time this machine so that when the needle has risen about 3/32" the very tip of the hook meets the center of the needle 1/16" above the top of the eye. If I encounter skipped stitches after that I move the hook saddle closer to the needle and bend the deflector if necessary so the hook comes as close as possible but doesn't actually hit the needle. Did you know that a left to right threaded needle tends to get pulled to the left as you sew? The amount of pull varies with the diameter of the body and how tight the top and bottom threads are tensioned. A number 16 or 18 needle will be pulled more to the left than a number 20 or 21. This explains why a perfectly timed machine might still skip stitches. Other factors come into play, but needle pull can't be ignored. Obviously, if you reduce the thread tensions to the minimum that still gives a good stitch, the deflection will be minimized. Lastly, observe the check spring as you hand wheel the machine. It should rest all the way down against the bottom stop bracket (adjustable) then pull up smoothly as the take-up lever moves up. As the take-up becomes let down, the spring should keep the top thread taut until the needle has fully pierced the material, then it should stop against the stop bracket. The spring tension should be strong enough to bring the spring down to its resting position, but not much more than that.

You will need to change to a different type of servo. I had a few like yours and swapped them out for a Family Sew FS-550s. These motors can sew under 1 stitch per second with a speed reducer, or possibly 2 per second direct, depending on the size of the hand wheel pulley.

I can't tell how it needs to be sewn from the photo you posted. Can you please post another view of the shoe showing where the sewing has to be performed? Shoot at the lowest "resolution" and use a photo editor to reduce the file size if necessary. If you have a wide enough lip around the bottom of the shoe it can be edge stitched then trimmed. The width of that lip and its thickness will help with the machine choices.

I can tell you that this model is a light duty straight stitch machine with a fixed presser foot and bottom feed. It uses G size bobbins which are also used in the Singer 111 series machines. I have a walking foot version called the model 168. I use #69 or #92 thread in it. It is a great machine for sewing hats, ball caps, bags, etc. Basically, it sews around the tall, narrow post. If it can fit over the post you can sew it.

LOL (I know that). Sorry, I couldn't resist!

I moved this question to the How Do I Do That section where you will get more answers. The Help Wanted section requires every post and reply to await approval from a moderator before they become visible. Further, Help Wanted is actually for people looking for help making things, as in subcontracted work.

Oh???

No. I am saying that 3/8 inch is the maximum thickness they can sew. That is not supposed to be the constant thickness, just the occasional seam. If a project is 3/8 inch solid, it needs a different machine that can handle thick thread and has longer needles and stronger tension disks and a beefier take-up lever. It requires either a sole stitcher or a harness stitcher.

To sew 1cm you will need a different kind of sewing machine than a standard upholstery class walking foot. It will have to sew thicker than those machines are built to sew. Most upholstery class machines max out at 3/8 inch, with is 10mm There are a few options you have to sew this thickness. But, first you have to decide on the geometry of the arm. How will you be sewing the parts together: from the outside edge or inside the slipper? It would really help if you post some photos of the slippers or shoes you want to make. Otherwise, we are just going to guess wildly about the type of machine you will need.

I have a type of servo motor that is "analog" and has replaceable brushes, a replaceable cork brake and a speed control knob that rotates (rotary switch) to limit the speed. It is very common and sold under different brand names in various countries and geo-locations. The motor itself is extremely quiet in operation and totally silent until it is activated. A kitchen appliance is much noisier than this servo motor. Here is the servo motor I use. I'm confident you can find a similar make in your country, or import one.

Awesome find!

All posts about sewing machines for sale must go in the Marketplace section of LWN. I am moving it now.

If the needle is the correct length and the hook passes above the eye as the needle ascends, the needle may be in backwards. Make sure the scarf faces the hook.

Once you finalize the 3D coordinates and create a functional part, please start a topic about it in our 3d printers and lasers sub-forum. You can even upload a file for others to use.

Did you also order their double sided leather tape? They stock it in 4 widths, all in 60 yard lengths.

Yes to both parts of your question. The Adler can sew heavier leather, but that doesn't appear to be an issue in this project. Your real decisions are: Do I need a large bobbin or will a small bobbin machine do? Do I want a new or a used machine? If used, do I want to spend the money for a German made machine and its not so cheap replacement parts? If no to #3, am I prepared to repair/rebuild a possibly worn out Singer 29 series patcher? Do I want a manually treadled machine or one mounted on a power stand? If you prefer to buy a new patcher, it won't be an Adler or Singer. It will be a Chinese clone of a Singer 29. Make sure you buy from a dealer who will service it and has parts if something goes bad and who will talk you through the growing pains. If you go the used route, know that sometimes the foot driving cam is so worn down it may not sew longer than 9 or 10 stitches per inch. New, a Singer 29 should sew up to 5 to the inch, into about 6 or 7 ounces of shoe leather. If you find a really tight patcher that you can afford, buy it and run with it as l;ong as you can. When it wears out and loses stitch length and quality, rebuild it, or sell it and buy a newer old one (or a brand new clone). I use my Adler for most patch projects. Occasionally, I use the Singer where the small nose profile is required. I wouldn't be without it in my line of work. Your use is defined though. You can use a large bobbin machine if you can find one you can afford. We have a member on LWN who rebuilds Adler patchers: @shoepatcher

I too sew on patches for a living. In my shop I have flat bed, post bed and cylinder arm machines. I use the flatbed for sewing through the fronts and backs. I use the post machine to sew over a back liner that zips open on the bottom. I use boot patchers to sew over pockets. Since you are looking into another machine, I recommend a long arm, big bobbin patcher. You can find used ones made by Singer (29 series) and Adler (30 series). I have a short arm, small bobbin Singer 29k71 treadle machine and a long arm, big bobbin Adler 30-7 on a power stand. The Adler does most of the work. The Singer has a tiny bobbin and the short arm has its limitations.

I have that same Adler 30-7, except mine is gray. It is a long arm large bobbin model with extra long needles (332LLG) allowing it to sew up to 3/8 inch. The needles are uncommon and tend to be expensive. Adler USA does sell them in boxes of 100 if you can't find a dealer who has any in stock. Assuming you can find them, the needles are/were made in sizes 18/110 through 24/180. As for the thread sizes, I keep mine threaded with #92 bonded nylon. On rare occasions I load a bobbin with #138 and use the same size on the top. A full bobbin of #138 can sew about 5 suede lined rifle slings (bodies and tails). I used to pre-wind a bunch of bobbins when I had to sew a run of straps on an Adler 30-70, back in 2009 through 2012. As for sewing patches, you can actually get by using #69 bonded nylon with a #18/110 needle. I keep #92 thread in my Adler patcher because I repair things too. I would not recommend using #138 thread to sew patches because you may destroy the embroidered edges. Even a #19 needle separates some soft woven edges. A #18 needle does less visual damage to the patches. That's why I recommend #69 thread. Also, you might be able to find a box of prewound black bobbins in #69 bonded nylon. FYI: I also have a Singer 29k71 patcher that I only use with #69 thread and a #18 needle. Thus there isn't much reason for me to run that thread in the Adler.

Generally speaking, thread knots on the bottom means excessive bobbin tension, inadequate top tension, a needle that is too small, or the top thread is not fully seated in the top tension disks, or the disks are not fully closing as you sew. Pick one and run with it.

I second this. I also have a Techsew, a 2700, that came with a table attachment. And, my Cowboy CB4500 came with a table attachment. I have flatbed machines that are better suited to sewing flat items and never use the table attachments. But, I am in the sewing business where time is money and customers often watch and wait while I sew their stuff. If one has plenty of time and is not in a hurry, and doesn't have customers watching and waiting, a table attachment would be a convenience as opposed to buying two machines.

If you look at walking foot machines, be aware that the triple (compound) feed machines have an oblong hole or slot in the center of the feed dog. This allows for the moving needle to flex under load without hitting metal. The larger the hole, the more likely soft material will get pushed into it. Even if the hole in the feeder isn't a problem, the large rectangular cutout in the throat plate can trap soft material. To avoid these issues, look at dual feed walking foot machines that have top and bottom feed with a static position needle. The bottom feed is via dual row feed dogs and the top is via teeth on the presser foot. These machines usually have optional throat plates with larger or smaller needle holes. If you only plan to sew with thread up to #92, the largest needle will be a #19 or #20. The hole in the needle plate can be about 1.5 to 1.75 mm diameter and still clear a threaded #20 needle. In contrast, the hole in a heavy duty triple feed machine could be as much as 2.5mm wide and 4mm long. Seeing as how you aren't sewing leather, the teeth on the feet won't be a negative option. There are plenty of dual feed walking foot machines to be found. The alternating feet will walk up and down over different levels at overlapping seams.

You might get better results if you can use the flat slotted plate, or even the standard feed dog and flat plate. If the above is not an option, you may need to tweak the timing of the hook. Or, try increasing the throw of the check spring by moving the bottom stop bracket so the spring goes farther down before bottoming out.

Bingo!

None. Each needle "system" is an agreed upon combination of numbers and letters that needle manufacturers stick to when they make needles for various sewing machines. So, a System 135x anything needle might be several different lengths. 135x5, 135x7, 135x9, 135x16 are all different needle geometries. The walking foot machines you are looking at use system 135x16 (leather point), 135x17 (round cloth point), or if specially modified, system 190 (Pfaff) needles. System 135x16 are about 1.75" long. System 190 are about 3/16" longer. The Juki LU-1508NH is modified to allow for the longer needle to cycle up and down without hitting the feet at the maximum rated height, while still being in time with the hook. This needle would hit the raised feet in a different machine that is not expecting the longer needles. This is never a good thing. If one chooses to use a needle that is not meant for a specific machine, assuming the shank fits into the needle clamping black, the hook must be retimed to intersect above the needle's eye as it moves up from BDC. People do this on old antique sewing machines that were meant to use needle systems that are no longer produced. They often move the needle bar down so they can use a common needle system, line 135x16 or 135x17. This then requires checking and possibly adjusting the timing of the hook. While there is little information to be gleaned from the needle system designation, the "size" is a known commodity. As was mentioned by a previous respondent, the metric sizes actually correspond to measured diameters. Thus, a number 18 needle which has the second size of 110 on the label has a diameter of 1.10mm. Unfortunately, the old Singer numbering system only corresponds to the relative diameters. Those numbers are standardized, so all #18 needles *should* be equal in diameter to any other manufacturer's #18 needle. Obviously, the metric sizes will match across manufactures as well. You can get more fetching up about the relationship between thread and needles by reading the needle and thread chart on this page.