Wizcrafts

Ach du liebe zeit!

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This is correct. ISO is short for In Search Of. It means the same as WTB (Want To Buy)

Bob Kovar just sent me a photo of a 25mm wide mouth folder attachment for a CB3200. He has it in stock! Contact him at 866-362-7397.

I have an old Singer 168 post machine with compound feed walking feet. It has a top loading hook. I had it adjusted for extra clearance between the hook and needle when I bought it and it will sew with #207 on top and in the bobbin, using a #24 needle! It also sews with #92 thread which is what I usually have in it. Admittedly, I have not tried using #69 thread and a small #18 needle. I have other machines for that, so why risk skipped stitches? While a top loading "G" bobbin machine may be able to sew with #207 thread, that bobbin won't hold as much of that size thread as a newer machine with a larger M or U hook (or a harness stitcher). I only use the post machine with thick thread in situations where no other machine can sew the work at hand. If anyone is curious about the modifications made to my post machine, ask Bob Kovar.

We have a Cowboy dealer in Toledo, Ohio. Have you asked him?

Good question! I think someone mislabeled the package. I do see slightly different types of "round" point needles in different systems. They are all basically round or sharp from round points. I've never seen a tri or diamond point in 135x17; just 135x16. Who woulda thunk it?

Your best bet might be to try to sell the feedless machine as a darning machine to somebody who can use it to darn things. It might also be of use to an embroidery shop for freehand embroidery with thick thread.

Excellent video explanation showing what was causing the top thread to get drawn down under the work. We learn to hold back the threads at the beginning, or else! This video actually shows the slack top thread above the last thread guide and it is that slack thread that gets pulled under.

If you are referring to a Chinese street cobbler's shoe patching machine, there was a lengthy discussion in January, 2020, about these pieces of stuff.

@Bow I got my Cowboy CB4500 in early 2011. I couldn't be happier. I got all available accessories both at the time of purchase and afterwards. I use it for thick and tough work that my lighter duty machines can't handle as nicely, or at all. The thickest job I sewed on it was a 7/8 inch thick holster using #346 thread. The thinnest is about 9-10 ounces, with #138 thread. I can also hem denim jeans and overalls on it by dumbing it down (see below). I have a best friend who bought a Cobra Class 4 about a half year earlier. He uses it on every sewing job he has. Mind you, he usually uses #138 or #207 thread and makes sure the leather and suede are thick enough to bury the lockstitch knots (10-12 oz). These machines are based on the frame and inner workings of the venerable Juki TSC-441 (still in production since about 1989). Thus, they have come to be known as "441 clones." While 441 clones (and the actual TSC-441) work best with thick thread, big needles and thick stacks of material, I have learned that they can be "dumbed down" for lighter/thinner work and thinner thread. To wit, I even wrote a blog article about this called: "Dumbing down a Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, or similar harness stitcher." While this process takes a bit of time, it can be useful for people who only own one of these machines and need to sew lighter work in the here and now. I have found that once business picks up for a sewer, other machines become more affordable if you know where to look for them.

You can buy the same threading wire as is used in Singer patchers. They have a finger loop on top of a thin rod that has a split cut into the bottom. The split holds the thread as you push it through, past he paddle spring, to the needle.

I just texted with Bob and he told me that the same package deal applies to the cb3500 and 4500. So, add $400 to the machine price for the accessories. The list of included parts is in a pop-up on the cb4500 page.

That is wrong. The CB3500 and CB5500 use the same accessories and accessory pack as the CB4500. There is a link to it in the right sidebar, just above the bottom price. It opens a pop-up window that tells you that the accessories fit all three high lift machines. I know the owner Bob Kovar personally, having bought several machines from him and his Son, Bob. I suspect that he can put together a package deal for you if you buy the CB3500. In the event I am wrong, I repent in dust and ashes of love, cold as ice.

I generally sew between 5 to 6 stitches per inch with thread sizes 69 through 138. But, some jobs may tolerate closer stitches while others are better off with longer stitches, like 4 to the inch. A lot of this depends on the size of the thread and needle. The thinner the leather the shorter the stitches should be to prevent loose threads or thread causing flexing of the work. You mentioned 1.5 to 2mm thickness. I strongly recommend against using #138 thread in such thin leather. You may not be able to hide the knots! The most I would use would be #92, if that. Thread sizes vs needle sizes. #69 thread, top and bottom: #18 (110) needle #92 thread, t&b: #19 or #20 (120 or 125) needle #138 thread, t&b: #22, 22.5, or #23 (140, 150 or 160) needle Those sewing much shorter stitches are using thinner thread and needles to match. A custom boot maker sewing purely decorative stitches might do so using #33 bonded thread and a short #9 or #10 needle on a roller foot machine. The next bonded thread size up is #46. This thread can be sewn using a #14 needle. Such a thin thread and needle will allow closer stitches, like 8 to 12 per inch. But, each stitch will be 50% weaker in breaking strength than #69 thread. The biggest concern with short stitches is the risk of filigreeing the leather.

Uwe beat me to the punch. I second the recommendation for the 1508NH. Note that they also offer a sub-class N, which is not the same capacity as the NH. Expect to pay a lot for this model. Adler also has a couple of really high end walking foot machines in the ECO series that are for sale at Weaver Leather. I tried them out a couple years ago and wish I had more money! Check out the Adler 869 ECO from Weaver Leather. Weaver is one of our supporting advertisers.

I have a Singer 31-15 that is now sitting on the floor in my shop. I used to swap it out with a 111w153, but it is now gone, along with the table. My 31-15 is from the early 1920s and has a fixed, pinned hook. It maxes out with #92 thread using a #19 needle. I have walking foot machines for heavier thread and thicker work.

I owned a Juki LU-563 for several years and never could get it to sew with #207 thread. It absolutely maxed out with #138 and fought me most of the time with that thread and the #23 needle required to clear that thread on top and bottom. I considered myself lucky to get my money back when I sold it.

I haven't had any bad experiences with them either. But, I don't interact as often nowadays.

If you don't mind, please post a link to that binder attachment.

The bent wires are a guide to maintain alignment and a smooth entry into the folder body. The way the spool is mounted determines the back pressure. You want the least drag on the spool as possible. I once had a custom platter for edge binding spools that road on ball bearings and extended horizontally over the back of the table.

You have no idea how much I needed this to make me laugh again. Thanks guys.

JavaScript is a plain text programming language for websites that are interpreted by your web browser when you load a web page. They permit things to change on demand, like text size, or to open and close drop down navigation menus, or to highlight a particular amount of text, or to tell you how many characters are left in a text input box. There is much more that we do with JavaScript, but those are some common functions. The layout I used is typical of JavaScript "functions."

One way to slow down a motor without losing torque is by placing a speed reducer between the motor and the machine pulley. I have this setup on an Adler patcher with a clutch motor and on several other machines using an electronic servo motor and a speed reducer. Reducers I have come in either 2:1 or 3:1 reduction. Some bolt onto the underside of the table, by the belt slot. Another one is a box that bolts onto the table in place of the motor. The motor gets bolted to the bottom of the reducer box and needs a longer v-belt to power the machine. These reducers and the servo motor I use are pictured here.

I sometimes have the same issue on rotary hook machines, despite holding back the threads. All I can suggest is that you tweak the throw of the check spring. This spring and rotating disks gives more or less slack thread to the needle and hook on the downstroke. Less slack can cause a snapping sound as the thread is pulled around the bobbin case (too little slack). More slack is easier on the take-up system. Note the current positions, then try lengthening or shortening the throw, via the bottom stopper. Then try tweaking the position of the curved slot with the small screw.