Wizcrafts

Good question! I think someone mislabeled the package. I do see slightly different types of "round" point needles in different systems. They are all basically round or sharp from round points. I've never seen a tri or diamond point in 135x17; just 135x16. Who woulda thunk it?

Your best bet might be to try to sell the feedless machine as a darning machine to somebody who can use it to darn things. It might also be of use to an embroidery shop for freehand embroidery with thick thread.

Excellent video explanation showing what was causing the top thread to get drawn down under the work. We learn to hold back the threads at the beginning, or else! This video actually shows the slack top thread above the last thread guide and it is that slack thread that gets pulled under.

If you are referring to a Chinese street cobbler's shoe patching machine, there was a lengthy discussion in January, 2020, about these pieces of stuff.

@Bow I got my Cowboy CB4500 in early 2011. I couldn't be happier. I got all available accessories both at the time of purchase and afterwards. I use it for thick and tough work that my lighter duty machines can't handle as nicely, or at all. The thickest job I sewed on it was a 7/8 inch thick holster using #346 thread. The thinnest is about 9-10 ounces, with #138 thread. I can also hem denim jeans and overalls on it by dumbing it down (see below). I have a best friend who bought a Cobra Class 4 about a half year earlier. He uses it on every sewing job he has. Mind you, he usually uses #138 or #207 thread and makes sure the leather and suede are thick enough to bury the lockstitch knots (10-12 oz). These machines are based on the frame and inner workings of the venerable Juki TSC-441 (still in production since about 1989). Thus, they have come to be known as "441 clones." While 441 clones (and the actual TSC-441) work best with thick thread, big needles and thick stacks of material, I have learned that they can be "dumbed down" for lighter/thinner work and thinner thread. To wit, I even wrote a blog article about this called: "Dumbing down a Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, or similar harness stitcher." While this process takes a bit of time, it can be useful for people who only own one of these machines and need to sew lighter work in the here and now. I have found that once business picks up for a sewer, other machines become more affordable if you know where to look for them.

You can buy the same threading wire as is used in Singer patchers. They have a finger loop on top of a thin rod that has a split cut into the bottom. The split holds the thread as you push it through, past he paddle spring, to the needle.

I just texted with Bob and he told me that the same package deal applies to the cb3500 and 4500. So, add $400 to the machine price for the accessories. The list of included parts is in a pop-up on the cb4500 page.

That is wrong. The CB3500 and CB5500 use the same accessories and accessory pack as the CB4500. There is a link to it in the right sidebar, just above the bottom price. It opens a pop-up window that tells you that the accessories fit all three high lift machines. I know the owner Bob Kovar personally, having bought several machines from him and his Son, Bob. I suspect that he can put together a package deal for you if you buy the CB3500. In the event I am wrong, I repent in dust and ashes of love, cold as ice.

I generally sew between 5 to 6 stitches per inch with thread sizes 69 through 138. But, some jobs may tolerate closer stitches while others are better off with longer stitches, like 4 to the inch. A lot of this depends on the size of the thread and needle. The thinner the leather the shorter the stitches should be to prevent loose threads or thread causing flexing of the work. You mentioned 1.5 to 2mm thickness. I strongly recommend against using #138 thread in such thin leather. You may not be able to hide the knots! The most I would use would be #92, if that. Thread sizes vs needle sizes. #69 thread, top and bottom: #18 (110) needle #92 thread, t&b: #19 or #20 (120 or 125) needle #138 thread, t&b: #22, 22.5, or #23 (140, 150 or 160) needle Those sewing much shorter stitches are using thinner thread and needles to match. A custom boot maker sewing purely decorative stitches might do so using #33 bonded thread and a short #9 or #10 needle on a roller foot machine. The next bonded thread size up is #46. This thread can be sewn using a #14 needle. Such a thin thread and needle will allow closer stitches, like 8 to 12 per inch. But, each stitch will be 50% weaker in breaking strength than #69 thread. The biggest concern with short stitches is the risk of filigreeing the leather.

Uwe beat me to the punch. I second the recommendation for the 1508NH. Note that they also offer a sub-class N, which is not the same capacity as the NH. Expect to pay a lot for this model. Adler also has a couple of really high end walking foot machines in the ECO series that are for sale at Weaver Leather. I tried them out a couple years ago and wish I had more money! Check out the Adler 869 ECO from Weaver Leather. Weaver is one of our supporting advertisers.

I have a Singer 31-15 that is now sitting on the floor in my shop. I used to swap it out with a 111w153, but it is now gone, along with the table. My 31-15 is from the early 1920s and has a fixed, pinned hook. It maxes out with #92 thread using a #19 needle. I have walking foot machines for heavier thread and thicker work.

I owned a Juki LU-563 for several years and never could get it to sew with #207 thread. It absolutely maxed out with #138 and fought me most of the time with that thread and the #23 needle required to clear that thread on top and bottom. I considered myself lucky to get my money back when I sold it.

I haven't had any bad experiences with them either. But, I don't interact as often nowadays.

If you don't mind, please post a link to that binder attachment.

The bent wires are a guide to maintain alignment and a smooth entry into the folder body. The way the spool is mounted determines the back pressure. You want the least drag on the spool as possible. I once had a custom platter for edge binding spools that road on ball bearings and extended horizontally over the back of the table.

You have no idea how much I needed this to make me laugh again. Thanks guys.

JavaScript is a plain text programming language for websites that are interpreted by your web browser when you load a web page. They permit things to change on demand, like text size, or to open and close drop down navigation menus, or to highlight a particular amount of text, or to tell you how many characters are left in a text input box. There is much more that we do with JavaScript, but those are some common functions. The layout I used is typical of JavaScript "functions."

One way to slow down a motor without losing torque is by placing a speed reducer between the motor and the machine pulley. I have this setup on an Adler patcher with a clutch motor and on several other machines using an electronic servo motor and a speed reducer. Reducers I have come in either 2:1 or 3:1 reduction. Some bolt onto the underside of the table, by the belt slot. Another one is a box that bolts onto the table in place of the motor. The motor gets bolted to the bottom of the reducer box and needs a longer v-belt to power the machine. These reducers and the servo motor I use are pictured here.

I sometimes have the same issue on rotary hook machines, despite holding back the threads. All I can suggest is that you tweak the throw of the check spring. This spring and rotating disks gives more or less slack thread to the needle and hook on the downstroke. Less slack can cause a snapping sound as the thread is pulled around the bobbin case (too little slack). More slack is easier on the take-up system. Note the current positions, then try lengthening or shortening the throw, via the bottom stopper. Then try tweaking the position of the curved slot with the small screw.

Assuming your feed dog is smooth, like mine is, I set it so that the top is either equal to, or just slightly above the top of the throat plate at its highest position. Only if the machine has difficulty feeding the work do I raise the feed dog much higher above the throat plate. This is just my preference.

Call Cobra and leave a message, or send an email, or use their contact form.

That chart was a little outdated and has now been updated to reflect the real needle sizes for #138 and 207 thread in leather. The smaller sizes may work fine in cloth, or soft chap leather, but not hard temper leather, like holsters use. The leather has a lot of resistance to the knots as the take-up lever tries to do its thing. A tight hole from an undersize needle just makes matters worse. System 135x16 are too short for a 42-5. Try System 190, Pfaff needles. They can sometimes be found up to a #25, but you may have to order those from Europe. My 42-5 came with a pack of every needle size from 18 through 25. I have a #24 needle in it with #207 Weaver thread, top and bottom.

That #23 needle is definitely too small for #207 thread on top and bottom! I use a #24 needle for that combination. Just set a modicum of tension on the bobbin spring with #207 and larger thread. Otherwise, the top tension will be waaaaay too tight, as you have learned. Keep in mind that there is no tension release when you lift the feet on this model.

@Auden Consider the strength of various sizes of thread when searching for a suitable machine. For instance, any sewing machine I have had, from plastic body domestics through the heaviest iron body industrials can sew with #69 (aka: T70) bonded thread, using a #18 (aka: 110) needle (round point for cloth/vinyl; leather point for leather). The thickness each machine can sew together varies from machine to machine. Light duty machines will max out with #69 thread while harness stitchers are not gentle enough to handle it with grace. Number 69 thread is fine for non load bearing, thin seams (2 through 4 oz), as it has about 11 pounds breaking strength. But, as you add tab and strap layers on top of base layers, you can easily get over 8 - 12 ounces. This thickness is better sewn with 22 pound test #138 thread. When you sew between 12 and 16 ounces, the stresses could be too much for #138 thread. This is when one might want to move up to #207 (aka: 210), on top and bottom (32 pounds test). Why? because if you have 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin, the stitches are only as strong as the smaller thread (22 pounds). Number 207 thread on top and bottom calls for a #24 (180) needle. Once you exceed 16 ounces the stresses may exceed the ability of #207 thread to hold the seams together. This calls for #277 or larger thread and a harness/holster stitcher (example). So, as you are looking for your best starter machine, consider not only the thickness range to be sewn, but also the strength of thread needed to hold the various thicknesses together against pulls, tugs, heavy loads, or getting caught on a door handle. If you think you can get by using thread sizes 69, 92 and 138, any modern industrial sewing machine that has enough rated operating clearance for your thickest seams should handle it. If you want to sew with #207 thread, for stitch strength purposes, look for a heavy duty machine that is built with that size thread in mind. It will have tougher take-up and tension components than a medium duty machine built for an upper limit of #138 thread. Your choices are more limited for a cylinder arm machine that handles up to 5/16 inch of material, using #207 thread on top and bottom, running a #24 needle. Once you hit 3/8 inch, it is best to have a machine that can handle #277 thread, top and bottom, using a #25 needle. Here is a thread and needle chart that shows the specs of different sizes of industrial thread and the needles best matched to those threads.

I hope he figured that out 2 1/3 years ago when this topic was last active. ;-)