Wizcrafts

I also use walking foot edge guide feet that have a spring loaded guide on the right side of the back foot. They come in spacings from 1/8 through 5/16 inch from the needle.

I have both of these edge guides I bought on ebay. Large magnetic edge guide Over the side, swing away edge guide.

I run a Family Sew servo motor on several sewing machines. Some are direct drive and some go through reducers. It is definitely easier to feather in a direct connection than a reducer setup. I can also adjust the free motion a little, but not as much as with a clutch motor. I actually sanded down one of my brake pads to get more range of motion. Since the size of the machine pulley varies, you don't always get a great speed reduction ratio from the motor. The worst ratios are on my Singer 211g156 and a Techsew 2700. They have smallish pulleys on the balance wheel and really need a reducer to get controllable slow speeds. These machines were expected to run at higher speeds.

Please let us know how this works out regarding a custom binder for a 441 clone.

I use FastStone Photo Resizer. It is easy to use. By lowering the "quality" 15 or 20 percent you get a smaller image file size with very little reduction in clarity. It also has a sharpen function that makes reduced, or even slightly out of focus images sharper. If you also crop out unnecessary portions you can save more bits and bytes. Finally, resizing an image down makes it smaller. I often cut the original file size in half, or close to it, using combinations of functions.

Here is a very readable copy of the Singer 211G155/156 service manual Singer_211G155,_211G156_Service_Manual.pdf

That is the round, or barrel shaped adjuster I was referring to. I forgot that it has a scale with a pointer on the end for thin, medium or thick work. I was last sewing on my Singer 29K71 patcher that only has a round screw on the end of the slack adjuster. It resembles a long, round barrel. Hence, I think of it as a barrel adjuster. :-) In any case, the more this adjuster is brought into play, the more loose or slack top thread is fed to the needle after the take-up reaches the top and moves down. With no slack, the top thread may fight against the action of the presser foot, causing slightly shortened stitches. However, the stitches will lie very tight against the leather. A moderate amount of slack in the top thread will let the foot move a little more freely. You will get longer stitches that the minimum setting because the thread won't fight so hard against the motion of the foot. In the maximum position there is so much loose thread that it will flop around as you sew. You will get your longest stitches in thick work. But, the thread could get caught by the tip of the needle or it could wrap around a leg of the presser foot and jam things up. However, if you are careful, this setting will give a reasonable stitch appearance while allowing the foot to pull the work a little more than might otherwise be the case. As anybody who uses a patcher machine has learned, the maximum stitch length is greatly reduced as you exceed 1/4 inch, or 6mm thickness. Another thing one can do to get the longest possible stitch length in any thickness is to reduce the top and bottom thread tensions so they aren't fighting against the foot motion. This is especially helpful if the feed motion cam is badly worn.

I have a 30-7 and it gets 5 to the inch as well. If you ever find that it struggles to get a particular stitch length, increase the amount of slack thread using the barrel adjuster on top. More slack thread on top makes it easier to pull the work back with the foot. Of course, the bobbin tension should be minimized so it isn't fighting the feed.

French: La Singer 153b1 est une machine à repriser. Il n'a aucun mécanisme d'alimentation. Il ne sert à rien pour coudre du cuir, sauf pour reprendre des déchirures. English: The Singer 153b1 is a darning machine. It does not have any feed mechanism. It is no use for sewing leather, other than for darning rips.

Yes. On most walking foot machines that have a round check spring assembly, rotating it clockwise gives more slack. I sometimes move mine to suit the job I'm doing, so I leave the little set screw slightly loose, loosen the knurled nut, rotate the disks, then tighten down the nut. You can fine tune the travel via the rotating bottom stopped bracket. The travel should always keep the thread taut until the needle enters the material. Then there is a bit of wiggle room for exactly how many degrees of take-up lever motion the spring moves down until it bottoms out. Playing with that adjustment can yield some interesting results. I find that the sooner it stops moving, the more slack thread you get. This can be a blessing or a curse, depending on the harness or softness of the material the needle is penetrating. Sometimes, holding the thread under spring tension a little longer makes for better stitches. Other times it can dissolve the loop before pickoff time.

Singer twin needle, roller foot post bed sewing machine. Possible model 52w22. It can definitely handle #69 thread, probably #92 and possibly #138. You can remove one needle to sew a single stitch line.

You have to wait for the take-up lever to go all the way up and just start to move down before lifting the foot and pulling the work back..Also, change the check spring setting to give more slack thread.

I don't know of any roller foot that mounts onto a walking foot machine's presser bar. They usually bolt onto a straight stitch machine that only has one foot. You might have to replace the presser bar to do this. Then, the inside foot would have to go. This would leave you with the problem of the inline feed dog making contact on only its left side. Then you'd have an issue when the feed dog drops to move forward. The roller would push the work down into the big slot in the throat plate. I would be simpler to buy a straight stitch machine that meets your requirements, then buy a roller foot/feed dog/throat plate conversion kit. Th throat plate has a narrow slot that the roller doesn't drop into. The feed dog is also narrow, but with aggressive teeth.

Industrial sewing machines use type 3L v-belts and pulleys. If there is a clutch motor under the table and it has a belt, measure the belt and the diameter of the motor pulley. Note that the servo motors sold by our advertising dealers is usually 45 or 50mm (~2 inches). If the original pulley is 4 inches and the new motor has a 2 incher, subtract 2 inches from the belt length. Typically, clutch motors I've had come with a 3.5 or 4 inch pulley and a 42 or 44 inch belt. After converting to a Family Sew servo, with a 2" pulley, I usually end up using a 2 inch shorter belt. This is withing the range of adjustment on the motor.

This is from the Outlaw product page on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website: The Outlaw uses bonded nylon or polyester thread sizes from #69 through #346 thread

I use #69 thread with a #18 needle for thicknesses up to about 4 or 5 ounces. for 6 to 8 ounces I use #92 with a #19 needle. Beyond that I move up to #138 or #207 thread with the appropriate needles.

The puckers on the bottom are typical of a compound feed walking foot machine. It is caused by the pressure on the inside foot pressing down right over the feed dog. See about getting some Schmetz S point needles that slice inline with the stitch line. The only other way to minimize this is to reduce the top and bottom thread tensions to the bare minimum that forms a decent stitch, then back off the foot pressure to the minimum required to hold down the leather on the upstroke. If your particular machine has a coil spring on the inside foot and also has an adjuster on top, back it off as far as necessary to reduce the puckering. If the leather lifts with the ascending needle, increase the outer foot pressure. As a rule, the smaller the needle and thread, the less prominent the puckering on the bottom, and vice versa.

Some of them I see advertised use a household System HAx1 needle. That would really limit the thickness you could sew.

I use a Cowboy CB4500 for thick or hard leather, as well as heavy webbing tow straps. I only use this machine for items needing #138 and larger thread. I do occasionally use my 100 year old Singer 42-5 flat bed for hemming heavy chaps and some upholstery because it can run heavy thread if need be. All other sewing with thinner thread is done on my various standard duty machines.

You should be able to balance the stitches using a #19 or 20 leather point needle. Try reducing the bobbin and increasing the top tensioners.

I use a #19 or #20 needle with #92 thread, top and bottom. The #19 gives a tighter lay in soft to medium temper materials. The #20 lets me sew through double-sided tape without gumming up the eye of the needle. I recommend titanium coated needles to help sew difficult and dry materials. If you are having trouble pulling the knots up from the bottom and are using the correct needle size, increase the top tension, and/or decrease the bobbin tension. If that doesn't do it, buy a magnetic lube jar and a quart of liquid silicon and run your top thread through it. The jar I bought comes with a plastic regulator screw that can be set to just get the thread moist as it feeds through the base. It makes it easier to pull up the knots and can breathe some life back into old, dry thread. If adjusting the top or bottom tension doesn't allow the knots to come up inside the leather, pull off the right sliding cover and watch the top thread as it goes around the shuttle. Does it hang up on the way in or out? Is there a click as the thread lets goes of the bobbin race and comes up? If so, there are further adjustments needed.

I joined then left that FB forum. Half the posts are for old iron domestic sewing machines they think are industrial.

No. It was Ken B whose post I hid, then the follow-up comment from FellowLeathersmith.

Personal attacks against either members or dealers is not permitted here. Please act appropriately.

When I have this problem I draw out several inches of top thread, rotate the hand wheel until the take-up lever is at its highest position, lower the foot while trapping the thread, then sew. Doing this eliminates the pull on the top and doesn't jam the bobbin case. Just make sure the loose top thread is captured by the presser foot or there will be a thread jam. Note: This may or may not work on your machine.