Wizcrafts

Generally speaking, thread knots on the bottom means excessive bobbin tension, inadequate top tension, a needle that is too small, or the top thread is not fully seated in the top tension disks, or the disks are not fully closing as you sew. Pick one and run with it.

I second this. I also have a Techsew, a 2700, that came with a table attachment. And, my Cowboy CB4500 came with a table attachment. I have flatbed machines that are better suited to sewing flat items and never use the table attachments. But, I am in the sewing business where time is money and customers often watch and wait while I sew their stuff. If one has plenty of time and is not in a hurry, and doesn't have customers watching and waiting, a table attachment would be a convenience as opposed to buying two machines.

If you look at walking foot machines, be aware that the triple (compound) feed machines have an oblong hole or slot in the center of the feed dog. This allows for the moving needle to flex under load without hitting metal. The larger the hole, the more likely soft material will get pushed into it. Even if the hole in the feeder isn't a problem, the large rectangular cutout in the throat plate can trap soft material. To avoid these issues, look at dual feed walking foot machines that have top and bottom feed with a static position needle. The bottom feed is via dual row feed dogs and the top is via teeth on the presser foot. These machines usually have optional throat plates with larger or smaller needle holes. If you only plan to sew with thread up to #92, the largest needle will be a #19 or #20. The hole in the needle plate can be about 1.5 to 1.75 mm diameter and still clear a threaded #20 needle. In contrast, the hole in a heavy duty triple feed machine could be as much as 2.5mm wide and 4mm long. Seeing as how you aren't sewing leather, the teeth on the feet won't be a negative option. There are plenty of dual feed walking foot machines to be found. The alternating feet will walk up and down over different levels at overlapping seams.

You might get better results if you can use the flat slotted plate, or even the standard feed dog and flat plate. If the above is not an option, you may need to tweak the timing of the hook. Or, try increasing the throw of the check spring by moving the bottom stop bracket so the spring goes farther down before bottoming out.

Bingo!

None. Each needle "system" is an agreed upon combination of numbers and letters that needle manufacturers stick to when they make needles for various sewing machines. So, a System 135x anything needle might be several different lengths. 135x5, 135x7, 135x9, 135x16 are all different needle geometries. The walking foot machines you are looking at use system 135x16 (leather point), 135x17 (round cloth point), or if specially modified, system 190 (Pfaff) needles. System 135x16 are about 1.75" long. System 190 are about 3/16" longer. The Juki LU-1508NH is modified to allow for the longer needle to cycle up and down without hitting the feet at the maximum rated height, while still being in time with the hook. This needle would hit the raised feet in a different machine that is not expecting the longer needles. This is never a good thing. If one chooses to use a needle that is not meant for a specific machine, assuming the shank fits into the needle clamping black, the hook must be retimed to intersect above the needle's eye as it moves up from BDC. People do this on old antique sewing machines that were meant to use needle systems that are no longer produced. They often move the needle bar down so they can use a common needle system, line 135x16 or 135x17. This then requires checking and possibly adjusting the timing of the hook. While there is little information to be gleaned from the needle system designation, the "size" is a known commodity. As was mentioned by a previous respondent, the metric sizes actually correspond to measured diameters. Thus, a number 18 needle which has the second size of 110 on the label has a diameter of 1.10mm. Unfortunately, the old Singer numbering system only corresponds to the relative diameters. Those numbers are standardized, so all #18 needles *should* be equal in diameter to any other manufacturer's #18 needle. Obviously, the metric sizes will match across manufactures as well. You can get more fetching up about the relationship between thread and needles by reading the needle and thread chart on this page.

That looks like a cuff sewing machine for jacket and pants cuffs. I have a Singer left handed cuff sewing machine.

For that I use size 19 or 20 needles in system 135x16 diamond or tri point. I prefer to buy titanium coated needle that don't overheat or gum up as badly sewing through double-sided tape or glue. Don't use round point needles in hard leather. They tend to grab inside on the way down and up. You can hear the squeaking as they heat up. Always use some configuration of a leather point when sewing leather, especially veg-tan and bridle leather.

My first industrial sewing machine was a Singer 96k40. It is a tailoring machine. I equipped it with a 1 inch roller foot which helped feed leather. But, it kept breaking needles when I tried sewing a leather vest with fringe on the back. Other times, it shredded the top thread. The pressure spring wasn't strong enough to hold down 10 ounces of heavy garment leather. I then bought an old Singer walking foot machine from yesteryear and it did the job. It had a spring loaded presser foot and an oscillating hook. I don't recall the model as it was decades ago.

Olive Drab bonded #92 in 4 ounce spools Olive drab bonded poly in 1 pound spools

Methinks that the guest leather worker isn't aware that "guests" cannot use our private messages or email link systems. He or she will have to become a member to gain access to those modes of contacting other members. Otherwise, they can post their phone number or email address in plain text and hope that the harvester bots don't scrape them.

The machine was sold by COOPER, not COPPER. You can read this on the logo on the machine in the first photo.

Back to the OP's question about its usability for wallets; it can sew wallet interiors with #69 bonded nylon thread using a #18 leather point needle. It will do better on slick top grain leather that doesn't get dragged by the steel presser foot. I would say it can sew about 6 ounces of small leather pieces; 8 ounces soft temper max.

This is not a 66. It has an end mounted horizontal axis bobbin. The model 66 have vertical drop in bobbins. It could be a 15 class or a model 201. The brass tag should have the model number. If that is missing, the serial number can be looked up on Ismacs and it will reveal the model and date of manufacture.

This is a clone of a Singer 29k72 shoe and boot patcher. The brand is unknown to me. Buyer beware. You may have to set it up and correct manufacturing defects yourself. The seller seems to know very little about the machine and English doesn't appear to be his native language. The price is for the head only. There is no motor or table. The seller doesn't have bobbins for it and suggests that buyers look on the Internet for parts.

I once had an Adler 204-374. It looked exactly like this machine, but had triple feed. It had many parts in common with its cylinder arm brother, the Adler 205-374. It weighed 175 pounds and the table was warped, as was my trailer floor. The difference between the -370 and -374 is the feed dog. The -370 has teeth while the -374 is smooth, like the Cowboy and Cobra 441 class feed dogs.

Yes, clear sewing machine oil will do. Otherwise, a light weight 3 in 1 type oil.

Kgg's photo should put this argument to rest. The 1541 series have horizontal axis rotary hooks on the left end with push in bobbins; not vertical hooks with drop in bobbins. Also, some newer models have dual top tension assemblies to handle heavier thread.

Let's see a picture of your 1541. I say it has a horizontal, end accessed hook; not a drop in left side hook like the 1508 and old 563.

the 201 refers to a much sought after Singer 201 class domestic sewing machine. It has drop feed, a flat foot, side loading horizontal axis bobbin and a pod motor. It has a longer body than the 15 class machines that came first and fetches a higher price. Th 201 was produced from 1935 through 1961. Here is the Ismacs page about the Singer 201.

You need to get a picture of the front of the machine to ID it. Also, ask for a picture showing the foot/feet from the outside left. This will reveal if it is a walking foot of any type and whether it is needle feed, dual top/bottom feed, or triple/compound feed.

Could you please post a close-up photo of the altered part that allows for longer reverse stitches?

They are fascinating machines. We had a recent topic about sewing denim jeans and one of the members shared a video on YouTube showing the operator combining layers while feeding off the arm. Maybe that's the video you watched.

You need to wrap the thread counter-clockwise around something to counteract the twist of the wound spool. It could be a post that has holes on the top and bottom, or the guide before the pre-tensioner.

Next thing ya know, you guys and gals will start talking about Feed Off The Arm machines for designer jeans!