Wizcrafts

Your assumption is correct. If you leave a thread sock on while sewing, adjust the top tension to compensate for any additional drag on the thread.

Sewing machines do not form saddle stitches. They are either lockstitch - with overlapping knots that need to be buried inside the material, or chainstitch - with a looper forming a thread chain on the bottom. The latter is only useful if you can't see the bottom of the work and heavy duty chainstitch machines are not easy to find. Briefcases were sewn with Puritan chainstitch machines back in the day. Everything else is done on lockstitch machines. The type of sewing machine you need to sew leather depends on a number of factors. It could be a flat bed, post bed, or cylinder arm. It all depends on how the work needs to be stitched. Belts, straps and flat items are best sewn on a flat bed. Hats and bags are better sewn on a post bed machine. Sleeves, cylindrical items and things the hang down on the bottom are best sewn on a cylinder arm machine. Many cylinder arm machines have accessory table attachments for sewing flat work. The things you describe don't require a super heavy duty machine. Show us some pictures of the things you are making and we may be able to recommend specific machines.

The belt may be bad. Try another belt.

Oooooooo!

Do NOT run this machine a high speed without oil in it. It could seize. You may run it very slowly by feathering the clutch.

That's where I buy my motors and reducers.

LOL Order from CowboyBob. He is an industrial sewing machine dealer. His phone number is in his signature under his name.

I am currently using Barge all purpose, clear, TF, quick dry cement in a 32 ounce can with a brush. It is available in larger containers too. But, it costs less to try a quart!

Try Masters quick drying cement and/or Barge super speed toluene free contact cement.

JRM Clips makes them as the 3000 series, in New Jersey. I recommend calling them rather than submitting the contact form.

I bought my inline feet from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Their number is: 866-362-7397.

That is a Union Lockstitch Machine, from 1910. They built them that way so they could handle the heavy stacks of leather used in the harness trade. It easily sewed 3/4 inch with extremely thick thread (#415 bonded nylon or 7 cord glazed linen). The stack in the photo is only 24 ounces. Not much of a challenge for a ULS.

Use a larger needle, like a #140/22

450 pounds

John; I am moving your post to the section called "How Do I Do That?" You will get better answers there. Also, this particular section is bad for discussions because all posts must await a moderator's approval before they become visible.

You don't know about heavy sewing machines until you have to move and setup a Union Lockstitch Machine.

I buy my zippers, zipper parts, seam rippers, oil, silicon lube, double sided leather tape, knit cuffs, small spools of #69 bonded nylon thread, repair tags and other sewing accessories from Wawak. They are the go to source for tailoring supplies in the needle trade. They also sell handheld Ace Clippers and staples. These are still made the same way as the pair of Ace Clippers I got when my Father closed his tailor shop in the 1980s. I use them every day to staple patches in place and to staple repair tags onto garments. Those clippers have to be from the 1960s and they are still like new!

Absolutely! There is a lever with a large thumbscrew that rides in a long vertical slot on the upper front right side of the body. Move the lever up to shorten the stitches and vice versa. Tighten the screw to hold the stitch length.

Jared; Did you know about the box style speed reducers that go where the motor was, then the motor bolts to the bottom of the box? It is sold by one or more of our supporting dealers. I have two box reducers in use in my shop. I installed them myself in 20 minutes. The dealer should be able to help you choose the length of the new long belt. You can do it yourself and save money over having a dealer install one.

There is a link to a downloadable manual for the Rex 26-188 machines on this page from 2014.

This is what a 441 clone looks like.

Usually/often/most times/sometimes - when a needle "system" comes in a -3 and a -4, the -3 is a round point and the -4 is some type of leather point. The round point is for cloth and synthetics. The other points are for leather. Sometimes I use -4 triangle points when I sew combinations of cloth and leather, like knit cuffs onto leather sleeves with a polyester lining. The tensions seem to balance better than with a same size round point -3 needle. The tri point doesn't fray the lining like a slicing point would.

I still have a digital servo motor I replaced with an analog motor. The digital motor was fitted with a 45 or 50mm pulley. It was just too jumpy when I feathered the pedal. I find that analog motors are much smoother to feather at slow speeds.

For the time being, I would back off the position of the case opener until the hook turns freely. There could be some thread or other debris caught in the gears that drive the hook. Or, the opener might be pulling back too far. It only needs to make a slight movement on the bobbin case so that the top thread clears the tab.

The picture of the motor shows what appears to be a rather large pulley. If you can obtain a much smaller pulley it will automatically slow down the motor's speed.