Wizcrafts

Since you are in California, I can recommend you look at the Cobra Class 4 harness stitcher, which is based in Ontario, California. Comparable machines include the Cowboy CB4500 (which I have) and the Techsew 5100. These machines are the primary, modern, in-production models being used by members of Leatherworker.net. They are designed for sewing thick, hard leather with large needles and heavy thread. They are not so good at sewing anything under about 6 ounces, or soft, garment leather. However, I have published a blog article detailing how one can dumb down a CB4500, or Cobra Class 4 (etc) to sew with thin thread and needles.

You can buy a paper manual on eBay, or you can download and print out this online manual for the Singer 153w102 and nearby sub-classes.

From your list, all except the CB3200 are great for wallets. The 3200 is more of a holster and double leather belt sewing machines. It uses thread sizes from 138 through 346. While you can use #138 thread to sew the combined wallets together, it is too thick for the interiors unless they are at least 6 to 7 ounces thick. The Singer 111 and Consew 206 are flatbed machines and the 227 and 341 are cylinder arm machines. All have compound feed walking feet and handle up to #138 thread, top and bottom. Wallets are mostly flat, so I sew mine on flatbed machines. Unless it is subclass 156, the Singer 111 has no reverse, which may be a problem for wallet backs.

The Techsew 1460 is an upholstery class machine. It uses thread sizes up to #138, top and bottom. The maximum thickness is listed as 3/8 inch, but that would be in soft to medium temper materials. Hard temper veg-tan leather might be limited to between 1/4 and 5/16 inch. Any holsters sewn on this machine should not be for serious open carry use as #138 thread only has 22 pounds breaking strength. It will be great for belts, pouches, vests, zippers and wallets.

The Adler 105-64 was a heavy duty needle feed stitcher than is heavier duty than the 69.169/269 models. It is able to sew 7/16 inch with up to #346 thread. Any more thickness may not feed or sew properly. The 69/169 have triple feed but are lighter duty and can't sew as thick, nor use thread heavier than about #138. Both are long out of production. I use a Cowboy CB4500 for harness, holster and saddle work. It sews over 3/4 inch and has triple feed.

Try using FastStone Photo Resizer. I use it often to reduce either the quality or actual pixel size to reduce the file size of images. It is also useful for equalizing one side of a group of photos to make a carousal display of images for web pages.

Watch a Cowboy CB4500 sewing along a belt edge with the inline feet. I got them from Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

I use Organ, Gros-Beckert and Schmetz needles. You can get good needles from Techsew and keep everything local. You may even get favorable pricing as a machine buyer.

Those holes are for narrow plug-in pivots. Industrial sewing machine dealers sell them. Contact Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, one of our supporting dealers. They have all kinds of head pivot blocks and other replacement parts for most makes and models.

The Singer 132k6 can handle up to #346 (Tex 350) bonded thread using a #26 needle. You should run #277 in the bobbin though. If you are actually going to sew 1/2 inch, #346 thread will give incredible strength and a super bold appearance. I would space the stitches out to 4 to the inch. Otherwise, use #277 on top and bottom. The 132k6 is actually a buffing wheel sewing machine. Those wheels are a half inch thick. When it comes to sewing leather you may be disappointed in the results. The spring loaded presser foot may just slide along the surface of slick top grain leather which leads to uneven stitches and even filigreeing. I know from previous experience. Your results may differ.

I use #207 thread, top and bottom, with a #24 needle, for that thickness. This is a job for the cb4500.

Is it the bobbin thread or the top thread that is getting tangled? Post a picture of the tangle to help us diagnose the possible cause.

On your machine the cutout scarf over the eye faces due right and the ribbed channel faces due left. The needle must be all the way up in the mount and tight.

I have that model. It is a good light duty walking foot, cylinder arm machine. Mine is mounted on a U shaped table that I stand at. The machine takes a standard Singer G bobbin. I use mine with thread sizes 46 through 138, but mostly #92, using a #19 needle. I did have to lose the stock brushless servo motor and replace it with a rotary knob operated Family Sew FS-550s and a speed reducer. This combination lets me sew well under 1 stitch per second, up to about 10 per second at full speed. Plus, it has pull down reverse on the stitch length lever.

I apologize for recommending that you go there in person. I had no idea they had closed up their in person business. This is good to know.

Are you holding back the starting threads for the first two or three stitches? Failure to hold them back almost always jams the top thread in the shuttle.

Are there teeth on the feet? If so, ask your dealers about smooth bottom or knurled feet.

Your machine is only a dual feed walking foot, with a moving outside foot and stationary inside foot and needle. Your presser foot options may be limited. However, I found a dealer in Australia who sells the Protex brand.

Go to the dealer and ask to try out a few machines, with and without a needle positioner. You have a rare advantage being that close to the dealer. That way you will know which machine and motor combo suit you best.

I have the Techsew 2700, its lighter duty predecessor, and I like it just fine and Yankee Doodle Dandy. Go buy that machine! If in doubt, go try one out. Raphael Sewing has been a major industrial sewing machine dealer in Canada for many decades.

I tend to sew at between 5 and 6 stitches per inch. You won't filigree the leather at that spacing. However, with thinner thread and needles you can sew closer stitches, like 7 or 8 to the inch. A lot of this has to do with the shape of the needle. A slicing point, like the Schmetz S style slices inline and makes the stitches look shorter. It can weaken the seam if too close together. OTOH, a tri or diamond point produces a smaller hole that pokes rather than slices. You get a more topstitch appearance and can sew closer together before weakening the leather. Experiment!

The inner foot need to go all the way up to the stop. This should yield equal lift and pressure on both feet. If your machine has a separate adjuster for a spring on the inside foot, use it to get the right pressure.

Bravo! Now, check for excess movement in the presser foot mechanism. any free motion forward and backward translates into lost stitch length. That requires brazing up or replacing the feed motion cam that rides inside the ring on the bottom of the revolving bushing in the head.

The inside foot bar should have a narrow bottom area that the inside foot slides up onto. The foot should go all the way up until it hits the wide area and be locked in position with the set screw. If the feet were cast properly, the lift of each foot should match as they alternate up and down. Ideally, the inside foot should make contact with the feed dog at the moment the tip of the needle reaches that spot. If things are not matching up and you aren't getting the same amount of alternating lift from these feet, consult the manual for adjusting the motion timing of the inside foot. Or, buy another set of feet and see if they work better. If so, send the first set back.

I would be interested. I've been thinking about getting my own embosser for a while but the prices have held me back.