Wizcrafts

Industrial sewing machines use type 3L v-belts and pulleys. If there is a clutch motor under the table and it has a belt, measure the belt and the diameter of the motor pulley. Note that the servo motors sold by our advertising dealers is usually 45 or 50mm (~2 inches). If the original pulley is 4 inches and the new motor has a 2 incher, subtract 2 inches from the belt length. Typically, clutch motors I've had come with a 3.5 or 4 inch pulley and a 42 or 44 inch belt. After converting to a Family Sew servo, with a 2" pulley, I usually end up using a 2 inch shorter belt. This is withing the range of adjustment on the motor.

This is from the Outlaw product page on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website: The Outlaw uses bonded nylon or polyester thread sizes from #69 through #346 thread

I use #69 thread with a #18 needle for thicknesses up to about 4 or 5 ounces. for 6 to 8 ounces I use #92 with a #19 needle. Beyond that I move up to #138 or #207 thread with the appropriate needles.

The puckers on the bottom are typical of a compound feed walking foot machine. It is caused by the pressure on the inside foot pressing down right over the feed dog. See about getting some Schmetz S point needles that slice inline with the stitch line. The only other way to minimize this is to reduce the top and bottom thread tensions to the bare minimum that forms a decent stitch, then back off the foot pressure to the minimum required to hold down the leather on the upstroke. If your particular machine has a coil spring on the inside foot and also has an adjuster on top, back it off as far as necessary to reduce the puckering. If the leather lifts with the ascending needle, increase the outer foot pressure. As a rule, the smaller the needle and thread, the less prominent the puckering on the bottom, and vice versa.

Some of them I see advertised use a household System HAx1 needle. That would really limit the thickness you could sew.

I use a Cowboy CB4500 for thick or hard leather, as well as heavy webbing tow straps. I only use this machine for items needing #138 and larger thread. I do occasionally use my 100 year old Singer 42-5 flat bed for hemming heavy chaps and some upholstery because it can run heavy thread if need be. All other sewing with thinner thread is done on my various standard duty machines.

You should be able to balance the stitches using a #19 or 20 leather point needle. Try reducing the bobbin and increasing the top tensioners.

I use a #19 or #20 needle with #92 thread, top and bottom. The #19 gives a tighter lay in soft to medium temper materials. The #20 lets me sew through double-sided tape without gumming up the eye of the needle. I recommend titanium coated needles to help sew difficult and dry materials. If you are having trouble pulling the knots up from the bottom and are using the correct needle size, increase the top tension, and/or decrease the bobbin tension. If that doesn't do it, buy a magnetic lube jar and a quart of liquid silicon and run your top thread through it. The jar I bought comes with a plastic regulator screw that can be set to just get the thread moist as it feeds through the base. It makes it easier to pull up the knots and can breathe some life back into old, dry thread. If adjusting the top or bottom tension doesn't allow the knots to come up inside the leather, pull off the right sliding cover and watch the top thread as it goes around the shuttle. Does it hang up on the way in or out? Is there a click as the thread lets goes of the bobbin race and comes up? If so, there are further adjustments needed.

I joined then left that FB forum. Half the posts are for old iron domestic sewing machines they think are industrial.

No. It was Ken B whose post I hid, then the follow-up comment from FellowLeathersmith.

Personal attacks against either members or dealers is not permitted here. Please act appropriately.

When I have this problem I draw out several inches of top thread, rotate the hand wheel until the take-up lever is at its highest position, lower the foot while trapping the thread, then sew. Doing this eliminates the pull on the top and doesn't jam the bobbin case. Just make sure the loose top thread is captured by the presser foot or there will be a thread jam. Note: This may or may not work on your machine.

All I can tell you is that whatever motor you buy, it should be a digital motor (with LED readout and push buttons), not an analog servo (with a speed limiting knob or switch). Someone else will know more about this than I know.

I was contacted offline by a nice lady in Lake Forest, Illinois, up near the Wisconsin border, who is part of a group of people doing needle point designs. She is seeking somebody who can sew their cloth onto 3 piece bridle leather belts. The belts would have separate buckle and billet straps that the cloth goes under. The cloth will be rolled under on the edges. I think this can be done on pretty much any walking foot machine capable of feeding 1/4 inch of material, using #138 bonded nylon thread. If you live up that way and are interested in the project, get a hold of me and I will give you her contact info. I could do it but am too busy right now, working two jobs. Please note that because of how this section of the forum is setup, your replies will have to wait for approval from me or another moderator before they appear. This can take a while to happen.

That is a dual feed upholstery leather, cloth and vinyl sewing machine. The outside foot works in sync with the feed dog to claw the work back. There are probably aggressive teeth on the bottom of the feet to help it feed. They will mark the top grain of veg-tan leather and leave deep tracks.

No, you have it wrong. The marks on the bottom aren't just from the feed dog hole. While the size of the hole is important for letting the needle pass through it without binding, the hole itself does not cause the bottom to pucker. It is the spring pressure on the inside foot that surrounds the needle that pushes the leather into the dog's needle hole. If your machine is equipped with a separate adjuster over the inside foot, backing off the pressure on that part will reduce the puckering on the bottom. Look at the left side of the head of the machine. Is there a screw adjustment inline with the inside foot? It would be between the needle bar and presser foot bar. On machines having that adjuster, it could be a thumbscrew, or a simple screwdriver adjustment that is close to the top of the head until screwed down. Consult your owner's manual, or open the faceplate and see if there is a coil spring around the inside vibrating foot bar. If there is an adjustment screw it will be directly over the bar and spring. This is a separate adjuster than the main presser foot pressure adjuster. If your machine only has one pressure adjuster, you will have to try to optimize it so it just holds down the leather as the needle ascends while exerting the least required pressure on the inside foot. Otherwise, live with the bottom appearance, or try using a different needle point shape. As a rule, the larger the needle, the more pronounced the bottom pucker around the hole where it presses into the feed dog hole or slot. This is how it is with walking foot machines that have a middle/inside foot.

That is how leather looks on the bottom with most walking foot machines. The inside foot is small and surrounds the needle. That's what causes the bottom to pucker around the needle holes. If your machine has a separate adjuster screw over the inside foot, back it out as far as it will go and just use the outside foot to hold down the work. Getting the foot pressure right can be a balancing act. Too little pressure allows the leather to lift up with the ascending needle. This causes skipped stitches and rats the thread. Too much pressure leaves marks on top and puckers on the bottom.

The top thread is ratty and will come apart as you sew. I wonder if it has a right twist instead of the recommended left twist?

This is a fairly modest range of thicknesses. There are lots of sewing machines that can handle up to 1/4 inch without having linkages hitting together. One that comes to mind, from my own experience, is the Consew 206RB-5. It can sew your entire thickness range and a little more; up to about 3/8 inch seams. I use an 18 inch version of this machine and I love it.

It is a portable dual feed walking foot machine, much like the Sailrite. It is limited to #92 in the bobbin and #138 on top and 1/4 inch maximum thickness.

No. The machine mentioned is a Cowboy CB3200, detailed here. You would have to call the dealer for a price for the head only, or on a tiny table, with a Barney handle on the flywheel.

A roller foot will do just fine for patches. Just crank down the foot pressure and let er roll!

How sad this makes me feel. Gregg was a contributor here over the years. He will be missed.

I use a walking foot post machine to sew patches onto hats and other areas on vests and jackets where I can sew through the lining, or move it out of the way. I use my long arm Adler patcher to sew patches onto sleeves and legs and over pockets.

What is the minimum and maximum thickness you might have to sew? Will the layers be secured with glue, staples or nails? The answers to these questions will tell us the range of thread sizes the machine needs to handle. This will also reveal the needle sizes.