Wizcrafts

Oops! Sorry 'bout that, Chief! You can hopefully get a similar machine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It is called the CB341. They also have a new to them CB1341 (Juki 1341 clone) that may be a step up. Our member, @CowboyBobis the owner.

E = mc2 (just kidding) You should use calipers to measure the OD of the motor shaft. Then order a 45 or 50mm pulley that fits it. If in doubt, contact a dealer who sells Consew servo motors. They may have the smaller pulley in stock. They can also determine the new belt length. I generally find that when changing from a 3" to a 2" pulley, the belt needs to be about 2 inches shorter. How much depends on where the motor is sitting on the height adjustment bolt.

There is such a thing as sh_tty thread. Have you tried using a different spool or batch or thread? As for adjustments, try altering the settings on your check spring mechanism. Since you haven't yet identified the machine in the photo, I can't be more specific. Most check spring assemblies have the following three adjustments. Amount of downward travel. This movable curved bracket is usually set to keep the thread taut until the point of the needle passes into the material. Once the spring stops moving down there will be slack in the thread. Strength of the moving spring. This is based upon the strength of the thread. It must have enough force to go all the way down to the bottom stop bracket, wherever it is set. Position of the screw inside a curved slot which controls the slack in the available top thread on the down stroke. This setting is affected by the distance the spring can travel downwards after lifting on the take-up stroke. Moving the slot one way increases the slack and vice versa.

It looks like your motor pulley is at least 70mm diameter. I would purchase a 50mm pulley and a shorter belt to match. Dealers that sell Consew and Family Sew motors should have these items in stock.

The O.P. is located in Nieppe, North, France and French is their native language. Here is a translation of the question: "I got a Durkopp 18-1. I don't know how to thread the shuttle (bobbin) and how to position it correctly?"

You can buy a Model 26 from Springfield Leather. They have them in stock.

I've never heard of a Consew 201RB. That doesn't mean much. But, are you certain about the model number? Did you mean 206RB-(number)?

I have tried and tried, but the thickest thread my 1920s 31-15 can handle is #69, using a #18 needle. My hook is pinned to the shaft and can't even be timed to the needle, aside from bending the shuttle driver tabs, or moving the needle bar. Considering what I bought it to sew (trouser cuffs and wallet interiors), that is just fine. I have plenty of other machines that can use #138 thread and up.

Here is the parts manual for a Singer 96k40 through 45 and 96k60. Singer_96K40_-_45,_60.pdf

Lower the presser bar until the foot contacts the needle plate..

There was a discussion about this uncommon model a year ago.

You adjust the slack by turning the big hex head bolt on the pulley end in or out. In reduces the slack and out increases the free motion. My guess is yours is already all the way in.

@drafthorses, are you certain about the model number? I find nothing about a Pfaff model 29. Can you upload a close-up photo of the front of the machine?

This is the vaguest post I've read in a long time. Even the title is totally meaningless.

The hook should be sharp, pointed and polished.

Yep, it looks like my Singer 211G156.

I, and many others on this forum, use this Family Sew servo motor. I also use the both types of speed reducers shown on the same page. I am able to sew at 1.5 to 2 stitches per second without the reducers (depending on the diameter of the balance wheel pulley), or about the speed of grass growing with them.

You have exceeded the specified thread size on an ancient tailoring machine that was meant for thin thread. Mine maxes out with #69 thread and a #18 needle. Others are able to run up to #92 with a #19 or #20 needle. Very few machine hackers are able to run #138 thread in a 31-15. It depends on the type of hook you have and how it is adjusted for clearance.

First, make sure you hold back the starting threads for a few stitches to lock them in place. Next, try different thread. Thread that breaks coming out of the bobbin is suspect. You may have old defective thread. Third, replace the needle with a new one that best matches the size of thread you are using. Consult this needle and thread chart. Hand wheel the machine and watch the formation of the loop as the hook picks it off. This may give you a clue as to what is going wrong. Loosen the bobbin tension spring and feel for burrs. Also inspect the bobbin case thread slot. Remove the feed dog and throat plate and check them for burrs. Make sure that the check spring bottom stop keeps the top thread taut until the needle fully pierces the material, then stops moving down. Note the position of the check spring screw inside the curved slot. Moving it one way or the other will give a little more or less slack in the thread. Make sure you have enough top thread tension to pull the knots up into the middle of the material. Don't use thread that is too large for your machine.

Any walking foot machine can sew wallets and belts up to 16 ounces or so, but only with up to #138 thread. Some can even clear #207 thread on top with #138 in the bobbin. The stress on the take-up mechanism is just too much with #207 thread, top and bottom. You need to up the ante to get a machine strong enough to punch through 16 ounces of veg-tan belt leather with #207, using a #24 needle and still pull the knots up inside the leather. There are a few new machines that claim to handle #207 top and bottom and sew 3/8 inch, but I haven't tried them. Somebody else who has may chime in here. Prospects include the following. Cobra Model 26 Cowboy 6900 Techsew 4800 Adler 867 Juki LU-1508NH

This knowledge is restricted to mighty Wizards! I follow in the footsteps of Merlin The Tailor.

At least the price of gas is at its lowest in years. You should be able to test the machine when you get there.

Not even close! It would take two of the Omegas to make one Singer 42-5. The machine looks like a Consew 206 clone. Triple feed walking foot, with reverse. I would call it a common upholstery class machine.

Use the position of the check spring disks to fine tune the amount of tightness the top thread has as it goes around the hook. One direction might cause the thread to snap as it goes around and the other will be quieter. This also is affected by how far the spring travels downward as well as the strength of the spring itself, which is adjustable. Set the bottom stop so the spring bottoms out just after the needle penetrates the material. This can vary with thickness. Tough materials might need the spring to move down farther than softer materials. The purpose of the stop bracket is to keep the thread taut until it is under the material. Heavy thread needs more spring tension to keep it taut and vice versa. The curved slot position gives or takes away some slack. Incantations may help in setting these three items.

I've never heard of or seen an Omega sewing machine. Other machines can use the same needle system. Additionally, there are different types of walking foot machines. Some are top and bottom feed and others have compound feed. There is a world of difference between those, even though they use the same needles. You really need close up photos of the head showing the left side of the head. This is where the crank shafts come out that power the feet. If you can obtain good sharp pix of that end and post them here, we can tell you what type of walking foot machine it is. Note, this is really important if you plan to sew leather, especially any leather that remembers marks. The dual feed machines have teeth on the feet and very few, if any alternate foot options. The top foot pulls the material in sync with the feed dog. Triple feed machines have all manner of feet available, cheaply, most of which are smooth. Teeth aren't needed because the needle, inside foot and feed dog all move in sync. There are ancient dual feed machines that are bottom driven but have a spring loaded outside foot that follows the material back as it stitches then lifts and springs forward for the next stitch. I have a Singer 42-5 that uses that system. Singer walking foot machines from the 1910s through 1940s used this feed. With the advent of the Singer 111w103, 153 and 155, they switched to the triple feed system that persists to this day. There are even some specialized walking foot machines that have a needle feed and jumping foot. If you will be sewing cloth, webbing and vinyl, any type of feed will do. Note #2: System 135x17 is a round point needle for cloth and woven materials, but not leather. Leather points are called System 135x16 and come in a multitude of point shapes.