Wizcrafts

Yes, if it is in good condition and the pressure on the clamp is able to hold down the webbing. I'd use a #18 or #19 round point titanium coated needle. Note, that the Singer 269w8 is a bartacker, not an X tacker. It only sews a 42 stitch bar pattern, up to 5/8" long, and from 1/16" to 5/32" width. The maximum clearance under the foot/clamp is listed as 5/8 inch, but is probably best limited to actually tacking 3/8 inch. It make the most wonderful CLANG at the end of each cycle. Lifting the foot should cut the thread for you and leave about a 1 inch thread stub. The needle system is System 1628/16x5. If you haven't purchased it already, I would strongly recommend testing the machine, or have the seller test sew on it, before buying it. A video would be good.

They may be able to sell you a small pulley and shorter v-belt. You will probably have to mic the diameter of the output shaft. Call them at: 866-362-7397, or use the website's contact form.

Please start a new topic about your machine and its issues.

This motor looks good according to the specs. It also has a speed dial. However, it appears that it ships with a 75mm pulley. That is too fast for a leather sewing machine. The motors I get from Toledo Industrial have 50mm pulleys that give more low speed torque.

There are basically two types of servo motor. One has brushes, like a regular clutch motor has. The other is an electronic brushless motor. The motors with brushes usually have a simple rotary switch or potentiometer to limit the top speed. The brushless types usual;ly have push buttons with multiple functions and are complicated to setup. The dial type motors usually start at zero, with less torque, then gradually speed up with foot motion. The pushbutton controlled motors usually start at 200 or 300 rpm, with good torque, then increase to the preset maximum. I have had both types and will probably never ever use a brushless pushbutton motor again. I have added 3:1 speed reducers/torque multipliers to the servo motors where I need lots of torque at very slow startup speeds. I have four of the Family Sew FS-550s motors mentioned by JJN. There are box style and free standing reducers listed on the same page.

Yes I ran #69 standard bonded thread top and bottom in mine. The thread was made in Canada. There was no need for silicon. Totally depends on how tight the mechanism is and how much wear is in the bearings and crank shafts.

I think Artisan is still in business and can probably help you if nobody else can, or if parts are missing/broken.

It will have to be an industrial sewing machine store to get those needles. You won't find them where they sell domestic zig zag and embroidery sewing machines.

The gear that drives the shuttle carrier must be really loose, or maybe even missing. It shouldn't move more than about 1/16". It's also possible that the teeth on the gears are worn out. Finally, there is an eccentric screw under the main body that connects to the rack gears under the arm and it could be backed out too far, or shot. There is a small screwdriver hole on the rear of left end of the arm, where you can use a 1/16" blade screwdriver to try to tighten the set screw on the driving pinion gear. You will need to rotate the hand wheel until the screw is lined up with the hole in the arm. You can use 1.75" long System 29x3 and 29x4, or 135x16 and 135x17 needles in it. Household needles are much too short.

Personally, I have returned sewing machines that were damaged in shipping because they weren't properly secured for shipping. The flywheel is probably on an angle because the shaft got impacted and bent. Have fun straightening it out. Use a rubber or rawhide mallet.

No, we are two distinct and separate people. "CowboyBob" is a sewing machine dealer. His toll free phone number is 866-362-7397. I am but a humble and lovable UnderDog.

Unless you made a mistake in the model number, the 15-91 is not a leather sewing machine, nor even an industrial machine. It is a domestic model for home use on cloth and outside the scope of this particular forum. That said, the original foot pedal speed control is via a moving metal slug inside coils that are embedded in bakelite. The slug can be adjusted in and out for better foot control. These parts wear out over the years and become unreliable and hard to feather to slow speeds. You can probably replace the entire cord and pedal with a more modern electronic foot pedal made to plug into the Singer 15-91 AC socket. These are available from many sewing machine dealers, especially those selling on eBay. A Michigan seller, 231Terry comes to mind and I've bought replacement parts for domestic sewing machines from him. Here is his listing for a modern speed control that fist a 15-91. You should be cautious aboiut running the machine if there is any smell of something burning in the motor. Those pod motors can catch fire if the windings lose their insulation, or the machine is run too long without the proper motor grease (also sold on eBay).

Please be aware that the 211g140/141 (w/rev) are needle feed flat foot machines, while the 111w153 and 155 are compound feed walking foot machines.

I found a video demonstrating a Singer 112g140, which is one sub number off.

Did you look here? https://www.supsew.com/wpfb-file/juki-dln-5410-6-pdf-2/

Replace the cracked thread guide. They are cheap. Just don't lose the tiny top screw that holds it onto the needle bar.

@Ivan1939 If you plan on advertising this machine for sale, please post the ad in our Marketplace section, under the Sewing equipment > Used category. This forum is for discussing and troubleshooting leather sewing machines.

Right! Try this chart instead: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html I usually choose the largest recommended needle when I sew medium to hard temper leather. It needs wider diameter holes to overcome the friction.

That is the wrong size needle for #138 thread. You should use at least a #22, if not a #23 leather point needle.

How thick are the collars at the widest point? This will determine the type of machine needed to sew them.

Use a #18 needle with #69 thread in leather or webbing. Number 16 is for cloth and vinyl.

From the model number I suspect that it is a clone of an Adler 69 series machine. Call Bob Kovar (primary Cowboy dealer in the USA) to get more info on that machine. His toll free number is: 866-362-7397. Let us know what you learn.

I own a second hand Techsew 2700 (deprecated). It is identical to the Cowboy CB227R. These compound feed walking foot machines use a standard G size Singer bobbin which is often referred to as 1x capacity. They are best limited to a maximum thread size of #138 (22 pounds test), which works best with a #22 or #23 needle (depending on the density of the material). The maximum thickness they can sew is 3/8 inch if properly adjusted. My machine seems happier running #69 or #92 thread. The smallest thread I have run on it is #33 bonded nylon. The reverse function is part of the spring loaded stitch length lever. You have to pull and hold the lever down to back stitch. The holes will line up as long as you hold the lever all the way to its stop. When you let go the lever springs up into forward sewing mode. The cylinder arm is about 2.5" diameter, or so, (I'm not in the shop as I type this) and easily gets inside bags, cuffs and sleeves. The bobbins drop in from the top on the right side of the needle, under a sliding cover plate. My machine came with an optional table top attachment. The Cowboy has a similar table attachment and also can also have a drop down edge guide installed at an additional cost. But, I found a work around. There are spring loaded edge guide feet for sale with spacings from 1/8 to 5/16 inch from the guide to the needle. Problem solved! One final note is to make sure you get a mechanical dial controlled servo motor with the machine. Mine originally shipped with a push button controlled servo that started with a jolt at about 200 RPM. I replaced it with a Family Sew servo that starts at zero and increases smoothly to whatever maximum speed I set on the rotary dial. The motor is foot controlled. There is also a foot lifter for the feet that gives more lift than the hand lifter on the back of the head. IHTH

I suspect that the machine models you listed a 335, not 355.

There is a big adjuster cap screw on top that controls the foot pressure. It can be backed out until the marks are minimized.