Wizcrafts

No, you can trust Bob. The system 134 (and DBx1) is equivalent to several other systems. Just make sure that the machine sews properly with those needles. This corresponds to the needle system in the manual.

I spoke to Bob Kovar yesterday about something else and asked him about the CB341 vs the Cobra 26. He said it has the same specs as the Cobra 26 and they are in stock. You could drive there on a good day, with cheap gas, and try it out. Then you'd know if it is any good.

There used to be a dealer named Toronto Industrial Sewing Machines. I lived there for a while and bought many industrial sewing machines, parts and accessories from them. I can't recall ever hearing "we don't have that," or "you can't do that on your motor." Maybe they moved and have a new business name???

Use the needle system shown in your manual. The system defines the upper mounting shank diameter and the length to the eye, and/or the tip. It also can differentiate between round and leather points. Set the needle bar to time those needles. The designation "GB 125" doesn't tell us the needle system, just the business end diameter. A #125 needle is also called Singer size 20. This is used with #92 thread in difficult materials, instead of the usual #19 needle (aka: #120). For instance, I am currently using a #20 needle on a project where I sew with #92 thread through stick-on Velcro that is stuck onto clear 20 gauge vinyl. The sticky goop fouls the eye of the normal size 19 needle causing skipped stitches, while the #20 sails on along.

OMG! It sounds like you live in a Banana Republic. Or, is the dealer out of stock and waiting for a slow boat from China? Did you ask Techsew for a pulley and belt? Those are very common items. The belt is type 3L, which is 3/8 inch across the top. In Metric that is about 10 millimeters. It is the same material as an automobile belt, but narrower. They are heat welded to various lengths. The length is marked on the belt. It may be in Metric (M something), or inches (42, 43, etc). I find I use mostly 40, 41 or 42 inch 3L v-belts on my direct to machine motors. Otherwise, check the yellow pages in Toronto for "industrial sewing machines." Check eBay too.

While the Techsew 5100 is capable of sewing with #69 thread, with a #19 needle, it takes a lot of adjustments to do so efficiently. This machine, like its brothers from Cowboy and Cobra, is really best used with #138 through #415 thread, with #23 through #26 needles. In order to use thin thread to sew thin leather, you'll need to dumb down the machine (article). I wrote the blog post after performing all of the adjustments in it. They work on a Cobra Class 4 and Cowboy CB4500, so they will also work on a Techsew 5100. After dumbing down the machine for thin work, when it is time to sew thick stuff, you'll have to reverse the procedure, to smarten it up. Eventually, if business picks up, you will want to buy one machine for light to medium work and another for thicker work with heavy thread. Please note that there are no leather point needles for these machines below number 23. There are no more #18 needles in the common marketplace either. It appears that now the smallest System 7x3/794 needle is a #19, which is actually for #92 bonded thread.

Oops! Sorry 'bout that, Chief! You can hopefully get a similar machine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It is called the CB341. They also have a new to them CB1341 (Juki 1341 clone) that may be a step up. Our member, @CowboyBobis the owner.

E = mc2 (just kidding) You should use calipers to measure the OD of the motor shaft. Then order a 45 or 50mm pulley that fits it. If in doubt, contact a dealer who sells Consew servo motors. They may have the smaller pulley in stock. They can also determine the new belt length. I generally find that when changing from a 3" to a 2" pulley, the belt needs to be about 2 inches shorter. How much depends on where the motor is sitting on the height adjustment bolt.

There is such a thing as sh_tty thread. Have you tried using a different spool or batch or thread? As for adjustments, try altering the settings on your check spring mechanism. Since you haven't yet identified the machine in the photo, I can't be more specific. Most check spring assemblies have the following three adjustments. Amount of downward travel. This movable curved bracket is usually set to keep the thread taut until the point of the needle passes into the material. Once the spring stops moving down there will be slack in the thread. Strength of the moving spring. This is based upon the strength of the thread. It must have enough force to go all the way down to the bottom stop bracket, wherever it is set. Position of the screw inside a curved slot which controls the slack in the available top thread on the down stroke. This setting is affected by the distance the spring can travel downwards after lifting on the take-up stroke. Moving the slot one way increases the slack and vice versa.

It looks like your motor pulley is at least 70mm diameter. I would purchase a 50mm pulley and a shorter belt to match. Dealers that sell Consew and Family Sew motors should have these items in stock.

The O.P. is located in Nieppe, North, France and French is their native language. Here is a translation of the question: "I got a Durkopp 18-1. I don't know how to thread the shuttle (bobbin) and how to position it correctly?"

You can buy a Model 26 from Springfield Leather. They have them in stock.

I've never heard of a Consew 201RB. That doesn't mean much. But, are you certain about the model number? Did you mean 206RB-(number)?

I have tried and tried, but the thickest thread my 1920s 31-15 can handle is #69, using a #18 needle. My hook is pinned to the shaft and can't even be timed to the needle, aside from bending the shuttle driver tabs, or moving the needle bar. Considering what I bought it to sew (trouser cuffs and wallet interiors), that is just fine. I have plenty of other machines that can use #138 thread and up.

Here is the parts manual for a Singer 96k40 through 45 and 96k60. Singer_96K40_-_45,_60.pdf

Lower the presser bar until the foot contacts the needle plate..

There was a discussion about this uncommon model a year ago.

You adjust the slack by turning the big hex head bolt on the pulley end in or out. In reduces the slack and out increases the free motion. My guess is yours is already all the way in.

@drafthorses, are you certain about the model number? I find nothing about a Pfaff model 29. Can you upload a close-up photo of the front of the machine?

This is the vaguest post I've read in a long time. Even the title is totally meaningless.

The hook should be sharp, pointed and polished.

Yep, it looks like my Singer 211G156.

I, and many others on this forum, use this Family Sew servo motor. I also use the both types of speed reducers shown on the same page. I am able to sew at 1.5 to 2 stitches per second without the reducers (depending on the diameter of the balance wheel pulley), or about the speed of grass growing with them.

You have exceeded the specified thread size on an ancient tailoring machine that was meant for thin thread. Mine maxes out with #69 thread and a #18 needle. Others are able to run up to #92 with a #19 or #20 needle. Very few machine hackers are able to run #138 thread in a 31-15. It depends on the type of hook you have and how it is adjusted for clearance.

First, make sure you hold back the starting threads for a few stitches to lock them in place. Next, try different thread. Thread that breaks coming out of the bobbin is suspect. You may have old defective thread. Third, replace the needle with a new one that best matches the size of thread you are using. Consult this needle and thread chart. Hand wheel the machine and watch the formation of the loop as the hook picks it off. This may give you a clue as to what is going wrong. Loosen the bobbin tension spring and feel for burrs. Also inspect the bobbin case thread slot. Remove the feed dog and throat plate and check them for burrs. Make sure that the check spring bottom stop keeps the top thread taut until the needle fully pierces the material, then stops moving down. Note the position of the check spring screw inside the curved slot. Moving it one way or the other will give a little more or less slack in the thread. Make sure you have enough top thread tension to pull the knots up into the middle of the material. Don't use thread that is too large for your machine.